Tag: Italy

Explore our travels around Italy on the map or check out our articles.

  • Dominance and Beauty – Exploring the Venetian Fortresses of Northern Italy

    Dominance and Beauty – Exploring the Venetian Fortresses of Northern Italy

    The mighty city of Venice was a major trading power within Europe, dominating until the slave trade shifted power and wealth to the Atlantic. Their reaction was to step away from the waves and secure their foothold on the land that surrounded them. As such, they began to build and expand fortresses and sea fortifications across Northern Italy and down the Istrian and Dalmatian coasts. In 2017, UNESCO recognised six of these fortifications and their combined importance, adding them to its list under the name “Venetian Works of Defence between the 16th and 17th centuries: Stato da Terra – Western Stato da Mar”. Snappy name! Visiting these fortifications gives you an excellent excuse to explore places you might not think of travelling to and an inbuilt itinerary. Journey through Lombardy, Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia to discover the Venetian fortresses of Northern Italy.

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    Bergamo – A Take of Two Cities: Città Alta and Città Bassa

    Bergamo is one city made up of two distinct areas. The original city, Città Alta, sits atop a hill, protected by thick Venetian walls. Its narrow, winding streets follow medieval paths and are lined with charming, tourist-friendly shops and restaurants. Below, the newer Città Bassa offers a complete contrast, with wide boulevards, modern shopping districts, bustling cafés and the grand civic buildings of the city. Together, they create a destination that feels like two cities in one.

    Start at Funicolare Bergamo Alta

    The first thing you’ll need to do in Bergamo is head to the upper city. You could take a bus (pretty cheap) or walk (even cheaper), but the very best way is by funicular. The journey, which takes you up 85m, takes about 2 minutes at gradients as steep as 52%. It affords you marvellous views across the lower city and Po Valley, as well as giving you quite an appreciation for the thickness of the Venetian fortress walls. You can purchase an all-day ticket for €3.50, which means you can go up and down as many times as you like, although you may end up feeling like a slow-motion yo-yo.

    Head Up to Parco della Pace

    Start your walk up at the Parco della Pace, this excellent viewpoint not only gives you a wonderful look at the old fortifications but an amazing view out across the valley. Standing next to the WWII gun (a Semovente da 75/18 for those that are into ordnance), you can see the 12th century Monastero di Astino below, tucked into a swath of green. When the Venetians were building their huge defensive walls, they demolished plenty of buildings along the way, but the monastery was spared, leaving it sitting just beyond the walls. Right beside you, you’ll also find the Museo delle Mura di Bergamo, a small but really interesting museum that helps bring the story of the Venetian walls to life. It’s not huge, but it’s worth a quick wander.

    In the other direction, you will see right across the old town, including the three towers that still stand. The city used to be full of them, as warring families used them for defence, but most were subsequently torn down. From here, you can stroll along the walls themselves and take in the sweeping views over the countryside. It’s a 3 mile (5km) walk and frequented by joggers, dog-walkers and tourists alike. At a stroll, it’ll be a 1.5 hour walk.

    Explore the Città Alta

    From here, make your way through the narrow, winding streets to Piazza Duomo. Alongside Piazza Vecchia, these two squares form the heart of medieval Bergamo, connected by the striking Palazzo della Ragione and surrounded by some of the city’s most beautiful buildings. Take your time here, this is the kind of place where getting a little lost is part of the experience. Wander down side streets, peek into tiny shops, and stop for a coffee or gelato as you go. Along the ay, keep your eyes out for the Visconti fountain. This interesting structure was the main source of water for the medieval residents from 1342 – 1892.

    Climb the Campanone

    One of the three towers you will have seen from the fortress wall is the Civic Tower or Campanone. This tower stands at nearly 53 metres and has sweeping views from its upper terraces. Don’t worry, there is a lift to whisk you up to the top. Just a word of warning, the bell (the largest in Lombardy) still tolls, so if you are there on the hour, prepare for a jump scare. If you are still in town at 10 pm, listen out for it as it chimes 100 times. This tradition harks back to a time when this indicated the closing of the city gates.

    Marvel at the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore

    The church of Santa Maria looks quite plain from the outside, so you’re just not quite prepared for the baroque showstopper that awaits you. It’s one of those interiors that will stop even the most jaded travellers in their tracks. Take some time to properly look around, there so much to take in. The walls are draped in enormous Flemish tapestries, many dating back to the 16th and 17th centuries, depicting biblical scenes in incredible detail. One of the real highlights is the beautifully carved wooden choir stalls, featuring detailed inlays designed by Lorenzo Lotto, each panel telling its own story if you look closely enough. It’s also worth seeking out the tomb of composer Gaetano Donizetti, a proud Bergamo native. The ceiling is unbelievably ornate, but don’t forget to look down as well as up. The marble floors are just as intricate as the ceilings above. This isn’t somewhere to rush; take a moment, find a quiet spot, and just let the sheer scale and detail of it all sink in.

    Pop into Capella Colleoni

    Capella Colleoni is the final resting place of one of Bergamo’s most important men, Bartolommeo Colleoni (1400 – 1475). In fact, he was such a big deal that you can spy a fresco of in the church next door. He was rich enough to commission it himself. The front of his mausoleum is wonderfully elaborate with marble inlays and a rose window that illuminates the face of Colleoni’s statue inside. The statue is the newest thing in here, having been in 1501. Keep an eye out for the Corlleoni crest featuring three pictures that are exactly what they look like. This is backed up by the battle cry beneath, “Balls! Balls! Balls!”

    Get Your Culture Vulture on at the Museums

    The Accademi Carrara

    The Accademi Carrara started as a fine art school in the 1700s. It is still operating as an academy, but we are here to enjoy the art, not create it. The museum’s permanent collection is curated carefully to not only share the same time period room to room, but also the same geographical area. It makes the whole collection much more immersive. There are pieces from Italian masters here that even I have heard of, including Raphael and Botticelli. Don’t forget to spend a little time studying the wallpaper on the way in. It was commissioned specially for the stairway and features little details from the masterpieces in the galleries. Expansion in 2024 means there is a lovely new garden that is open to the public for free and you will find changing temporary exhibitions in the new section of the museum.

    GAMeC

    The Modern and Contemporary Art Gallery of Bergamo (GAMeC) seems altogether more eclectic than its more traditional counterpart. However,, there’s still a strong local influence, with many of the artists either Italian or invited to create pieces inspired by the region. Inside, you’ll find works by big names like Giacomo Balla and Giorgio Morandi, alongside rotating exhibitions that often lean into contemporary themes. The gallery is known for pushing boundaries a little more, so expect everything from abstract paintings to immersive installations. One of the more unique touches is the weekly discussion group, where serious art fans gather to analyse a single piece from the collection. It must be a fascinating conversation to sit in on, although you’ll need to speak Italian to eavesdrop and fully appreciate it.

    Feeling Foodie in Bergamo

    Bergamo is full of wonderful food spots (I mean, it is Italy, so that is to be expected), but a few really stand out. 

    Il Fornaio

    Light focaccia bases, topped with heavy balls of fresh burrata, a slice of pizza at Il Fornaio is an indulgent thing! Mind you, you might want to skip the burrata if you are on a budget, as the pizza here is charged by weight. Grab a ticket when you enter and wait for your number to be called. You can then choose your preferred pizza and request it to be warmed or not. Pick up your drink over at the bar and tuck in. 

    La Marianna

    Not only does this cafe serve delightful pastries and artisan chocolate, but it is also the home of stracciatella ice cream. For the uninitiated, stracciatella is super creamy vanilla fior di latte gelato, topped with lashings of melted dark chocolate. It is then stirred through, dispersing shards of the bitter, rich chocolate throughout. You can try the ice cream by itself or with a shot of espresso over the top, called the Cafe Mariana. They also have a sister cafe called Babilonia, where the ice cream and coffee are just as good.

    Ol Giopi e La Margi

    Taking the simple, traditional recipes of the Bergamo region, Ol Giopi e La Margi, brings them up to date. Their simple but delicious dishes are presented as nouvelle cuisine and are disarmingly delicious. Particularly noteworthy are the polenta with anchovies, saffron risotto with sausage and black truffle, and scarpinocc de Parre (incredibly traditional pasta stuffed with bread, herbs, spinach and cheese). There are tripe, horse, venison and rabbit dishes for those feeling particularly adventurous. Make sure you leave room for afters as they have both a cheese trolley and a dessert trolley. The joy in everyone’s eyes as these beauties are wheeled towards the table cannot be underestimated.

    Nonna Alda

    If you like to cook as well as eat, then make sure you sign up for a pasta lesson at Nonna Alda. This relaxed and enjoyable cookery lesson will teach you how to make casoncelli, the meat-stuffed pasta that originated in the villages around Bergamo, dating back hundreds of years. Take it from a pretty bad cook, this class was really fun, and it is incredible to learn how easy it is to make pasta from scratch! Plus, you don’t have to clean up the kitchen at a cookery class, so its great place to try mixing flour on a flat surface for the first time. You can take your pasta away to cook at your accommodation (so make sure you book a place with a kitchen if this is your plan). Alternatively, you can book a meal at Nonna Alda and have casoncelli made by an expert alongside loads of other absolutely delightful local dishes.

    Peschiera del Garda – Where History Meets the Lake

    Laidback lakeside living gives Peschiera del Garda its modern pace, but it was not always this chilled out. Once a strategic fortress town, its star-shaped Venetian walls still wrap around the historic centre, a reminder of its military past. Today, those same canals and ramparts are framed by cafés, bike paths and sparkling views across Lake Garda, making it one of the most relaxed gateways to the lake.

    Join a Walking Tour

    The tourist information shop at Piazzale Betteloni is the best place to start in the town. They run both hosted walking tours and audio tours for more independent travellers. This is the best way to see the city and learn the history behind the walls. From here, you can follow the Venetian fortifications as they curve around the water’s edge, with sections of the ramparts opening up to great views across Lake Garda. As you walk, the town’s history begins to unfold.

    Just beyond the walls, you’ll find the remains of the Roman settlement, the Abitato Romano di Arilica, where foundations and mosaics from homes built over 2,000 years ago are free to peek at from the street above. Next door, the Parish Church of San Martino Vescovo is worth a quick stop, even if the interior is relatively simple, thanks to a beautifully restored fresco above the altar.

    Across the Ponte dei Voltoni, you will come across the old soldiers’ barracks, the Caserma d’artiglieria di Porta Verona. Don’t miss the moving memorial dedicated to the police who lost their lives in service, as well as the elegant pavilion nearby, home to elegant shops and cute cafes.

