Budapest sits on a fault line. As a result, it is blessed with an abundance of natural hot springs, over 100 of them! That is why Budapest is known as the “City of Spas”. Throughout the city, residents and tourists alike are soaking in these healthful pools. There are so many to choose from but on our Interrail adventure, we wanted to see one of the most iconic. Join us for a trip to the Gellert Thermal Baths and Swimming Pool.
This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.
Gellert Thermal Baths and Swimming Pool
There has been a spring here, emerging from Gellert Hill for centuries. It was first documented way back in the 1200s. The healing properties were recognised straight away and analysis of the water shows that it contains plenty of lovely minerals such as:
Calcium
Magnesium
Hydrocarbonate
Alkalis
Chloride
Sulfate
Fluoride
Honestly, I am pretty sure that calcium & magnesium are what make water hard and not great for your skin and hair but who cares when it is hot and London tap water is the worst anyway so my follicles are used to it.
Arriving at Gellert Bath
We hopped on a tram down from the door of the castle hill. It took around ten minutes and we spotted the entrance from the tram. The baths are attached to the Gellert Hotel (closed for refurbishment during our visit) but it has its own entrance. It is magnificent, so very grand! The Gellert Baths was opened in 1918 and it s quintessential Hungarian Art Nouveau. Passing through the wooden revolving doors, we emerged into a dark lobby with mosaics on the floor. Wooden counters and A few steps beyond the ticket counters was a huge dome with more gorgeous mosaics. We had to tear ourselves away to enter the changing area. The entrance, main pool and wooden changing rooms were all damaged in World War II but an extensive refurbishment in 2008 brought them back to their best.
Quite the entranceWristbands serve as locker keysThe lobby
Changing Rooms
We were lucky enough to be treated to the finest of the changing rooms. There are several levels of changing area from simple plastic doors and lockers all the way up to these stunning art nouveau halls. There are two, both with barrelled ceilings and a balcony around the edge We had a large curtained changing room each with a bed, wardrobe and mirror in. The attendant came to lock our belongings away, ready for our soggy return. This all felt so delightfully vintage.
The Main Swimming Pool
We head straight into the gorgeous main pool. The columns surrounding the pool are all unique, no two alike. You could pop a floor in and the space would double up beautifully as a ballroom. We marvelled at the pool but as we didn’t have swimming caps, we couldn’t go in. Above the water, the iconic roof is retractable so in summer, it is open to the sky. This lap pool is designed for exercise at a lukewarm 27°C and with a length long enough to get a decent sweat on. This area can be very busy at times, particularly popular amongst the older generation. They have aqua aerobics in here sometimes but it was al very quiet during our Sunday morning visit.
Let’s Go Outside
We scurried through the main pool to see the outside space. The weather was unusually cool for May (our whole Interrail trip was plagued by bad weather). However, the sun was properly out and almost making itself known through the spring morning air.
We made a beeline straight for the steam rising in the distance and found where the majority of people were. The heated outdoor pool was very busy so I didn’t really take any photos but it was a plain rectangle pool so you’re not missing much. After a short time in here, we thought it best to have a look around the rest of the outdoor area, and then head inside where it was still nice and empty. Plus, for the first time in a couple of weeks, the sun was out and shining and we were not wearing any suntan cream.
The main pool outside had a really low water level. It was a good, long ladder to get down to it. Mr Fluskey thought he might hop in for a couple of laps but as soon as his foot hit the unheated surface he shot back up the ladder like a ferret. Turns out, the water level is so far below the edge because in summer it is a wave pool that goes every hour. Around the pool was a curious blend of foliage covered follies and statues. This was contrasted with the white tiled showers which screamed early 1910s seaside. It was a slice of Art Deco surrounded with neo-classical flourishes. It was a very pleasing juxtaposition.
We made our way through the maze of changing rooms, up and down tiled stairs, giggling to ourselves. It was early in the day so the whole place was still quite empty, and we sort of felt like naughty school kids running around where we shouldn’t be. Honestly, we were lost for a good five minutes.
The Thermal Baths
The prettiest part of the baths (in my humble opinion) is the Thermal Bath area (the one awash with blue paint). One of them is 36-40°C, the other is 35-38°C.
Our feet were a bit chilly from running around in the changing rooms, trying to find our way back to the thermal pools. When we found them, we made a fatal mistake wading in as quickly as possible. I descended into the first pool I reached without paying any attention to the temperature. It was gloriously warm and just right to soak in for 30 minutes. Sadly, as our bodies had adjusted to the temperature popping into the pool opposite was not as nice. Where we had accidentally picked the warmer of the two pools, the other felt like a tepid bath that needed a shot of hot water from the tap.
Beyond the thermal pools was the spa area. There was a steam room, sauna, relaxation room (which was a bit cold for my liking) and the cold plunge pool which was definitely to cold for my liking. I thought that we should be brave and dunk in but it was quite busy and I didn’t want to disturb the rest of the patrons with my squealing.
The Sitting Pool
At the end of the main pool was a smaller semicircular sitting pool. Here, swimming caps are not required so we plopped in for one last moment of relaxation, watching people under the small fountains and listening in on Hungarian gossip that we couldn’t understand. Time marched on quickly and we had to get going. We wanted to see the Budapest Statue Park before leaving on the train that afternoon.
There Were More Baths!?
