Tag: tour

  • French Feasting on the Left Bank – An Eating Europe Review

    French Feasting on the Left Bank – An Eating Europe Review

    Paris is a city of foodies. Parisians are passionate about great food and preserving tradition whilst also exploring new culinary horizons. That is why it is always a shame when tourists visit the city and leave with memories of mediocre meals, crap crepes and expensive eats. There is so much to try and so much of it is so good! We joined Eating Europe on the Left Bank to learn about where to go and what to seek out. Read on for our Eating Europe review.

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    Eating Europe in Paris

    Eating Europe has food tours all around Europe. They hire local guides with a love of food, their home town and of meeting new people. Not only are they going to feed you the good food, but you’ll have the chance to learn about the guides and local area…if you want. Our guide Rachel was British, and both a tour guide, and a food journalist that has been in Paris for three years.

    During our latest trip to Paris, we opted for the Eating Paris: Left Bank Food & Wine Tour as it was a nice blend of sweet and savoury, and who doesn’t love a glass or two of wine along the way? Plus, we had never been to the St Germain area of Paris so it would be a fun discovery too.

    Breakfast From the Bakery

    Every good day starts with pastry, the flakier and more buttery the better. Nowhere is this truer than in France. Admittedly, classics like the croissant actually came from Austria (why these pastries are often referred to as Viennoiserie) but I think France has perfected the balance of sweet and savoury to make them a firm favourite.

    We skipped breakfast so it was marvellous to hear that our first was a bakery. Here we learned about the first of our Parisian artisans. A family that has been in the bread business for generations and has several branches of their shop in Paris. Poilane are famous for their giant sourdough loaves which line the shelves on one side of this location. They are also the owners of the only wood-fired oven left in Paris and the smell of the wood is lush. However, the sourdough wasn’t our intended treat. Instead, we picked up some biscuits to have a little later and an apple pastry. It was perfectly crisp and full of proper pieces of baked apple. Heaven.

    Cheeeeeeeeese

    Yes, it is always worth the Wallace and Gromit quote.

    I don’t about you, but I always find the cheese counter a bit scary as I am probably a bit basic. I love a brilliant brie, can munch a mean manchego and chomp a cheddar or seven. However, when it comes to unusual French cheese, I am still learning. It might take a while considering there are officially around 1300 types!

    Walking into Barthelemy was more exciting than walking into a sweet shop for sure. The goat cheese section alone, with its pretty petit fois cheeses, was so exciting. Apparently, they age their cheeses in the cellar but that isn’t for public viewing. I wasn’t going to argue as Madam Nicole Barthelemy that has run this cheese emporium for decades is famously terrifying (until you get to know her).

    I wish we could have eaten our way around the whole shop, but I believe nibbling the edges of every cheese is frowned upon. Instead, we had a chat about fromage (cheese) in France. it is taken seriously and to earn an AOP you have to make your cheese in a certain way, and in a certain location. These are craftspeople of dairy and that is why the cheese in here costs a fair whack. Rachel picked up a few tasty options for later. Waiting for cheese is torture.

    Baguettes at the Boulangerie

    If you aren’t eating a baguette a day, are you even in Paris? However, what we get as baguettes in the U.K. are typically not the kind every Parisian is enjoying. The “Traditional” is a baguette in its purest form. In fact, it can only contain four basic ingredients and has to be a certain size and weight. If it has anything other than flour, watering, salt and yeast then it is not a Tradition. The white sticks we see most often are here referred to as “Classique” or “Ordinaires”.

    For our second boulangerie (bakery) of the tour, Thierry Marx, we grabbed some bread and popped in the our tote bag (such locals). We learned that for a shop to be considered a boulangerie it must make the majority of its money from the sale of bread. It must be so hard when everyone’s baguettes have to be the same!

    The Willy Wonka of Paris

    We have both eaten a fair amount of chocolate in our time. We have sampled the spectrum from cheap supermarket slabs to fine Swiss concoctions. However, I feel like I have been wasting my tastebuds after visiting Jacques Genin. The chocolates in this fancy boutique are on a whole other level.

    Jacques Genin, the chocolatier is incredibly meticulous in the selection of ingredients and then, with his stash of top quality flavours, he treats them with the greatest of care and skill. We had the chance to try his mint chocolates first and my eyes nearly popped out of my face with surprise. It was a burst of fresh mint, like thrusting your face into a plant. After years and years of peppermint oil and peppermint cream choccies, this was a revelation.

    Next, we sampled one of his mango and passionfruit caramels. I was a little apprehensive of “caramels” picturing either the kind that is penny-shaped and sticks your teeth together for half an hour (from that Christmas box), or the sickly sweet liquid centres from the other box’s golden barrel. Well, this was soft and easily chewed with a bright and intense tropical fruit burst.

    It is no wonder he supplies all the top hotels…now how can I get him to deliver to our house?

    A Seafood Sit Down

    With our collection of vittles, we made our way to a gorgeous deli/cafe/wine shop called Kaviari Deli. Already excited about our cheese, bread and biscuits, it was amazing to find out we were going o have some scrummy smoked salmon and caviar.

    Seafood is my happy place and smoked salmon in particular has always been a part of my family’s celebrations so it is linked to so much joy. Seated in our next stop, we were treated to a blini with four corners.

    • Gravalax – Mild and soft with a fennel and dill marinade. I could have eaten this whole fish.
    • Smoked salmon – Lightly smoked and served with a smooth creme fraiche. Can I have this all over a bagel please?
    • French salmon roe spread – A bit like taramasalata but with a lighter flavour and thicken texture. Considering how many pots of salmon roe dip I have eaten this was obviously going to make me happy.
    • Caviar – What can you say? Caviar is pure bliss and it was really interesting to find out how this shop works with sustainable sturgeon farmers. We had a bite with creme fraiche and then slowly enjoyed the remaining soft, buttery fish eggs on their own.

    More Cheeeeeeeeese

    Once this was all devoured, we bust out the bread, cheese and biccies.

    We were presented with our very own Fontainebleau, Its fluffy top looked so tempting so we dug our biscuits straight in. The cheese was really mild and almost sweet. Turns out it is cows milk cream cheese and whipped cream. I could do some real damage with this and a plate of cucumber slices.

    To go with the whipped cheese, we had the biscuits from Poilane. These little shortbread biscuits were very simple and tasty, cooked in the bakery’s wood-fired oven. However, as the cheese was so lightly flavoured, I would have gone for a saltier base…but that’s just me. I would, however, like to nibble on a punishment biscuit with a cup of coffee. I will leave the story of the name for your tour, I don’t want to give everything away!

    We also had a fun selection of four other cheeses to work our way through:

    • Ossau-Iraty – A semi hard sheep’s cheese that is very like manchego and goes excellently with quince paste…which we also had.
    • Rocamadour – A lovely goats cheese, not as punchy as the kind we normally have. A nice discovery.
    • Comté – I call this French cheddar (uncultured swine that I am). it’s a semi hard Alpine cheese which is the most widely produced of all AOC cheeses.
    • Fourme d’Ambert – Rachel said it was a mild blue but I’m not huge fan of blue cheese so it was strong enough for me.

    We washed all of this delicious food down with a crisp glass of white wine as customers came in and out, ordering the excellently prepared salads and yummy fish on offer. What a foody paradise.

    Pigging Out

    For glass of wine number two, plus some more tasty snacks, we stopped at Avant Comptoir. After so many traditional treats, this was a nice change of pace. Avant Comptoir focuses on cuisine which links France and Spain. Here you will find gentle spice and lots and lots of pork. They have a mound of self-serve butter which we hacked into with relish. Then you could add salt, pick up some paprika and even grab as many cornichons as you fancied. How novel!

    We ordered the caramelised pork belly, sweetened with Corsican honey which was very moreish. Sadly, it had a decent amount of onion in and I cannot bear onion so most of it was Mr Fluskeys.

    Then we went a bit more left field with a couple of black pudding macarons. Apparently, some guests are a bit squeamish when it comes to blood sausage but we both enjoy it so we thought this a very fun dish to try. It was intriguing to have it with the sweet cases. I liked the salty sweet combo but the macaroni exploded when I tried to bite into it. I should have gone down in one!

    A Divine Dessert

    Have you heard of anything more delightful than the concept of a chocolate mousse bar?!

    Now I am not a massive fan of the light, slightly watery mousse that you can buy in the supermarket. I’m much more of a Pots of Joy or Gu girl. However, the chocolate mousse at Chaplin is a very different beast. Again, the chocolatier here is a real master. He used to work at Buckingham Palace so he is no joke!

    We got to pick from five different flavours. These included the extremely dark Venezuelan mousse and limited edition lemon. We opted for the Ecuadorean milk chocolate. Honestly, neither of us thought we had room, especially as Rachel had warned us that we might struggle.

    The mousse was creamy and rich but still light and fully demolished it as the heavens opened and began to rain. This was the perfect punctuation mark at the end of our tour. We said a fond farewell to Rachel and she dashed off to the metro as we popped into a church for a touch of culture, and to wait out the worst of the rain shower.

    Final Thoughts on Our Eating Europe Review

    This was such an amazing exploration of some of the finest food in St Germain. We even got recommendations of a nearby food market that we need to go back to. I mean, I have been thinking about those chocolates ever since we left the sleek shop behind.

    If you want make sure you don’t leave Paris with a bad taste in your mouth, I.can’t recommend taking a tour with Eating Europe enough. It was casual yet informative, fun and of course, delicious!

    Rosie xx

  • In Search of the Aurora – Our BusTravel Iceland Northern Lights Tour

    In Search of the Aurora – Our BusTravel Iceland Northern Lights Tour

    There are a few places in the world that are excellent bases if you are on the hunt for the Northern Lights. Iceland is one such spot. Many people travel to Iceland in winter, exclusively to try and see the aurora. It was definitely on of the reasons we made our third trip to this stunning island. But did we have any luck?Read on for our full BusTravel Iceland Northern Lights Tour review

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    Our BusTravel Iceland Northern Lights Tour

    The first of our four tours had to be planned meticulously. I stalked the Aurora app, checking KPI forecasts, cloud cover forecasts and cross-checking with BBC Weather on the daily. The Northern Lights, Aurora Borealis, is to me the most beautiful and elusive of nature’s delights. Our first trip to Iceland in 2012 was for a week in October and we thought we were onto a winner…but no luck.

    With rumours that 2024 was another bumper year for the lights, we made a last minute decision to try again. The BusTravel 4-Day Wonders of Iceland Winter Tour includes four trips and according to the forecast, our first night in Iceland was going to be our best chance. Plus, they have a guarantee, if you don’t see the lights, you can try again for free.

    Pick Up

    We made our way to our nearest tourist bus stop. There are a series of these around Reykjavík and tour companies go around and within half an hour, they have all their tourists. We stamped our feet in the chill and sighed with relief to see the big BusTravel coach steam to a stop. We thought we would have to show our tickets but our names were on a list which was called out. Much easier when its cold. We dived on board, leaving the other guests behind and secured two seats.

    On the Hunt

    The coach convoy (two BusTravel coaches) head due north. We were making for a car park with a good view and bathrooms too. It took about 45 minutes but sadly, when we got there, it was shut.

