Salzburg, Austria’s Alpine capital, sits astride the Salzach River. The beautiful streets and squares ooze classical charm, and classical music in equal measure. If you only have 2 days in Salzburg, you are still able to see the sights, soak up the culture and even explore some nearby nature. Grab your Salzburg Card and follow this 2 day Salzburg itinerary to see the best of this European gem.
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The Salzburg Card
Some city cards are not worth the price, some are surprisingly lacking in included activities. The Salzburg is NOT one of these. Picking up one of these little beauties will save you plenty of money during your visit to Salzburg. If you have 2 days in Salzburg, choose either the 48 hour (€35) or 72-hour (€45) option, depending on your arrival time. For these prices, you will get unlimited transport included, and this goes all the way out to the Untersberg Cable Car. You won’t need much on the first day of this itinerary but it does include the castle funicular and trust me, that’s worth it for sure.
As well as transport, you will get:
- Free entry to around 20 Salzburg museums.
- Discounted entry to another 30 or so activities/concerts/tours/attractions.
Purchase your Salzburg Card online and you can use the digital card on your phone straight away. Alternatively, you can pick one up at the tourist information offices in Salzburg or at the reception of many hotels. It activates the first time it is used and then you have 48 or 72 hours to cram int he culture.
DAY ONE – Salzburg’s Old Town
Breakfast at Tomaselli Cafe
Start your day right with breakfast at the iconic Tomaselli Cafe. This heritage establishment is Autria’s oldest coffee house, in operation since the 1700s and owned by the Tomaselli family for over 150 years. It is wonderfully traditional with doilies a-plenty, striped awnings dripping in flowers and serving staff attired in black skirts and white frilled aprons. For sunseekers, try and book a table on the first floor balcony, for shade, opt for the ground floor.
It is not all flounces though, the pastries and cakes are delicious and a satisfyingly sweet start to the day. Sat at your table, you can wait for one of the “Kuchendamen” to bring a selection to you. You will also find a large range of very indulgent creamy-topped and liqueur-filled coffees. If you are more into a savoury breakfast, you have options including cooked egg dishes including poached, scrambled, giant, baked omelettes, delicious sausages and cold continental offerings. This is the most relaxed, sundrenched and cheapest time of day to visit so fill your boots.
Stroll Across Mozartsteg (Mozart Bridge)
Take a quick stroll across the Mozart Bridge. This gives you a beautiful vantage of the Salzach River. The river takes its name from the salt that was transported downstream from here, an important export from the area. From the pretty art nouveau bridge, if you look one way, it is all Salzburg’s old town, in the other you get a sense of just how surrounded the city is by nature.
Get Some Context at Salzburg Museum
This small museum is spread across 2 1/2 floors of the Neue Residenz. You’ll find the entrance through the courtyard. It is a great multimedia museum, full of city history told through the lens of the people that lived there. The expiations are unusual in the way they are presented. The main galleries are called, Unique Salzburg and The Salzburg Myth. They have a huge array of artefacts from throughout the city’s history, tied together through stories and themes rather than just a timeline.
Stop to Listen to Salzburger Glockenspiel (Carillon)
Make sure your visit is done and dusted and you are back in the courtyard by 11:00. The clock above you on the tower, puts on a performance at 11:00 (or close to it). The 35 bells play a few tunes to the delight of the watching public (it is much less busy in the courtyard). The huge cylinder can play over a hundred pieces and it is turned by an electric motor now, but was manual, and could still be if they really wanted.
Marvel at DomQuartier
DmQuartier is not just one museum but a collection of varied and beautiful museums to explore. Pick up an audioguide and begin to make your way through the beautiful baroque halls of the Alte Residenz. You will learn about the history of the palace and those who lived there. Then, upstairs there are more rooms but they are lined with beautiful artworks. Residenz Gallery is full of European painters (and the most beautiful radiators).
From here you cross an outdoor bridge that overlooks the square and you will enter Salzburg Cathedral. This is the level with the organ so take a moment to look both ways. There is a small museum up here too with artefacts from the cathedral and other churches around the city. Finally, there is a gallery stuffed full of curiosities. The Chamber of Art and Wonders is presented in a series of cases representing a theme of nature or science (or both). This museum methodology fell out of favour in the 19th century but this is an excellent example of this popular renaissance style.
Be Furst in Line for Your Mozart Chocolate
It is time for a sweet treat.