So, I thought I’d seen the thermal baths. Mr Fluskey insisted that there was another section of thermal baths but I was adamant. Well, I had to eat my words when we checked the map of the complex and there were, in fact, more pools! Considering the baths used to be divided by gender (right up until 2013), it makes perfect sense. I’m not sure why my logic entirely failed me. We went around but didn’t take any pictures. They were a lot less ornate and they were packed with people so I didn’t feel comfortable taking photos there. Imagine a similar set-up to the blue pools but with a green barrel roof.
Final Thoughts on the Gellert Thermal Baths and Swimming Pool
What an absolute treat to have so many of these wonderful hot spring spas on your doorstep. We have had the pleasure of visiting both the Gellert Baths and the Szechenyi Bath and they both have such distinct personalities. The less ornate but more local vibe of Gellert really appealed to us. It seems like we would hop over to Buda for a Sunday soak often if we lived in Budapest. Even if you are just visiting, Gellert Thermal Baths and Swimming Pool is an excellent choice to relax those backpacker shoulders or work-weary backs.
Budapest may not be your first thought when considering Europe’s culinary capitals but join a food tour and be prepared for a surprise. From plump paprika-laden sausages to perky pickles, there is a whole host of Central European treats that await you. Taste Hungary runs a huge variety of courses and tours that cover food and wine from across the region and we were thrilled to join them on a 4 hour Culinary and Wine Walk tour that took us from the Great Market Hall, through the Old Town and into a world of food we had never tried before. Read on for our full Taste Hungary review.
This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.
Budapest Great Market Hall
Budapest’s Great Market Hall (otherwise known as the Central Market Hall) opened in 1897 and it is very reminiscent of a Victorian train station. Its wide brick frontage and pointed trainshed-style roof, all constructed in girders could easily be the city’s main station. Instead, it is a celebration of all things food. You will find it on the Pest side of the river, right next to the Liberty Bridge.
A Cheesy Treat -Turo Rudi
We met our guide, Angela, and she started the tour in excellent fashion with a lovely little sweet treat. The tour starts early in the morning and has 8 food stops. The advice is to arrive hungry so we had skipped breakfast. The sweet cheese bar was the perfect little starter, preparing our tummies for the goodies to come. They are a popular snack in Hungary and have been since the 1960s. We don’t have much that is similar in the UK and the sweet, refreshing curd wrapped in chocolate was a delight.
Another Cheesy Treat – Lángos
Often described as Hungarian pizza, garlicky, cheesy Lángos may actually be a tiny bit better. Well, I know which I’d rather have after a night out. The base is a fried flat bread and the topping consists of lashings of sour cream and a mountain of cheese. The flatbread at the bottom can be plain or contain potato or cream and it can also be topped with cabbage, ham or sausages. I am not sure why you would pick cabbage over cheese and cream but I guess that is a personal preference. We had a couple of pies to share between the group and after everyone had scoffed a slice or two each, there was one left. I had already had two slices so didn’t feel like it was mine to take. Angela insisted we finish the breads and after a minute of coaxing, I did the honourable thing and enjoyed my third slice. This stuff is so delicious, hot, cheesy, addictive. I would have happily had the whole thing.
Confession time: We arrived at the Taste Hungary tour with quite a hangover. We had been out doing the very cultural thing of drinking at a ruin bar. I was so hungry and am hanging, I crave things that are super savoury things. That is why the Lángos went down so very well, and why our next stop was perfection.
Curative Cured Meat
Deli meat, curd meats, continental meats…whatever you call them, I love sliced, salty salamis, chorizo and other sausages. We got to try four different kinds on a little platter. They were all delicious but the bright red Kolbász, packed full of paprika was my favourite. It was almost smoky with the spice, thickly cut and perfectly chewy.
Potent Paprika
Next door was a whole stall dedicated to that tasty paprika. Hungary is one of the world’s biggest paprika producers and it is probably its most famous food export. You can pick it up in many forms, powder or paste, sweet or spicy. In fact, according to Wikipedia, there are 8 different kinds. It is made of red peppers (bell peppers) and is used in cuisines across the globe.
Lovely Lavender
The next stall along was an array of lavender products. My mum went through the biggest lavender phase. We had strings of lavender bunches strung across every room of the house Lavender tea, lavender ice cream etc etc etc. I couldn’t smell the stuff for a long time but happily, it is coming back around. We visited a lavender farm a couple of years ago and I did enjoy the field and the lavender cider. I was a little hesitant to try the lavender honey we were offered (oh the childhood flashbacks) but it was delicious! It was tempting to buy a few more products to try and test my tastebuds but I changed my mind, scared that it would all taste like potpourri…I still have some years to go I think.
Perfect Pickles
The art of pickling is a magical thing. The pickling spices, the balance of salt and sugar, and knowing which ingredients match each concoction is such a skill. We head down to the lower ground floor, to the dark underbelly of the market hall to discover a stall that was stacked with pickled goodness. At first glance, it looks nice and colourful and then, looking closer you see the adorable pictures the proprietor has created in the jars of veggies. So cute! Angela ordered a selection and then we all sat down for a little pickle picnic. The sauerkraut was pretty good but the highlight for me was the baby watermelon. It was sweet, sharp and so unusual.
A Walk Through the Old Town
Emerging into the sunlight, we crossed the road and wandered into the old town. We followed along, listening to snippets of information and meeting our fellow tourists. It was nice to get some history of the area and the wider city. Budapest, in my opinion, is missing a good city history museum, so to have a linear account explained to us was so helpful. We passed old city walls, memorials to city floods and beautiful buildings. At every point, Angela gave us a slice of social history and we lapped it up.
