Clambering up onto the jeep, bedecked in multiple shades of khaki, the anticipation was running high. We had done our reading, we had listened to everyone’s advice, and finally, here we were. South Africa is famous for its abundance of wildlife and we had travelled from the first chills of winter, across the equator, to the sunny climate of the southern hemisphere to find some. Our Garonga safari camp adventure was definitely the best way to try this magical experience for the first time.
This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.
Little Garonga
Little Garonga is part of a three camp group based in the Greater Makalali Private Game Reserve. This is a smaller reserve near Kruger, South Africa’s most famous park. This is not a self drive park so staying in one these gorgeous properties is a grand plan. They are all-inclusive, and that includes food, drinks and fame drives. We were so lucky to have amazing guides, provided by Garonga, that were knowledgeable, respectful of animals and other Safari jeeps and were lots of fun too.
As we entered the game reserve, the first thing we noticed was that the dry heat had wreaked havoc on the landscape. The park was parched and bare. Trees lay on their sides, which we just couldn’t work out. Had a wind storm passed this way? Our guide and tracker filled us in. Once the trees are picked bare by the animals, hungry elephants push them over. They can then enjoy the roots which are packed full of nutrients. We encountered one hungry male doing just that and the power of the creature was immense.
We had another encounter with a single bull elephant doing the same thing the following day. As we drove by, along the dusty track, he followed us. He was a grumpy chap. Turns out, he wasn’t hungry (or hangry). This poor guy was just in search of a lady friend. He harrumphed quite close to us, and the guide decided to take evasive action. We careered into some bushes on the side of the track. It was the closest we got to a close call.
Along the way, we got to meet some of Africa’s most famous residents. On our second morning, we spotted some long necks reaching for leaves in the distance. As the jeep approached we noticed that there were also zebras winding their way through the area as well.
Did you know that Burchell’s zebras like to walk in single file?
These two sets of species like to co-exist as it gives them a little extra protection from the predators of the area. Plus, as they feast on different parts of the tree, they are not competing for food. Giraffes, at up to six feet tall, like to strip acacia trees from the top down. Zebras, being a little more squat will take the leaves from further down.
Did you know that the ancient Egyptians had a giraffe hyroglyphic?
The Predators
Speaking of predators. We stopped to look at some vultures, perched ominously in a tree by the road. As we tried to snap a photo (very difficult against the bright blue sky) our tracker, was using his amazing eyesight to spot something a little more exciting nearby. What none of us had seen, was a pride of lion twenty metres into the bushes.
The jeep crunched through the branches to bring us just three metres from the group of big cats. There were about 6 lions and their cubs. Some were basking in the sun, whilst others were finishing the last remnants of a recent kill. It was thrilling to be so close. They weren’t interested in us at all, bellies full and with the heat of the day leaving them lazy.
We could have watched them all day, but had to make tracks. As we left the scene, we saw the hyenas beginning to prowl the edges of the area but we had an even better hyena sighting when we visited their den. Until the cubs are grown, their families live in underground dens. It was our good luck that everyone was out and about when we drove past.
The cubs were incredibly inquisitive. They wandered around the jeep by themselves while mum rested nearby. This guy even had a little chew on the tyre to find out what it was all about.
Over our five game drives, we saw so much beautiful fauna. Springboks, impalas and tiny little deer darted in front of the jeep. We met a beautiful leopard tortoise. Birds and butterflies flitted past. These were all lovely and not at all scary, but I was definitely more nervous with the next spotting.
The Big Bruisers
Meet the chubby guys, the ones that you don’t want charging you, whose centre of gravity would trump yours every time. First, were the hippos. We heard them before we got to the waterhole. They grunt and snort surprisingly loudly. Now, don’t be fooled by there dainty swimming, or chilled out demeanour. If a hippo takes a disliking to you, you are in trouble. They kill more people than any other large creature in Africa. With this in mind, we didn’t get too close.
Back on dry land, we were lucky enough to see, rhinos; black and white! I was over the moon, knowing that rhinos are so rare and having very fond memories of a tangerine rhino soap for The Body Shop as a kid. The rhinos were slowly wandering aroud in search of lunch and seemed so relaxed. Mind you, we were quite far away.
You’ll notice that this black rhino still has its horn. Some places have resorted to de-horning their rhinos to protect them. but in Makalali, these big guys have around the clock, armed poacher patrols.
The white rhino was out with its little one. I was willing it to come closer but it was clearly shy and kept hiding behind the brush.
Did you know that when the locals described white rhinos, they were actually saying “weit rhinos”? Weit means wide in Afrikaans. If you look closely at the two species, the black rhino has quite a pointy mouth, where the white is…well…wider!
Final Thoughts on our Garonga Safari
Getting up early, and hammering around in a jeep was a little exhausting but it was so rewarding. To get up close and personal with such interesting animals was such a privilege. I still can’t quite believe that we had the chance to do this, and to stay at Garonga. Stopping at sunset and enjoying a sundowner drink along with delicious snacks (biltong and plenty of it please) we felt like VIPs.
Let’s face it, even if you don’t tick off your big five, you are still gifted with skies like this. The advantage of getting up and early and going out later is the chance to indulge in sunrise and sunset everyday.
We just made sure that between our 05:00 start, and 23:00 bedtime, we enjoyed the chance to chill out in our beautiful lodge. (We fully intended to nap but unlimited Savannah Light, a plunge pool of our own and a hammock to relax in we’re just too exciting).