    There was a smaller bus (I guess they were on the small group tour) and they all got out. The group started walking up the drive so I don’t know if they were just using the bathroom or the smaller bus was just going to park in front of the gate. Our coaches had to head back out on the road, in search of a new spot.

    All the time we drove, the guide was on his phone, communicating with other people who were also on the hunt. Well, apart from when the weather went bonkers.

    We were driving along quite happily when the snow got heavier, and came in sideways, it was so heavy that the entire windscreen went white! We have never seen anything like it. I thought we would have to stop for the night and be dug out in the morning but we slowed down to a crawl and it eased off in a few minutes. Crazy!

    Thingvellir National Park

    It was another 45 minutes or so until we pulled up at Thingvellir National Park. Everyone was slowly pulling on their hats and gloves when the insistent voice of the guide came over the microphone. “We have Northern Lights out here so hurry up!”. We practically dived out of the door, still yanking on a scarf.

    The Northern Lights

    We squinted up at the sky and once our eyes adjusted from the coach, there was a really low green glow. It seemed to be just behind the clouds.

    The whole group walked up a bridge and we all started taking photos. Phones have a much better chance of seeing them than the human eye as the eye cannot change aperture, you get 24 frames per second whether you like it or not. iPhones naturally keep their sensor on for 10 seconds in low light, which gives a decent shot. Saying that, they were so faint that Mr Fluskey’s phone could barely capture anything. We both had to rely on the iPhone’s sensor to get everything it could.

    A Little Hot Chocolate

    We were some of the last people left, desperate to see the lights come back stronger and more impressive, but no such luck. It faded to nothing and we had to give up. Happily, when we got back to the coach, a canister of hot chocolate was ready and waiting. It was hot and delicious, full of spices that reminded me of mulled wine. It felt very appropriate in the snow.

    Final Thoughts on our BusTravel Iceland Northern Lights Tour

    Sadly this doesn’t end with a spectacular reveal, videos of dancing lights and photos of us grinning at the show. The forecast was terrible for the rest of our trip, with almost total cloud coverage and low activity (yes, I did check everytime I was going to bed or woke up throughout the night….the FOMO was strong enough to wake me up). However, as I had to tell myself through embarrassing tears in the Keflavik departure lounge, we will try, try and try again!

    Rosie xx

  • Food Lovers Tour with Your Friend in Reykjavík

    Food Lovers Tour with Your Friend in Reykjavík

    Eating out in Reykjavík can be an expensive business. This makes trying all the delicious options tricky. In most of our trips, we have had one nice meal out and then room noodles or hostel pasta for the rest of the time. Well, on our February 2024 visit, I decided it was time to try all the things we had missed out on. The best way to do it? A food tour of course! After comparing the options, we decided that Your Friend in Reykjavík was the best option, hosted by locals who are passionate about not just food, but history and culture too. Join us for our Friend in Reykjavik Food Lovers Tour review.

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    Our Food Lovers Tour

    The meeting place for the Reykjavik Food Loves Tour was Ingólfur Square and when we arrived, we could only see one chap waiting in the cold. This was Stefan, our guide for the afternoon. Turns out, we were the only people booked on that day. Thats a weekday in January for you! Thankfully, that meant we didn’t have to wait for anyone else and head straight off to start the eating.

    Our first two tastings were in a restaurant just steps away from where we were staying. In fact, we were planning to eat there one evening but never got around to it so I am extra glad we got to pop in as part of the tour.

    Lovely Lamb

    It may look a little alarming but it was just in intense red light when it was photographed. The first dish was super soft and tender smoked lamb tartare. Icelanders love their lamb and the animals are treated really well. The sheep are given all summer to roam free before being rounded up in a big, fun community effort. They drink spring water and eat yummy grass, leaves and berries. With have zero stress and no hormones added, these are the most freerange farmed sheep in the world. The lamb tartare was a real delight. It was served on sourdough toast with a perfect chewy crust and cool cream cheese and capers. Plus, no onions which is rare for a tartare, allowing the meat flavours to sing.

    The Greatest Gravlax

    Next was some of the best cured salmon we have ever had. Somehow, the cure was so perfect that it was both meaty and supremely soft. I think we were both in heaven. The raw salmon, slowly cured in salt, sugar and dill topped some rye bread and was sprinkled with parmesan. I love smoked salmon but this may have beaten that!

    The World’s Best Hot Dog

    I know, I know, this is a rather big claim but hear me out, they may have a point. Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur is one of the cheapest eats in town and the dogs really are rather fantastic. This little red stand has been serving hot dogs right here for almost a century, curing Reykvíkingur’s woes since 1937. There is always a queue, even in the middle of the night when it is several degrees below freeing. Don’t fear though, the queue moves quickly. Apparently, the staff is paid by the hot dog so they have a vested interest in banging out those bangers!

    Traditionally, people order, “One with everything”. This includes:

    • A Steamed Bun – These sweetish buns are so soft that they basically dissolve when eaten!
    • A Lamb-based Sausage – Full of flavour and pretty unique. The rest of the world favours just beef or pork dogs.
    • Raw Onions – The devil.
    • Sweet Mustard – If you love the one at IKEA, you’re going to love this.
    • Ketchup – The ketchup here is very unique, with an apple base.
    • Remoulade – A kind of spiced mayo with mustard and a tang from vinegar or capers.
    • Crispy Onions – This is the final topping and gives the whole thing a bit of texture. I say topping but actually, they are put under the sausage so that they aren’t whipped away by the Icelandic wind.

    Now, you may or may not know that I cannot abide onions. I bravely said I would try one with the crispy onions in the bun but one bite quickly told me that it wasn’t the thing! We ordered another one without any kind of onions for me and I thoroughly enjoyed it.

    Lush Lamb Soup

    I think Kjötsúpa may be Iceland’s ultimate comfort food. Rich with umami, the broth is clear so you can see everything delicious chunk of root veg or lamb….and that’s pretty much the sum of it. Braised lamb is combined with turnips, potatoes, carrots and cabbage. The broth isn’t seasoned much, beyond salt and pepper so it tastes of the things you put in! Some families like to bulk it up with grains, rice etc but this is totally down to personal preference. As we slurped our way through the bowl, Stefan told us some really cool Icelandic folk tales. It was like having a cool podcast as we ate dinner!

    The Icelandic Street Food restaurant serves this soup in either a bread bowl, or in a bowl with the bread on the side. You’ll notice that if you order it in a bowl, the hunk of bread you get is carved from the bread bowls. That’s smart! They offer free refills of the soup but of course, you won’t need them on the food tour. Just remember it for another evening as this has to be one of the best value meals in Reykjavík.

    A Few Tastes of Iceland

    Newly opened, A Taste of Iceland on theLaugavegur is a treasure trove of foodie delights. The enigmatic owner travels the island in search of the very best and the very weirdest of Iceland’s culinary world. We were so excited to have a tasting here, including all kinds of things we hadn’t seen anywhere else. Here are some of the things we tried:

    • Seafood – Not for the faint=heaterted, dried cod is something that might make you curl your nose up. It is, however, familiar to many Asian cultures and reminded us strongly of travelling in Thailand and Japan. Less familiar, and more delicious, was another Asian-flavoured treat…sea cucumber.
    • Liquorice – I am always so unsure when people try to convince me I am about to enjoy a liquorice sweet. Usually, they are wrong. However, we tried a tasty chocolate-covered liquorice which had the right ratio. Then, we tried something called Djoflar (salted liquorice creams). They were so interesting and intense! I guess they must know how to do it as some of Iceland’s most popular chocolate bars have liquorice in.
    • Spice – Mr Fluskey does not like spice but sometimes, when we are in public he plays it so blooming cool. We were treated to a series of hot sauces, featuring chillies grown in hot houses around Iceland. The final one was painful. It didn’t seem that bad but after a little while it started to occur to me that it wasn’t wearing off, just getting worse. Somehow, Mr “I don’t like spicy things” was telling everyone that it was fine. Was he lying or did he actually not put it in his mouth? Trust me…it was spicy!

    We had to buy some of the cucumber relish that we tried (I am 100% making a burger with this on) and the crazy Djoflar liquorice. Now we are waiting for a fun social gathering to share these with our buddies.

    We made our way to the last stop, Dass.

    A Sip of Cider

    Knowing Iceland has apples, I asked whether there is a strong cider culture. Well, when we reached our last stop, I was given the chance to order some Icelandic cider. I was a little disappointed when the server gave two options, one very fruity, and one mysteriously called, “Flamingo”. Well, in for a penny… I ordered the flamingo. When it arrived, it was bright coral, as the name would suggest, and one quick sip confirmed it to be pink grapefruit flavour. It was delicious but as with its Swedish counterpart, it wasn’t cider.

    Super Salted Cod

    On our food tour in Lisbon, we learned all about salted code. In Spain and Portugal, it is called Bacalhau. Sailors who came north and caught cod (much of it Icelandic I’m sure) it was severely salted and dehydrated. On returning to their homes, they had to soak it for 24 hours to rehydrate the fish and dilute the salt. Well, in Iceland, where preservation isn’t such a problem, the salted cod is a very different beast.

    Lightly cured, the salted fish is just beautifully seasoned and the cooking of our piece here at Dass was so light and delicate. It was served with a punchy Spanish-style sauce and I wished for four times more of everything!

    Feared Fermented Shark

    It is time!

    Throughout our tour, the promise of this big moment had been part of the fun. We practised how to eat it and waited in an equal state of excitement and terror. I am sure you have seen the videos; tourists and world-class chefs alike gagging over small pieces of fermented shark. Hákarl consists of a Greenland shark which is buried for 6 – 12 weeks and left to go rotten. It is then cut into pieces and hung to dry for another month or so. It is said to have a strong taste of something like blue cheese with a lingering after taste of ammonia, leading some to say it tastes like pee.

    I think we should try everything once but this one I was a bit scared of. I didn’t want to lose all the delicious things we had enjoyed along the tour! When the small pieces came from the kitchen, I was put at ease. They were small and I couldn’t smell them from my seat, despite the board being right in font of us. We rehearsed the eating routine once more before getting stuck in.

    Well, neither of us vomited, or thought it was that bad….but we do enjoy stinky french cheese so maybe we are secretly hardcore? It seems more likely that we had an excellent teacher. (Plus, I am pretty bad at cooking so we have probably eaten worse by my own hand).

    Brutal Black Death

    Along with scary seafood, we were served a traditional shot of Brennivin (Icelandic fire water). This is more commonly known as Black Death and luckily, it has nothing to do with buboes. I actually found this header to finish than the fermented shark, but shots have never been an easy swallow for me. I sipped mine demurely as the others took their shot. It has a distinctly aniseed or liquorice flavour, like sambuca and it took me back to university just a little. Mind you, with the price of alcohol in Iceland, I will consume any I am given!

    Divine Dessert

    Oh, how I love Skyr! This protein-packed yoghurt-like is so good for you and so creamy. It is a form of strained yoghurt so it is thick but it has quite a light flavour, not sour like natural yoghurt can be. I thought that scooping it straight from a pot was the best way to enjoy it but they had to go and prove me wrong. Combining Skyr and my favourite dessert cheesecake, brought it to a very happy place. This dessert was light and “healthy”, making it to the perfect end to our Food Lovers Tour.