    Relax at The Pavilion’s Cafes

    Speaking of those cafes, this is the perfect place to sit down and enjoy a coffee or an aperitivo. The Pavilion’s waterside edge is lined with cafes, bars and restaurants, all with high tables that overlook the dazzling blue water. Take a stroll along and pick the one with the menu that takes your fancy (or has a spare seat). Floreali is both a florist and the most Instagrammable cafe of the bunch…pun intended. Inside is obviously full of floral delights, but they even have cute flowers on their outdoor tables. Dispensa Ufficiali is a tapas bar with a delectable house bellini with cognac, peach and raspberry. Our other favourite is La Bottega, a deli with incredible charcuterie boards to linger over. Of course, they all do a mean spritz, so if that’s what you are after, you can take your pick.

    Take to the Water

    Peschiera del Garda is surrounded by water and as such, they do a good line in boat rides. A 30 minute trip around the fortress walls offers a different perspective, as well as a lovely excuse to relax. As you bob along, be sure to keep an eye out for the underwater foundations of the ancient Ponte Belgioioso, which, before 1550, connected the Scaligero castle to the mainland. The Venetians redesigned the area into a fortress and destroyed the bridge. Don’t worry, they built a couple of nice gates to make up for it, the most magnificent of which is the Porta Verona with its winged lion, also visible from the canals.

    Visit a Vineyard for Some Wonderful Wine

    Peschiera del Garda is a fantastic base for exploring the area’s vineyards. You’ll be surrounded by the Lugana wine region, famous for its fragrant white wines, while the Bardolino area, just a short trip away, is celebrated for its easy-drinking reds and rosés. To try some of these delicious drinks, head to Domenico Fraccaroli Winery. Here you can enjoy a wine tasting or opt for a meal in Sapori, their agriturismo restaurant, which comes with a wine pairing.

    They also offer cellar tours, guiding guests through the story of the winery and some interesting details of the grapes and region. It also includes an intriguing look at their bottling plant too. It may not be as picturesque as the ageing barrels, but it’s a side of the winemaking process that isn’t usually included on these kinds of tours. Of course, you will exit through the gift shop, but when that means stocking up on a few bottles of crisp white wine, it is totally acceptable.

    Palmanova – Italy’s Ideal Star-shaped City

    No, Palmanova is not just another small Italian town. Its perfectly symmetrical star-shaped design makes it one of the most unique places in the country, best appreciated from above, where the geometry really comes into its own. Compared to the organic sprawl of most historic towns, everything here feels perfectly precise. I wonder how difficult it is to furnish the properties in the city as the buildings are all at slightly odd angles to fit the architectural brief. It was once referred to as the “ideal city” thanks to its perfect planning and, perhaps surprisingly, the fact that it was never actually conquered, later coming under Napoleonic control and being expanded rather than destroyed. The military only left in 1995, which brought the population down to around 5,000 and left behind a remarkably quiet atmosphere for visitors today.

    Walk the Walls

    There is a trail that runs the whole way around walls of Palmanova, and it is a popular place to take a walk or go for a run. With the imposing walls on one side and grassy hillocks on the other, it’s a pleasant view and a real contrast from the streets inside. It takes around an hour to walk the whole path, with a little added time to enter the tunnels and ramparts that are available to explore. Don’t miss the three mighty main gates, which all date back to the early 1600s. Especially cool is Porta Udine which houses two giant wooden wheels that were used to raise and lower a drawbridge. Pack a little picnic and stop at one of the benches along the way, or lay out a blanket on the grass, for a foodie break along the way. There are a few small, artisan shops in town to pick up the most delectable nibbles.

    Go Below in the Countermine Galleries

    Running beneath the outer walls of Palmanova is a network of countermines, a series of tunnels designed for one very specific purpose, to stop an invading army before they could breach the town’s inner walls. These passages were originally lined with explosives so that if an enemy managed to cross the grassy embankments, they would be met with a controlled underground blast beneath their feet. Be sure to pick up a leaflet at the entrance, as the audio guide is genuinely excellent and really brings the tunnels to life with stories and context that you’d otherwise miss. Most of the wider tunnel system is closed off for safety reasons, there may be remaining explosives, so stick to the official museum route and avoid any temptation to explore beyond the barriers at other entrances.

    Piazza Grande

    Piazza Grande is the hexagonal area at the centre of the city (can you say it’s a hexagonal square?). Once used for military parades and drills, it is now a quiet space surrounded by coloured facades and the odd cute cafe. The centre is gravel which doesn’t feel super welcoming, but it was used for musters and other military parades, and the city decided to keep it to remember the bygone years. Today, it plays host to festivals and concerts organised by the city. In the south west is the Loggia dei Mercanti, the Merchants’ Lodge or Grand Guard’s Lodge. It dates back to the 1620s and has some beautiful details, including amazing carved wooden doors and wrought iron decorative gates. It’s open and free, plus, there’s a handy map in here too.

    stu.dio/Shutterstock.com

    If you are looking for somewhere to stay, Hotel Ai Dogi has two locations right on the edge of Piazza Grande. It’s perfect for sightseeing.

    Duomo del Santissimo Redentore

    In a city full of buildings designed not to peek above the ramparts, the church overlooking Piazza Grande seems quite imposing. The grand facade is adorned with columns and three statues depicting (from left to right) St John, Christ the Redeemer and St Justina of Padua. St Justina is the patron saint of Palmanova as well as Padua and Venice. Above them is a the bronze lion of St Mark, another strong Venetian connection as you’ll find the original atop a column in St Marks Square, Venice.

    At first glance, the interior might seem a little plain but there are some lovely details. Bold and bright stained glass splashes colour across the pews, in contrast to the more muted paintings around the walls. Behind the altar is a fresco of Jesus in the ascendance that dates from the 17th century when the church was built. Finally, in the side entrance, you’ll see a modern mosaic which depict Palmanova and you can spot the bronze lion here too.

    Take a Trip in the Virtualift

    Hidden in a courtyard at the back of the tourism office is a new immersive screen experience called the Virtualift. Short of flying a drone, or growing wings yourself, this is the best way to see the city from above. You can choose from two different programs. The first is shorter at about five minutes, and just shows the city from above, but the longer one also includes some interesting shots of the historical re-enactments that happen here annually. The lift is open at the weekends and during special events.

    Il Melograno Naturalmente Buono – Palmanova

    With restaurants in Udine, Trieste and Palmanova, Il Melograno focuses on local, fresh ingredients. They have a pizza oven but this isn’t their strongest option. Instead, go for a few starters and desserts. You can pick up things to take home. Il Melograno is an excellent spot if you are vegetarian as they have plenty of options that you won’t find elsewhere. Oh, and of course you need to have a glass of the tart and syrupy pomegranate juice to go with your meal!

    Caffeteria Torinese

    Right on the main square, is a café bar that is popular with both passing tourists in need of a quick caffeine fix and Palmanova residents enjoying a slow lunch date. With a glass of something stronger. This is an ideal spot to try frico, a Moorish combination of potatoes, onions, and the local Montasio cheese, a little reminiscent of emmental. Alternatively, they do excellent sandwiches I’m delicious pastries. From tiramisu complete with pipettes full of espresso to chocolate cookies and lemon tarts, they do a great selection of sweets. Just look at this adorable little fruit tart!

    …and Venice?

    Well, I couldn’t go all the way to Friuli-Venezia Giulia and not pop down to the spot that started it all. I can only advise that you do the same. Venice is an incredible city, a unique water-based world with glamour, history and art that will take your breath away. The architecture contrasts bright white marble churches with crumbling building in beautiful faded colours. Youwill feel like you are in a gorgeous film set the entire time you are there. Grab a spritz, stroll the streets and grab some chiccheti for lunch. Perfection. (There is a reason Ive been back time and time again. Check out my blog post about Venice for a wonderful way to see the city in a day. There’s a food tour and a nearby hostel review too.

    Final Thoughts on Exploring the Venetian Fortresses of Northern Italy

    From mighty hilltop strongholds to perfectly designed star cities, these Venetian fortresses reveal a different side of Italy. Exploring them isn’t just about history, it’s about discovering quiet corners, incredible landscapes, and regional flavours in an Italy you’ve never thought of visiting. This adventure is very easy to do by car, with drives no longer than two and a half hours. However, if driving isn’t your thing (whether you can’t drive, want to relax, or want to enjoy a vino or two), you can do it using Italy’s excellent trains.

    Once you’ve traced Venice’s legacy across the mainland, the next question is, “Are we heading to the Dalmatian coast to finish the list?”

    Rosie xx

  • That Time I was in the 10th World Pesto Championship Final

    That Time I was in the 10th World Pesto Championship Final

    Standing in an overcrowded departure gate, waiting to board our delayed RyanAir flight to Genoa, fortune didn’t seem to be on our side. Hopefully, this would all be left behind in the UK and Italy would be a little luckier. After four months of anticipation, and zero practice, it was time for me to take part in the 10th World Pesto Championship final. Come with me to Genoa, Italy.

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    The 10th Pesto World Championship

    In November 2023, a fun and utterly surreal evening saw me win the London heat of the Pesto World Championship. I was a rather tipsy and it was all very unreal. You can read all about it in my last blog post about this crazy experience.

    As a “finalista”, I was invited to Italy to take part in the final. The kind organisers offer finalists a room in Genoa and to help with the price of flights. Well, it would be incredibly rude to say no!! I was ready to take this mad ride.

    My mum, hearing of this success, immediately forwarded me a youtube video or a pesto master and was excited to hear about my training scheule. I think it was slightly shocking when I revealed that I wasn’t planning to practise. Honestly, I was a bit conflicted about this but thought it would be way more fun to keep trying to ride the wave of beginner’s luck. This was probably the wrong decision in hindsight but I was all kinds of giddy.

    Heading to Genoa

    Three months slipped by in a blur of festive fun, work shifts, and three international trips. All of a sudden, it was March, and time to hop on a plane to Italy. There had been zero practise…but lots of eating pesto of course. I was lucky enough to visit Genoa briefly, as part of a cruise in January 2023. It was rather cold and rainy so I was not convinced I had gotten a sense of the city. It was very cool to return as part of the pesto festival.

    The Big Day

    We got up bright and early and made our way downstairs for breakfast. Still a bit jetlagged from India, it was a struggle. As we got ready, I crammed by watching pesto videos, including the one Mum had sent me in good faith. Our hotel, the Best Western Plus City Hotel, put on an excellent breakfast spread. I don’t eat breakfast at home but couldn’t resist having a few bits. The croissants were buttery and crispy, and the smoked salmon perfect (I had a real feast here the next day). I had joked about getting drunk at breakfast to match my booze level at the original competition. Obviously, I hadn’t really meant it but there was Prosecco on the buffet sooooo…

    Don’t worry, I only had the one.

    Palazzo Ducale

    The final took place in Genoa’s cultural hub, Palazzo Ducale (the Doge’s palace). I remembered it from the cruise I took in 2023 but my friend and I had decided not to pay to go in. It was cool to head up the huge stairs but the scale was rather intimidating. I was handed a number and then we waited, eyeballing the competition. It was like the maddest audition I’d ever done.