Salzburg has a very famous son and a very famous confectionary named after him. Mozart chocolates (Mozartkugal) are dark chocolate balls full of marzipan, pistachios and hazelnut nougat. They are rich and filling and the only acceptable way to eat marzipan in my humble opinion. There are plenty of places selling these tasty treats but Paul Fürst was the original inventor of the chocolates in 1890. They are the only producers who still make them by hand (you can tell from the little chocolate nipples on the balls). You can either stop by Cafe Konditorei Fürst or pick up a few from one of their three shops in the Old Town. You can get nice presentation boxes and cute bags but if you are eating them, just ask for individual chocolates and you’ll save some money.
Resist a Dip in the Horse Bath
The Pferdeschwemme may look like a monument to a brave cavalry regiment but it is actually a bath. Now, we don’t mean broncos bathing in bubbles or fillies frolicking in foam, this is more of a dunk tank. In 1603, when horses were the main way of travelling and the hardest workers in the city, they needed to be kept clean. This was especially true for the parade horses owned by prince-archbishops (the guys who lived in the Alte Residenz).
More Treats at Stiftsbackerei St Peter
You’ll find this famous bakery next to a beautiful old water wheel. This bakery was the granary of the nearby St Peter’s Abbey, utilising the flowing water to turn the flour mill. Here you will find extraordinary sourdough, rye packed with caraway and sweet bread studded with raisins, baked using flames as it has been for centuries.
Wander St Peter’s Churchyard
Too pretty to be morbid, the churchyard of St Peter’s is more of an attraction than the chapel itself. The abbey dates back to the 7th century with the original building commissioned by Saint Rupert, the Bishop of Worms (how appropriate for a church built on a famous burial ground). You will find graves here that are over 800 years old but most of the churchyard dates from the 17th century. There are politicians, artists, musicians and other Salzburgers of repute here in tombs, under the arches and with plaques on the church’s exterior wall.
Up above the churchyard, carved in the precipitous Mönchsberg rock, is an ancient church complex. Steep stone stairs lead you up to mausoleums that are thought to have been created up to 1600 years ago. These predate the abbey below The Salzburg Card gets you free entry to this additional, fascinating site.
Head Up the Hill from Festungsbahn
It is possible to walk up to Hohensalzburg Fortress which sits atop the hill but having done it, and in rather a rush, I would recommend the funicular for sure. The Salzburg Card includes a return ride and it goes every ten minutes. It has been whisking people up the slope for over 100 years and although the amazing views haven’t changed, the whole thing was modernised in 2011.
Explore Hohensalzburg Fortress
The Hohensalzburg Fortress is one of Europe’s largest medieval castles (if not one of the prettiest\0 and was constructed by order of the Prince Archbishops all the way back in 1077. There was a fort here even earlier than that, built by the Romans which just goes to show what an amazing defensive position it is. In fact, no enemies have ever managed to conquer the fortress so it really has proven its superiority.
Give yourself a couple of hours to explore the fortress grounds and its museums, most of which are included in the Salzburg Card. Some highlights of the fortress are:
- The Castle Museum walks visitors through the history of the fortress and how it has protected Salzburg through the ages. You’ll see armour, toys and other artefacts that paint a picture of the past here.
- The Puppet Museum celebrates the history of Salzburg’s Marionette Theatre, stringed puppets that can be used to tell funny, sad, intricate stories.
- The Rainer Regiment Museum celebrates the military and specifically the infantry here.
- The Panorama Tour leads visitors right up to the tower (the Reckturm) which has incredible views 360 degrees around the fortress.
- Especially magnificent in the are the Princes’ Hall, Golden Chamber and the Golden Hall. The stunning ceilings and columns are unchanged from the 16th century and still equally astonishing.
The reason we come up here later in the day is to catch the sun setting across the city. There is a huge terrace that has wonderful views out across the skyline and into the mountains beyond. The sun stretches into red rays over the rooftops and sets the river ablaze. There is nowhere else to be for your sunset in Salzburg. Of course, this doesn’t work all year, with closing hours and sunset not quite matching …officially. I have heard many sources describe a gate that allows you to walk down the hill for up to two hours after closing time. As you pass through the gate, it’ll close behind you. The funicular won’t be running so it will be a walk for sure
Down to Dinner in the Old Town
After all that walking, you’ll want a delicious dinner. Choose from one of the many cosy restaurants in the Old Town and savour traditional a healthy helping of Austrian cuisine. Zwettler’s Wirtshaus is an excellent option with a menu packed with Austrian classics you may have heard of and probably a few you haven’t. It is all very hearty so come hungry. This spot has a buzzy, pub-like atmosphere and the staff are really friendly. There is also an extensive beer and wine list and a great Most (cider) too.