During our trip to Zürich, we couldn’t resist the chance to embark on a trip to Europe’s biggest waterfall, the majestic Rhine Falls! In a country full of natural splendours, the Rhine Falls still stands out. Although there are ways to reach the falls by public transport but we thought that the benefits of taking a tour would be worth the extra cost. We took our tour to the Rhine Falls with Best of Switzerland Tours and here is the full review.
This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.
Our journey began at the coach park next to Zürich HB. We took our ticket voucher and exchanged it for a sticker at the little white booth, which I probably dropped twice. I affixed it to my bag and hopped on board., claiming two seats and settling in. This coach was a little older than the double-decker we took on our JungrauJoch tour with Best of Switzerland, but still, it was clean and comfortable. We drove for around 45 minutes, taking a little deto to pass through a very cute village with typical half-timber houses.
The coach pulled up and half of the group decamped for photos with the big Rheinfall sign. The ever-patient guide Fatima gave everyone a few minutes and then gathered us back together and walked us to the lift. These glass lifts very nearly give you a glimpse of the falls but they are very slightly around the corner so they don’t spoil the surprise.
Everyone on the tour opted to pay a little extra for the chance to get close to the falls on a motorboat. The group were all given their tickets and clambered on board/ The captain aimed the bow at the base of the rushing water. It was a battle of wills as the engines fought the force of the falls. At this point, the weather was pretty grey and rainy so we all had our raincoats on anyway, but it was good to have them as the spray came straight towards us.
The Observation Decks
Then it was time to get really up close and personal. The large concrete promontory that sticks out in front of the falls isn’t the prettiest or most sympathetic structure, but it kept our legs dry as the water crashed past at 600m³ per second. The spray fell like rain and whipped up by the wind of the waterfall chilled our faces. We got some photos and a quick real for Instagram before making our way up to the next viewing point.
Coming out from the rock, the covered concrete platform was mere feet from the plummeting white water. It looked like you could just reach out and touch it…but that was probably a bad plan so I didn’t try, lest I lose a finger. From here, we watched the other tour that the boats run. The motorboat heads to the large rock in the centre where visitors can disembark and have a walk. It clearly took some real skill to get the boat there safely. It was a shame that we didn’t have time to do this as my inner geography geek would have loved it (and in 100,000 years, that rock might be inaccessible so best to visit now)!
The final spot was a large open terrace overlooking the river and the top of the drop. It was strange that as the river opened up, I could see the volume of water, but lost almost all sense of the waterfall itself. I kept imagining what would happen if you were happily travelling along the Rhine years ago then you notice the water moving a little faster, the roar of the distant falls starting to creep in and realising that you were a LONG way from either river bank. It was a scary thought.
Laufen Castle
After catching the lift back up, we took a look inside Schloss Laufen. There has been a castle here for over 1200 years in some form or another. It has amazing views of the falls below. Inside, the museum’s exhibitions range from information about the castle’s history to mock-ups of the way people lived within its walls through different eras. There are also some quite strange rooms, one lined with singing portraits and another featuring a fake train ride. It is a fun distraction, but we zipped through quite quickly.
With a little time to kill and the sun, making an unusual appearance, we decided to grab a drink and snack and hang out in the children’s play park. We really climbed and we really slid. The park area, opposite the pretty church, and next to the crenellated ramparts was a lovely spot for a picnic.
We made it back to the coach bang on time as Fatima rounded up the unbothered stragglers.
Top Tip for Taking Tours: Be at the designated meeting point at the designated meeting time or you will be judged!
Final Thoughts on This Tour to the Rhine Falls with Best of Switzerland
Visiting the Rhine Falls with Best of Switzerland, was an interesting mix of independent travel and guided tour. It was nice to have the convenience of a coach both ways and to be pointed in the right direction for the boat and the tours, but I did enjoy the chance to explore on our own for some portions. I wish we had more time at the Rhine Falls; to take one of the nature trails or hop on the train to see the view from the viaduct…but I guess we kind of did in the museum. Overall, it was a brilliant way to spend half a day during a trip to Zürich and a great way to visit the Rhine Falls.
When researching Switzerland, there is a huge bucket list of places to visit and things to do. When I learned about Jungfraujoch it leapt straight to the top of mine! Of course, on a train adventure, we had to visit the highest train station in Europe. We are happy independent travellers but sometimes, it is nice to have the extra layer of information, care and simplicity that a tour offers so we decided to travel as part of a group, with Best of Switzerland Tours. Join us as we go up, into the clouds to the Top of Europe, Jungfraujoch.
This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.
Best of Switzerland Tours
When debating our options within Switzerland, we were taken with Best of Switzerland Tours. They have over 20 years of experience, have multilingual guides and offered just the itineraries I was thinking of. It was a no-brainer. For our Jungfraujoch tour, we had arranged to be picked up in Interlaken and then to travel all the way to Zürich with Best of Switzerland Tours that evening. This is always such a great way to move from one spot to another so check to see if they do multiple pick ups or drop offs on your chosen tour. The large coaches have room for bags underneath so no drama!
Pick Up in Grindelwald
All of the Best of Switzerland Tours adventures start from the front of the Interlaken Outdoor Shop. There were a couple of seats but we all huddled when it started drizzling. Luckily, it didn’t last too long and our guide took us around the back to the car park. We passed our big bags over to the driver and then head up the coach stairs to find some seats on the top deck. This gave us super views as the bus wound its way through the valley to gorgeous Grindelwald. Along the way, we had some interesting commentary and important information from our guide, Regula over the coach’s loudspeaker.