A Shot of Unicum
No tittering, please!
Pronounced oo-nee-coom, this herbal liqueur is one of those medicinal concoctions that are necked by some and sipped by others in Hungary. Of course, the name is rather funny, especially to visiting university students so it graces many a booze shelf around the world too. As with many of these old herbal liqueurs, it started life as a medicine and comprises over 40 different herbs We definitely indulged in some of thick thick, black booze on our first trip to Budapest so I was very happy to try the plum variety this time around. I can report…it is still quite extreme. To be fair to Unicum, my hangover probably made it worse than it was. It probably is a very good hair-of-the-dog being so full of herbs! We learned all about the history of the drink and a little more about Angela as we slowly sipped at the drinks. It was nice to take a rest and have a chat.
The cafe we visited to try the Unicum was a very cool, slightly hipster place with some real 1970s communist vibes. Take a minute to poke around if you get the chance.
Right, no more nibbles and hopefully no more Unicum, it is time for a big meal.
A Traditional Hungarian Lunch
The group walked around the corner, chatting more freely after the shot of liquor and we claimed our table outside in the sunshine for this next stop. Locals popped in and out with reassuring frequency from the butcher’s shop style restaurant. Inside there was a counter full of pickles, salads, creamy side dishes of all types…I didn’t know what any of it was but I was really excited to see what we were due to try.
Super Soup
The meal started with a little bowl of goulash each. Goulash is one of those soups that has seeped into my consciousness without actually having any idea what it is. Turns out, it is a thin, paprika-infused broth with beef and veggies inside. It was both relatively light and also very comforting. I can imagine a big bowl of this on a cold night would be a delightful dinner.
Meat Munchies
After our starters came the meat course. We split a couple of sausages and two huge duck legs. The sausages were fried and stuffed with different levels of…you guessed it…paprika. I think these were varieties of Kolbász. One had a lovely spicy kick and just begged to be paired with beans and tomatoes in a hearty stew or whacked in a big bun with some lemon mayo. The duck was crispy skinned with soft meat underneath. I was getting really full but it was still hard to stop eating the duck. It was only fear of judgment that stopped me from picking one of the legs up to gnaw upon. To the side, we had some sweet, pickled red cabbage (always a winner, especially with these meats) and a variety of potato salad and coleslaw-type dishes. It was a fab dinner and as I was licking my fingers, I realised we hadn’t been to 8 stops yet and I needed to find more room. Whoops.
Dessert Stomach Activated
Luckily, our next stop was a 10-15 minute walk away so I had a little time for digestion before we hit dessert. The light, airy, Geraldine cafe was tucked just behind the Hungarian National Museum and served a lovely array of cakes, pastries and other sweet treats. We were all allowed to choose a cake and drink. I opted for the espresso tonic, a bubbly cold coffee that kicked me in the pants! My cake was the strawberry version of their signature cake, only available in season. It was like a millefeuille and the light strawberry mousse was divine. Mr Fluskey opted for a multilayered raspberry and pistachio opera cake and he demolished the lot. I almost didn’t even get a taste! Both cakes we absolutely lovely and worth hunting the cafe out for.
Wine and Cheese O’Clock
With another short walk, we arrived at our last stop for the day. Turns out, we were at the Taste Hungary hub. The company runs lots of food and wine tasting experiences and many of them are based here. We walked up to our own little from and got a small cheese board each, along with three wines to sample.
Taste Hungary’s wine aficionado popped in to give us a quick talk about the different wine-growing regions of Hungary and to talk us through the wines we had to try. We started with a sparkling which obviously we thoroughly enjoyed. The still white was delicious. Turns out, I am all about Central European white wines. I loved Tokaj and sadly, forgot to photograph the bottle so I will never find it again! The red wine, however, was a lot more challenging. It was complex, tannic and too difficult for my hungover tummy. I traded it with someone who didn’t fancy the wine. As for the cheese, we were so full that we only managed tiny nibbles of each. (The middle medium soft cheese was the total winner and I forced the lot in).
Final Thoughts for This Taste Hungary Review
Our Culinary & Wine Walk with Taste Hungary was utterly eye-opening. I knew goulash was a thing, and I vaguely knew paprika was a thing but honestly, I couldn’t have told you much else about Hungarian cuisine. Turns out it is a varied and interesting range of foods. In writing this blog post, I have had the worst craving for a langos and would you believe, there is nowhere near me in London that delivers!? Being the original food tour in Budapest, Taste Hungary have really nailed this walking tour down to a fine art. Four hours flew by and we were so full, and so happy when we left. I can’t recommend it highly enough!
Budapest is one of Europe’s most enigmatic cities. It has glorious architecture, a fascinating history which has seen it rule an empire and been ruled by others, and a tourism scene which runs the whole gamut of class. If you are planning a visit to Budapest, for a long weekend then you should check out our 3 day Budapest itinerary with a 72 hour Budapest Card.
This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.
Budapest
Budapest, the Pearl of the Danube, is a city of two halves, literally. The wide Danube River splits the city into Buda on one bank and Pest on the other. Budapest has a history that can be traced back to ancient Celtic and Roman times. It witnessed the rise and fall of empires, from the Magyars establishing the Hungarian Kingdom in the 9th century to the Habsburg Empire in the 16th.