    I was expecting it all to take place in a series of meeting rooms but it was actually held in a big, beautiful hall called the Salone del Maggior Consiglio (the Grand Council Chamber). The walls and ceiling were bedecked in glittering gold, stunning paintings and lined in striking red marble. We were escorted in, one by one, and it took the breath away.

    Everyone was shown to their table on the side. I had number 35. Then the awkward wait began. We had assumed that, with a couple of hours between arrival and the competition, I woud have some free time. Instead, we waited in the hall, chatting nervously with one another. I met a lovely lady from Paris, a gent from Milan that then disappeared for ages, and a lady from Liguria thanks to the marvels of Google translate.

    The Rules

    Everybody is given same gear and the same ingredients…kind of. You are given an apron and cap. I think we were meant to keep the cap on the whole time but not everyone did. Trying to win any Brownie points possible, I was in the cap from the beginning to the end!

    On the table was a selection of ingredients. We all had:

    • A bag of basil – Local basil which apparently has smaller more fragrant leaves.
    • Two packets of pine nuts – I think this brand was a sponsor.
    • A small bottle of extra virgin olive oil – Local and delicious. Everyone took their bottles with them.
    • Pecorino – More about this later.
    • Parmesan – Always a good idea.
    • Course salt – This helps break down the basil leaves during the crushing.
    • Garlic – This came in a cute little bag.
    • A wooden pestle and stone mortar – We could use our own or borrow one. Both people on either side of me had their own….which was scary.

    The combination of these ingredients and the method of creating the pesto all lead to our scores. We were also given a questionnaire about the amounts of ingredients we planned to use, and about our opinions on making pesto.

    The Starting Blocks

    Next door, the children’s competition took place. Teams of two or three budding chefs challenged each other for the title of junior champs Havin seen a fair few episodes of Junior Bake Off and Junior Masterchef, I can guarantee that every one of these kids is more talented than me. I like to think of mysef as the comedy entrant in Celebrity Bake Off.

    The main doors opened and the public entered. Then, from a the side room, the kids made their way into our hall then things really began. The children’s choir sang a nice song and the speeches began. Everything was in Italian but we clapped when everyone else clapped. An award was presented to the entrant that had come from furthest away. Everyone had clocked the Japanese guy but there were two Brazilian people who took the crown.

    Ready, Pesto, GO!

    Smiling and clapping along, I slightly missed the start of the compeition and realised that everyone had started moving. I leapt into action! Going though my videos of the original heat, I had two main takeaways (that were clear instructions).

    • Don’t use too much garlic or salt.
    • Use one spoon of pecorino and two of parmesan (sung for effect to myself).

    I started by crushing a whole clove of garlic, saving a little just incase I wanted to add it in ater. Then one spoon of pine nuts went in, smushing them until creamy. So far, so good. Then the nerves set in!

    Error One

    I was ready to move on to my basil but no one else had picked up their bag. There I stood, wondering what I had missed. I consulted with Mr Fluskey but he didn’t know of course. Then, I realised people were on to their basil. I panicked and threw some in, beginning to crush the bright green leaves before realising I hadn’t taken the stalks off! Having used a fresh plant last time, I hadn’t thought about stripping the eaves as I had done it naturally. “It’s fine”, I thought, “I will just pound the living daylights out of them”.

    Error Two

    Giving the mortar a joyful bashing, Mr Fluskey got my attention. There was a lady standing with him and they were both telling me that it was time for cheese. I was unsure but worried that I was getting the whole thing wrong, I put in half. One pecorino, and half a parmesan….if you have spotted the error, you are doing better than I was.

    Judges passed by in front of me as I continued struggling through. The scrutiny wasn’t deflected by my cap brim quite as well as hoped. I added the rest of the cheese (another spoon of pecorino and another half of parmesan) and finished with a flourish of oil. 25 minutes, not too shabby.

    I gave my concoction a final taste. Something was off. It was so cheesy! I was confused as I was sure I had used the same amounts of everything as last time. Maybe I had picked more basil from the plant than I had used from the bag? I stripped more leaves, grabbed a little more of my crushed garlic and a tiny bit of salt and chucked them in. I was slightly frantic. What if they wouldn’t crush well? Time was ticking by and this may be my undoing. I did my best but it was still so weirdly cheesy. Confused about the pesto but out of time, I decided to decorate the bowl with two little basil leaves. Again, any Brownie points I could wangle was good.

    Oh….PecoriNO!

    It was only at the very end, when they announced the final was over, I realised why it seemed so wrong. Despite the one of the only instructions I remember from my original video was the song, “One Pecorino, Two Parmesan”, I dumped two lots of really strong pecorino in. You wouldn’t believe what a difference it makes. It was still nice, but not pesto. The cheese was so strong that I had the aftertaste in my mouth for ages. What a fool.

    Clearly, I used up ALL my beginner’s luck in round one and I shouldn’t have let the nerves get the better of me.

    As we were leaving the judges to their work, we bumped into the gentleman that started the whole World Pesto Championship, Roberto Panizza. I was deeply embarrassed to tell how I had messed up but it was so nice to see him again.

    Confessions of a bad cook

    Our Afternoon in Genoa

    We went for a lovely lunch at a nearby spot which was really busy, pleasingly cheap and really yummy. We got some pesto pasta (obviously), meat ravioli and a small jug of wine to ease my shame. For dessert, I had a brilliant tiramisu and Mr Fluskey enjoyed a rum affogato (thats ice cream and rum, no espresso).

    After lunch, we took an audio tour around Genoa. It was nice to stay out and awake and to walk off lunch. There were some really pretty buildings to discover and have you been to Italy if you haven’t been in at least three churches a day?

    The Pesto Party

    We made it back to the hotel with 45 minutes to get freshened up. Everyone was invited back to Palazzo Ducale for a pesto party. We weren’t sure what to expect. The sensible part of my brain expected wine and a pesto buffet but a tiny part hoped there would be pesto wrestling in the middle of the room and pesto foam raves in the side rooms. We entered and saw stalls surrounding the room, with plenty of people mingling with glasses of wine. The sensible option clearly won out.

    A Plethora of Pesto

    We had a lovely time working our way between the different stops, grabbing tasty bites to share. Some highlights included:

    • A selection of cheese – We discovered a new love, Paesanella.
    • Pesto mashed potato topped with lovely soft octopus and more pesto.
    • Genovese tomato salad with anchovy fondue.
    • Artichoke cream, pepper crumble and more super tender octopus – I had to get seconds.
    • A vat of pasta and pesto – I wonder if they used to competition pesto for this?
    • Croquettes with garlic mayo.
    • Salami with pesto – We couldn’t take this home but wish we could. It was so tasty.
    • Americano al Basilico Cocktail – It had distinctly Negroni vibes so I think it was that with added basil. Mr Fluskey loved these so much that he had seconds…and thirds. I had two and then grabbed a white wine.

    It was so nice to relax, taste delicious morsels and say hi to people we met earlier in the day. Plus, it was all sound tracked by a musical duo singing about the joys of Liguria and its cuisine. Here is our favourite song from the evening:

    The Results

    A few days after returning to the UK, the full competition score listings were announced. I was almost too scared to look but somehow, I beat 24 people! I guess that means I came 75th our of 199 or so. It is not amazing but I am weirdly proud that I didn’t lose outright.

    Final Thoughts on my Time in the World Pesto Championship Final

    What an amazing experience it was to take part in the World Pesto Championship. The whole thing was surreal, fun and a great excuse to return to Genoa. I was going to say that it has given me a greater appreciation of pesto but I already loved it so much that I am not sure that could be possible. On the flip side, after my poor showing, I was concerned I would be put off by pesto. That is part of the reason we order pesto for lunch. Happily, I can report, I consumed two giant bowls of pesto-smothered pasta within a week of returning home from Italy so no danger of PTSD here!

    Rosie xx

  • So, I Accidentally Entered the World Pesto Championship 2024 – Round One

    So, I Accidentally Entered the World Pesto Championship 2024 – Round One

    Pesto is my favourite food. No, really. Green, red, artichoke, smother it on pasta, chicken or a mozzarella sandwich and I will be yours forever. Punchy flavours and fond memories, it is my comfort food. That is why, when offered the chance to Instagram a pesto event in London, I was there in a heartbeat. So how did I end up taking part in the World Pesto Championship? I am not sure myself…there was a cocktail or two involved!

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    What is Pesto?

    Born in Genoa the main city of Liguria in the northwest of Italy, pesto has been around since the 16th century. A traditional pesto contains:

    • Basil
    • Garlic
    • Pine nuts
    • Olive oil
    • Parmesan
    • Salt

    The word pesto means to crush, so as you can imagine you take these tasty ingredients and beat the hell out of them in a pestle and mortar. Eventually, you get a glorious green gloop, good for dousing pasta in or adding to….well, anything really. I like my pasta with more than the recommended serving. My Mum used to make pasta with the pesto and some of the cooking water which diluted it and I was furious every time.

    My (possibly unhealthy) Relationship with Pesto

    Now, don’t tell anyone at the competition but I have fought for years about the joy of jarred pesto. Everyone says, “But it is so easy to make yourself”. Sure, but the whole point of comfort food is that it is quick and easy. If you are in emotional distress, you don’t want to be missing one vital ingredient for your pesto or to spend ages pounding it…although that may be quite therapeutic actuallly. Boiling a quick pan of pasta (and yes, we do have the quick cook kind sometimes) and smothering it in too much yummy, green pesto means a bowl of happiness in just five minutes.

    The World Pesto Championship

    The world’s top pesto competition is held every two years in Genoa (Apart from that year when everything went digital). Throughout the year, competitions have been taking place all over the world. Chefs and amateurs alike have been whittled down in a series of heats with 100 hopefuls all meeting in Genoa for the finals. Everyone gets a pestle and mortar and identical ingredients. There are 40 minutes on the clock and it must all be done by hand. On the 23rd March 2024, there will be 10 morning rounds with 10 participants before the grand final in the afternoon. The top 10 will show down in the final round for the title judged by 30 experts. These include restauranteurs, chefs and food critics (eek). Winners get a pestle with a gold handle and the honour of being the Pesto Champion of the World!

    The First Round

    The Invite

    World Travel Market is London’s biggest travel expo. It is held at Excel in London’s Docklands and s attended by industry professionals, journalists, content creators, businesses and networkers galore. We have attended for the last five years and it is fun, exhausting and interesting in equal measure. Throughout the week, there are loads of side events and sometimes, we get asked along to one or two. This year, I was sent my dream invitation, an event all about pesto and held in a cocktail bar that I had wanted to try for a few years. Lyaness in the Sea Containers Hotel has the best reputation for innovative and truly delicious drinks, all within an exceedingly trendy Thames-side hotel.

    Liguria, Italy has floated a huge barge down the River Thames, laden with a giant pestle and mortar full of pesto. Some content creators had spent the day on the vessel, learning how to make the sauce and I watched their stories with giggles to myself. It looked like hard work. It was a relief that my attendance only required eating the delicious green gold and drinking some of the expertly crafted cocktails.