The Eiger Express
We were given a short bathroom break after everyone disembarked from the coach and then we all gathered together, ready to board the Eiger Express. To reach the first stop, Eigergletscher (Eiger Glacier) everybody used to take the train but in December 2020 a huge new cable car opened. This lovely, modern cable car whisks you up in just 15 minute whilst affording some rather nice views.
The group had their tickets handed out and we were all told emphatically not to lose them. These tickets aren’t cheap and if you lose it, you are paying your own way back down! We scanned through the ticket barriers and divided into two gondolas. We all had a great view as the cable car whooshed out of the station and over the lush green fields of the Bernese Oberland.
About five minutes into the ride, we rose into the clouds and rain. Drops gently caught the windows and the photographers of the group started to look nervous as they tried to capture the evergreen forests below. Just two minutes after, however, we had bypassed the rainy spot and instead emerged into a world of white snow and dark rock. The beautiful icy vistas continued until we piled out at our second station stop.
Eigergletscher Station – 2,320 m
We had a short break once again to explore Eigergletscher Station or run for a wee. We wandered out onto the snowy plateau, excited to see the snow falling but sad that it was whiting out lots of the view. There were some people up there that had never seen snow before and watching the children, especially, discovering the joys and chilly wetness of it was so much fun. I wonder how many people have had their first experience of snow here in the last 125 years.
Of course, I dropped and nearly lost my important ticket and so had a quick rethink about where I kept it.
Jungfrau Cogwheel Railway
Once back together, the group took the escalator down to the platform for the iconic cogwheel railway. We were all given a pretend Swiss passport which had loads of info about Jungfraujoch and a space to get it stamped at the top. We decided to have a quick flick through it on the train ride.
The cogwheel railway has been running for over a hundred years and has two tracks. This one took us up and then we hopped on the other to come the other way. The cogwheel (or rack) railway works by combing a toothed wheel and a grooved middle rail. It makes a rather unique noise as it sets off and rattles its way up the hill. Well, actually it is through the hill. This railway actually travels steeply through the mountain in a long tunnel. There isn’t much of a view but it is very novel.
Halfway up is a stop that it usually pauses at, we were told that we were not going to be stopping there but soon, the plan changed and we found we were actually going to get the chance to see Eismeer Station.
Eismeer Station – 3,159 m
The main idea of Eismeer is to give everyone a view of Ischmeer (Ice Sea). We weren’t so lucky. Everyone rushed off the train, with calls of, “Only five minutes” ringing in our ears. Sadly, the fog/cloud had completely obscured any view and it was like the blinds were shut on the other side of the glass. We giggled at our bad fortune, took a photo or two and ran back to the train.
No, this isn’t a broken picture…this was the viewSo excited
Touching the Top of Europe, Jungfraujoch – 3454 m
The next station was the big one, Jungfraujoch! The whole train emptied out, everyone following their respective tour guides. Regula took us straight through the cafe, explaining that we would be meeting back there and the specified time. Half of our group didn’t seem to be listening so I was curious to see how that would go.
Jungfraujoch – The Sphinx
Our first stop was a group trip up The Sphinx. This rocky overlook holds the name of The Sphinx, as does the astronomical observatory on top. The public can head out onto the open metal platform and take in the view of the three main mountain peaks visible from here; Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau. At least, that was what we were hoping for but we were greeted by a wall of grey. Tourists stood around taking photos of each other against the dull backdrop and of the Sphinx building, the only visible landmark. We did the same but when t started snowing, decided to duck back inside for the indoor activities on offer. (After scoffing our pretty poor packed lunch and waiting for our feet to warm up).
Another stunning view Catching snowflakes
Jungfraujoch – The Alpine Sensation Exhibition
The group dispersed as some decided to go through the exhibition and others bypassed it. We wanted to see as much as possible so we head on in. This was a fun museum detailing the building of the railway and Jungfraujoch. I loved the section all about the old hotel which once stood up here that sadly, burned down. It would have been phenomenal to stay up here. Mr Fluskey particularly loved all the old black-and-white photos of the construction years with workers and their families looking so smart. We thought that the moving walkway was a nice touch for those that struggle with mobility but we walked back to take a longer look at the exhibits.
Jungfraujoch – The Ice Palace
I had seen photos of the ice tunnel that forms the entrance of the Ice Palace but I never knew the whole thing was frozen!? I guess it makes sense as this has been carved inside the glacier. Everyone half walks, half ice skates along the thin ice tunnel, giggling and trying to skid whilst hanging onto the railing for dear life. It was great fun. We traversed this corridor before arriving at an ice museum. There were some really cool ice carvings and we made ourselves laugh far too hard at the ice bar, (no vodka on offer here though). Sadly, Mr Fluskey’s boots were so good at gripping that he couldn’t skate very well, whereas I loved slipping and sliding through the attraction.
Jungfraujoch – The Plateau
We head up three floors and felt a cold wind blowing in. This was the exit to the Plateau. The snow was whipping in and it was a steep little climb out to the wide section of exposed mountain. We saw everyone taking photos over by a big Swiss flag so of course we went and waited our turn. As we did, the snow stopped and it began to brighten up a little.