The Budapest Card
First things first, get hold of a Budapest Card. These are wonderful value and provide free or discounted entrance to attractions all over the city. As well as this, it gives you free public transport across Budapest for the length of the card. For 3 days in Budapest, you’ll want to pick up a 72 hour Budapest Card. There are a couple of types:
72 Hour Budapest Card – This includes free public transport, free walking tours, free entry to St Lukacs Baths, free entry to 20 museums, discounted entry to lots more museums and discounts at restaurants, in some shops and for some tours.
72 Hour Budapest Card Plus – This includes everything above plus a free door to door transfer to and from the airport, a free river cruise, a free return on the Buda funicular and free entrance to the gorgeous Matthias Church in Buda.
Around Tours
For a fun and informative way to see Budapest, check out Around’s Budapest Walking Tours. Their audio tours are flexible and packed with fascinating facts and great guidance that can be taken at your own pace, whenever it fits into your Budapest itinerary. We think the Buda Castle Tour is especially good as the area is huge and can feel a tad overwhelming. The Around Tour unlocks the secrets of its imposing walls. Plus, no live guides means you can stop for a bevvie, sit down for a rest or take in the view whenever you fancy, carrying on when you’re ready.
The Perfect 3 Day Budapest Itinerary
DAY ONE
Breakfast at the New York Cafe
Wake up early and make your way to Blaha Lujza tér metro station. Just steps from here is the most stunning cafe in Budapest, and quite possibly the whole of Europe; New York Cafe. This spot first opened in 1894 and from the stunning wrought iron entrance to the neo-renaissance balconies, frescoes and columns, it hasn’t changed. The place is visually stunning.
Now, the food here doesn’t come cheap. You are definitely paying for the ambience and surroundings. However, if you are savvy, getting a decent breakfast for €24 euros all in is possible. Splitting a three-tier Italian Breakfast gives you two or three pastries, a fruit salad, two thick slices of toast, butter and preserves, fresh pressed orange juice and coffee, tea or hot chocolate. Considering the orange juice is €10.50 and the cappuccino is €10, you’ll see what great value that offer is. (Cocktails are only €1-2 euros more than a coffee, so have at it).
After breakfast, you are welcome to wander around and see the balconies and white room up close. Don’t be shy, just take yourselves on a little walk. Later in the day, the queue is huge and these areas are cordoned off so breakfast is the best option.
Underground Railway Museum
Hop on the M2 line to Deák Ferenc tér and within the metro station, you will find the first of our fun little museum stops. As you are travelling on the metro, it is worth learning a little about it. Budapest has the second oldest underground railway network in Europe (after the London Underground). This small museum has lovely old carriages and discusses the history of the city and how it was intertwined with its metro transport.
From here, you are going to take the oldest line M1 Hősök tere. You will see what this line was like when it opened with beautifully renovated and preserved stations. They remind us of the NY subway but in miniature and wonderfully clean.
Marvel at Heroes Square
Heroes Square is a large open area, defined by the huge crescent of statues, the Millennium Monument. The 14 statues within the Millennuim Monument include Hungary’s rulers including King Stephen. Atop the large column is Angel Gabriel holding the crown of St. Stephen’s Crown, also known as the Crown of Hungary. At the bottom are the seven chieftains of the Magyars. These were the leaders of the seven tribes back in 896 AD. The square’s statues were constructed to commemorate 1000 years of Hungary (hence the Millennium moniker). Over its 120 year history, Heroes Square has been host to protests, celebrations and many, many tour groups.
Wonder at World Class Art at the Museums
On either side of Heroes Square, you will find two huge art museums. The Museum of Fine Arts is on the north west flank, with the Kunsthalle on the south east. With just 3 days in Budapest, we suggest just visiting one, and we believe the superior visit is the Museum of Fine Arts. Not only do they have beautiful pieces from across the globe, but the building itself is amazing. You will be asked to store bags in the lockers downstairs before heading into the museum so make sure your phone is charged up before you go, ensuring you don’t need to carry any extra bits in your hands. Don’t miss the Egyptian art between galleries full of wonderful old masters including Monet and Rodin.
Sample Some Spirits at the Palinka Museum
Palinka is the fire water that originated in the Carpathian Mountains. You will find it in Hungary, Romania, Slovakia and Czechia and in many different flavours. The thing they all share in common, however, is the throat-stripping strength of the liquor. (Can you tell I am a wimp?). There is a small museum dedicated to the drink in Budapest and you will get free entry with the Budapest Card. This includes a look around the two room exhibitions (guided or not) and a small glass of the clear drink. It’s a nice stop off on the way to the rest of your evening. The museum is downstairs at a bar so don’t get confused or put off, you are in the right place.
Spend a Night at the Opera
Budapest’s opera scene is top notch. The Hungarian State Opera House puts on world class opera and ballet almost every night of the year at a fraction of the cost you might be used to. If you are prepared to stand, you can get tickets for less than €5 which is unheard of in London, Paris or New York. You can even get a seat for £10 so let your culture vulture fly!
Alternatively, you can also take guided tours of the building in the daytime which are really interesting. This allows a glimpse of the sumptuous and scandalous smoking corridor and of course the gorgeous gold and red auditorium.