    Final Thoughts on Our Food Lovers Tour Review

    Icelandic cuisine seems like a real eingma. Before taking the tour, I know I liked the hot dog but had no idea what was in it. I knew there were A-frames on the street advertising reindeer (not from Iceland) and puffin. I feel like we walked way with a better understanding and appreciation of the food, the culture and the joy of Reykjavík. Thanks Stefan for a wicked night and we will be back for more of that salmon soon!

    Rosie xx

  • Floating in the Fissure – Snorkeling Silfra with Dive.Is

    Floating in the Fissure – Snorkeling Silfra with Dive.Is

    Cold, clear and calm the waters of the Silfra fissure in Iceland are unique. Taking the plunge into the chilly rift between two continents for many people is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. With this in mind, I had to make sure we didn’t miss the chance on our latest trip to Iceland. Join us as we embark on a chilly adventure. Here is our experience of our tour snorkeling Silfra with Dive.is.

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    Planning on snorkelling Silfra? Check out our 11 Top Tips for snorkelling Sifra here!

    From Reykjavík to Silfra

    Our pick up stop was the same for all the tours we booked in Iceland. Reykjavík has a system of tourist bus stops. You find the one nearest to your accommodation and wait for up to 30 minutes for the right bus to roll up. We had a message the day before our tour, letting us know that it had been shifted forward by an hour so we were there bright and early at 08:00. Although, as the sun doesn’t rise until 10am in early February, I guess I mean dark and early.

    When our bus turned up, we hopped in and met our guide, Henry. They cranked up the playlist and we were off on the 45 minute drive to Thingvellir National Park. Of course, Mr Fluskey fell asleep but my nerves were kicking in and the butterflies in my tummy kept me on the edge of my seat.

    Check out 4 Days in Iceland – A Long Weekend in the Land of Fire and Ice

    Kitting Up

    On arrival, we pulled into the car park, which doubled as a base camp. It was time to get into our gear for the snorkel. With the freezing water, everyone is given a drysuit. People can opt for a wetsuit but this is definitely only for experienced divers who have taken on cold water a fair few times before. There was apparently an official changing van but as people were diving, they took priority and we changed in our transfer vehicle.

    Remembering that we would be put into dry suits, we both made use of the toilets (having also been mildly dehydrating that morning). This ensured no wee was needed during the trip. I tried to forget my tendency for last-minute panic pees, informing my bladder, “Today is NOT the day”!

    We were presented with thick onesies, reminiscent of sleeping bags, which I gratefully scrambled into. The snow was coming down fast and the wind was freezing so any bedding-cum-outfit was fine with me!

    Then it was time for the dry suit. The feet were rubber and the legs were quite long so getting my toes right to the bottom of the foot portions was a bit of a struggle. I was dreading putting my head in, worrying that the rubber would rip my hair but it was actually fine.

    The gloves were hilarious. I am sure there is a reason they look like camel toes (titter) but they felt so weird. I quickly realised that my palm to use the GoPro was going to be tricky as they were really thick and pushing the buttons would be incredibly difficult.

    The last touch was a plain black choker, familiar to any cool kids from the 90s. Mine was tight but not too bad. It seems my trip mates had worse luck and they had to get theirs loosened a little to ensure they could swallow.

    Getting to the Fissure

    We waddled like sexy frogmen up the snowy path to the metal entryway. Once on the platform, we popped on our masks and snorkels before our guides shoved on our fins, like the least romantic Cinderella moment ever. Then it was time to step down and into the rift before us.

    Photo courtesy of Dive.is
    Courtesy of Dive.is

    Planning on snorkelling Silfra? Check out our Top Tips here!

    Into the Water

    As I stepped down, there wasn’t the initial shock that I was expecting, just a squeeze of the suit around my legs. However, when I flopped into a floating position, the water hit my face and hands and that was a little more unpleasant. Getting used to the dry suit took a minute. It was a very odd sensation.

    The group came together and we took a quick sip of the water which was fresh and…well, delicious isn’t the word..inoffensive.

    We were all asked to practice rolling onto our backs to float, the safety drill. This would allow us to drift safely downstream if we weren’t feeling great. We completed the manoeuvre easily but our trip companion, a lovely lady from the USA, was struggling. She wasn’t doing well with the tight neck of her dry suit and this combined with the cold water was leading her to panic. Henry tried to talk to her and calm her down but she was adamant that she wouldn’t be able to go on so he guided her quickly back to the platform before coming back to rejoin us.

    This gave us a little time to adjust to the frigid conditions. The water was so cold on the tiny bit of my face that was exposed, but once my lips were numb, I could relax and enjoy it. Henry asked us if we were both OK and I must say, the tight face hole combined with my numb lips made replying quite hard. I felt like a dribbling idiot, so decided to keep my face in the water to avoid any further dribbling.

    The Snorkeling

    The water in Silfra Fissure is crystal clear and the volcanic basalt rocks, so interesting. The snowy landscape above the water felt like another world when compared with the perfect calm below. I quite enjoyed flipping over on my back and letting the snow land on my face before disappearing back into the cool, calm of the water below.

    Silfra is divided into four main areas:

    1 – Big Crack

    This is where we entered the water. The walls are close together and it extends below and in front of you. It is hard not to gasp and inhale a lung full of cold water. Instead, everyone just makes, “Ooooo” noises through their snorkels.

    Photo courtesy of Dive.is
    Picture courtesy of Dive.is
    2 – Silfra Hall

    After the 30m or so of floating, the floor drops away again and the walls are a little further apart. This is known as Silfra Hall. You have a while to relax an take it all in as you drift along and I loved relaxing here.

    Courtesy of Dive.is
    Photo courtesy of Dive.is
    Picture courtesy of Dive.is
    Courtesy of Dive.is

    Planning on snorkelling Silfra? Check out our Top Tips here!

    3 – Silfra Cathedral

    Passing over the shallows, doing ur best not to touch the rocks, we emerged into Silfra Cathedral. This is the deepest part of the fissure at around 20m. Apparently, there are caves down there but I couldn’t even get my bottom in the water in the dry suit, let alone free dive down to check it out! You can see right to the end where the sand rises up. It is at this point, you need to turn left, not to end up in the lake.

    Photo courtesy of Dive.is
    Picture courtesy of Dive.is
    Courtesy of Dive.is
    4 – Silfra Lagoon

    This is where the glacier water blends with the lake water, creating a turquoise basin. Snorkelers are offered an extra 10 minutes here to relax or play in the pretty rock pool. I had seen a video of one group trying to dive as deep as they could and I thought we might do that too but the weather was against us.

    Photo courtesy of Dive.is
    Picutre courtesy of Dive.is

    Getting Out

    There had been talk of a big storm coming in, in fact, our tour had been shifted half an hour earlier to miss it, and we thought better of hanging around. The wind was whipping up waves on the surface so we used our legs properly to flip our way to the metal exit platform as quickly as possible.

    We puffed our way back to the car park. It wasn’t that far but the cold had really sapped our energy. I felt quite ashamed about my fitness until I saw two other groups returning who were equally out of puff.

    Disrobing

    The wind was picking up badly now and everything was stinging in the cold. My plants were frozen solid. The team had a bucket of deliciously hot water, which I made for use of but 3 to 5 seconds after removing my finger, the wind whipped the warmth away.

    Still, getting out of the gear was easier than getting into it. The guides got us out of the hoods in seconds and then we hopped up on a high wooden bench/shelf to get out of the rest of the dry suit.

    We were a little dismayed to see that the van was full of snow, but realised that where much of the gear was stored in the back, the rear doors were open for loading. Luckily, a hot chocolate and two chocolate bourbons were provided for much-needed sweet warmth. It raised a core temperature just enough to finish getting changed.

    Back to Reykjavík

    Once everyone was changed and the van was fully loaded, we prepared to drive back in the storm. Other groups were arriving as we pulled away and we wondered whether they would be able to complete the snorkel.

    The driving started quite worryingly. The van was buffeted by the wind and snow and we felt a couple of wheel slips. Then we drove past a car that was off the road, we stopped briefly, but the guys said that help was on the way so we carried on. Then, for ten glorious minutes, the sun broke through. Iceland really is a bonkers place.

    Check out our other travels in Iceland

    Final Thoughts on Snorkeling Silfra with Dive.Is

    I was so excited about taking this tour but also rather worried. Being such a lizard, I hate being cold and I get cold every time we scuba dive (in Southern Africa, Mexico and Malaysia just to name a few lovely, warm places). I honestly thought I would get in, get cold and cry through it. However, that was not the case at all! We got cold standing on the snow in the rubber-soled dry suit and then again when we were getting changed. In the water, I felt fine. Cold, but fine.

    I can’t quite believe these guys do this every day as it was physically intense (not exercise-wise, just endurance-wise) BUT I would absolutely hop in and do it again.

    Rosie xx

  • Exploring Wintery Wonders in Iceland – A BusTravel Iceland Review

    Exploring Wintery Wonders in Iceland – A BusTravel Iceland Review

    Taking a trip around Iceland is on many a bucket list, but what can you do if you don’t drive? Is the road trip off? Are you stuck in Reykjavík? Absolutely not! There are some awesome companies that whisk keen travellers around Iceland. On our winter trip to the island, we chose to travel with BusTravel Iceland. Read on for our full BusTravel Iceland review.

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    Why Did We Choose BusTravel Iceland?

    We didn’t have a long time for our last-minute trip to Iceland so we opted for the 4-Day Wonders of Iceland Winter Tour From Reykjavík. Rather than heading around the Ring Road, these tours go to and from Reykjavík as a collection of day trips. The collection of four trips, when bought as bundle, gets a cheeky discount and they include some of Iceland’s most stunning places.

    What Does the 4-Day Wonders of Iceland Winter Tour Include?

    There are four tours included in each package:

    As well as the four tours, you will get 4 nights of accommodation in Reykjavík. You can choose from a single, double, twin or triple. All rooms come with an en-suite bathroom, WiFi and helpful bits like a kettle & hairdryer. Oh, and breakfast!

    Our 4-Day Wonders of Iceland Winter Tour From Reykjavík

    Below is a short round up of each tour we took with BusTravel Iceland. We will be writing full reviews of each of these tours, so keep an eye on the blog for more!

    Day One – Northern Lights from Reykjavík

    The BusTravel 4-Day Wonders of Iceland Winter Tour includes a trip to hunt the Northern LightsOur first night in Reykjavík had the least cloud cover and the highest activity. Mind you, they did sy that sometimes the KPI number doesn’t matter. Still, we thought it best to go on the first night so that if we didn’t manage to see anything, we could try again. The free second attempt is included in the tour package. Plus, they have a guarantee,

    We were picked up from our nearest tourist tour bus stop (number 4) by a large coach. I was far too excited. We seemed to drive for a long time due north, aiming for a certain car park. There are certain spots where the coaches are allowed to stop, and this promised the least cloud interruption.

    Sadly though, the place was shut when we pulled up. The BusTravel Iceland small group tour was at the same spot and they could walk up to the car park but there was nowhere for the big coaches to pull in so off we went, in search of a new spot.

    We hopped out at Thingvellir National Park. This is always a good shout as light pollution is minimal. We could see a tiny glow in the sky and looking through the iPhone’s camera, we could see the green glow behind the clouds. I wonder what it would have looked like if the sky was clear. The little of the lights we did see was still pretty thrilling!