As the sky was a little brighter we walked past this mildly cleared section and found knee-deep, untouched snow. It was really tempting to make snow angels but it seemed like a bad plan with no change of clothes. I nearly fell face forward into the drifts as we struggled across. Then, all of a sudden, a cloud shifted, the sun broke through and we could see the mountain peak behind, edged by blue sky. I mildly freaked out with excitement. Finally, a view…and it lasted for three whole minutes. We made our way back down the slope slowly and carefully, deciding to head back up the Spinx just incase we had another glimpse of sky.
Jungfraujoch – Lindt Swiss Chocolate Heaven
The Lindt shop is the highest in the world and so we couldn’t skip it completely but we did rather rush through it. There were two rooms, one which seemed like a little museum and then a smaller, very, very busy shop stuffed with delicious Lindt chocolate. We dashed through, mouths watering and thank goodness we did because, on the way out, an extremely kind cashier gave us a Lindt ball each. After our dry sandwich lunch, this was a real treat.
Jungfraujoch – The Sphinx 2 (Electric Boogaloo)
We stormed back down the stairs and up the long stone corridor to the Sphinx lift. I could see sunshine as the door opened and ran to the door for the outdoors. There, still hazy but distinctly visible compared to before was one of the three peaks. It was so crazy to see what that grey cloud was hiding, majestic mountains covered in pretty snow. I was far too happy! Soon enough the peak disappeared again but as the clear spot travelled across the mountains, the other peaks made their own cameo in our day. All in all, we got about ten minutes of glorious sunshine and stunning views. I am so, so glad we made our mad dash.
Jungfraujoch – The Cafe
As the cloud moved in again, we checked our watches and realised we had about 30 minutes left before the meeting time. We decided to go down to the cafe, wait and warm up. Plus, if they had some sort of delicious boozy hot chocolate to sip while we waited, I was all for it. Sadly there was no Baileys hot choccy to be had but we did find a nice table by the window. I was a little tempted by the schnapps but thought better of it. Giving up on the view, we stamped our pretend passports and waited for our group to appear. At the meeting time, Regula, our guide, and two other people had gathered. She gave everyone five more minutes but the train was leaving whether they were there or not so off we went.
The Cogwheel 2 – The Descent
Everybody ran and managed to make the train in time and we all settled in for our cogwheel journey downhill. We had a nice chat with some fellow group members who had discovered a bar. It was out by the area with the adventure sports. I was a little jealous but just at that moment, a lovely train conductor came through and gave us all a little Lindt chocolate bar. Two free choccies in one day!
The Final Train
The train came out of the tunnel and into a flurry of snowflakes. The snow we’d seen thus far was light and small but this was real snow, falling in big, insistent flakes. We had a 20 minute change at Kleine Scheldegg and everyone crammed into the warm, dry ticket office.
The final train of the day took us back into the world of green grass and tourist accommodation. We chugged down the sides of steep slopes through open-sided concrete tunnels and under ski slopes. Train wound down towards and around the car-free village of Wengen where the train filled up with people on their own day trips. The final leg took us through the beautiful town of Lauterbrunnen and its iconic waterfalls. We didn’t actually have any time to sightsee here so i was really glad we saw it the day before.
The Coach to Zürich
Everyone walked straight from the train station to the coach park where I ran for a bathroom stop and then back to the coach. We settled into our red leather seats, plugged in our phones and prepared for a comfy three-hour ride to Zürich. We picked the wrong side for the nice views but caught a few pretty vistas. Mr Fluskey slept for quite a bit of the way but just as my eyes started closing, we got some commentary about Zürich. I perked up as it meant Zürich was approaching and we were soon driving through the city streets. We pulled into the main bus station and grabbed our bags, ready for the fifteen-minute walk to Krone Zurich Pop Up Hostel.
Final Thoughts for Our Day at the Top of Europe, Jungfraujoch with Best of Switzerland Tours
This day tour was a long day but it flew by and I loved nearly all of it. Of course, I was very disappointed when I thought that we wouldn’t see anything but the pure serotonin hit when the sun came out was divine. I wonder if we had still been up there if we hadn’t been on Best of Switzerland’s timeline? Either way, it was really nice to relax and be guided for the day after organising a month of interrailing. Leave the logistics to someone else and take it all in!
I can’t help it, I am a bit of a box ticker when it comes to Europe and I just couldn’t leave Switzerland without seeing the top of Europe, Jungfraujoch. Next stop, Tanggula Mountain Railway Station (the highest train station in the whole world).
There is a legend of which the sailors speak, the mermaid. These beautiful creatures live under the sea and wave to those poor deprived men, setting their hearts aflutter. Well, you may not believe in mermaids but have you ever heard that they may actually have been manatees with seaweed on their heads? Either that, or they were synchronised swimmers with incredible breath control. On Florida’s west coast, you can go in search of mermaids and find both. This is the perfect day in Crystal River.
This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.
Wake Up Early for Breakfast at Crystal Manatee
We think it is a great idea to arrive in Crystal River the night before your full day. Driving to Crystal River in the morning would mean being really tired all day Morning tours start at 09:00 and it is best to arrive full of energy.
When choosing your accommodation in Crystal River, pick somewhere clean, cute and well-located. We loved The Retreat at Crystal Manatee. The huge rooms have obviously had a facelift recently with very coastal white walls and blue accents. Each room has a big TV, a bigger bed and a huge sink! The en suite bathrooms are small but have coo showers with an array of knobs and some lovely green tea toiletries. Oh, and speaking of breakfast, every guest gets homemade pasties daily and there is a breakfast selection of coffees, juices, cereals and toastable breads.