DAY TWO
Take a Dip in a Beautiful Bath
Budapest is built on a fault line and this has an abundance of natural hot water springs. Around these springs, beautiful public baths were created and now the city has some true beauties, the perfect place to ease your weary muscles and recuperate before another day of sightseeing.
As part of your Budapest Card, you are given free entry to the Lukács Thermal Bath and Swimming Pool. If you are focused on making the most of your card then head down there. However, we particularly love:
Széchenyi Thermal Bath – The gorgeous yellow baroque building of Széchenyi Thermal Bath is matched only by the opulent statues and neoclassical interiors. This bath was built in the early 1900s but feels like it comes from the 1700s. It’s a real delight.
Gellert Baths – Connected to the Gellert Hotel, the art nouveau Gellert Baths is a world away from Széchenyi despite being built in the same decade. It is a wonderful mix of early 20th century design (warm wood and white tiling) but still has some lovely classical flourishes. Little statues and fountains surprise visitors and in the main pool, every column is different.
Rudas Baths – The original Rudas baths have been here for almost 500 years but an expansion and refurbishment in 2014 has given it a huge selling point, a bath that looks out over the River Danube. if you don’t fancy a morning dip, check out its two other unique offerings. The baths are open from 22:00 – 04:00 for nighttime bathing and on Friday nights you can hire it exclusively for one hour at around £60 per person. (Perfect proposal time).
Funicular
Take your lovely relaxed body to the foot of Buda Hill, opposite Széchenyi Chain Bridge and grab a ticket for the cutest little funicular to the top of the hill. Sure you can walk but if you are saving money, it makes sense to catch it up rather than down. The funicular was opened in 1870 and still operates in the same way (although it has been rebuilt due to damage in WWII). It was actually the second funicular anywhere in Europe.
Buda Castle
Up the hill, you will find the large Buda Castle Quarter. It looks like a fine baroque town but there has been a fortress here since the 1200s. Most of what you can see dates from the mid-1700s.
Budapest History Museum / Castle Museum
The Budapest History Museum, also known as the Castle Museum, both houses a history museum about Budapest and is itself party to an intriguing history. The palace that it once was found itself stripped out and thoroughly communist-ified during their 40 year rule. Inside you can delve into the old foundations and chapels (all that remains of the original buildings) and trace the history of Hungary from ancient times to the modern day. The most interesting gallery is that dedicated to the story of Budapest which isn’t just told chronologically, but in a series of themed areas. The museum is included with the Budapest Card.
Fisherman’s Bastion & Matthias Church
If you have seen any social media featuring Budapest, you’ve seen Fisherman’s Bastion. This Neo-Romanesque fortification was built around the 1700s walls and has been lovingly preserved for over 100 years. Its fairytale towers and stone arches abound on Instagram (yes, I’m guilty of it too) but that is a far cry from the fishermen it is named under. It is said that it was guarded by fishermen that lived below it in Watertown. The panoramic views from here are magnificent, across the river Danube to the huge parliament and domes of the city. Here you will also find Matthias Church. As well as its gorgeous Gothic exterior, it has a rich interior full of carvings and artwork.
More Views from Magdalene Church Tower
Keep walking east for about ten minutes and you will come to the small but tall, Magdalene Church. (This is sometimes called Buda Tower). Climbing the tower is free with the Budapest Card and is the reason we recommend getting that funicular UP rather than down the hill. Climbing the 170s steps to the top gives some excellent views
Take the Funicular back down the hill and then catch tram 16, 178, 210 or 216 to Széchenyi István tér.
Sunset by The Danube
Take a Spin on the Ferris Wheel of Budapest
If you just can’t enough views, or just fancy a sit down with a twist, then hop on Budapest Óriáskereke in the middle of Elizabeth Square. A ticket is 3900 HUF but for 6600HUF you can bag priority boarding and a glass of sparkling wine. It is an eight minute ride, which is a good amount of time for a glass of bubbles!
Enjoy Beverages on a Boat at Pontoon Bar
There are a few boat bars n the Danube but Pontoon is the most famous. Here you will find big drinks (you will be served a double unless you specify otherwise), banging music, a cool crowd and a gorgeous view of the sun setting along the Danube.
DAY THREE
Discover Hungarian Delicacies on a Food Tour
If you are only in Budapest for three days then it is hard to try everything delicious the city has to offer. If you fancy giving it a good go then you will want to book onto a food tour. There are a few on offer but the best company in Budapest (and the first to offer food tours) has to be Taste Hungary. Their passionate guides are almost as obsessed with food as their founders. They offer plenty of tasting including whole wine flights but the Budapest Culinary & Wine Walk is the best overview and a lovely way to spend your third morning. Arrive hungry as you will easily get enough food for breakfast and lunch.
The group takes a wander through the Central Market with a few tasters en route. From here you are guided through some of the oldest streets in Budapest. Traditional liqueurs and lunch are provided but make sure you leave room for dessert as there are more stops after this. Some of the highlights are:
Langos – Hungarian pizza
BBQ lunch with lashings of goulash
Unicum
Cake…ah the cake
A Haunting History at The Holocaust Memorial Centre
This is not an easy visit but this dark period of time was so impactful on the city that it is an important one. There is a permanent exhibition that explains both the Nazi and homegrown fascist threat to the Jewish population in Hungary. It is very interactive so you can take a long time going really in-depth if you want. The institution is one of the only places in the world dedicated solely to Holocaust research so there are lots of first person accounts and it is the most affecting Holocaust exhibition we have seen.