    The Evening Begins

    I arrived aggressively on time and made my way into the bar, a slight panic setting in. Everyone already there was slim, beautiful and elegantly attired in their best black dresses or sharpest black suits. I was distinctly underdressed in a fifties style, houndstooth dress. It was my, “I like cute dresses but please take me seriously” fit. Somehow, I had found myself in an event full of London’s most fabulous Italians. I gravitated straight to the bar for a nerve-steadying beverage. The basil mojito was unusual but very tasty and worryingly easy to drink. A second followed quickly as other people I knew started to arrive from WTM.

    Now, I would like you to bear the cocktails in mind when judging the photography in this post. Also, I was not aware I would be on camera.

    Appetisers and Aperol

    There was a small buffet to one side of the bar. A vat of pesto (of course), bread, tomatoes, mozzarella and other Italian cheeses. Taking a small plate, I tucked in quickly. I hadn’t found my buddies at this point so I didn’t really have anywhere to sit. I decided not to go for seconds but instead, try their Aperol Spritz. This may come from the other side of Northern Italy but I will forgive them their non-Ligurian ways as it was very well made. Turns out there were oysters and all kinds of delicious dishes at the other end of the bar which I entirely missed! Whoops.

    The barge floated into view and we all head out into the chilly evening to snap photos. It was a very cold week actually, temperatures haven’t been that low in the two months since. Another drink was grabbed to ensure a proper cocktail coat.

    The Competition

    On the way back in, one of the organisers said a couple of spots had opened up and asked if we wanted to hop in. Feeling distinctly tipsy and therefore a little reckless I said, “Why not”. It would be a fun way to end the night and I could tell Mr Fluskey that I was in the London heat of the competition.

    The World Pesto Championship president, Roberto Panizza took centre stage to give everyone a demonstration. I tried my best to listen but was so worried that I would forget what to do that I shouted instructions into a selfie video as an aide-mémoire. As long as it makes sense, it is now my recipe book.

    I took to the pestle and mortar with the amazing encouragement of food influencer Lilly Diep (@dieponfood). I was getting stuck in but also eating rather a lot of both the raw ingredients and my own pesto. It wasn’t hygienic but it is my favourite food! I just couldn’t resist!

    I think we were working on it for around 10 minutes. There was a pint that I realised I hadn’t seen when the oil was glugged in so I was definitely doing my own thing when I chucked it in at the last minute.

    Here are my terrible video recordings, meant just for me but shared as a visual aid.

    The Award

    The judges made their way around the entrant’s bowls, tasting each with small plastic spoons. We mingled, giggled, drank a cocktail and some people were dancing. It was all very jovial. There was an announcement that the winner had been chosen so we crowded around. I took a spot at the end of the table, phone poised to record the winner in all their glory. Well, it was my name that was announced and I screamed before bursting out laughing in disbelief. It was unanimous! What a fluke.

    I was presented with my “Finalista” certificate and grinned into the bright lights of the cameras. Apparently, we were on Italian TV but thankfully, I’ve never seen any of the footage.

    The Next Round

    So, we are off to Italy and the World Pesto Championship. Genoa is the location of the competition, more specifically the Doge’s Palace. We have our flights booked and a plan to swing down to Cinque Terre and Pisa too. It would be rude not to. I visited Genoa briefly on an MSC Mediterranean cruise but it was a rainy January day and I am not sure it was giving its best. It will be great to see it again.

    I am, of course, not expecting to win. You need to hear a compilation of my friends and family when I told them I was in a cooking competition. I am SO good at eating but cooking is NOT my forte. Still, I can’t wait to give it a good go and have fun doing it. There are proper chefs that take part in this competition. Most of the previous winners are Italian (almost half from Genoa itself) but in 2008, some guy called Danny Bowien won.

    Oh, turns out he is a James Beard Award-winning Korean-American chef with restaurants in New York.

    I will be updating this post with the results and documenting my competition on Instagram. Follow along in March!

    @flyingfluskey – Pesto IG Highlights

    Final Thoughts

    As a kid, we all saw adults in competitions saying they never thought they would get the chance to do something like this. I think I relate to them now. It may have all been an accident, but what an excellent excuse to return to Genoa and try something crazy. Plus, I am going to eat SO much pesto!

    Ready for the results? Check out That Time I was in the 10th World Pesto Championship Final

    Rosie Fluskey (World Pesto Championship Finalist 2024) xx

  • All Aboard MSC – An MSC Grandiosa Review

    All Aboard MSC – An MSC Grandiosa Review

    MSC Cruises is Italy’s foremost cruise company, running its first cruise in 1988 and growing every year. They offer some amazing value cruises around the world with lots of great extras included in the price. In January 2023 my friend (Caz) and I were lucky enough to bag a spot on MSC Grandiosa for a week-long Mediterranean cruise. Read on for our full MSC Grandiosa review.

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    A quick note: I am not going to review every last spot on the ship, but those that are worth a mention.

    The Ports

    Our Mediterranean cruise was due to visit six ports over seven days:

    • Barcelona, Spain (where we embarked and disembarked) – A fun city full of amazing tapas, plenty of culture, art and history. Add to that a generous helping of Gaudi architecture and you have a wonderful city for a short break at either end of the cruise.
    • Marseille, France – Marseille gets a bad rap but it has some lovely areas. Head up to the pretty Notre Dame de la Garde for beautiful views over the city or take a seat by the port full of little boats and slurp down some iconic bouillabaisse chased with some anise-flavoured pastis.
    • Genoa, Italy – Walk quickly around the port and up to Genoa‘s old town for a nice relaxing stroll through cafe-lined streets. Grab some pesto-smothered pasta and an Aperol Spritz or a prosecco for a taste of local life.
    • Civitavecchia (for Rome), Italy – The most popular thing to do from this port is a long day trip into the city of Rome. You can check out the most famous sights (Trevi Fountain, The Colosseum etc) or visit Vatican City. It is wise to take one of the prearranged trips as the boat will wait for them at the end of the day and it can be a long journey independently.
    • Palermo, Sicily – The capital of Sicily has two beautiful concert venues, plenty of pretty churches, delicious markets and beaches nearby. We organised a food tour with Palermo Street Food during our stop here which was a brilliant way to explore the city.
    • Valletta, Malta – Probably the most gorgeous of the stops in this itinerary, Valletta is a wonderful walking city. There is a wonderful blend of cuisines to savour, churches to explore (the cathedral is incredible) and world war two tunnels to take you back in time. We love Malta, and here is our Malta content for you to have a nosy!

    The Weather

    Due to some inclement weather, our journey took longer than expected and some changes were made. The entry to Civitavecchia took a very long time so day trips to Rome became unviable. Instead, we checked out the spa. The visit to Valletta was also cancelled to allow the ship a chance to get back to Barcelona and back on track. Unusually, passengers could embark at many of the stops, a nice way to ensure people don’t have to travel too far to cruise. I wonder what happened to the people who were meant to travel to/from Valletta?

    Let’s head back on board and have a look at the ship.

    Our Interior Stateroom

    Firstly, let me apologise for the quality of most of these pictures, they were screen grabs from a quick room tour.

    We had an interior stateroom which is the smallest and darkest of the rooms on board. I missed the window massively, having no sense of the weather or time when I woke up. We had an unexpected day at sea due to the weather and we spent much of the day in the dark as the ship rolled. It was nice to doze but so weird without the daylight.

    When we boarded, the beds were set as a double but our steward assured us that he would redress the room for my friend and I to have twin beds.

    How it started…
    …how it’s going

    By each of our beds, we had a little table, a wall light and a plug which was great.

    Over to one side of the room was a dressing table/desk. There were some plugs here so it became both our hair station and charging station. There was a shelf with clever glass inserts, keeping our in room glasses safe.

    Under this was a strange electronic device. This was called Zoe and it was meant to be the MSC version of Alexa. We couldn’t really get it to work (turns out, she speak Italian…and we don’t) but we could use it as a Bluetooth speaker, which we enjoyed. It was nice to listen to music out of a reasonable speaker whilst getting ready for dinner.

    To one side of the wardrobe was the TV which we only used for the safety video as we preferred to be out of the room where we could see the outside world.

    The bathroom was small on one hand but very roomy on the other. The sink was in the corner, with a double mirror, making this area feel much bigger. The toilet and shower were both on the same side, giving a large space to walk in and out of the bathroom. Finally, as there was a towel rack and a reasonably large shelving unit, the countertop could be kept clear, again giving the illusion of space.

    The Ship – A Look Around MSC Grandiosa

    The Food and Beverage

    Buffet Breakfast

    Breakfast on MSC Grandiosa is spread over 5 hours, which really puts less of a strain on the room. This isn’t the case on popular port days where everyone is there at the same time and it is quite hard to find a table.

    The buffet itsaelf had a lovely, large variety of options. A big, bread selection sat next to two delectable cake selections. Italians do very good breakfast cakes! There is lots of fresh fruit and two stations for hot items like sausages (frankfurter style), egg and tomatoes. Then of course, there was loads of cold meats and excellent cheeses from all across Europe. It was nice to see a section with chilled fish too, including rollmops and other Scandi options.

    Yes, we did make sandwiches to take off the ship with us using the cream cheese and cucumbers.

    A La Carte Breakfast

    I can’t believe we didn’t know about this until our very last morning. We thought that the Purple Carb, another dining room, was serving another buffet but it was actually a la carte! I chose a ham and cheese omelette with smoked salmon on the side. Paired with some more of that excellent coffee and I suddenly wanted another week on board!

    Buffet Lumch

    The lunch buffet was a little lack lustre in my opinion. There was plenty of pasta dishes, Asian noodles and pre-made burgers. It was all pretty stodgy. That being said, I loved watching them prepare mozzarella in the glass-fronted area as we walked into the buffet. This cheese was readily available, fresh on the buffet and used on the pizzas that were coming out every few minutes next door.

    The Main Dining Room

    The main dining room we were in was called La Perla Grigia. It had a cool central area, lined with bottles of wine which was very stylish. Guests are assigned a table for the length of their cruise. It was nice not to share but we were in a corner, in close quarters with the same English couple next to us the whole time. It would have been nice to meet some new friends every day…or not be so close as to have to make friends.

    The food options were wide enough that we found something we wanted to try every day. Caz is gluten-free and our waiter was brilliant, bringing her a different menu every night, and her own bread too. I felt the food was presented reasonably, with a few stand out dishes which looked great. However, many of the dishes felt cheap. I ordered a prawn risotto and it had a grand total of three prawns. The meat and two options seemed a bit like they came from a fancy school canteen. There was a marked improvement in quality on the formal night so obviously, the food got a glow up too.

    Speciality Dining

    MSC Grandiosa has four specialty restaurants. For an extra cost, you can add a dining package which allows you a set selection to choose from. Doing this in advance saves up to 40%. There are lots of upcharge options in each restaurant but you can have a delicious dinner with no extra, extra cost if you want.