Take a Manatee Tour with Explorida
Manatees head for Crystal River and the nearby springs during winter to live in the warmer waters. Manatee season runs from mid March to the end of March so we visited right at the tail end (and what a cute flappy tail it is). During this time there can be thousands of manatees. Don’t worry if you are not due to arrive right in the middle of the season though, there is a population of around 60 .that lives here all years round.
Explorida takes manatee welfare seriously so the first thing you will do when you arrive is to watch a video all about how to observe them without impacting them too much. Basically, you float about being as still as possible and trying to avoid touching, scaring or harassing them. It can be tricky not to surround them when the water is murky as you can’t see them from further away but just thy to stick to the rules and take turns.
To help with buoyancy, and body temperature in the water, everyone changes into wet suits and then hops into a minivan to the quay. The boat ride out to King’s Bay is about 29 minutes. Just before arriving, the group is kitted out with a snorkel and mask set to breathe comfortably underwater. Then it’s time to slide into the water.
Now you are free to float on your pool noodle. This, plus the wetsuit will keep you extremely buoyant. If you stick close to the guide they will show you where to observe the manatee and can answer any questions you have about them. In all, you should get 1.5-2 hours in the water.
Manatees are incredibly gentle. They are big but completely harmless. They are known as sea cows but are much cuter and less scary when you are right next to one. If they come towards you, don’t worry, they are probably just eating along the sea grass and haven’t even noticed you.
Prepare for a few too many pictures of manatees taken through the murky water…
Grab a Latte and Lunch at Cattle Dog Coffee Roasters
After a swim, I am always in the mood for a treat and the drinks at Cattle Dog Roaster are definitely a treat! There seems to be two sides to this local roastery. They both take their coffee very seriously and turn them onto exceedingly naughty, creamy beverages. If you are a purist, you can pick from over 20 different single origin coffees, and have one straight up. You can also buy a bag or two to take with you. However, if you are feeling frivolous, you can have one of their lattes which include options such as raspberry and white chocolate, hazelnut, banana and chocolate or cinnamon, French vanill
Of course, this being lunchtime, you should also have a pastry, sandwich, famous weekend brunch or a delicious lobster roll or bisque (if it’s Friday).
A 40 minute drive south of Crystal River is the Weeki Wachee State Park. This plays host to the iconic mermaid show that has been running since 1947! The show lasts about 30 minutes and involves incredible underwater performers acting and doing acrobatics in a HUGE natural spring. The theatre building was built to observe the spring, not the other way around. There are currently two shows, The Little Mermaid being the one that you might recognise.
Performers demonstrate incredible breath control and they pretend to speak and sing whilst flapping their tails and performing all kinds of tricks throughout the show. You will see hoses around the space from which, they snatch oxygen, allowing them to remain underwater. It is so impressive!
There are only 500 seats and people start queueing early. Aim to arrive at the park 50 minutes before the show and get into the queue at least 30 minutes prior to the show time. Oh, and lots of the queue isn’t covered so make sure to bring a hat or umbrella to create some shade.
After the show, it is your time to take a dip. Sadly, you are not allowed to wear mermaid tails in the spring (I think it is probably to stop people from trying stunts they can’t do and getting in trouble). The water is cool and clear with a couple of water slides int eh summer and a diving platform you can use all year. There is a fake beach to relax on but there are some hidden costs (the deck chairs cost extra so bring a beach throw to sit here without paying). There are also animal shows and a short river cruise to enjoy at no extra cost.
A Few Other Afternoon Ideas
Three Sisters Spring is not only another wonderful place to meet manatees but the most beautiful spot with clear, turquoise water and stunning foliage. You can swim with the manatees again, rent kayaks for a guided paddle or just stroll the raised walkways.
Airboat rides are an amazing way to see more of the local coast. They will take you along those parts you can’t get to by car, spotting dolphins, otters and bird life along the way.
If you are visiting between July and September, you could try your hand at scalloping. As with the manatee encounter, the best way to behave it to float along the surface but the difference is, if you see a jaunty scallop, dive down and get it!
If you are interested in weird wine, craft beer or just enjoy an adult beverage then head to Copp Winery and Brewery for a tasting. They have a few reds and whites but that’s not the interesting part. This winery is famous for their fruity wines like apple and cranberry. They do wine flights that are a total bargain and beer flights for those that are that way inclined.
Enjoy Dinner at Waterfront Social
The most popular spot in town is a wonderfully chilled out restaurant called The Waterfront Social. When the sky is clearer, it has a great sunset view over the water. Before or after dinner, pop into the attached Tiki bar for an abundance of rum-based cocktails.
The main chunk of the menu at Waterfront Social is seafood and plenty of it! On the starters menu you will find a creamy clam chowder and lots of fishy finger food. The coconut shrimp is seriously juicy and the grouper bites a little better than the gator bites (but less exciting). The crab cakes are densely filled with crab and potato so you are definitely getting your money’s worth.
Then, for mains you could opt for a burger or steak but why would you pass up the chance to savour a blackened grouper or grilled salmon? Everything is served with delicious vegetables and potato (chips or mash), rice or salad so there is something for everyone (that eats fish or meat).
Finally, if you have room for dessert, you cannot beat their amazing peanut butter pie. It’s lighter than you might expect but still pretty rich. For something with a little zing to it, the key lime pie is a Florida classic, executed fabulously.