DAY TWO – Mountains and Music
Relax in a Traditional Coffee Shop
Cafe Bazar has been serving diners and coffee fanatics alike for over 100 years and this Salzburg institution still going strong. Inside still has the atmosphere of days gone by, you can’t smell the pipe smoke but somehow you know it was there. Daily newspapers hang from a wooden stand and the wooden panels, and marble table tops with dark cast iron legs are timeless. You can sit inside and soak up the atmosphere or head out to the sunny area by the riverside. The menu is full of breakfast options and there is a cabinet full of cakes to be sliced and devoured. Personally, I very much enjoyed the hty coffees with cream and a boozy shot. but for this time in the morning, there are lots of less alcoholic options. Autria has its own names for popular coffees and those in the know opt for a Melange.
Bear in mind that Cafe Bazar doesn’t open until 09:00 on Sunday so you may struggle to get this whole day in if you decide this is one not to be missed.
From here, hop on the number 25 to reach the last stop on the route.
Up Up and Away on the Untersberg Cable Car
45 minutes on a bus from most city centre train stations will leave you in a grey suburb but not so with Salzburg. Instead, you will be at the foot of a cable car rising 1,320 m to the top of the mountain. The trip takes eight and a half minutes and affords visitors stunning views over the grey fields and grey rock of the surrounding area. At the top, the view is even more spectacular as it opens up 360°. The vistas across the Alps are striking and it feels a million miles away from the city.
If you are feeling short of time, or particularly hot/cold then you can hot foot it up to the top and back down in time to catch the next descending cable car. If you fancy a little longer, or to grab a coffee at the cafe then you add another 30 minutes. Bear in mind that each cable car takes 50 passengers and the ticket machines count them down so be in the queue in good time if it’s busy. It’s also good to remember that the terrain is a bit rocky so a decent pair of shoes would be good. (I visited in ballet flats and it was a little uncomfortable to walk).
Garden Giggles at Schloss Hellbrunn
Taking the number 25 bus back towards Salzburg, make sure to disembark at Schloss Hellbrunn. This attraction is only open from 31st March to 1st November so skip it if it is winter.
The sunshine yellow Helbrunn palace is a baroque delight. Included in your Salzburg Card is a ticket for both the house and the closed-off area of the gardens, which you shouldn’t miss! In our opinion, the highlight has to be the beautiful, intriguing and downright cheeky trick fountains,A visit to the fountains takes around 50 minutes with the audioguide and it is such fun. Prince Archbishop Sittikus had these silly spouts created in 1689 to entertain his guests. Fountains playfully squirt at (and occasionally soak) visitors. If you are visiting on a cooler day, bring waterproofs or a change of clothes. Amidst the fountains, you’ll find some very irreverent jokes and some water automats, water-controlled scenes and models that move when the water is activated. Don’t miss the musical mechanical theatre which is utterly charming. The rest of the park is free to visit and has plenty to see too, little castles and other mini theatres await discovery.
Inside Schloss Hellbrunn is a cool permanent exhibition about Prince-Archbishop Markus Strittikus, the ruler behind the palace and its gardens. Grab another audioguide and a visit here will take about 30 minutes. In one room, they have a spinning seat you can hop on and take everything in whilst resting your feet.
When you are ready to leave, catch the 25 back towards Salzburg and disembark at Salzburg Makartplatz.
Hang Out in a Beer Garden for Lunch
Salzburg has a few beer gardens of note but the best has to be Sternbrau. You’ll find it through an archway, leading off from the popular, pedestrianised shopping street Getreidegasse. This pub/restaurant has 11 rooms and 3 gardens to relax in. If you’re not that hungry or want to try lots of dishes, opt for the tapas-style restaurant (it’s all Austrian). If it is warm then opt for the large courtyard. The old chestnut trees, lively atmosphere and casual self-service really make this a convivial spot for lunch. You will obviously find plenty of beer in the biergarten. They have craft beers from plenty of local suppliers, but we recommend the pint brewed for Stern themselves. You can get anything from a salad to a full pork knuckle, hearty roast pork roll and pasta dishes.