    • L’Atelier Bistrot – The French bistro-style spot was our first speciality meal and it was alo of fun. Sadly, the restaurant was nearly empty so it was lacking a lot of atmosphere. However, the food was fantastic. The snails were not too tough and didn’t look too scary. Then the chips were really crispy and fluffy, and the roast chicken super tender. Top marks!
    • Keito Sushi and Teppanyaki – Seafood is my happy place, so of course I jumped at the chance to try the ship’s sushi spot. The grilled prawn were perfectly cooked, shame there was only one each. The sushi was pretty good, but it was a shame not to be able to pick our own dishes. I got lucky, as the selection included some of my favourites.
    • Hola! Tapas Bar – Unfortunately, we didn’t make it to the tapas bar. We were planning to but the gluten-free otions were almost non-existant so we made our way to Butcher’s Cut instead.
    • Butcher’s Cut – Mr Fluskey doesn’t love a steak so I don’t get the chance to go for a fancy slab of meat very often. We started with some egg-cellent (yes, I had to) devilled eggs. It was so fun to finally try these after years of seeing them on TV for years. Caz opted for tartare and said it was perfection. Then it was time for steak! I was a bit disappointed in the size when it first arrived but it was tender, juicy and just the right amount…so what do I know. To finish I had a skillet cookie and it filled me to the brim so it was lucky the steak wasn’t any bigger.
    The Drinks

    We decided to buy the drinks package for the duration of our trip. This just meant we could relax and not worry about prices throughout the trip. I am so glad we did as we ended up with an extra sea day and having a few cocktails throughout the day eased the disappointment. It also meant we could try some silly things. This flaming shot for example, supplied by the brilliant guys in the Masters of the Sea pub. I worked my way through a fair few strawberry bellinis.

    You can pay as you go, or get a package with MSC Cruises. If you plan to have a package buy it before you board, it is 15% cheaper. You must have the same package as those you share a room with so it may take some negotiation. We opted for the Easy Package which is the cheapest of the alcoholic options. We had a selection of wines, sparkling and still, and about 12 cocktails to pick from. It was plenty.

    The Entertainment

    The Main Theatre de Comedie

    There was a show in the main theatre every night. It houses just under 1000 people so you need to be there and ready to go when it opens. This was not a big blockbuster musical or a headliner comedian. Instead, these were jukebox type shows with lots of singing and dancing. They were clearly catering for the vast array of languages on board, making sure the maximum number of people could enjoy them. I had fun singing along…not sure those around me enjoyed my singing but hey ho. The singers were talented, and I loved some of the sections in the shows but it would have been nice to see somehting more narrative on a couple of nights.

    The Circus Shows

    For an added fee (I think it was around £25), you can see a show at the other end of the ship, in the Carousel bar. This involves a lot of circus performers and makes a nice change from the other shows. Again, it is a series of acts but the physical prowess and upgrade of production values made it feel like it was worth it. Plus, the tickets price included a welcome drink…so that was nice.

    Parties and Live Music

    MSC knows how to throw a party. The main thoroughfare was turned into a crazy disco on more than one occasion. Worthy of note were the silent disco (always hilarious from both inside and outside of the party). We also got involved in the white party with lots of singing along to Italian songs we didn’t know, copying dance moves from the crew and jumping up and down. We were so happy to see not one, not two, but three conga line moments on evening as we sipped our drinks and watched from the balcony of the Masters of the Sea pub.

    Earlier in the day, and dotted around the ship, live bands entertained the crowd, and dance lessons kept people limber. On our cruise there was one particular couple that strut their ballroom stuff at every chance they could get. They were ship celebs. We never joined in with the dancing but on an itinerary with more sea days, I would absolutely have been up and wiggling too.

    The Recreation Areas

    Galleria Grandiosa and The Infinity Atrium

    Referred to as “the main thoroughfare” earlier in the post is the Galleria Grandiosa. This area runs through the centre of the ship on two levels and is home to the shops and speciality restaurants. Along the roof was a huge, curved screen….at least, I think it was a screen. This had beautiful scenes throughout the day from sunny skies to stained glass windows, pretending to be an art gallery to displaying abstract art itself. In the early evenings, they had cool animated projection shows that lasted 10-15 minutes. It was nice to grab a drink and watch, or just to be surprised by one that you didn’t know was coming. At one end was the theatre, and at the other the space opened up and down into the Infinity Atrium. This housed some impressive décor, including the iconic Swarovski stairs. These glitter with crystals and it is so hard to capture just how pretty they are on camera.

    The shops, known in an enclave called Piazza del Lusso didn’t hold anything for me. Designer brands aren’t my cup of tea and to be honest, a week long cruise with hand luggage meant absolutely no shopping anywhere. For those who are into retail therapy, there was a nice selection of jewellery, watch, clothing and beauty shops to play in.

    The Best Bars

    Given a drinks package, and week to try it out, we made it to many of the bars….maybe all of them. As all the bars served the same menu, this is all based on the bar, not the beverages. These were our favourites:

    • Edge Cocktail Bar – This bar seemed almost tucked in the corner of the Infinity Atrium but it is a very handy to grab a walking drink. Some people were propping up the bar here every time we passed but it was a little dark to make it our best spot.
    • Masters of the Sea Pub – Our most frequented bar. This nautical themed pub area was a great spot for watching the Galleria Grandiosa shows and parties. The air con inside was a bit chilly so we grabbed a table by the railing and settled in. The bar staff were so funny and friendly and even got us to try flaming shooters one night which was madness.
    • TV & Studio Bar – Across from Masters of the Sea but enclosed, TV & Studio Bar was the place to be late at night. They played host to karaoke a lot but we didn’t fancy joining in so we only popped in here for a quick one. If you love to sing, or to see other people attempt to sing, then its worth an evening.
    • Champagne Bar – This was a nice, bright bar at the top of the Infinity Atrium. It had nice views to the outside and who doesn’t love a champagne!? Despite not being on our package, we had to buy a glass here and indulge. I would say that the carpet stopped it from being truly classy but that is just a nitpick.
    • Sky Lounge – Our best spot for a late night cocktail, or an early morning coffee was th Sky Lounge. This was above the buffet and gym, and had a nice view across the pool deck and wrapping around the sides to the horizon. The mid-century colour scheme seemed a little dull and I thought it a little strange that there were sofas with their backs to the window, not allowing you the view, but the staff here were great.
    • Horizons Bar – The bar that overlooks the back of the ship isn’t much itself, but it is surrounded by chairs and tables with lovely outside views of the wake.
    Masters of the Sea
    Infinity Atrium
    Champagne Bar
    Horizons Bar
    Sky Lounge
    The Attic Club

    We made our way here one night and it was a weird atmosphere. The club was split across two rooms dark, shiny rooms. One was full of the young people (teenagers) and one with older cruisers (40s-50s). We felt like we had slightly slipped through the cracks and didn’t fit in anywhere. The bar was really crowded and people were happily pushing in front of others and pushing in general. It all felt a bit hostile and awkward so we danced for about half an hour before deciding to go back to a nice quiet cocktail bar. We found out later that the teens club was held in one of the rooms so it makes total sense that they all gravitated there in the evening.

    Sportplex and the Kid’s Areas

    Let’s be real, we didn’t use most of these. We don’t have kids to use the kid’s clubs so can’t comment on them. However, I love that this is an option, allowing their parents some true relaxation time.

    Being a big kind, I was interested in the games arcade but sad to see this cost extra. I was also tempted to use the ropes course, including the Himalayan Bridge and the Aquaforest Waterpark. Sadly,. due to winds and chilly temperatures, these were closed. I saw someone up on the ropes on our first day but thuoght “I have a whole week to try it”…and it was never open again.

    The Aurea Spa

    One of our planned excursions was a day trip from Civitavecchia port to Rome. Due to bad weather delaying our docking by three hours, there wasn’t time to take the tour. The very kind tours people and travel agent gave us our onboard credit back and so we used it for a spa session instead. There was enough for one massage and we decided Caz needed it more than me so she head off for a massage, leaving me to explore the thermal suite. I had a blast in the hot tub. The rocking of the ship sloshed it around and I was giggling away when she came back thoroughly blissed out. Sounds like it was perfect, a great antidote for the locked-in feeling we had after missing out on the excursion.

    The spa was spotlessly clean, with big lockers and shower facilities. Inside the Thermal Area was an array of rooms offering a sauna, a steam room, salt relaxation, warm relaxation, an ice room and hot tubs. We left after three hours so happy.

    The Pools

    There were three pools available for use (with another in the separate MSC Yacht Club area.) As well as this, there were three whirlpools too. As the weather wasn’t ideal, we had these to ourselves. We head up for one sunrise and it felt pretty special watching the sky change as the warm water bubbled our sleep away.

    The outdoor pool is on deck 16 is the Atmospheric Pool. This is split into two and was definitely in “winter mode”. Usually, the water is a little higher so the first row of sunbeds is actually in the water. Plus, the sculptures in between the two halves are fountains. Clearly, It was too cold to use the pool in January but I did it for the ‘gram! It was a lovely large pool and I think there was plenty of room around to relaxation. At one end was a huge screen. On our sailing just had ship messages etc but I think it is used for movies in warmer weather. I’d love to watch a film from the water. At the other end was the Atmosphere Bar. In summer, this may have been our go to but it was shut for much of the time and too cold to be a nice spot.

    It is worth noting that the covered seating was very popular with smokers as it reduced the win greatly so if you are hanging by the pool and don’t like smoke, try and work out where the wind will whip it away from you.

    There is a small infinity pool at the back of the ship, called The Horizon Pool. I think this could be a nice place to take in the sailaway but the statue here, aimed at the kiddos, took away from the class of the spot.

    The Safari Pool is inside and also has some more whirlpools. This pool is quite small and crowded with children in the day but does have the advantage of not being in the chilly air if it’s winter. The whirlpools were packed with groups but I guess this wouldn’t be the case if there were more outdoor areas accessible.

    The Gym

    Oh come on, you don’t think I actually used the gym!? No, but honestly, it was well-equipped and had a great view of the pool. There were plenty of people in there making use of the facilities…I just wasn’t one of them.

    Final Thoughts for this MSC Grandiosa Review

    My mood and opinion when I originally sat to write this MSC Grandiosa review were obviously coloured by the bad weather we experienced. Looking back, it was actually a great week.

    Pros

    • Being with a friend was a lot of fun. She is both silly when I am feeling wound up (in the best way) and the most amazing cheerleader.
    • The ship was big enough that everyone could find their own space to relax or have fun. 19 decks really spreads people out.
    • We got to see beautiful places which Europe is just loaded with!

    Cons

    • I do hate the drinks package nonsense on cruise lines. It would be much nicer to just have reasonably priced drinks available for when the desire strikes rather than paying out a big whack at once. This leads to feeling like you have to make the most of it every single day of the cruise. This is hard-going when you need to have six drinks a day to break even!
    • I think the food and evening shows could do with some improvement as they’re the weakest part of the experience.
    • I think that cruising the Med has its advantages, if you are short on time then you can see a lot but I found the clock-watching a little stressful. I think I could get used to it but it might take a few more cruises!