    After about 20 minutes, a canister of hot chocolate was brought out and everyone gratefully partook in the winter chill before it was time to drive back to Reykjavík.

    Check out all our travels around Iceland

    Day Two – Glacier Lagoon and South Island Tour

    At 14 hours, the Glacier Lagoon and South Island Tour is the longest of the day trips the BusTravel Iceland offers. There is a very long drive at the beginning of the day to reach the southwest of Iceland and its huge Svinafellsjökul glacier. I am not going to lie, it felt a bit mad to be doing this as a day trip, especially as we stopped for lunch before we even got there.

    However, as soon as we reached Diamond Beach, I ate my words. I would have done twice the drive to get there. What a beautiful and unique place. The glacier is undercut by seawater. As the chunks of ice break off, they float down the river and into the sea, where the waves promptly return them to the beach. The glaciers are battered and split by the waves before washing up and decorating the black sand. We had about half an hour here before hopping back on the bus and driving over to the glacial lagoon which was equally stunning.

    On the way back to Reykjavík we made one more stop to see the glacier tongue which was so different from the lagoon. The rough edges, coated in snow were a world away from the smooth water-licked edges. Just when I think I have seen the prettiest that Iceland has to offer, it comes up with new delights.

    Day Three – Grand Golden Circle Tour

    The Golden Circle is the classic tour that everybody takes from Reykjavík. It has some of Iceland’s biggest natural attractions, all within a day’s round-trip drive from the city. We took this in 2012 in October but it was so cool to see it again blanketed in snow.

    • Kerið Crater – A deep volcanic crater with a lake at the bottom. We were given 20 minutes or so here and some people ventured right down to the lake and onto the ice. I was a bit worried that we weren’t fit enough to get down there and back up again in the allotted time (walking on snow is hard ok). Instead, we enjoyed taking photos and watching them from above.
    • Icelandic Horses – The bus stopped at the roadside, a place where people could buy “Horse Candy” and feed the waiting equines. Icelandic horses are so special, short, powerful and completely unique to the island. We got to ride some on our first trip to Iceland and fell in love. They had plenty of people feeding them already when we got off the bus, so we left them to it and watched from afar.
    • Gullfoss – Gullfoss means Golden Falls but in the deep winter, it feels like Silver Falls would be more appropriate. The path down was completely shut as it was so snowy and icy! We could only see it from above which was cool but nowhere near as cool as getting up close like we did in 2012.
    • Geysir Geothermal Park – This is the home of Strokker. Since the main Geysir (the one after which everything is named) stopped erupting, this is Iceland’s coolest Geysir. Boiling water shoots up into the air every seven minutes or so to the general delight of waiting tourists. We stayed to watch it twice but the freeing snow blew in and we dashed from the warmth of the visitors centre, and the call of lunch.
    • Thingvellir National Park – The final stop is one we are quite familiar with now. The National Park is prime Northern Lights spotting territory as well as being the place where you can see both the Eurasian and American tectonic plates. We snorkelled in the fissure here a couple of days before! Iceland’s first government was established here, oft cited as the first such arrangement in the world. Meeting in the outdoors meant lots of people could attend….but we didn’t last more than 30 minutes in the chill so maybe they had really short meetings?

    It was really fun to see the Golden Circle again in a new light and now we just have to see it in summer!

    Day Four – Snaefellsnes Peninsula Tour

    “You gotta save the best for last”, and I think we did. The Snaefellsness Peninsula was the most unexpected and delightful day that we spent with BusTravel Iceland, surpassing even the Glacier Lagoon. We had some insane weather all day and I think the wind, snow and really added to the drama of some of these locations. We didn’t know anything about this tour before embarking upon it, and that probably added to the fun. Every time we stopped, there was a new and exciting thing to discover.

    We started at Mt. Kirkjufell, the most stupidly photogenic mountain. Forget Mt Fuji, this striped, point beauty is perfection. In summer, the waterfall in front flows freely but in January, there was just one little hole under which a trickle of water still pushed through.

    The drama of the Djuparlonssandur black beach was incredible. Through giant lava rocks, we emerged into a world of monochrome. The white snow, black beach, grey ship wreck and greyer waves pounding the lot were intense. We could have stayed for ages but the weather had other plans, throwing tiny shards of ice directly at us from the sea.

    The final highlight of the day was the Búðir Black Church. This is Iceland’s most famous black church and where the sun finally set in a last burst of flame behind the clouds.

    5 Tips for Travelling with BusTravel Iceland

    1.) Catch Some ZZZs

    These tours make for long days so when taking roads you have been down before, put your head down and take a nap. This is especially good in those early mornings when the sun is not up yet or the evenings once it is well and truly gone.

    2.) Get the Gear

    If you are travelling to Iceland in the winter make sure you have:

    • -Boots that can handle snow. They need to be waterproof, warm and have good grip. Miss one of those elements and you will have an uncomfortable day.
    • Gloves, hat and scarf that can handle wind. Cute berets are nice but Iceland is one windy island you will lose it quickly. Plus, a flat cap isn’t keeping anyone’s ears warm!
    • A nice, warm coat, preferably waterproof. Again, it could rain, sleet or snow at any point during the day. Icelandic weather is quite unpredictable and you want to stay warm and dry. Bring a thin rain coat to pop over your warm on if you don’t have a good coat that does both.
    • Hand warmers of some description. The buses can feel a little cool sometimes as the wind whips away the warmth. We found having an external heat source helped us stay toasty on board as well as outside.
    3.) Prepare to Transfer

    You may be picked up in a smaller bus and then moved into a bigger one. If you have a seating preference, try to sit at the front of the minibus so you can jump out and claim your favoured side of the coach. Similarly, make sure all your bits and bobs are still with you (around your neck, in a bag on your lap etc etc)

    4.) Lunch Stops

    The picnic stops can be in smaller cafes/petrol stations that do not allow people to just eat their own food at the tables. If you buy one small dish or a drink then you can claim your right to be there. You can stay on the bus to eat but you’ll probably fancy the change of scene.

    Buy the hot dog…
    …and enjoy your budget snacks too.
    5.) Bathroom Stops

    There is a toilet on board but you will be discouraged from using it. They call it the emergency toilets. Make use of every toilet stop so you lessen the chance of having to use the coach’s bathroom.

    When you do stop for the bathroom, head straight to the toilet. You might be tempted to wait for the queue to die down. But there is probably another coach coming along right behind yours and it will just fill up again.

    Final Thoughts on Our BusTravel Iceland Review

    Taking a road trip around Iceland’s ring road was our original plan but with inclement weather, and the fact that I cannot drive, it seemed so unfair on Mr Fluskey. By taking a series of day trips, he could nap when required and we could both relax and just enjoy the scenery, without skidding into a snow drift or sliding into a cheeky ditch.

    The BusTravel Iceland tours were professional and fun.

    Rosie xx

  • Seafood Stew & Sicilian Treats – A Boston Secret Food Tour Review

    Seafood Stew & Sicilian Treats – A Boston Secret Food Tour Review

    Secret Food Tours run awesome foodie adventures around the world. We loved our Secret Food Tour in Venice Beach, Los Angeles so much. We were really excited to join them once again on our trip to Boston. Now, bear in mind that as this is a review it will contain spoilers. However, not every Secret food Tour goes to the same spot every day. You may discover some places that we didn’t get to. Even if you do end up in all the same spots, this should whet your appetite! Read on for our Boston Secret Food Tour review.

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    Union Oyster House

    Chowder

    The Union Oyster House is not only Boston and Massachusetts‘ oldest continuously serving restaurant, but in the whole of the United States. The building was purchased by a couple of oyster mongers back in 1826 & has been serving seafood to locals and tourists like us ever since. Thus, you can be sure that they know how to make a pretty decent clam chowder.

    It was great to stop at Union Oyster House as part of our Secret food tour. We had been for dinner here the night before. Foolishly, we had ordered one cup of clam chowder to share. It was just in case we didn’t like it. Turns out it’s super tasty so I was left feeling a little sorry that I had to give up half of it. It was with delight that I tucked into another serving. The creamy stew, as this is technically a stew, is thick and full of potato, celery and sweet clam meat. The creamy element means that it is quite rich.

    Beer

    There is an upgrade available for the Secret food tour in Boston, which includes alcohol. There were three stops along the way where this applied, and Union Oyster House was the first. The people who had the upgrade were treated to an old-fashioned ale produced by Sam Adams, which they all seem to enjoy very much. of course, when we learned that it was beer that was the upgrade, we decided not to bother as this really isn’t our jam.

    Boston Market

    Q’s Nuts

    We crossed back over the road to Boston market for our next nibble. There is a stool called queues nuts that is run by the most passionate nut guy. I was slightly curious to know what QAnon take on queue would be if they found out that he was just someone who loves finding ways to make nuts, super duper tasty. Each not there has a magical coating, whether it is salted, spicy, or sweet, and in combinations, you’ve probably never tried. Who knew there was such a thing as a piña colada cashew!? we got to try about six different flavours and each was totally unique. We were not allowed to take nuts home to the UK, or I think we have had to pay for excess Baggage.

    Red Apple Cider

    The next upgrade drink was a hard cider by a company called down east. We had had a chance to visit their taproom the previous day, and so knew that the cider was pretty good. We had also been in Boston market previously and knew that there was another small company called red apple cider just around from the nut stand and so when we were given a little free time to wonder we had straight there. a glass of cider here, and I mean, hard cider (or alcoholic cider) was $10. I did particularly enjoy their Driver variety which wasn’t too sweet but definitely still had some of that red apple taste. We ordered a couple of glasses and took them with us as we made our way around to the next meeting point.

    Red’s Best

    Red’s Best is the biggest seafood provider in Boston market. They work with lots of small fisherman to ensure sustainable fishing practices and delicious fish. It was from here, that we tried the most magical lobster roll. I thought we knew what a lobster roll tasted like. We’d tried one at a New York street food festival & on one or two other less exciting occasions. However, the shear volume of lobster meat, subtle blend of clarified butter and mayonnaise, and the super buttery sweet brioche roll all combined to make this a transcendent moment. I would return to Boston just to eat this again. I cannot tell you how upset I was that there was the perfect amount of lobster rolls for the whole group, not a morsel more for me to eat.

    Into the North End

    Polcari’s Coffee

    We popped into a corner shop to warm our hands up a bit. Mr Polcari set up his coffee shop almost 100 years ago, way back in the 1932. This Italian coffee shop doesn’t just serve up delicious cups of joe but bags of amazing, coffee blends too. You will also find all kinds of European treats on sale too. This isn’t limited to fancy Italian tomato paste or vine leaves, but also includes obscure British chocolate biscuits more commonly seen in packed lunch boxes.

    Dino’s

    Dino’s has been on this corner since 1999 and their menu hasn’t really changed. They serve up delicious fresh pastas, made daily and all the classic Italian dishes you would expect in an Italian America joint. There veal parm, fruitti di mare and salads. We were there to try one of their hot sandwiches; 16 inches of fresh bread stuffed with tasty Italian ingredients. We got to try the chicken parm which was breaded chicken slathered in maranara sauce and cheese before being toasted. It was perfect comfort food. Presumeably this is meant to more than one person but that just feels like a challenge.