Shoes on the Danube Bank
Hop on tram 23, 28 or 2 at Zsil Utca and enjoy the views along the river bank to Széchenyi István tér. Here, disembark for another little dose of dark history.
The Shoes on the Danube Bank is a simple but very poignant memorial. It marks the awful moment in WWII when thousands of Jews were shot along the banks of the Danube River. There are 60 pairs of shoes, symbolizing the shoes that the victims were forced to remove before being executed. The variety is probably the most harrowing aspect, with men’s shoes, women’s shoes and small children’s shoes represented.
Marvel at the Hungarian Parliament
Keep walking north and you will pass the huge and imposing Hungarian Parliament. This huge, exceedingly grand building smacks of empire, which is no surprise as it was one half of the Austro-Hungarian seat of power. It has a whopping 691 rooms inside its neo-gothic halls. It is possible to visit a few of these on a 45 minute visit, guided by an audioguide or a human one. You’ll catch a glimpse of the beautiful grand staircases and golden Dome Hall as well as the Chamber of Peers where the business of parliament still goes on.
Explore Margaret Island
Make your way to the halfway point of Margit Bridge and down to Margaret Island. This large park (2.5 km by 500m) is a fun place to relax or laugh yourselves silly on some sort of strange transport.
Rent Something Fun– Available for rent is a weird and wonderful variety of wheeled vehicles. Most of these, from regular bikes to quad cycles and covered tricycles are powered by pedalling but there are also electric golf buggies.
Enjoy the Japanese Garden – An unusual find in Budapest, this neat little garden was created in the 1970s and is a little slice of zen in the city.
Walk the Water Tower – Fancy climbing another tower for another view? Of course you do when it’s included with your Budapest Card! You’ll get super 360s views to both sides of the rver. This is only open in summer.
Take in a Show – Just next to the water tower is the seasonal outdoor theatre. There is a show here every night in summer most of which are musical performances.
Stop and Smell the Roses – There is a pretty rose garden with some beautifully fragrant blooms. It is fun running around and sticking your nose in the different varieties.
Take a Swim – On Margaret Island, you will find both another hot spring bath, Palatinus Baths and the Hajos Alfred Swimming Pool Complex. This has eight pools all dedicated to the sport of swimming, including diving pools, an Olympic size lap pool and somewhere for water polo too!
Grab a Drink – There are a few cool bars on Margaret Island but the coolest of all is Hippie Island. It’s relaxed seating, great music and bright colours scream summer.
Watch the Fountain – The music fountain may not be playing music all day but it still shoots water in the most hypnotic patterns. Catch it playing music once an hour for the proper show.
Take a Boat on the Danube
Sightseeing along the Danube is a really relaxing way to spend an hour or two. Budapest has an abundance of boat tours, some serve dinner, some provide traditional music and some get you a little bit tipsy. These bottomless sailings are a really fun sightseeing tour which is honestly, only loosely to do with the commentary that cuts into the music every so often. There were nibbles to buy but the most basic of these boat trips is generous with the bubbly! It is easy to
“>book through Viator.
Go Out Out at Budapest’s Ruin Bars
After a few drinks, you might want a few more and this is the perfect excuse to check out some of Budapest’s iconic ruin bars. In the early 2000s a group of friends decided to buy one of the abandoned warehouses in the Jewish district and see it reborn as a bar. Other people got in on the act and now Budapest’s ruin bars are the place to have a raucous night out. Some are still bare concrete, covered in graffiti, and others have been rather spruced up. Szimpla Kert is the most famous but can be a little overwhelming. Do a little research and see which suits you…or do a guided ruin bar crawl and find it along the way.
Bonus Time?
Two last spots that you could add to your 3 day Budapest itinerary if not everything suits you, you’ve whizzed through everything else or you have an extra morning…
Get Your Fill of Soviet Art at Memento Park
Budapest has a unique outdoor museum full of Soviet statues. Whereas many countries destroyed their communist art rather quickly after the block fell, Hungary decided to preserve theirs and set up Memento Park. It is a very cool collection of worker sculptures and important statesmen statues. on the other side of the driveway is a small museum all about Budapest’s position throughout communist rule. There is loads of information, all written on boards around a huge pair of Stalin’s boots….I’ll let them explain.
Mess About on the Children’s Railway
Now, this is one that we haven’t done yet and it is also out of town. Half an hour out of town, a rather unusual train is run. It is entirely controlled by children…apart from the actual driving. You will find ticket sellers, conductors and signallers. This is a fun hangover from the USSR(!?). The Soviets thought it was a great way to help teach youths that were interested in railway careers. This particular 7 mile line was built in 1948 and is still going strong. (I will be going next time we visit).
Final Thoughts for Your 3 Day Budapest Itinerary
Honestly, I think Budapest deserves a longer visit, but of course, I know that a long weekend or three days is as long as most of us have for city breaks. I will be back to see and do even more in this wonderful city. Catch an opera, take a train run by youths and spend a long day or two days lazing in the balmy waters of Budapest. In fact, I bet there is enough to create a second 3 day Budapest itinerary and doesn’t that sound like a fun challenge?
Are you a dark tourist? What is dark tourism? Here at Flying Fluskey we most certainly are dark tourists! That is why we are sharing (what we think are) the best dark tourism places around the world. But first:
Welcome intrepid European traveller! You join us halfway through our group trip to Budapest for New Year’s Eve. In this article you will learn all about some of the other wonderful things we did that are perfect for a mid-winter break to Budapest; the Széchenyi Baths, the Hungarian State Opera House and New Year’s Eve itself.