    Overall, I really enjoyed the time I spent on MSC Grandiosa and I would love to see some of their newer ships…or just sail in the warmth as I think it would be a very different experience.

    Rosie xx

  • Romeo and Juliet’s Sunset Food & Wine Walking Tour in Verona

    Romeo and Juliet’s Sunset Food & Wine Walking Tour in Verona

    Italy is a world of culinary wonders. It is only by exploring the country and discovering the local cuisine that you realise it is still a series of states linked by a common country name. In Verona, joining a food tour is the perfect way to learn about the best of Veronese food and wine. After some research, I decided to join Romeo and Juliet’s Sunset Food & Wine Walking Tour in Verona. Read on for our full review.

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    Visiting Verona? Check out more things to do with our one day in Verona itinerary

    Romeo and Juliet’s Sunset Food & Wine Walking Tour

    The group slowly assembled by the beautiful Portoni della Brà. This ancient gateway is part of the old wall that runs to the fort. We met our lovely guide, Alessia, who escorted the group for the afternoon and taught us all she could about the city and its culinary traditions.

    Cafe Pasticceria Barini

    A Veronese breakfast involves one very small, very strong coffee and some sort of pastry. Make your first stop Cafe Bar Pasticceria Barini. The stone counters and wooden walls are beautifully mid-century and have a perfect coffee shop vibe. This is not the spot to sit and savour a long latte (well, you could but we have places to be). Instead, pick up your €1 coffee, dump in some sugar if necessary, and perch on the edge as you slam it down. You could also try a risini, a pastry stuffed with sweet rice. It is a carb-on-carb bomb that, combined with an espresso, is just the energy boost you need for a long day of sightseeing.

    Strolling the Stradas

    From Piazza Bra, we took a walk past the stunning Roman amphitheatre, now used for concerts and opera, and up Via Mazzini, the most popular shopping street in Verona. (Shame, I had to trek out to the far less attractive mall to go to Primark the following day). Alessia taught us all about the layers of history in the architecture all around us as we walked. Then we topped at an unusual little courtyard with a water well in the centre. She shared the love story of Corrado and Isabella, Verona’s original star-crossed lovers. As with the more famous Romeo & Juliet, this was a tragic tale and both lovers ended up jumping into the well. Is it dark tourism if it is romantic?

    Locandina Cappello

    It is weird to say that we stopped for lunch on a food tour but this was a nice restaurant and we had a good sit down here so it felt like stopping for lunch. The first thing to appear was a bottle of crisp white wine. Soave is produced around Verona and has a zingy, fresh flavour. It is light and perfect for the nibbles that came next. The small bites served in Verona are similar to Venetian Cicchetti but are a little smaller. Plus, the bread seemed much softer but that may have just been the style at Locandina Cappello. After the cold starters, we were treated to glorious little oven dishes full of polenta. It was creamy and topped with salty, mature Monte Veronese cheese. It was divine!

    Enoteca Baraldi

    Our next stop gave us the chance to learn more about local wine, and this one is world-famous. Amarone della Valpolicella is a deliciously dry red wine that comes from the hills around Verona. There were 3 to taste and despite not being a massive red fan, I actually really enjoyed the tasting. I think it is because I would never normally opt to give these a go, I mean Amarone means “great bitter” and I have quite a sweet tooth when it comes to wine. It doesn’t have a lot of acid though so it was quite rich and went very well with the food that we were offered.

    Charcuterie platters of cured meats and cheeses appeared. We had strong, hard Parmigiano Reggiano which is made nearby. i loved how the acidity of the cheese balanced out the wine beautifully. The salami was exactly the kind I enjoy most. It looks innocent but when you bite into it a burst of oil sends flavour running across your tongue. We were also presented with great slabs of focaccia from the Focacciaria a few doors down, which again were absolutely heavy with delicious olive oil, chunky salt, beautiful olives, or tomato. I don’t know if bread that is already that packed full of ingredients can soak up a glass of Amarone, but I enjoyed letting it try.

    Colle San Pietro

    The Castillo San Pietro Funicular zips up 159m to the top of 55m high Colle San Pietro (also called Monte Gallo) in a little over a minute. The group piled in with the tickets that were included in the tour. At the top, we had a reserved table at Cafe Bar Re Teodorico which has a super view of the city.

    Spritz O’Clock

    …more commonly known in Italy as Aperitivo. We were offered either an Aperol or Negroni spritz (or a beer if that wasn’t your poison). Spitz is a big deal in North-East Italy. Every day, people grab this yummy blend of liqueur, prosecco and soda water before dinner. The idea of the spritz originated in Venice but being such an enjoyable idea, it spread from here across Italy.

    After two weeks of rain, it felt just fabulous to be sitting, chatting with new tour buddies in the sun, cradling a cocktail. This is where Alessia left us and pair by pair, the group split off to go for dinner (how?) or to watch the sunset.

    Final Thoughts on my Food & Wine Walking Tour in Verona

    I love a food tour. Trying all sorts of food from the local region is a total treat and I always learn so much. Romeo and Juliet’s Food & Wine Walking Tour in Verona was the perfect way to start my solo city break. It allowed me to get my bearings in Verona and discover yummy things to try more of during the trip.

    …And yes, I do mean Soave.

    Rosie xx

  • Romance & Ruins – How to Spend One Day in Verona, Italy

    Romance & Ruins – How to Spend One Day in Verona, Italy

    Verona is often found on the list of hidden European gems, which is nuts! Verona’s compact centre is chock full of interesting ancient sites, excellent Italian eateries, and layers of history. If you only have a day to Verona, you will still be able to soak up oodles of charm as you explore the cobblestoned Veronese streets. This is your perfect way to spend one day in Verona, Italy.

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    The Perfect Way to Spend One Day in Verona, Italy

    Cafe Pasticceria Barini

    A traditional Veronese breakfast involves one very small, very strong coffee and some sort of pastry. Make your first stop Cafe Bar Pasticceria Barini. The stone counters and wooden walls are beautifully mid-century and have a perfect coffee shop vibe. This is not the spot to sit and savour a long latte (well, you could but we have places to be). Instead, pick up your €1 caffe, dump in some sugar if necessary, and perch on the edge as you slam it down. You could also try a risini, a pastry stuffed with sweet rice. Its a carb-on-carb bomb that, combined with an espresso, is just the energy boost you need for a long day of sightseeing.

    I Portoni della Brà and Piazza Bra

    Portoni della Brà, a historic gateway in the heart of Verona, leads you through to Piazza Bra, the largest square in the city. The battlement-style top gives a hint to its previous life (it was built in 1480) as a link between Castelvecchio and the Citadel.

    Surrounded by the renowned Verona Arena, Gran Guardia, and Palazzo Barbieri, Piazza Brà is the centre of life when the sun is out. One end is lined with restaurants (some local…and a Hard Rock Cafe). You’ll street performers, friends strolling through and people running past to catch the busses that run past the bottom end of the square. From here, for a good few hour, you are going to be on car free streets which is so nice and relaxing.

    Arena di Verona

    Rome’s Colosseum may get all the press but Verona’s Arena is more complete. has been wonderfully restored and has a magnificent opera festival every summer. Arena di Verona dates back to 30 A.D. so plan your trip right and you could be there for the 2000th anniversary. The added seating and modernisations are sympathetic to the bones of the building so whether you visit in the morning as a tourist as we suggest, or you come to a concert in the evening, you will get a real sense of the millennia of entertainment performed here.

    These days there will only be 22,000 spectators inside but it used to fit up to 30,000. Imagine the whole place baying for blood. From June to September there is a large opera festival and it is renowned as being one of the best in the world. If you do attend, get one of the cheaper marble seats but remember to bring a cushion as those three hours performances can be murder on the bottom!

    We suggest you start your day here and it’s best to have your tickets booked in advance. You can find tickets HERE and pick your entry time as the first slot of the day.

    Via Mazzini & Corso Porta Basari

    When you leave the Arena, turn right up the pedestrianised shopping street Via Mazzini. This popular retail thoroughfare plays host to designer brands and high-street favourites alike. You could do a little shopping (I needed to buy some tights here when I ripped mine) but that is not the main reason to traverse this street. A couple of blocks up is the United Colors of Benetton shop. Head inside and down the stairs to menswear for a little slice of Roman history. Down here, you will see the floor of a 1st-century villa, with its 2nd-century renovated floor tiles.

    Take a left at Via Valerio Catullo until you reach Corso Porta Basari. Here you can see another one of the city’s gates. This white limestone Roman gate was renovated in  265 AD and that is the facade you see today. From here, head away from the gate, all the way until the passageway emerges into Piazza delle Erbe.

    Piazza delle Erbe & Piazza dei Signori

    If shopping in a market is more your speed then you’ll love Piazza delle Erbe. In the centre of this buzzy square are market stalls selling everything from backpacker trousers to elegant silk handkerchiefs, to fresh flowers and overpriced soft drinks. Around the edge of the square are plenty of restaurants and cafe bars serving Aperols to those who want to enjoy some people-watching. The centerpiece of the square is the ornate Madonna Verona Fountain but don’t miss the other statue of note. Italian poet Berto Barbarani stands watch over the square. Barbarani was a local boy and wrote often in the Veronese dialect about the city and its people.

    Pass through the arch with the whalebone. No, nobody knows why it is there but it may have been there for over 500 years. Take in the gorgeous palatial architecture of Piazza dei Signori with its arches and loggias. The statue in the centre of the square, placed here in the 1860s, is of the poet Dante (of inferno fame).

    Torre Dei Lamberti

    Torre dei Lamberti, dates back to the 12th century, stands at 84m and is still Verona’s tallest building. The clock tower can be climbed but involves 368 steps and a whole lot of puff. For this reason, most people opt to take the lift which is considerably easier. The views from here are beautiful. You can see across the roofs of Verona and into the countryside beyond. There are two huge bells in the tower. The first, Marangona was rung to alert the city to fires and the hours of the day. The other, larger, Rengo was rung to bring together the city council or to prepare the city for battle. It’s unlikely there will be an imminent attack during your visit but you could take earplugs if you’re nervous!

    Locandina Cappello

    This is a nice spot for a light lunch and it is right opposite our next stop. Unusually for restaurants right on the tourist trail, it has fresh, tasty food. For a nice snacky lunch, order from the selection of tartines and crostinis. These little canapes are similar to Venetian Cicchetti but are a little smaller. Most are one or two bites but packed with simple, delicious flavours. Of course, they do a huge selection of other big dishes including yummy pasta, meat-laden mains and actually, a fair amount of great seafood. (See if you can find something with a side of their perfect cheesy polenta because it is comfort food perfection.