    Rina’s

    However, the discovery in Sicily of what Aaron sheeny is meant to be was a revelation. Actual risotto encased in breadcrumbs and stuffed with ham and cheese was a world away from the dry, sad attempts that seem to be the norm in London.

    They are engineers at Marinos mini, I think especially for the food. This meant they weren’t quite as creamy as possible as I had to cram an awful lot into a small space.What they did in creamy risotto, however, they made up for in creamy delicious, ooey, gooey mozzarella. I took a bite and it stretched on for forever. It was a scrummy bite.

    Boston Wanderings

    We spent a little time wandering through the North End, and North Square, home to the Paul Revere House. On the previous day, we had walked the Freedom Trail, Boston’s most popular attraction. This 2.5 miles walking route takes visitors past many important sites related to the War of Independence. By this point of the walk, we were cold and hungry. Therefore, we actually decided to skip the Paul Reveres House in favour of stopping at famous Regina Pizzeria for a takeaway slice/ This made our stop here extra fortuitous. It was fun to learn about Paul Revere in more depth than we would have learnt on the Freedom Trail walk. We knew he rode at midnight to tell someone, “The British Are Coming”…but that was about it.

    The North side of North Square is just so picturesque
    Modern Bakery

    When it comes to Italian bakeries in Boston, there are two main contenders for the cannoli crown. You are either in the mikes tribe or the modern tribe. Now, unfortunately, we weren’t in Boston long enough to compare the two. During our Boston secret food tour we were treated to one of them. Modern bakeries cannoli what is the best I have tried. The case was crisp but quite light and the filling was again rich, but quite light. It’s far outstripped the version I tried it in the lower Eastside. I thought I wasn’t that keen i’m cannolis in general, but it turns out I just hadn’t tried the best kind. can I live our another famous Sicilian delight that have been thoroughly adopted by the USA.

    Gotta Run

    Sadly, we had to leave Modern Bakery just a few minutes after we arrived. We were dashing straight from the tour to the airport. The tour was running long (usually not a problem at all) but we only had three hours before our flight was due to leave. I was starting to get crazy lady stress and so we had to make a dash for it, picking up our backpacks en route. I am glad we left when we did as the security lane at Logan was a bit of a nightmare. It was so hard to leave though. Everyone was just settling in with their canolli in the bright, bustling bakery. We will be back for sure!

    Looking for more things to do in Boston? Check out 12 things to add to your Boston itinerary

    Final Thoughts for Our Boston Secret Food Tour

    Well, Secret Food Tours did it again. We have had two tours with them and vastly enjoyed both. It is so lovely to be with a guide that is so passionate about their city as well as the food they love within it.

    One dish that I wish I’d been included on the photo is a Boston cream pie, or a doughnut. These pastries are synonymous with Boston but the thing about secret photos is they don’t just to serve the classics, and said they include some more unusual food stops. Mind you, it gives me a great reason to return to Boston.

    Rosie xx

  • Cakes, Coffee & Kalamatas – An Alternative Athens Food Tour Review

    Cakes, Coffee & Kalamatas – An Alternative Athens Food Tour Review

    Do you love to try new foods when you travel? Good! So do we. It can be intimidating when you are handed a menu full of things that you haven’t heard of or tried before and so we think the best way to start a trip is to join a food tour. We did just that on our first morning in Greece choosing Alternative Athens and their Delicious Athens Food Tour. Join us for our Alternative Athens food tour review.

    Not at all related to food, but the cutest doggo we saw on our tour

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    Flying Fluskey in Athens

    OK, so technically we had been to Athens for one evening before but we were just stopping over on the way to our Celestyal cruises sailing so we didn’t count it. The ship docked really early and we had a taxi back into Athens at 08:00. At the hotel, we dropped our bags but by that time, check in wasn’t for seven more hours. We decided to head to the meeting point Syntagma Square (the main square outside Greece’s parliament building). As we were trying to decide where to grab a coffee Mr Fluskey spotted a sign that promised a fifth floor spot with a view. It was at the top of a slightly tired department store called Public. The cafe/bar was rather trendy and the (slightly over-priced) coffee in the sun, out of the chilly wind, was the perfect way to refuel before the tour.

    Our Delicious Athens Food Tour

    We made our way downstairs at Public and just outside the door was our guide, Antigoni and our fellow tour mates. It was a Friday and definitely the off-season (mid-November) so we had just four of us. We made some quick introductions, a nice start to the tour and then started strolling away from Syntagma Square.

    Beautiful Baklava

    I have never been a massive fan of baklava but one of the nice things about food tours is that you will give everything a go. Boy, am I glad we stopped here. Baklavas is an iconic bakery that produces a whopping ton of baklava every week. They supply top hotels in the area and still manage to keep this little storefront looking vintage and very pretty. *I love the tiles on the floor). We were each handed a shining golden nugget of baklava and taking a bite, I realised why I had never really liked baklava before. This was next level delicious and what every other baklava should have been. The nutty layer was soft but still textured and the filo pastry on top was crispy and flaky, yet somehow, still had a decent soaking of syrup.

    We returned here for a selection of baklava on our last morning in Athens and they were all delicious but I did end up feeling slightly overwhelmed by the syrup. Turns out, I just need a salt lick to reset between each bite.

    The Bakery

    Good bread is so far removed from bad bread that it could be considered a totally different food stuff. We stopped at a famous bakery to pick up a loaf of the good stuff. While we were waiting, our eyes drifted across the other incredible-looking goods. Plump doughnuts topped with glistening fruit compote, sesame-jewelled twists of bread and crispy little pies. We asked about the other items and got to try some cheese pies as we wandered down to our next stop. Of course, they were lovely. Pastry and cheese…where could you go wrong?

    Cezve Coffee

    This is when I advise you against getting a double cappuccino before the tour because you are about to get some caffeine.

    At our hotel, I spotted what I thought was Turkish coffee next to the regular coffee machine. Well, turns out that this coffee wasn’t Turkish but Greek. On a trip to Sarajevo, I had tried some coffee from a pretty copper pot but my goodness, it was so strong and so bitter. That is why I approached this cup of joe with apprehension. We grabbed a table in the sun before heading into the cafe/bar to watch the coffee being made.

    The copper pot sat in a tray of heated sand, slowly bringing cold water, coffee grounds and sometimes sugar, up to temperature. The slow boil starts the coffee rising and almost bubbling. Once it reaches the perfect point (with the middle unrisen) it is taken off and poured into pretty little cups. Well, here it was anyway. The bubbly consistency and the sugar made this like the world’s best coffee milkshake…despite it bing black. The oxygen running through the drink really made it smooth and it’s lucky we don’t live in Athens because I would be wildly addicted!

    Once we had slurped and sipped our way to the bottom of the cups, the ground coffee started to outweigh the liquid that was left. It was at this point, the talent Antigoni gave us a fun surprise. I made a joke about reading tea leaves and turns out, I was half right. I got a coffee ground reading which was fascinating!

    Olive Oil Heaven

    Vibrating after my three lots of coffee, it was a quick walk around to the fourth stop. Here we entered a shop full of olive oil.

    We were given a palate cleanser in the form of Tsipouro/Tsikoudia. This distilled spirit has 40-45% alcohol and gave everyone the shudder. It was nice but very strong!

    Now we had nice, clean mouths it was time to fill them full of fatty goodness. We got to do an olive oil tasting which is something I have wanted to do for a long time. Greece produces between 174,000 and 429,000 tonnes of olive oil every year. More excitingly, around 75% is classed as good extra virgin and we learned all about why that is the only way to go! We also had some nibbles go along with it and turns out that green olive tapenade is awesome!

    It was so cool to taste three different types of olive oil and really get to slow down and experience each one. Usually, you have one bottle sitting at home with very little concept of how it compares to other types. It was interesting to take note of the spice, acidity and mouth feel. We actually bought a small bottle to take home which is quite unusual for us but they were just that good.

    Churches

    We passed through The Mitropoleos square, admiring the two churches that sit side by side. The smaller is the Holy Church of the Virgin Mary Gorgoepikoos and Saint Eleutherius (that’s a mouthful). It looks really old but that is because it used ancient stone int he construction. I mean, it is still over 500 years old but when we are talking about Atehsn, that’s practically modern

    Next door is the large Holy Metropolitan Church of the Annunciation to the Virgin Mary. This is Athens’ cathedral and was built in the 19th century. It is the spot where all the city’s bigwigs get married etc. We popped inside to have a look and it was pretty in a dark, moody, orthodox church kind of way. I always love all the wall paintings, so much to look at.

    A Super Souvlaki

    I love a souvlaki. It is the perfect street food lunch. Fluffy pitta, grilled meat, salad AND chips all wrapped up in the perfect takeaway. Usually, the meat is cooked on a skewer and that’s where the dish gets its name. Souvla means skewer in old Greek and that, in turn, comes from a Latin word.

    The souvlaki at Kosta’s is a cut above the rest with really fresh ingredients. Particularly lovely was the tangy tomato sauce, the homemade kind, not ketchup. I forgot to mention that I despise onion so myself and Mr Fluskey picked it out and then I demolished the souvlaki. I am sure that good company, warm sunshine and a pretty square with butterflies all added to the enjoyment. Still, I would happily eat this in the cold, rain of London and think it would be just as tasty.

    Doughnuts

    We bought a box of round doughnuts and they were very surprising The small round shapes meant I thought we were getting the stodgy kind of doughnuts you might find in a British fun fare. Instead, we tried loukoumades, a light, fried dough a bit like churros. They were soaked in honey and cinnamon syrup and melted in the mouth. I think we could have all eaten a box each. In other spots, and on many a recipe website, they are just balls so keep your eyes peeled for them elsewhere in that form too.

    Meandering the Market

    When we first passed through Athens, we heard pumping dance music blaring at a strangely early 6pm. We couldn’t resist the lure of the bass and wandered over to investigate. Turns out, the club was a large market hall with a DJ, food stalls and bars. Turns out, this is a Sunday party every week. However, during the day, it is a working, thriving meat and seafood city market (which explains the fishy whiffs in the club).

    We all took a stroll between the dripping ice covered stalls and freshly carved meat stalls. A large cow’s head was apparently the main attraction but I was too busy chatting to Antigone and totally missed it.

    Across the road, we found shops full of spiuce, establishments overflowing with bric-a-brac and large stall stuffed with olives. Let’s continue with our Alternative Athens Food Tour review.

    A Cheeky Olive or Three

    Technically, this isn’t a stop on the tour but Antigone has a good relationship with the stall owner and he is happy for tourists to try a few. We munched our way through as many as we could whilst not taking the mickey. The chilli olives were particularly good, coated in a mild chilli paste that I think I would return to Athens for. The large, green olives were meaty and screamed for a martini to go with them. Our last tester was olives in vinegar which were nice but you couldn’t eat a whole tub. They would be an excellent addition to a dish that needed a little sparkle..like a caper in a butter sauce.

    Taverna Time

    Our last port of call was a cool, yellow Taverna. We found a table in this lovely family run restaurant and food appeared. First we had a bread basket and a plate full of dips. We could try fava beans, a smoky aubergine dish and my favourite; spicy cheese. I know, it sounds like a Cheetos flavour, but Tirokafteri is a feta base with hot peppers, olive oil and garlic (or thereabouts). It was highly addictive. Why is this as ubiquitous in British supermarkets as hummus, tzatziki and taramasalata?