A watermelon cocktail that LOOKS like a watermelon…such fun! Coconut Shrimp (star of the night) Gator bites which are obligatory if you aren’t from around these partsBlackened grouper with chips and lots of veggies. Crab cakesPeanut butter pie
Final Thoughts for Your Perfect Day in Crystal River
Crystal River is quite a sleepy town but you can have a whale of a time (or is that a manatee)? There is plenty of activities, mostly based around the glorious seaside in the waters that surround it, add to that a few rum cocktails and you have a perfect day in Crystal River!
On our first trip to Morocco, we only saw Marrakesh and Casablanca. I left feeling like we needed to see more of this intriguing country which sits at the edge of Europe. Well, it took us ten years but eventually we rebooked for a trip in February 2023. We planned an itinerary with Gorgeous Morocco Tours to take us to corners that we just wouldn’t have if we had stuck to public transport. Read on to find out what we got up on with our very own private tour.
This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.
Our trip was hosted by Gorgeous Morocco but all opinions are our own.
Day One – Heading South
Walking out to the car park from our hotel in Fez we spotted a silver Toyota Land Cruiser with a man waiting expectantly.
“That must be our ride”
We met our driver Ahmed and hopped straight in, ready for the long day ahead. Fez to Merzouga is a whopping 500km, which would be an all-day drive.
Our First Stop – Ifran
Ifran 1700 km up into the Atlas Mountains, has an international university as the weather is milder than in the rest of the country. The natural aircon allowed students to focus without being a hot and sweaty mess. It has gained the nickname “the Switzerland of Morocco”. We hopped out of the car into the chilly air and had a quick look around the main square. There was a large tour group that was rather hogging the famous lion statue and then one of them actually climbed on it. (It was just like home). The lion represents the lions that used to roam these mountains many years ago. Across the road was a park with a layer of compacted snow. We wandered over to have a look but our slightly inadequate cold weather gear mean that our hands and feet were very quick to turn painful.
We decided to pop into Hotel Charmonix for a quick coffee. It was sweet and hot, just what the doctor ordered. Karl didn’t get any breakfast before we left as we departed before the riad served it. We enquired at the bar as to whether they sold croissants or anything and there was a lot of head wagging and shouting back and forth to other staff. This all seemed pretty negative so we had written the idea off. Just as I finished my coffee,, a plate appeared with a flaky fried flatbread, sesame toast and two slices of loaf cake. We ate most of it and bagged the cake for later. I am glad we did as we were charged handsomely for the plate.
Barbary Apes
Down the road, just a few minutes drive away, we arrived at a famous stop, Azrou Junction, to see the barbary apes. These aren’t actually apes, the name just comes from their lack of tails. They are from the macaque family and are very cute. It was nice to have the chance to see them but sad that they are so used to humans, begging for food. One group of men arrived with a blaring boombox and began to chase the monkeys. I was disgusted at their behaviour and made moves to get back in the car. We left quickly and were soon back in beautiful snowy landscapes that were positively Alpine.
Lunch in Midelt(ish)
We continued on for a couple of hours and then stopped for lunch. I had found a place that was well recommended and didn’t cater to the large tour groups passing by but it was in the town Midelt itself. Ahmed wanted to go to the place that Gorgeous Morocco always uses so we decided to drive by both and then choose. The car pulled up to the large roadside restaurant first (still a long way from the town) and there was a coach outside. As we entered we saw a huge group of Chinese tourists happily tucking in. I wasn’t sure about staying and when I saw the price I was more put off. It was about a third more expensive than it should have been. Mr Fluskey seemed happy with it and Ahmed was content so I agreed to stay.
Karl ordered an omelette which arrived with an array of side dishes. He said it OK but not amazing. To save some pennies and because the strop had dampened my appetite I ordered chips. They were cold and soggy. The olives were fine but I made a mental note to push for what we wanted in the days to come.
A Long Drive
The car passed through fields of snow with hills covered in white rising above into the blue sky. Ahmed asked if we wanted to stop and have some photos with the snowy landscape. Yes! Good plan! I hopped out of the car and stepped onto the snow, only to sink up to the thighs almost instantly. I bent over double, laughing in shock and delight. Mr Fluakey was in so much shock that he didn’t film it but he did manage to get one quick photo.
It seemed like we turned a corner and suddenly the snow were gone, the trees shrunk into little shrubs and the snow was a distant memory. It can’t have been more than a ten minute drive and we were in a rocky world of ridges and boulders. We wound through the hills as I listened to some of my favourite podcasts and Mr Fluskey slept. Time slipped by as the car ate the road ahead.
Er-rachidia Dam
Filled with water from the Atlas Mountains Hassan Ad-dakhil caught my attention from a long way off (or as far as someone with visual impairment can manage). It was nice to see water after such a long stint in the dry and barren hills. We stopped for a quick snap but the wind was starting to chill us down and we quickly hopped back into the warmth of the car.
Arriving at the Desert
Once more the scenery shifted and the hills dropped away, replaced by distant sand dunes. We were approaching our destination of Merzouga on the edge of the Sahara desert. We were booked to stay one night here before exploring the desert the next day with Ahmed. He took us to our small guesthouse and we parted ways until day two rolled around.
Day Two – Erg Chebbi and The Sahara
After a lovely bit of breakfast, we heard the engine coming down the road and rushed to finish getting ready. We needn’t have rushed as our host and Ahmed were happy to share a cup of tea before we left. Ahmed was raised in the next village north of Merzouga and he had planned a day exploring Erg Chebbi and the surrounding area.
We began by driving around Erg Chebbi and the dunes. I was wondering about how the desert was so well defined when other places experience sand creep so badly. These dunes don’t move as there is water in the sand about one metre down. There were lakes here many years ago and this residual moisture keeps them static as a dune can be.