    Tartine selection

    Juliet’s House

    Varona will be inextricably linked to Shakespeare in many a mind, and Romeo & Juliet in particular. Although it is mostly a fictional story, it seems to come from a grain of truth and as it is wont to do, myth will blend with fact and over time become one. There are a few spots in Verona that will forever be “the actual Juliet’s house” and “the actual Romeo’s house”. That is why the Capulet’s mansion is a super popular sight in Verona. Now, this may not be Juliet’s actual balcony…but it is because we have all said so.

    Head into the courtyard and pay a quick visit to the Juliet statue. People like to rub her right breast for good luck in love so don’t be alarmed that she seems to be getting a good old group. They have actually had to replace the statue as it was getting so damaged on one side. There is also a wall covered in love locks (at least they aren’t weighing a bridge down) and a postbox so you can write to Juliet for some romantic advice.

    You can see the famous balcony from below and stand upon it. You probably won’t have time for a full soliloquy as there is normally quite a large queue behind you. Upstairs in the Capulet mansion, you’ll see some gorgeous original wall designs and some more Romeo and Juliet paraphernalia.

    We highly recommend getting your tickets in advance online. Even with the Verona Card, you need to book a time slot to visit.

    Church of Sant’Anastasia

    The Church of Sant’Anastasia is a Gothic church that dates back to the 13th century. It took about 150 years to build and it still stands as the largest church in Verona. On entering, you will surely be impressed by the soaring vaulted ceilings. The church’s highlight has to be the incredible Pisanello altarpiece, a masterpiece of Renaissance art. However, there are some other super details to look out for. The hunchback font bearers are reminiscent of Pompeii victims and the side chapels have beautiful altars and frescoes to explore.

    Ponte Pietra

    Make your way block over to the river and head around until you reach Ponte Pietra, the Stone Bridge. Unbeliably the bridge has been standing here since 100 BC. Well, it had been here for 2000 years until WWII when it was blown apart by retreating German troops. Thankfully, it was rebuilt using the original materials.

    Sometimes, in summer, you will see people floating beneath it in a popular pastime. Rafting along the Adige has become a very popular way to have fun and see the city.

    Colle San Pietro

    The Castillo San Pietro Funicular takes just over one minute to run 159m to the top of 55m high Colle San Pietro (also called Monte Gallo). At Just €2 for a return trip, it’s a great way to enjoy lovely views on the way up and saves the walk. Yes, it is possible to walk, but you’ve had a long day so enjoy the ride. At the top is cafe bar Re Teodorico, a nice spot to stop and sip an Aperol or Negroni spritz, especially if it is a warm evening. The view is great but the service isn’t so order at the bar and grab any seats you can.

    From here, make your way to Castel San Pietro and the lovely big terrace outside it. This is the best spot in Verona to catch the sunset. You get a stunning view across the spires and turrets, and the Adige River, snaking towards the setting sun. This is a very popular place so arriving early is vital if you want a prime spot.

    Peperino Verona for Dinner

    From the top of the hill, you are going to head all the way back to Piazza Bra. This is because the atmosphere here is lovely and lively in the evening. Plus, if you need to get a bus anywhere, this is where you need to be. There are lots of places with tables on the square but just one road away is a nice spot with some of the best pizza in Verona. The pizza menu here is large and full of unusual varieties that celebrate local flavours on either a Roman or Neapolitan base. Below is my mortadella and pistachio pizza but given the chance, I’d have ordered several more to try as well. (They have gluten-free pizzas too).

    It can be busy; book a table for 40 minutes after sunset to give yourself a nice stroll back here. It is also worth remembering that this is a big place so service can be slow. Order a few drinks and make it a leisurely dinner.

    Osteria La Mandorla for a Drink

    If you are still going and fancy a nightcap, then this casual hole-in-the-wall bar is a perfect way to end the night. Osteria La Mandorla is not about fancy cocktails or lines of shots, just delicious, cheap local Suave wine or cold beer with a fun atmosphere. There may not be a seat as it is quite small and very popular but standing and having a beverage outside in the summer night, with locals, is exceedingly pleasurable.

    The Verona Card

    Throughout this one day in Verona itinerary, we plan to duck in and out of chargable attractions. If you are planning to follow this itinerary, then it might be worth getting a Verona Card. There are two types available: the 24-hour card for €20 or the 48-hour card for €25. Included in our itinerary were the following spots, all free on the card.

    • Juliet’s House (free with the card but you must book a time slot)
    • Arena di Verona.
    • Church of Sant’Anastasia.
    • Lamberti Tower.

    If paid separately, they would cost about €17 but the card also includes public transport for the full 24/48 hours so it is great if you are arriving by train (the old town is not close to the train station). Plus, if you have more than one day in Verona then you get another whole day’s worth of entrance to attractions for not much more. (If you are sticking around, be sure to check out the Castelvecchio Museum included with the card).

    Final Thoughts on The Perfect Way to Spend One Day in Verona, Italy

    If you only have one day in Verona then this is the best blend of historical sights, culinary treats and beautiful views. If you can wangle two days in Verona then it is definitely worth visiting some more of the churches, spending some time in Castelvecchio and considering a food tour for a chance to try lots more local dishes. This overlooked little Italian gem, nestled in a lovely loop of the Adige River is worth a visit, even if you only have one day. Romeo and Juliet would be heartbroken if you didn’t.

    Rosie xx

  • A Bed in Venice – A&O Venice Mestre Review

    A Bed in Venice – A&O Venice Mestre Review

    Venice is is known as the city of love but did you know that it ialso an awesome place to visit as a flashpacker? It is possible to find budget food, budget Aperol Spritz and even budget accommodation if you know where to look. On my Interrail trip through Europe, I stayed for two nights at the A&O Venice Mestre. Read on for my full A&O Venice Mestre review.

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    Check out our Venice content here!

    A&O Venice Mestre Location

    A&O Venice Mestre is located on the mainland of Italy rather than the islands. It is about 8 minutes walk from the Venice Mestre station making it very convenient for those arriving by train and those heading into Venice proper. The train takes 11 minutes to reach Saint Lucia.

    My top tip is to stay on the side of the road of the train station as you walk towards the hostel or you will get a bit stuck and have to go round the long way. (Yes, I learned that the hard way whilst it was raining and I was carrying a backpack).

    A Look Around A&O Venice Mestre

    Ground Floor Facilities

    The lobby of A&O Venice Mestre is large and full of facilities. As you walk in, you will see the reception desk in front of you, full of friendly and knowledgeable staff, If there is a long queue, you are too tired to fancy a chat or everyone has disappeared there were six or seven check-in machines. Here, you pop in your booking details and it will pop out your room key.

    To the left is a tour desk which I didn’t see many people using but I guess everyone in were savvy travellers. I bet they get more business from families and traditional tourists. At the end of the room, past a series of seating options is a long, large table which had plenty of people on laptops tapping away. Wifi is fast and free so it is a good spot for nomadic working. Then, behind them were a couple of vending machines. One had loads of snacks and other, all kinds of items that you might need, sanitiser, condoms, shampoo and Sprite.

    Around to the right is the bar which does a reasonably priced selection of boozy treats, ice cream and snackettes. Their Aperol Spritz was pretty good and much cheaper than those in town. They have a spinning wheel on which you can try your luck. You might end up getting a drink from a friend, or buying a round for everyone else. There is a large table with tall chairs and plenty of plugs doe working over a pint. A little further over you will find the karaoke area. I walked through one evening, expecting to see an empty and slightly forlorn spot but there were around ten people having a proper giggle here. Finally, tucked in the corner is the kids’ area with puzzles, books and toys. This hostel is for everyone!

    Laundry Room & Lockers

    Through a door, you will find a big bank of chargeable luggage lockers. These are very handy if you want to maximise your last day in Venice. You can pop your luggage in here, go into the city and then rush back to grab the bag in time for your flight/night train.

    A little further around the corridor is the kitchen (more on this in the dining section) and a laundry room. I used the washing machine which was really easy and affordable. You didn’t have to buy separate detergent, get powder everywhere or gamble on where to put the soap as it was all automatic. The dryers were broken during my visit but luckily, my private room meant I could just hang everything around my room to dry.

    My Room

    I was lucky enough to have a private room all to myself, number 204. It was a nice, large room with loads of storage room. I had a little hanging rail (so handy for my wet washing), three large cubbies (my backpack and day pack both fit in one easily) and even a shoe rack with full length mirror. The window let in some light but on a gloomy day, not all that much.

    It was unseasonably chilly during my mid-May visit so I was thrilled to see that I had control over my heating…I definitely thought I would be using the AC to cool off but hey ho.

    My Bed

    The double bed was two singles pushed together and set in the European way (with two duvets). This was perfectly fine for me as a solo gal, and would have been OK for Mr Fluskey too. However, it is worth bearing in mind if you wouldn’t like this arrangement with a partner.

    My Bathroom

    The bathroom was very reasonably sized, as evidenced by the fact there was room for a bidet. Would you believe, this is the only hostel I have ever been in with a bidet?! The shower was fine but a little tight. I very much appreciated the towel rack which was an exceedingly handy spot for my freshly laundered undies. The soap and body wash provided were quite plain (not particularly scented) and I had seen the same products in a few hostels during the trip. I was happy to see a hairdryer provided in the bathroom. It is more hotely than hostelly in some aspects. THIS is flashpacking!

    Dining

    Breakfast

    Breakfast was taken with a token. There was a big buffet with several stations dotted around the room. There was lots of bread, sliced meats and cheese galore and fresh fruit. Plenty of people were pocketing apples and oranges for lunch…I did too obviously. Then there were a couple of kinds of yoghurt, several cereals, warm eggs and cold salad. You could have a three course meal, an excellent start to the day. The drinks selection was very good with lots of tea, two cappuccino machines and a funky juice dispenser with four fruit juice, still and sparkling water.

    Was I obsessed with the little pancake machine that churned out the cutest little fluffy pancakes automatically? You bet I was! I got a seat near it so I didn’t miss a single dollop of batter or the gentle plop of each pancake on the plate. It was mesmerising.

    The Kitchen

    The kitchen seemed quite small for the size of the hostel if I am honest. When I arrived on day one, there were only two hobs and not an awful lot of pots, pans and cutlery. There was a kettle and big fridge but no oven or microwave. On day two, a refurbishment took place and they added two more hob set ups. Still, it was quite disappointing…I guess everyone eats out in Venice (which makes sense).

    Like the classy girl I am, when I checked in I was seriously hungry so I made instant ramen noodles on the hob. Just as I was serving up this highly nutritious dish, someone else came into the kitchen. I could have died of shame. Here’s me in one of the best foodie countries in the world and I am scoffing a knockoff packet of Super Noodles. I should be ashamed.