    We also had some dolmades. Now, I LOVE these, my stp dad makes a super version. It consists of rice mixed with fresh herbs and a squeeze of lemon before being wrapped in vine leaves. Here they were served with a lemon and egg sauce called Avgolemono…I might have to introduce my step dad to this as fun variation.

    Information

    If you are thinking of booking a tour with Alternative Athens, here are some things you might like to know:

    • The best place to book is through the Alternative Athens website where they offer many tours in and around the city.
    • The Delicious Athens Food Tour can also be booked as a private experience if you fancy having a guide all to yourself.
    • The tour takes around 3.5 hours and involves a fair bit of walking so bring comfortable shoes. It is at a nice slow pace so don’t worry.

    Final Thoughts on this Alternative Athens Food Tour Review

    Greece is pretty famous for its food. However, if you had asked me to list some I mnight have come up with moussaka, Greek salad and ouzo. Our Alternative Athens Delicious Athens food tour review introduced us to new delights (Greek coffee for the win) and learn so much about firm favourites. I am never going to be able to buy cheap olive oil again! We loved the blend of culture a cuisine which really gave a us a glimpse of the city. We hope you enjoyed our Alternative Athens Food Tour review. Thanks Antigoni and Alternative Athens, we had a blast.

    Rosie xx

  • Pferde, Fizz & Fiakers in Vienna – A Riding Dinner Review

    Pferde, Fizz & Fiakers in Vienna – A Riding Dinner Review

    There are a few quintessentially Viennese activities that everyone should try when visiting the capital of Austria. Grabbing a hot dog with a glass of champagne is a good one, attending a ball may be top of your list and eating a slice of dark Sachertorte is a must. However, taking a carriage ride in the city is one that mustn’t be missed. Join us for a journey across Vienna in this Riding Dinner review.

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    Viennese Flakers

    Fiaker comes from a French word evolving from the name of a carriage stand in Paris. They dominated the streets in the late 1800s, ferrying the great and the good between their homes and the famous Viennese balls. They were also popular for the odd tryst between secret lovers. Unlike many other places around the world, the popularity of carriages hasn’t dwindled although they are definitely for tourists rather than the average Austrian commuting to work. Bear in mind that not all carriage rides are created equal and the experiences run by Riding Dinner are more than a nose in front of the competition.

    Secrets of the Fiaker Riding Dinner Review

    The Stables

    The tour begins at the stables in the 11th district of Vienna. When we arrived we saw Marco, the chap who founded Riding Dinner, giving a talk to the large group who were a lot more on time than us. Turns out everyone else was German-speaking so he had to give the talk twice for our benefit. I didn’t mind a jot though as it was so nice to know that the many families there might be local and just curious to see the story behind the fiakers on the streets of Vienna.

    Our first glimpse of the horses was two utterly adorable Shetland Ponies. This is a 4th generation business and the Shetlands are given to the children of the family. This helps them learn how to respect and care for horses. They are pint-sized, just like the kids, and so can be managed. The children who were there for their carriage rides were going nuts for them. Honestly, it was too cute!

    Then the group moved into one of the main stables to see the gorgeous horses themselves. This is one of the stables owned by this family. There are a few around with around 85 horses. The stable was beautifully clean and clearly well-maintained so you can tell they take amazing care of their charges. Of course, you may have concerns for the horses’ welfare but the horses of Riding Dinner’s stables are so well kept. They have gentlemen whose sole job is to keep them fed, watered clean and cool (or warm if its chilly) during the day as they wait at Michaelerplatz. The Riding Dinner horses are given 3 days off a week and between 5 and 8 weeks of holiday on a big ranch in the countryside. They get more rest than most working Americans… it is the European way! Oh, and they get to retire there too.

    The Carriages

    The horses were led out and backed themselves into place at the front of each carriage. They stood patiently as the staff busied themselves harnessing them in. The gleaming wooden carriages looked complete. These are all original, revamped carriages and you can really imagine the lords and ladies of years gone by passing in these beauties.

    The other carriages that had been prepared were loaded up with families and pulled out. We all waved goodbye excitedly. Then we were presented with our beautiful, black and white coach. It was previously owned by royalty and we can see why. It was so elegant and incredibly restored. the shining laquear and pristine leather spoke of refinement.

    Our Bubbly Breakfast

    For out Riding Dinner review we have to talk about bubbly breakfast(!). Now, this is not provided as standard on the Secrets of the Fiaker tours. However, as this was the only chance we had to visit, it was combined with the sparkling sightseeing feel by letting us enjoy the wine. Don’t worry, we had a big hostel breakfast with a few courses to ensure we weren’t drinking on an empty stomach. Especially in a rolling carriage, we thought we should be sensible.

    The wine was an Austrian sparkling white with a blend of Grüner Veltliner & Welschriesling which wasn’t too dry. It was still reasonably complex though, not just bubbly nothing. So perfect to sip as we trotted into town. I was so excited when we discovered that the table had a built-in wine cooler and the wine glasses slotted in. I am a very clumsy person and even I managed to go the whole way without spilling!

    The Ride

    We began our journey into town. The ride was due to take around 45 minutes and so we settled back with our glasses in hand. The journey took us through the quiet suburb of the 11th district. This previously industrial area was sleepy first thing in the morning but it is a lively place by day with lots of new, creative businesses taking up residence here. It was very weird to be on the road in the carriage and those people who spotted us seemed quite surprised to see us. I mean, it took a while for it to seem less strange to us. Stopping at a red light and passing under a large flyover in such a fancy carriage was definitely two worlds colliding.

    As we got closer to the older part of the city, the roads became wider, and the buildings grander. We trotted along the side of the road, unbothered by the traffic. The horses do this route everyday so they knew exactly what to expect and where to head.

    The carriage was a beautiful vantage point to take in the surroundings. We were above the level of pedestrians and not moving so fast that we didn’t have to take it all in. It was a wonderful way to see the Ringstrasses in particular. Riding Dinner offers sightseeing that goes all the way through the main sights on this iconic road and I bet it is wonderful as the coachman is also a tour guide.

    Information

    Final Thoughts on our Riding Dinner Review

    There is something about combining ponies and plonk (or fillies and fizz) that just feels correct. The Secrets of the Fiaker tour was the most incredibly novel way to start the day. It was so amazing to see behind the scenes and we loved the chance to learn all about the horses from the people that are passionate about them.

    Rosie xx

  • A Sensational Sunrise Tour of Victoria Falls – Wild Horizons Review

    A Sensational Sunrise Tour of Victoria Falls – Wild Horizons Review

    Victoria Falls, Mosi Oa Tunya, is a huge waterfall that crashes on the border of Zambia and Zimbabwe. This was our second trip to visit the magnificent Victoria Falls but I was no less excited. My geography geek will never be calm when it comes to waterfalls! Join us for a sunrise tour of Victoria Falls and our Wild Horizons review.

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    Mosi Oa Tunya

    Victoria Falls is the name given to this natural wonder by David Livingstone. Being the good Brit he was, he decided to name it for his Queen back home (Queen Victoria I). However, before he arrived it had another name, The Smoke that thunders, Mosi Oa Tunya. The local tribe used descriptions like this as names for lots of things in nature and I think it is beautiful. You can see the spray rising above the gorge from far away, especially in the high water months but it is only as you approach that you can hear the roar of the falls. It truly does thunder.

    A Good Morning

    We were up bright and early to get to the falls. I think we were running about 15 minutes behind as it was just a little too bright and early for speedy make-up application, we hopped in the Wild Horizons car and began the 15-minute drive into town. There were loads of people jogging along the roadside, taking advantage of the cooler morning air. Getting up to avoid the 38°C afternoon run is 100% worth it!

    We parked up in the car park opposite the entrance to the Victoria Falls National Park. There were lots of shops and one or two of the proprietors were already in full salesman mode despite the early hour.

    Victoria Falls National Park

    David Livingstone

    Our first stop was the large bronze statue of David Livingstone. This Victorian British explorer first came to the falls in 1851 during his 33 year exploration of Africa. Of course the presence of a 34m tall reminder of colonialism has its controversial side. Some Zimbabwean war veterans did try to have it removed in 2001. It stood as a distressing reminder of colonialism but the local community resisted and so it remains, looking over the Devil’s Cataract.

    The Devil’s Cataract

    Walking towards the first viewing point is so exciting. At 70m high, this is actually the shortest of the falls but it is one of the most impressive. The view is side on and the water thunders past. It is the closest you can get to water on the Zimbabwean side. The island here is called Boaruka Island which means “Water Divider” but it was named “Devil’s Cataract” by European missionaries. They were rather alarmed at people using this spot to throw offerings, one describing the drop as “Hell itself”.

    The next viewing point is down several steps. They are uneven and deep so be careful if it is wet. We made our way down and just stood gazing at the cascading water, plummeting from above and pummelling the side of Boaruka Island (Cataract Island). This is an amazing photo spot but honestly, we were so overexcited that we totally forgot.

    Here’s one we snapped on our first visit
    The Main Falls

    Following the curving path, you can hear but not see the falls until you round the corner and there, in front of you is a wall of water. The sound bursts forth and it really does take your breath away…even in the dry season. Victoria Falls is twice the height of Niagara Falls and, when full, it is the largest waterfall in the world. It is up to 109m high and 1,708m wide 500 MILLION litres of Zambezi river water surges over the edge every minute. The curtain of white water is so beautiful and it roars! It must be overwhelming in the wet season. The mist of the crashing water already rose in misty drizzle up to the places we were standing. It must be a deluge.

    Now comes a series of viewpoints. You feel like a rabbit popping out of its warren entrances. Each spot gives a new view and then it is gone again. The paths winds through the rainforest, kept lush by the permanent mist from the falls. Keep an eye out for wildlife as many animals live in the National Park. We saw a pretty little robin (not big game) and a deer but our guide did point out some pretty fresh leopard scat so you never know!

    The Devil’s Pool

    From stop number 5 or 6 you can just see the Devil’s Pool next to Livingstone Island on the Zambian side of the gorge. This natural infinity pool comes right up to the edge of the drop. In dry season you can take a tour and swim here. The guides will take pictures of you right there at the edge, with the rainbow behind which is just beautiful.

    Read all about our experience swimming in the Devil’s Pool HERE

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    The Zambian Falls

    My biggest regret for our second visit is that it was nearly at the same time of year as our first. It was nice to walk around the National Park without getting thoroughly drenched (especially with a flight to catch just a couple of hours afterwards) but it was low water. On our last trip, it was also low water so we have yet to see Victoria Falls at full force, or the Zambian Falls flowing.

    Down here, you can see the huge island that has been carved out between two branches of the Zambezi. It is dramatic how steep the sides are I would love to see what had become of it in a few hundred thousand years. The whole gorge is incredibly steep. The dramatic turns of the waterfall over time have really left a twisted scar across the landscape.

    The Bridge

    The final stop is a lovely vantage of the Victoria Falls Bridge that spans the second gorge. The steel structure was constructed in 1905 and is made of British steel. The bridge is a128m high with the river flowing beneath. Its height means it is now home to a bungee jumping spot and a bridge swing. Above that you’ll find the border crossing to Zambia. People can be seen crossing by foot, by car and by truck. Occasionally, a train clatters across too. The Rovos Rail train takes the bridge on some of its routes and the Royal Livingstone Express dinner train stops here for photos.