Stop One – Nomadic Camp
Our first stop of the day was on a large, flat area of sand that was well-compacted. Dark tents dotted the area and we appeared to pick one at random. We got out and Ahmed greeted the two cute children that dash4ed up to greet him. This nomad camp was a typical Berber settlement with a collection of tent dwellings for a kitchen, a bread oven, sleeping quarters and another tent for a communal space/living room. There are around 25,000 nomadic people in Morocco, known as Berber or Amazigh, who move where weather, animals or crops dictate throughout the year. This community is spread across much of North Africa.
We had a little look around and then took a seat in the living room where we were given some tea strong with herbs and a little bowl with some irresistible nibbles. It was so interesting to see how the nomadic people of Morocco live, I felt a bit rude as they didn’t join us for tea but the mum was given a little money so I guess it is easy extra income. We asked Ahmed and he visits a different family on each trip. This means the wealth is spread around little.
Stop Two – Abandoned Village
Nearby we arrived at an old French colonial village called M’ifis. It was built to serve the huge mine here (our next stop) as the French were interested in obtaining mineral wealth from this area. When they left in the 1950s, they just left the village behind, with just a few Berbers to work the mine. However, without the machinery the French had owned, it became impossible to work and they too abandoned the village. The buildings were all made of mud and so without regular upkeep, these were reduced to half walls and doorways. There are a couple of military houses and a mosque that still had some residents. It was cool to have a wander around but the level of rubbish that lay around the place was heartbreaking.
Stop Three – Mine
Rising above us on one side was a big hill and this was our next stop. The M’ifis mine is famous for producing delightfully sparkly, pink quartz crystals on one hand and deep black kohl on the other (the black mineral that is turned into eyeliner). As we climbed the hill, I was a little confused that I couldn’t see a giant mine entrance but as we reached the top, it was casually mentioned that the crevice to our side was INCREDIBLY deep. Suddenly, my knees were a little more wobbly. It was easier to stay away from this edge and enjoy the wider view.
Stop Four – Khemlia Village
After descending past the cleaning tanks, we drove through the sand to Khemlia village.
(We saw a camel!)
The population of this small settlement were brought across the desert from Sudan and Mali as slaves. These days, the residents make their living performing the wonderful Gnawa music that is unlike much of the other Arabic-influenced music you may hear in Morocco. We were the only people in the performance area and I felt wildly awkward for a while but then they let me have a go on the metal maracas and it was really fun joining in. When some other tourists came in, we made our exits with lots of thank yous and a tip.
Stop Five – The Camel House
With that, the usual desert tour was over but as Ahmed was local to the area, he took us to see where he lived, Hassilabied. We saw the spring that feeds the town with water that comes from the desert dunes. This allows an oasis-style allotment which looks like a palmeraie Every family in the town has a small plot here to grow plants, fruit or vegetables. The water that passes through all the time is directed to a different section at allotted hours. Everyone knows the roster and it seems like everyone is happy to take turns.
(We saw a frog!)
We head to The Camel House, the guesthouse that Gorgeous Morocco works with in the warmer months. Ahmed’s wife had kindly made us a Berber pizza for lunch. Madfouna is a circular flat bread stuffed with carrot, onion and spices. We enjoyed the chance to soak up the sun. In January, Morocco can be rather chilly and especially in the evenings so we preserved every ray!
The view from the second floor towards the dunes
We chilled out for an hour or two before hopping back into the car and to the edge of the desert for our next adventure.
Stop Six – The Camel Stop
Ahmed Dropped us at the camel stop by Yasmina Hotel and we transferred over to the camel guides taking us over the dunes to our desert camp. Staying in a luxury camp in the desert should be on everyone’s bucket list. It is a really unique experience and if you can take a camel to reach the camp, even better.
We have written a whole review of our Sahara Sky Luxury Desert Camp experience and you can check it out here.
Day Three – Heading West
We met up with Ahmed as he coordinated a perfect pickup. He and Mabarack from Sahara Sky were on the phone together and both drove to the same spot in real time. We jumped back into the Toyota and we got straight on the road. Originally I had wanted to see Rissani’s beautiful gate but we had decided to do a hike in Todra Gorge which meant we wouldn’t have time. Instead, we drove back through Erfoud and headed in the direction of Todra.
There was a quick stop to see a spot that is normally a spot for growing crops and getting well water. It was dry at this particular time of year but we still got to see the foot-powered well. Mr Fluskey had a go and it was much easier than cranking a handle. Humans are clever, aren’t they?!
The Todra Gorge Hike
It was another two hours or so up to the spot that we wanted to hike from and by the time we reached the car park, the sun was warm and pleasant. I had read a blog post that said it was an easy to medium hike would take around 3 to 3.5 hours.
“OK, we can handle that”, we thought to ourselves.
Well, the first bit was a set of stairs and with an easy enough ascent ahead of us we cheerily waved goodbye to Ahmed. The path very quickly became tougher and with a few wrong turns, we were almost immediately behind schedule…according to that blog.
We huffed and puffed our way up for an hour until it was time to sit and have our sandwiches (of course this was bread and laughing cow cheese that we had smuggled away from the breakfast table). I decided to look at the large rock above us and discovered that we were mere steps from the top of the ridge. I should have known, it is always around 100m before we reach somewhere that Mr Fluskeydecides we are going the wrong way or will never make it.