A Musical Afternoon
Vienna is inextricably linked to music. Classical composers Haydn, Mozart, Strauss and Liszt all lived there. Then, musical theatre composers Rodgers and Hammerstein brought the city to a whole new generation of music fans when they created The Sound of Music. For our musical afternoon, we have two suggestions one classical, and one theatrical.
Option A.) Meet More of Mr Mozart
Salzburg’s connection to Mozart doesn’t just extend to his face on chocolates. The prodigy first explored the world of music in Salzburg. For any Mozart fans, these two attractions are a must see:
Mozart’s Birthplace
Mozart was born in Salzburg in 1756. His childhood home, Hagenauer Haus is just down the road from Sternbrau at 9 Getreidegasse. His family owned it for 26 years and his parents and talented sister stayed here when they were in Salzburg. Inside you will find an exhibition full of unique Mozart family possessions. There’s a series of rooms reconstructed as they would have been during their residence and a temporary exhibition that changes yearly. A highlight has to be Mozart’s very own instruments.
Mozart’s Residence
Dance Master’s House on Marketplatz was Mozart’s address for 14 years from 1773-87. The spot got its name from the gentleman who offered young ladies dance lessons to prepare them for court. It would be terrible to try a quadrille when your partner is going to gavotte! In the pretty, bright rooms are lots more musical artefacts including Mozart’s very own pianoforte and original family portraits. The museum’s beautiful flooring and incredible condition are due to extensive refurbishments following serious damage during WWII.
Now, I don’t want to burst any bubbles but Mozart wasn’t actually a massive fan of the city. In fact, he was known to drag it!
” I hate Salzburg. There isn’t a penny’s worth of stimulation in this town”.
Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart
Option B.) Take The Original Sound of Music Tour
Did you know that Rodgers and Hammersmith’s musical The Sound of Music was based on a real family Von Trapp and a real Maria? Well, Salzburg is full of sights you may recognise from the film version made in 1965. For fans of this most famous movie musical, and a few unwilling partners, The Original Sound of Music Tour is a must-do. The coach will take you from Salzburg to nearby sights that you will recognise from the film including the gazebo from “I am sixteen, going on seventeen”, the church they used for the Von Trapp wedding and the lake the children fell into. Along the way, you will learn some fun facts and enjoy a bit of a singalong. The lake at Montsee is a lush spot to relax but you’ll have to leave most of the group behind as they stay in the coffee shops near the town.
For a full review of the Original Sound of Music Tour, check out our post all about it here.
Meander the Mirabell Gardens
The last stop on The Sound of Music tour is the Mirabell Gardens. So whether you end here with the tour, or wander up independently, they are worth a trip.
The gardens of Mirabell Palace are a beautiful place for a walk. They have been have had three major redesigns in 1689, 1730 and 1913, each leaving a stam on the greenery. In the same way, the Palace has also been rebuilt several times. The neoclassical palace you see now dates from 1818 and houses the office of the Mayor of Salzburg. As you take a walk, some things to look for include:
- Dwarf Statues – Carved in 1715, these creepy little statues were modelled after real court entertainers, peasants from the town and other local characters.
- Pegasus Fountain – This pretty statue of the famous winged horse has been here since 1913,
- The Do Re Mi Steps – These stairs would be unremarkable without the famous scene from The Sound of Music where the children ended the big Do Re Mi number.
- Rose Garden – Pretty and delightfully perfumed.
Walk the Salzach
The stretch of Salzach River between Staatsbrucker and Eisenbahnbrücke is a popular place to relax on a sunny, summer’s evening. There are places to perch on one stretch and a beach of sorts. You’ll find teenagers strumming guitars, little kids playing in the sand and big kids paddling. Grab a bottle of Gruner Veltliner (Austrian white wine) or a beer and watch the sky turn golden.
Take in a Classical Concert
Every evening, classical musicians throughout Salzburg prepare to earn their dinner money. There are lots and a lot of small concerts, especially focused on local performers (and Mozart most of all). Some include dinner, some are in the iconic spots we have seen throughout the day and some come with puppets! You will find your perfect show through a ticket site like Viator or Get Your Guide.
Final Thoughts on Your 2 Days in Salzburg
With 2 days in Salzburg, you can truly soak up a sense of this magical city and its unique blend of history, music, and beauty. From the majestic Hohensalzburg Fortress overlooking the rooftops to the city’s musical legacy, every corner exudes a timeless charm. Plus, anywhere you can eat a chocolate with Mozart’s face on it has to be a bit special right?
Rosie xx
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