    Final Thoughts on Our Sunrise Tour of Victoria Falls

    I am a geography geek. I will continue to be blown away by incredible waterfalls no matter how many times we visit them. For our sunrise tour of Victoria Falls it was so nice to have a guide who could bring the National Park to life and let us gaze like slackjawed idiots at the water too. This was our second trip to Victoria Falls and I would go again tomorrow given the chance. We haven’t seen a moonbow next (the rainbow that the ist creates int he full moon’s light..a good excuse to return.

    Rosie xx

  • Wobbly Knees and Lots to See – UFO Skywalk Review

    Wobbly Knees and Lots to See – UFO Skywalk Review

    Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia, is a surprising city. Some people are surprised it exists, I was surprised at how much the city had to offer. One of the coolest experiences in Bratislava is to take a trip up to the top of the striking bridge that crosses the river.I am take a stroll around the top…in a harness…outside. Read on for our full UFO Skywalk review.

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    The UFO Bridge

    Emerging from the Bratislava skyline, you might be alarmed to see a UFO rising into the sky. This flying saucer, however, is the crown of an unusually towered bridge. The Soviet Most SNP (Bridge of the Slovakian Uprising) was finished in 1972. Pragmatic as ever, the Communists ploughed the large highway down the side of the old town. In fact, the vibrations from the road are now causing problems to the mediaeval cathedral nearby. The structure, now called Novy Most (New Bridge) is real marmite architecture, you either love it or you hate it. I kind of love it and it’s sci-fi vibes. On our first trip to Bratislava, we visited the bar with our friends and laughed at how expensive the VOSS water was. On this occasion, we were going to see the UFO from a whole new angle.

    UFO Skywalk Review

    Our Arrival

    We followed Google Maps and caught the bus across the bridge. It dropped us on the wrong side of a very busy road with no clear way to get across or down. Don’t you just hate the Google maps dotted line of doom! We had a mini freak out until another kind passenger, waiting for her bus, pointed us in the right direction. It was further along the road down a slope, under the road, and around in a big loop to the eastern foot of the tower.

    Even with our detour, we arrived early. There was no one around and we, and are slightly panicky state, started to wonder if we have made a mistake. After a couple of minutes, however, are there brave, tourists appeared, and soon after, the staff. We did a quick check-in and squeezed into the lift with our fellow arrivals. It ascended the 80m leg of the triangle to the spaceship above.

    The Preparations

    And inside the UFO is a rather nice restaurant and bar. It is open for breakfast, but only a certain section is set out as a dining room. The rest is laid out like a cool cocktail bar or trendy coffee shop. Finding a seat, we signed our lives away with a waiver form (This always makes me nervous, don’t trust their equipment?!). We had just enough time to take in the view to the bridge below which suddenly felt an awfully long way.

    Then it was time to suit up. We clambered into the fetching Red boiler suits emblazoned with the logo of the UFO skywalk before being harnessed up. There is something about being strapped into a harness that makes me nervous and giggly, which is quite embarrassing.

    Circumventing the UFO

    The First Few Steps

    I went first, stepping out of the open window with distinctly wobbly legs. My clips were secured first and the reassuring tug as they were tightened helped somewhat. Still, it took me a little while to trust my self. Those intrusive thoughts were loud and clear.

    “You are so clumsy. Somehow you are going to trip and break these harnesses and that is the end of you”.

    However, the nice thing was that the rope to guide us around was attached to something that you could hold onto yourself. Not having your hands blindly, clearing out the air, but instead, having something to hold onto, made the world of difference. Soon I was taking jolly little mini steps along the edge.

    It took Mr Fluskey a while longerto ease into the experience. Many moons ago, he did a bungee jump in South Africa, and ever since has had a small fear of heights. This always surprises him, and me, as it seems to get a little worse over time. For the first five minutes of his walk, he was clearly distinctly uncomfortable…and it wasn’t just the harness around his nether region.

    I think you can tell from these two shots where we were both mentally.

    Having a Swing

    Whilst walking around the building, we were sat a few challenges. The first was to prove that we had trust in our harness. We were asked to sit in the harness and take a seat from the floor, sitting and swinging in the breeze.

    We both took our time slowly bending down and getting up the nerve to take off feet from the floor. Once I did, however, I very much enjoyed it with lovely views across the river and up to the castle on the hill. I am not sure Mr Fluskey enjoyed it quite so much but that was task one completed.

    Making Stars

    Challenge two was even scarier. We had to stand on one leg and extend the other arm and leg out over the bridge. Bearing in mind that I had just been making jokes about falling off, and my amazing guide had been telling me about someone who fell off and hit a car, and somehow survived, my nerves were a little jangly. I felt okay to release my arm and leg. But tipping sideways towards the void was a little trickier. After a couple of failed attempts, I flung my limbs out, pretending to do ballet for surprisingly effective in my own head.

    When it came to Mr Fluskey’s turn I got the giggles. He was hanging onto his rope for dear life, staring into the soul of his guide, and willing himself with all his mates. Eventually, he managed it, but didn’t really lean out to the side, which he was very surprised about when he saw the photos afterwards. He had definitely felt as if he was tipped over the road. Even I thought I’d been much further out than I was. It’s amazing the tricks your mind plays when it’s in survival mode.

    The Lean Back

    Let’s call the third challenge the trust fall.…but without the falling. We had to turn our backs to the world and shuffle our heels to the very edge of the platform. Then the idea was to let go of the rope and extender our arms Jesus style, and lean backwards. This was a struggle. Letting go of that little rope, our safety blanket, felt so difficult. It was more difficult than stepping outside in the first place for sure. With one hand off, I was more than happy, but taking that second one away took several attempts.

    I did manage it after some gentle persuasion and was very pleased with myself. Then the guide suggested she could loosen the rope a little and let me lean further. Well, I gave it a go but tipping back without feeling a taut rope supporting me was a bit much and I chickened out.

    I honestly didn’t think that Karl was going to manage this one. His face was deeply unhappy, and I could see his leg wobble as he stepped backwards towards the edge. Sadly, a table of early morning brunchers was sat right at the point of challenge three, so I couldn’t get in there to support him. However, slowly and shakily, he tipped backwards and I couldn’t have been more proud.

    Taking a Seat

    Around the last quarter of the circle, you go past the washrooms. In between the two bathrooms, in front of what I think is an office, was challenge number four. I am not sure if everyone gets the same challenge here, or if they judge your level of bravery and adjust accordingly. my test was for that safety rope to be loosened as far as it would go and to sit on the edge of the lip with my feet dangling down. This was very cool, but being 5 foot nothing, even with the rope fully extended, my bottom was very slightly lifted from the edge, so I couldn’t sit down entirely which was quite scary. I was clinging on with my fingertips to steady myself and ensure I didn’t slide into oblivion. Yes, I know I was still attached, but your brain does strange things at height.

    We both completed the walk and what a rush! The adrenaline was pumping as we gabbled away to each other about the experience. Anyway, lets continue our UFO Skywalk Review.

    A Loo with a View

    Here at Flying Fluskey, we love a loo with a view. I popped to the bathroom and really enjoyed taking in the view without the nerves. I would definitely advise nipping in, if only to wash your hands.

    The Observation Deck

    Upstairs is a lovely sun trap of an observation deck. It felt strange to have the physical barriers after having nothing between us and the sky for so long. Still it felt very freeing to lean right up against the wall and really take notice of what things were in the distance. Around the observation deck where comparisons of other towers around the world, and as always, we enjoyed seeing where we have been and where we have yet to visit.

    If you’re staying in Bratislava, check out how to enjoy 3 Days in Bratislava with the Bratislava Card

    Final Thoughts for Our UFO Skywalk Review

    There is a term, soft adventure, which refers to things that boost your adrenaline and make you feel awfully brave without being too extreme or physically demanding. UFO skywalk is just one of those activities. We hope you enojyed our UFO Skywalk review. We were both immensely proud of ourselves for managing the circuit around the top, and although our hearts thumped an isle palms sweat, it was just a nerves and not physical exertion. This is an amazing experience, and if you are planning a visit to Bratislava, check the dates because it’s one you won’t want to miss.

    Rosie xx

  • Romeo and Juliet’s Sunset Food & Wine Walking Tour in Verona

    Romeo and Juliet’s Sunset Food & Wine Walking Tour in Verona

    Italy is a world of culinary wonders. It is only by exploring the country and discovering the local cuisine that you realise it is still a series of states linked by a common country name. In Verona, joining a food tour is the perfect way to learn about the best of Veronese food and wine. After some research, I decided to join Romeo and Juliet’s Sunset Food & Wine Walking Tour in Verona. Read on for our full review.

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    Visiting Verona? Check out more things to do with our one day in Verona itinerary

    Romeo and Juliet’s Sunset Food & Wine Walking Tour

    The group slowly assembled by the beautiful Portoni della Brà. This ancient gateway is part of the old wall that runs to the fort. We met our lovely guide, Alessia, who escorted the group for the afternoon and taught us all she could about the city and its culinary traditions.

    Cafe Pasticceria Barini

    A Veronese breakfast involves one very small, very strong coffee and some sort of pastry. Make your first stop Cafe Bar Pasticceria Barini. The stone counters and wooden walls are beautifully mid-century and have a perfect coffee shop vibe. This is not the spot to sit and savour a long latte (well, you could but we have places to be). Instead, pick up your €1 coffee, dump in some sugar if necessary, and perch on the edge as you slam it down. You could also try a risini, a pastry stuffed with sweet rice. It is a carb-on-carb bomb that, combined with an espresso, is just the energy boost you need for a long day of sightseeing.

    Strolling the Stradas

    From Piazza Bra, we took a walk past the stunning Roman amphitheatre, now used for concerts and opera, and up Via Mazzini, the most popular shopping street in Verona. (Shame, I had to trek out to the far less attractive mall to go to Primark the following day). Alessia taught us all about the layers of history in the architecture all around us as we walked. Then we topped at an unusual little courtyard with a water well in the centre. She shared the love story of Corrado and Isabella, Verona’s original star-crossed lovers. As with the more famous Romeo & Juliet, this was a tragic tale and both lovers ended up jumping into the well. Is it dark tourism if it is romantic?

    Locandina Cappello

    It is weird to say that we stopped for lunch on a food tour but this was a nice restaurant and we had a good sit down here so it felt like stopping for lunch. The first thing to appear was a bottle of crisp white wine. Soave is produced around Verona and has a zingy, fresh flavour. It is light and perfect for the nibbles that came next. The small bites served in Verona are similar to Venetian Cicchetti but are a little smaller. Plus, the bread seemed much softer but that may have just been the style at Locandina Cappello. After the cold starters, we were treated to glorious little oven dishes full of polenta. It was creamy and topped with salty, mature Monte Veronese cheese. It was divine!

    Enoteca Baraldi

    Our next stop gave us the chance to learn more about local wine, and this one is world-famous. Amarone della Valpolicella is a deliciously dry red wine that comes from the hills around Verona. There were 3 to taste and despite not being a massive red fan, I actually really enjoyed the tasting. I think it is because I would never normally opt to give these a go, I mean Amarone means “great bitter” and I have quite a sweet tooth when it comes to wine. It doesn’t have a lot of acid though so it was quite rich and went very well with the food that we were offered.