The Hungarian State Opera House, or Magyar Allami Operahaz as it’s known in Hungarian, is a wonderful building built in the neo-Renaissance style. Yes I had to look this up again, but all the information came flooding back, from our friend Luke’s dulcet tones as he read from his trusty guide book. The architecture has a decidedly musical theme, boasting sculptures of famous Hungarian composers.
As with many opera houses East of Vienna, tickets can be purchased for a fraction of the cost you may expect. Ticket prices here start at around 1900HUF/£4.50GBP (2022). Mr Fluskey and I were keen to see a show but unfortunately, all the tickets were sold out. So we returned the following day to take one of the great value tours around the building. They are around the same price as a cheap ticket so either way, you’ll have fun for less than a tenner.
Christmas outside the Hungarian State Opera House, Budapest.
We learnt lots about the Opera House’s history, its links to the Royal Family (when it was inevitably known as the Royal Opera House) and the intricacies of the building. Mosaics, brocade wall coverings and paintings line the walls and ceilings. There is an awful lot to look at. The auditorium itself is vast and spectacular. The Royal box sits directly in the centre of the viewing area, three stories tall and glistening in gold. There is an area of seating at the very front that resembles leather armchairs rather than theatre seating; the very height of viewing comfort. We were told that these seats would set us back roughly the same as a second circle ticket in a London West End theatre. This is perfect for a mid-winter break to Budapest as it was toasty warm!
The Szechenyi Baths
Stripping down to your swimwear may sound like a crazy thing to do during a mid-winter break to Budapest, but Budapestians are lucky enough to live in a city with its own thermal springs. Going to one of the opulent, but reasonably priced baths is an absolute must for locals and tourists alike. We were led to Széchenyi Baths, which sits in City Park, by Luke who was once again tour guiding us. (Below are pictures of the park on the way back through).
Millennium Monument in Heroes’ SquareCity Park Ice Rink
To get there, we took the Budapest Metro, an absolute delight. The trains were two carriages long and seemed like old trams. I loved the station jingle so much, it was my text tone on my mobile phone until I got a new one and couldn’t transfer it over. It still goes round my head occasionally. I believe they now have newer trains but I will always remember the joy of the one we got that day.
The neo-baroque entrance to Széchenyi Baths
The Széchenyi Baths is open to men and women, so we were all able to go together. It was definitely worth checking because this is not the case in all of the city’s many bathing houses. The neo-baroque building is magnificent and we were getting ready to put a big dent in our spending money. However, at €25/£20GBP (2022) for a whole day and a locker, it was a bargain when compared with other hot springs I’ve been to in Iceland and Bath for example.
We scampered out of the dressing room into minus temperatures that had my toes recoiling in on themselves and made for the first pool we could see. It was pretty cold, not the hot water I’d been expecting. We realised that there was a distinct lack of people in that one and so we leapt out and scurried down its length to the next pool. There were a couple of people doing laps but we dipped our toes in experimentally. Someone pointed out that the last pool, with fountains feeding into it, was packed and steaming deliciously. Hurriedly, we dashed towards it, fingers going numb and goose-pimples covering our shivering bodies.
Clambering in was sheer ecstasy. Warmth seeped slowly up through my body as I lavishly sunk myself into the water. I tried to keep my head out so I didn’t end up looking like Jack in his last moments attached to the door, with icicles framing my face. For many a happy hour we lazed, swam, fought against the whirlpool current that was amazingly strong and pool hopped.
It was far too brutal a concept to have to get out and try to dry off. The changing rooms were heated well, but it’s never nice having to leave something so indulgent. Pink and pruning we ran, en masse, back to the building to get changed.
The Museums
House of Terror
We like to indulge in some dark tourism when travelling.
In Budapest, we tried and failed (twice) to go to the wonderfully named House of Terror Museum. This was 2007 and nobody had a smart phone so we couldn’t check the holiday opening hours. It tells the story of the communists and fascists that have made their mark on Hungary. When I go back to Budapest, I’ll definitely be making a beeline for this fascinating sounding museum.
We looked around for somewhere to keep warm (if you are planning a mid-winter break to Budapest, it may be a good idea to make a note of cafes that will serve this purpose) and found a phone box. Inside we piled! I think we managed over half the group. (I’ve tried to count from the photos but haven’t managed it so far. See if you can.)
Holocaust Museum
Budapest’s Holocaust Memorial Centre was open, thankfully. This is still one of the best presented museums I have ever been to. It was dark, it was depressing, but incredibly engaging. Mr Fluskey and I took a good three hours to make our way through its galleries, the perfect mix of impersonal statistics with people’s stories had us enthralled. Completely emerged in this world, we stumbled into the cafe where the others, who had been a bit quicker than us, were sitting laughing and chatting. It took us ten minutes or so to join in. Truly heart wrenching but well worth the emotional investment.
I can shamefully admit that we drunk rather a lot on this holiday. It was so cold out that we all sat in our hostel room and played drinking games. We had made a trip to the off license and all purchased our poisons of choice. I had some cheap but excellent vodka, Dan and Kirsten had bought a vat of white wine for £3 (it lasted them the entire trip) and Mr Fluskey bought something called unicum (hilarious when you’re a student).