The rest of the walk was much easier but time seemed to be racing by in huge chunks, leaving us further and further behind our projected hike time. We walked through a nomad village up in the rocks (seems like an awfully tricky place to pitch up), down a long stony hill and then to a long ridge that made its way down to town. We grabbed a cold drink and then raced through the gorge and back to the car.
Clearly, we had bitten off more than we could chew!
Exhausted and with filthy feet, we bundled into the back of the car and Karl quickly proceeded to zonk out. We both napped for the next hour or so as we drove through the lengthening shadows towards Dades Valley.
Dades Valley and Skoura
We passed along the road with a lovely view of Dades Valley before driving to the oasis of Skoura.
The sun was nearly totally gone when we arrived. The guesthouse I had booked (a cheap and cheerful choice) was in the oasis rather than the main town area. It was down the road from one of the most luxurious accommodations in Morocco and it had some nice garden photos on the net. The guesthouse was down a winding bumpy track and I was worried that the car wouldn’t fit but luckily, it squeezed through and we found it. It was quite a cold house but at £11 I guess I couldn’t expect any less. They made us a nice hot chicken and green olive tagine for dinner which helped warm us up and Ahmed stayed too which made the morning much easier.
Day Four – Heading North
We were up bright and early, trying to face the morning chill. Brisk action was the best idea and so we were all ready to set off at 08:30.
Kasbah Almeiadi
We drove past Kasbah Almeiadi but it seemed they were filming something big as there was a line of TV trucks outside. The Kasbah is a strikingly beautiful fortress. So gorgeous in fact that it used to be on the 50 dirham note. We were sad not to be able to see inside but I don’t think the crew would have appreciated two tourists wandering into their shot.
If you don’t have “Rock the Kasbah” in your head right now, you are doing something wrong.
Ouarzazate
We got deeper into the heart of Morocco’s Hollywood (Morrywood?) with a stop at Atlas Studios and the attached Oscar Hotel. There is a surprisingly large film business in Morocco and Atlas Studios is actually the largest studio in the world! It houses huge sets like Luxor, Egypt, some large pieces from Gladiator, Disney’s live-action Aladdin and The Mummy. They have also had TV productions including Prison Break and Game of Thrones (I swear, those actors had such a cool tour of the world for that show). Sadly, we weren’t able to take a tour but we poked our noses through the gates and saw some sets and huge props. It would be great to return one day and stay at this cool hotel too.
Ben Aithaddou
Just 20 minutes further north we arrived at Ben Aithaddou. Ben Aithaddou is a fortified village or ksar. It has been here since the 11th century and was a popular stop for caravans to stop before or after they traversed the Atlas Mountains to Marrakesh. The ksar is built up on a hill and overlooks the Ounila river. To enter, traders (and now tourists) need to pass through the gate in the wall and pay a little fee. The village has been maintained and restored as it is a UNESCO world heritage site. Plus, once again, the film industry loves it. We stood in one large area that you might recognise from Gladiator. (We need to rewatch it so we can fan girl a tiny bit). It has also appeared in Lawrence of Arabia, The Living Daylights and Prince of Persia.
We walked over from the modern town where most residents now live and hopped across the river…literally. There is a big bridge but we used the stepping stones. Ahmed had a little hack we entered the village from a different area, avoiding the rest of the tourists. There were some boards showing the films made here and we perused them before heading up the hill to the granary. The view from the top f the hill was 360 and very impressive. We could see the film studios in one direction and in the distance, the snowy top of the Atlas mountains.
The High Atlas
Leaving the flat lands below, we prepared for the long drive north, up and over the mountains. Again, Mr Fluskey went straight to sleep but I was so excited about the snow that I was just sat, face plasered to the window for the whole drive up. The road had a lot of construction and we could see where they were cutting some of the most extreme corners to make the journey a little straighter and easier. It was a slow drive and I am interested to see how fast the trip would be when it is all finished.
At the top of the Atlas we stopped for some photos. It was so, so cold but I loved the snow, cut through with black rock. we managed about five minutes out of the car before we had to jump back into the heating.
On the way back down we had the chance to stop for lunch. There was clearly too much breakfast as we weren’t that hungry. We opted for one portion of chips to share and, unlike the awful chips one day one, these were perfect. I mean, the french had to leave one good thing behind right? There was also another photo stop where we could see over the twisting road as it snaked across the landscape. It was really fun to stand and watch the cars as they appeared and disappeared around the bends.
Marrakesh
As the last two hours of the trip passed by, Ahmed got in touch with Riad Star. He let them know our time of arrival and to check where we needed to go. The road flattened out and all of a sudden we were on the busy streets of Marrakesh. We got out of the car, ensuring we gathered everything before saying our goodbyes to Ahmed.
Final Thoughts on Exploring Morocco with Gorgeous Morocco
Exploring Morocco with Ahmed was a brilliant experience. We were so busy in the day so being able to sit back and enjoy the changing views from the car (or to sleep in Mr Fluskey’s case) was a real treat. Ahmed was a great driver and showed us some cool things we would never have known about. We loved learning about his life in the desert. It took half a day to realise we could just suggest the things we wanted and he would re-jiggle the itinerary to fit as much in as possible.
Even as fans of trains and buses, there is no way we would have seen so much without the private tour. The quality of driving was top notch and the car was big and comfortable (just ask the sleeping Mr Fluskey). We would not hesitate to recommend Gorgeous Morocco Tours and its excellent service so if you are visiting Morocco, look them up!
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