    Charcuterie platters of cured meats and cheeses appeared. We had strong, hard Parmigiano Reggiano which is made nearby. i loved how the acidity of the cheese balanced out the wine beautifully. The salami was exactly the kind I enjoy most. It looks innocent but when you bite into it a burst of oil sends flavour running across your tongue. We were also presented with great slabs of focaccia from the Focacciaria a few doors down, which again were absolutely heavy with delicious olive oil, chunky salt, beautiful olives, or tomato. I don’t know if bread that is already that packed full of ingredients can soak up a glass of Amarone, but I enjoyed letting it try.

    Colle San Pietro

    The Castillo San Pietro Funicular zips up 159m to the top of 55m high Colle San Pietro (also called Monte Gallo) in a little over a minute. The group piled in with the tickets that were included in the tour. At the top, we had a reserved table at Cafe Bar Re Teodorico which has a super view of the city.

    Spritz O’Clock

    …more commonly known in Italy as Aperitivo. We were offered either an Aperol or Negroni spritz (or a beer if that wasn’t your poison). Spitz is a big deal in North-East Italy. Every day, people grab this yummy blend of liqueur, prosecco and soda water before dinner. The idea of the spritz originated in Venice but being such an enjoyable idea, it spread from here across Italy.

    After two weeks of rain, it felt just fabulous to be sitting, chatting with new tour buddies in the sun, cradling a cocktail. This is where Alessia left us and pair by pair, the group split off to go for dinner (how?) or to watch the sunset.

    Final Thoughts on my Food & Wine Walking Tour in Verona

    I love a food tour. Trying all sorts of food from the local region is a total treat and I always learn so much. Romeo and Juliet’s Food & Wine Walking Tour in Verona was the perfect way to start my solo city break. It allowed me to get my bearings in Verona and discover yummy things to try more of during the trip.

    …And yes, I do mean Soave.

    Rosie xx

  • The Original Sound of Music Tour Review – Salzburg, Singalongs and a Cider

    The Original Sound of Music Tour Review – Salzburg, Singalongs and a Cider

    Whether you are a lonely goatherd, a flibbertigibbet or someone who just wants to taste their first champagne, then a Sound of Music tour is a great plan. The Original Sound of Music tour guides you through Salzburg and its gorgeous surroundings, the backdrop for this iconic movie musical. Read on for our full Original Sound of Music tour review.

    Disaclaimer: There is a way to get prosecco on the tour, but not champagne.

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    The Sound of Music

    Rodgers and Hammerstein, esteemed musical theatre composers had Broadway hit after Broadway hit. Their powerful partnership produced some of the most famous musicals of all time, and among the most loved is The Sound of Music. The musical won the Tony Award for Best Musical and in 1964, the cast and crew arrived in Salzburg to film the movie version. When it was released It was a smash hit everywhere (apart from in Austria funnily enough). It had a rather good night at the Academy Awards picking up Best Picture, Best Director, Best Film Editing, Best Scoring Music and Best Sound statues.

    If anything, time has only improved its fan base. Across the world, people don nun’s habits and warble their way through film singalongs, every Christmas people get day drunk as it plays in the background and I defy anyone to not at least hum along to Do Re Mi!

    The Real Sound of Music

    One of the most extraordinary things about The Sound of Music is the true story that lies behind it. Maria Augusta Kutschera was real, and Baron Georg von Trapp and his seven talented children were real too. The show, hit musical film (and less popular film) were all based on Maria’s own biography written in 1949. Maria was a novice nun and was sent to be governess for one of the Baron’s children. The family fell for her as she fell for the Baron and after a struggle between her love and her Christian devotion she married Baron Von Trapp in 1927.

    The family really were a choir but whether or not that learned their scales with an adorable musical number we can’t be sure. We do know they started performing in public in 1937 and escaped to the USA in 1938…but let’s not let the truth get in the way of an excellent Hollywood plot.

    Original Sound of Music Tour Review

    As usual, I was running slightly late but I dashed up at 14:00 on the dot, had my name ticked off and grabbed a couple of spare seats on the coach. I had two seats to myself, behind a group of four Brits. As the tour went on, I could tell that the two ladies of the group were really into the film, one of their partners was up for a good time and the other wanted to sink into his seat. They were a fun bunch.

    We began making our way through Salzburg and I realised that this was going to be a real whistle stop tour. I guess that with only four hours, and a lot to see it was always going to be the case.

    Nonnberg Convent

    From the coach, we saw the Gothic roof of the Benedictine Nonnberg Convent. It sits at the bottom of the big Festungsberg that looms over one side of the city. There has been an order here for over 1300 years. Its most famous resident, Maria Kutschera, was sent from here to be baroness to the Von Trapp children. Nonnberg Abbey is a very quick drive by stop on the tour but it is possible to visit the church and churchyard from central Salzburg easily if you want to return. It’s a 10-15 minute walk from the centre of the Old Town.

    On The Coach

    We then began our first bit of driving. Along the way, we had a lovely mix of commentary from adorable tour guide Peter, video clips from the film or documentaries all about The Sound of Music or fun singalongs I pulled up the lyrics on my phone as a back up so I could really go for it without making a fool of myself. It is worth noting that the coach had excellent refreshment offerings. A mini bottle of Prosecco can be had for a few euros and it really helps to oil those vocal chords! I got one and it was a lovely sipper as we visited one of the stops.

    We drove past a couple of other spots from the movie, including the house that served as the front of the the Von Trapp’s house. This is a music school and so it is very understandable that they don’t want tourist buses spilling out a whole lot of tourists wielding cameras. I didn’t get a decent snap as my phone couldn’t quite cope with the zoom required. Bring a better camera than mine!

    Red Bull

    Now, this isn’t part of the tour officially but as a big Red Bull fan, I was a little overexcited to be on the correct side as we passed the Red Bull headquarters. Emerging from the front of the unusual office is a herd of bronze bulls called, Die Bullen von Fuschl (The Bulls from Fuchl). You will only see half of the statue from the road as half of the bulls are inside the building. Mind you, it is the largest cast bronze sculpture in Europe so whether you enjoy the energy drink or not, it is still quite impressive.

    Schloss Leopoldskron

    Schloss Leopoldskron is seen in the Sound of Music from one angle, its rather attractive backside. The back of the building was used as the Von Trapp’s house. It is a gorgeous Rococo mansion with an incredible location, backing onto the water. The Venetian Salon was also entirely recreated on a sound stage for some more scenes too.

    As part of the tour, guests take a walk around the lake. That’s the lake from the film that the kids and Maria tumble into from their small boat. From afar you can see the Schloss and its boat dock seen in the film. It is now a hotel so the public can’t wander around unless they are guests. If you are a huge Sound of Music fan then why not book a room here? The library is stunning and the grounds are full of S.o.M highlights.

    Schloss Leopoldskron used to be home of a certain gazebo that may have heard of but it was vandalised and had to be moved. Never fear though…we will see it soon.

    Now in fact!

    Schloss Hellbrunn

    Hellbrunn Palace is the new home of the legendary gazebo that played host to Leizl and Ralph’s, “I am 16, going on 17” number. Of course not the whole thing was filmed inside (there wouldn’t be room) but plenty of it was. During our visit, the benches were missing for rebovation but normally they are in there. Either way, you can’t spin around it yourself. I’d imagine there would be far too many broken windows and/or broken ankles for that. Near the gazebo is a touching information board all about Charmian Carr, the actress who played Leizl. She was an extraordinary women but I’ll let you read all about that.

    After seeing the gazebo you get around ten minutes to explore. I ran up to the house to see the front, up a long and dusty drive way. but taking a little stroll in the gardens is probably more pleasant.

    In summer, I would definitely recommend returning to the palace to see the trick fountains. You can see more info about it in our Salzburg Itinerary.

    Mondsee Abbey

    Our coach sang their way through the countryside until a glittering blue lake came into view. We wound our way down to the edge of the quaint little town of Mondsee.

    The real Maria Kutschera and Georg von Trapp got married in the church at Nonnberg Abbey, Maria’s order in Salzburg. However, in the film, the location was the rather striking Mondsee Abbey, also known as Basilika St. Michael. The late-Gothic church was built in the 1400s and is the second largest church in upper Austria. It’s pretty Baroque exterior was added in 1714 and the whole place was refurbished in the 2000s making it shiny.

    Take a little time to look at the altar and its glimmering gold and silver details. Then look again and see if you can spot the skeleton of Abbot Konrad II with his lovely sunburst crown. There are four other skeletons beneath him and several more relics to discover too.

    …oh, and you can pick up a little bottle of holy water.

    Mondsee Lake

    The group were given some free time in Mondsee. I think it was around 45 minutes. Most people took a spot in one of the pastel coloured restaurants and cafes opposite the church. I decided that it wasn’t for me and decided to take a little trip down to the water instead. I’d been travelling for two weeks with pretty bad weather and it was a relief to be in the sunshine.

    Walking straight towards the water from town brought me to a nice waterside cafe bar. I ordered a glass of Most (Austrian style cider) and sat on the jetty listening to the lake water lapping against the wood and a band warming up for an afternoon gig next door. It was so relaxing and much more pleasant than the rammed places in town. I think I was the only tourist there for quite a while.

    Top tip: If you are thinking of doing this too, pop a pin on Google maps for the coach park to make it easiest to find your way back on time.

    Mirabell Gardens

    Our final stop was an optional extra. Some people disembarked the coach and disappeared off for the rest of their afternoon plans. Peter offered to show the rest of us the way into the Mirabell Gardens. These beautiful formal gardens, surrounding the Neoclassical Mirabell Palace are best know by Sound of Music fans for being one of the Do Rae Mi locations. The children march around the Pegasus fountains (so name for the winged horse in the centre) and up and down the nearby stairs. These would be entirely overlooked if it wasn’t for their moment in the final sequence of the song. Plenty of people can be seen jumping up and down and standing proudly at the top with their arms up a la Maria and the kids. It rather lovely to watch…or to do.

    Information

    If you’re thinking of joining The Original Sound of Music Tour, here is some information you might like to know:

    • To book tickets, check out the Panorama Tours website.
    • There are two tours a day, one at 9.15 am and again at 2.00 pm.
    • The tour lasts around 4 hours.
    • For the best views you will want to sit on the right side of the coach as you face forward. This will give you gorgeous views as you head down to Mondsee (plus the Red Bull statue).

    Final Thoughts on Our Original Sound of Music Tour Review

    For a short tour, one that fits neatly in-between lunch and dinner (or breakfast and lunch) the Original Sound of Music Tour packs in a lot. I know there are longer tours, ones that allow you to see more of the palaces. Some take you to a gorgeous mountain so you can spin in true Julie Andrews style, but I only had 2 days in Salzburg so this was perfect.

    Check out my itinerary for 2 days in Salzburg here.

    I can’t claim to be the biggest Sound of Music fan. I know most of the songs to a point (or entirely), I have attended a Sound of Music singalong with friends dressed as a kitten and a girl with a blue satin sash (IYKYK) but at heart I’m probably more of a Mary Poppins gal. The Original Sound of Music Tour definitely satisfied my desire for a Sound of Music slice of Salzburg. Didn’t see any Edelweiss though so I’ll have to come back!

    Rosie xx