We started New Year’s Eve in the same way. It ended in a bit of a drunken blur. Venturing out onto the bitterly cold streets, we meandered through the crowds, sipping our pre-mixed drinks for internal warmth. A spirit of reckless abandonment reigned.
Firecrackers exploded at foot level, and eye level, and rockets weaved their way into the sky. The collective horror we experienced, through our drink addled fog, watching a small boy return to a lit firework is testament to those TV safety campaigns throughout our childhoods.
New Year’s Day
The next day was brutal. Luke had an idea to rent bikes and see a statue park slightly further out of the city. Needless to say, we didn’t go. A wander around the city and a train ride back to the airport was all any of us could manage to finish our mid-winter break to Budapest.
New Year’s Eve can be a traumatic experience. So much build up, so much hype, so much to go wrong and SO much to regret. To spread the strain, Mr Fluskey’s friends from school like to go away for a couple of days. In December 2007, I joined them on my first group trip with “the Nottingham lot” and so we all went to celebrate New Year’s Eve in Budapest.
Getting to Budapest
Everybody else drove down together from Nottingham to Luton Airport for the very early morning flight. I had been working and so I got a taxi from my student flat in North-East London, a £40 hole in the pocket. Other, smarter, more thrifty travellers had made their way to Luton the night before and their sleeping bag enveloped bodies littered the check in hall. I like to save money but this must be where I draw the line. I am willing to sacrifice a few more pennies to get a night in a bed, unless the cost is astronomical.
We had made a bit of a rookie error when booking the flights. Karl’s friends had all decided to fly on the same easyJet flight and had booked when the trip was arranged. Karl, being rather liable to ignore these things, didn’t go about booking until much later on. Now we all know that low cost airline fares tend to increase over time, so we ended up shelling out £160 each for the return trip. Two days later, Ryanair released tickets for their new route, London to Budapest and a return would have cost us just £10. I now do a fair amount of research when I plan my flights, booking on a different device to avoid cookies. Lesson learnt!
Our Arrival
At Budapest Airport, I realised I had left my phone on the plane, but after that first hiccup, all went smoothly. Just outside the airport doors is the train station which takes you directly into the centre of Budapest city. It’s only a short walk but it was incredibly cold, and we all know how much I love the cold. Honestly, had I been by myself, I may have just turned back and begged to get on a plane to Jamaica. Budapest, however, turned out to be worth it.
The Hostel
We stayed at Marco Polo hostel. The dorms were a very good size with a table in the centre that would seat eight very comfortably. That may have been because we commandeered the table from next door as well, I’m not sure.
At times, there were fourteen of us but we still all fit in the room with space for card games and many a drink. The bunk beds were comfortable and the temperature in the room was suitably cozy. The kitchen was stocked, if a little cramped, and bathrooms were kept clean. The nice mosaic floor was a little chilly so socks/slippers are recommended.
Budapest is carved in two by the Danube River. To the West is the old town of Buda, and to the East lies the flatter Pest. Our hostel was in Pest and so we had to cross the Széchenyi Chain Bridge to visit Buda Castle. Snow was falling, and in an effort to keep their feet dry, our friends were putting their be-socked feet into plastic sandwich bags before putting on their shoes. I, thinking I was some sort of genius, had my perfectly waterproof wellies. Those of you who know why this was a bad plan, will know the massive regret I felt for giggling at those sandwich bags. Those who haven’t, stay tuned.
The Hill
We decided that we only wanted to pay for the funicular that led up to Castle Hill one way, and planned to save it for our coming down treat.
Up the hill we scrambled, a rather ungainly lot; there was significantly more snow here than in the busy city streets. By the time we reached the top, my feet were really beginning to hurt as the cold from the snow froze the rubber boots. Weirdly, I knew it would be cold for New Year’s Eve in Budapest, but I just wasn’t mentally prepared.
We wandered the castles cobbled streets, stopping to make snow angels in the untouched powder.
The Cold
My mirth began to dwindle as the realisation dawned on me, that there was nothing inside, nowhere to thaw out. Half an hour later and my feet were screaming! My toes somewhere between freezing and on fire, I began to whimper. People stopped to take photos and admire the view. By this point, I couldn’t focus. In all our photos I have a slightly glazed look and my eyes are pleading through my smile.
When we finally decided to make our way back down the hill, the idea of the funicular was shunned in favour of walking, I was not happy but my boots really came in useful. The steep hillside was descended by way of a path that zig-zagged its way back to the riverside. The whole thing was like a toboggan run. Ugg boots and winklepickers alike, slipped and slid, potentially throwing their owners off the edge. Those of us with better grip hung onto our charges for dear life. We were like mothers teaching their little ones to ice skate for the first time. It took us longer to come down the hill than it had done to go up!
The Snowman Competition
In need of more silliness, we had a snowman making competition in front of a grand, riverside building. My team made a snow woman complete with big snow breasts. The other team attempted to create two separate legs for their snowman to stand upon. It turned out that this wasn’t a strong enough foundation. Unfortunately, the whole thing collapsed in the last seconds of the competition. Being the gracious winners we are, we cat called and did victory dances.
One of the opposing team, who found this more than a little irritating, picked up the trunk of their snowman and hurled it at our snow goddess. In slow motion, with no thought for his own dignity, Karl threw himself in the path of the flying torso. It exploded in magnificent fashion, into a thousand snow splinters. What a hero.
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