    Final Thoughts about A&O Venice Mestre

    A&O Venice Mestre is a very well-run hostel which really offers budget travellers in Venice a hub. The evening activities mean you really can buy a bottle of bubbly for cheap and have a fun time with like-minded travellers…a rarity in so many hostels these days. Transactions with the staff were always quick and smiley. Everything was user-friendly around the hostel so I could just get on with making lunch and doing laundry without bugging anyone else. I would say that if you are on a budget, travelling solo or with a group of friends then this is an excellent option but it is not the place to come for a romantic weekend with a partner. Overall, it is a brilliant place to stay for a fun trip to Venice.

    Rosie xx

  • Amazing Arancini & Wonderful Wine – Palermo Street Food Review

    Amazing Arancini & Wonderful Wine – Palermo Street Food Review

    Going out for a Sicilian isn’t something that we can all say we’ve done. Sure there might be the odd Sicilian dish on the menu of your local Italian but how would you know? In a bid to educate ourselves about this distinctive and delicious cuisine, my friend and I took a tour with Palermo Street Food during a Mediterranean cruise stop. Read on for our full Palermo Street Food review.

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    Pretty Palermo

    With about an hour before our tour, we dashed off to see some of Palermo. Our first stop was Quattro Canti (the four corners). This octagonal crossroads has four towering facades covered in beautiful sculptures. Just around the corner is the Fountain of Shame. I mean, if I had a figure like these statues, I wouldn’t be ashamed…but they are all distinctly naked. The risqué carvings rather upset the churches nearby, and the Catholic populous, hence the name.

    Finally, we had just enough time to take in the gorgeous interiors and stunning views of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio. This is one of Palermo’s gorgeous churches (there is an abundance). The stories along the walls and soaring dome are both stunning and there was more to see in the convent than we were expecting. They had very tasty-looking cannoli but knowing we were about to embark on a food tour, we decided to skip them.

    It was an hour very well spent

    Meeting Francesca

    When we got back to the Opera House, we messaged Francesca and she came to find us. She was a delight! I have taken a fair few food tours but rarely have I had a guide that is such an expert. She combined a wonderful demeanour with a wealth of knowledge about Palermo, food and wine but there were some flashes of honesty that we loved her for!

    Francesca Lombardo is such an advocate for Sicilian cuisine that she has actually written a book all about it. She has spent the last two years training to be a sommelier and boy, did her passion shine through.

    Mercato del Capo

    Mercato del Capo (so named for the streets it sits on) is one of the most important markets in Palermo. It has an array of fresh food from around the island and the waters surrounding it. People shopping, meeting and eating throng the street and call out to each other as they zip past. It was so lovely to see a market in such good health.

    Juicy Fruit

    We started our journey at a juice stall selling both fresh orange and fresh pomegranate juice at €1 a pop. We an orange juice and it was both intense and delicious. I think we forget how different orange juice at the supermarket is from the zingy hit of the freshly squeezed variety.

    Carolyn had never had pomegranate juice (and I’d never had it at such a good price) so we got one of these too. The burst of red fruit followed by the dry tannin was divine and begged to be made into a cocktail!

    Strolling the Stalls

    We began to walk through the market’s main thoroughfare, gazing longingly at packets of olives steeped in oil and cured meats. We were not allowed to take any food or drink whatsoever back onto our ship so no foodie souvenirs for us! It was a real shame and I look forward to having a delicious hotel room picnic next time I visit.

    One shop had small tubs of capers outside. Alongside the small little caper berries I am used to was a tub of caper flowers. The shopkeeper kindly let me try one and it was a salty, glorious thing. I’d happily chomp through a bucket of them with a glass or two of wine.

    Glorious Groceries

    The fresh produce was abundant and looked so yummy. There were some really fun things; graffiti aubergine and bright green cauliflower, as well as huge artichokes, stalks and all. It was a chef’s dream. Apparently, there is purple cauliflower too which gets its colour from the minerals in the soil around Mt Etna….so cool. We stopped to pick up some fruit for dessert and chose some Sicilian satsumas as well as a strange item related to a persimmon. More on that later.

    Street Eats

    Palermo is listed as one of the top destinations in Europe for street food and in Mercato del Capo, the queen of street food is Ariana Dainotti. She won a TV competition (a little like four in a bed or come dine with me) so her bonafide is top notch!

    Francesca helped us pick out some things to try. It was a little tricky as Carolyn is gluten free and this reduced the options a bit for her. However, this meant we could pick a few more things to try than normal, so I was happy.

    The Menu

    • Arancini
    • Chickpea Fritters
    • Potato Croquettes
    • Caponata
    • Seafood Salad
    • Thistle
    • Sicilian Pizza
    • Fresh Fruit

    There was so much to try and I was stuffed by the end!

    Arancini

    Arancini in Sicily is nothing like the stodgy balls with a tomato dipping sauce that you’ve tried elsewhere. Inside these giant breaded orbs was the most luscious saffron-infused risotto rice. Then, one centre was with stuffed creamy cheese and salty ham and the other with a classic meat ragu. They were heavenly! Arancini were originally created to give the citizens of Sicily a way to take their delicious risotto lunches to work with them. They are practical and truly scrumptious…better than a jam sandwich for sure.

    Panelle

    Panelle are fritters made of chickpea flour and flavoured with parsley and a little lemon. The recipe dates back to the Arab occupation of the island. The gram flour is pleasingly gluten-free so I didn’t have any as I was demolishing plenty that my travel buddy couldn’t have, I asked her for a review.

    “The chickpea fritters were a delightful distraction from the rest of the gluten-y glory i was trying not to lust after”.

    Carolyn
    Cazzilli

    I have eaten many a potato croquette in my time. In fact, we tried some rather spectacular varieties in Lisbon. However, the interior of these Sicilian croquettes were by far the smoothest I had ever had. The potato was plain with a little salt as seasoning but the breadcrumb crust was very light and the texture was perfection. It is possible to get croquettes with cheese, garlic and other flavours but even these simple bites were lovely and luscious.

    Caponata

    Roasted aubergine, sweet tomato, savoury olives, salty capers and celery all come together to make the most addictive salad, caponata. This can be served hot as a side dish or cold as a salad. It is such a wonderful blend of punchy tastes and as it is gluten-free, here’s my friend once again to wax lyrical about her favourite dish.

    “The caponata, an oily medley of Sicilian flavours dominated by slick, smoky aubergine was good enough to bathe in.”

    Carolyn

    Frutti de Mari

    Ah, seafood salad is my happy place, ssquid, mussels, prawns and whatever else was cooked fresh earlier are all given a zing with vinegar and salthered with lovely olive oil. Honestly, I have eaten full buffet plates of seafood salad in the past and I chomped every morsel of this version. The seafood was tender and the veggies lovely and crunchy. Molto Delizioso!

    Cardoon

    Sicily is one of the only places in the world that eats thistles. Here it is battered and deep-fried. Apparently, they are usually very bitter but the cardoon we tried wasn’t bad at all. I thought there was too much batter but it is so thick to counteract the normally bitter stalk. I really liked it and it’s fibrous texture. It reminded me of savoury rhubarb.

    Sfincione

    Sicilian Pizza is a very different beast from the flame-licked, thin-crust pizzas of Naples. It is almost so different that it could be considered a totally different foodstuff. Sfincione is a thick, pillowy dough topped with a powerful tomato sauce. Sometimes it has cheese but it’s not a guarantee. The recipe was created by a local convent where the nuns wanted to make something a little different to normal bread. It was then eaten for special events like Christmas or engagements. The most famous variety is possibly the original, where the bread was topped with fresh cheese called tuma or ricotta but you are more likely to come across the tomato version.

    A Healthy Dessert

    We munched on our Sicilian satsumas. The tart but sweet juice was intense and a world away from the little easy peelers in UK supermarkets. Apparently, we used to have shops stuffed full of Sicilian citrus but when they discovered that other varieties could be pip-free the buyers switched loyalties.

    Next, we were treated to our persimmon adjacent treat. Persimmon in Italian is kaki mela but it seems this wasn’t a normal kaki mela. This persimmon had been cross-pollinated with an apple so it is easier to eat on the go. Francesca spelt it and handed over the slippery flesh. It tasted a little like a sweet melon and left us happy sticky. I am not sure this fruity experiment has left the Sicilian shores yet but I would snap it up if I saw it again!

    Wine Time

    What else would you do with a sommelier other than taste some wine? Enoteca del Capo is Francesca’s favourite spot to stop and enjoy some wine along with a little more street food. Well, we were so full so we opted to skip any more snacks lest we bust open our trousers!

    Sicily has an interesting wine history. There has been wine production here for 6000 years or so but its reputation for making wine internationally is still quite young. Sicily was lucky enough to survive the Great Wine Blight that wiped out the majority of France’s vines and threatened to destroy the industry. For many years it was famous for sweet marsala wine and for producing vast amounts of grapes that bulked up more famous European wine regions or graced Asian tables. When the 1980s hit and the world started turning banks into wine bars, interest in Sicilian wines was reignited and a few dedicated producers brought some real bangers to the table.

    The Whites

    We tried two white wines.

    The white from Terrazzo dul Vulcano was a lovely, light wine (in both colour and flavour). Perfect for sipping on a summer’s evening with friends. It was aged in a steel tank and wasn’t that complex but we could have demolished the bottle very happily. The first thing we noticed was the minerality that the volcanic soil infused into the wine so maybe we need a view of Etna to complete that evening.

    The Grillo from Mandrarossa was a much more complex wine and much more yellow in colour. The citrus and peach notes along with the minerals gave it a long finish. If you are buying a Grillo, check out where the winery is. The closer to the sea, the more saline notes you’ll get and the more aged it becomes, the zingier the fruity elements will become.

    The Reds

    I am waiting to grow up and appreciate an adult red wine but in the name of fairness, we tried two reds as well.

    We started with Sicily’s most famous wine, Nero d’Avola. It is the most planted grape and makes a deep, brambly wine with a bit of acidity. I don’t adore a tannin or an oaky red so it was too much for me. However, it was right up Carolyn’s street! The wine we tried was by Bruno Fina, one of those 1980s entrepreneurs that really brought Sicily’s wines onto the world wine stage.

    We then moved on to a lighter red that I enjoyed a little more, Perricone. It was another Fina wine but this wine was only aged in steel. I liked the spices and cherry flavours of the wine and the lighter tannins so it was nice to end on one I enjoyed.

    Either way, it was wonderful to learn about Sicily’s wine with someone who is really in the know.

    Farewell Francesca

    It’s rare that you leave a food tour feeling like you’ve gotten to know the guide very well. However, seeing the passion and openness of Francesca, we felt a bit sad saying goodbye to her. She pointed us in the right direction to see some shops and the Teatro Politeama. We had a wander and then dashed back to the ship, ready to sail back to Barcelona.

    Final Thoughts for this Palermo Street Food Review

    Palermo Street Food is not your average food tour. It doesn’t feel at all like a factory line for hungry tourists and more like someone you know taking you out for a fun dinner in a place you’ve never been before. I couldn’t recommend it highly enough and i am off to find a Sicilian spot in London to try and share the flavours with everyone else!

    Rosie xx

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