Tag: Andaman and Nicobar Islands

Explore our travels around India’s beautiful Andaman and Nicobar Islands at Port Blair and Havelock Island

  • Picnics, Parakeets & Pools – Our Activities at Barefoot, Havelock

    Picnics, Parakeets & Pools – Our Activities at Barefoot, Havelock

    Barefoot at Havelock isn’t just a luxury property on Havelock Island. It is also has a deep respect for the nature that surrounds it. A swath of reserve forest lies between the accommodation and Radhanagar Beach and this is home to many of the resort’s activities. Join us as we experience some of the coolest activities at Barefoot, Havelock

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    Barefoot, Havelock

    Havelock Island used to be a backpacker secret but the secret is out and many more travellers are starting to discover it’s beauty. Developing along with the visitors, Barefoot at Havelock has evolved from simple beach huts on a banana plantation to a luxury eco resort that caters to a more affluent clientele.

    Check out this blog post for our full review of Batefoot, Havelock

    The Night Walk

    Our first activity started after dark. After handing out torches, our naturalist guide, the excellent Reuben, led us to the edge of the reserve wood. The night air was warm and flies skittered across our torch beams. With senses on high alert (there are snakes on Havelock and I am pretty paranoid about them) we started making our way along the path into the woods.

    Almost immediately, Mr Fluskey spotted a large huntsman spider a little way into the brush. Then, something shifted and we saw the first of many crabs. Turns out, the forest is a home to thousands of crabs as they search for a sheltered nights sleep.

    In all, we spend about two hours exploring and discovering hermit crabs, robber crabs (which seem similar but are bigger), ghost crabs that are the same colour as the champagne coloured sand on the beach, and some cool insects.

    Breakfast with The Birds

    Birding

    Heading back into the reserve forest felt so different with the sun up and the birds singing. No longer jumping at every leaf shifting felt like a whole new experience. This time, instead of torches, we were armed with cameras and binoculars. For this tour, we were joined by a mum and her son, who was about six years old. He took some coaxing but when he found what everyone was talking about, he was adorably excited.

    Now, many birdwatchers can be identified by their HUGE camera lenses, and it became clear why. Our phones, both of which claim to have excellent zooms simply couldn’t cope. Luckily, our guide Reuben had kindly brought his camera and immense lens so I could look at the photos. His kind that he remembered how blind I am from the night before and made allowances. We walked slowly through the forest, stopping to scope out the birds high up in the trees. It was all rather calming. We spotted:

    • Bright green parakeets
    • Emerald doves
    • A white-bellied seagull
    • Green imperial pigeons
    • Two kingfishers

    Now, I grew up at the seaside in the UK (Brighton to be precise) and seagulls are a menace. Giant bullies of a bird, they live on my parents roof and steal chips from unsuspecting tourists at the beach. It was so weird to have someone who was thrilled to see a seagull. Similarly, the excitement over the Green imperial pigeons made me laugh every time. Yes, I know they aren’t the same as the grey scourge of cities across Europe but I have never met anyone over the age of four that has said the word “pigeon” with an excited glint in their eyes. My favourite spot was the kingfisher, it was close enough for me to make out through the binoculars, was really beautiful and is such an Indian icon.

    Breakfast Time

    We were guided to two separate tables, set for breakfast. The young guy on the tour was a bit crestfallen when he realised the birds weren’t going to come and join him for the meal. He was hoping to live his best Dr Doolittle, Tiki Room life. We were given the Swimming Elephant menu to choose from and I was thrilled to see masala dosa. This is siced potato, wrapped in a thing, crispy gram flour and rice pancake. It was served with three tasty chutneys, with the coconut being my favourite. Mr Fluskey opted for more Western option but he was disappointed when his scrambled egg went cold quickly in the sea breeze. The whole thing was served with an abundance of fruit, far more than we could get through. This was a lovely way to start the day.

    Picnic at a Special Spot

    Still rather full from breakfast, we made our a little further along the beach for our special picnic. I wasn’t sure what to expect but we found another table, set up, facing the waves. This spot is really special to Barefoot. The owner even renewed his wedding vows here. Under a small canopy of trees, with a beautiful view of the beach, it is a magical location to relax.

    We were given the Swimming Elephant menu again, along with the bar menu so of course, lunchtime cocktails had to happen. Being so close to the sea, seafood had to happen as well!

    We ordered some giant prawns and a little seafood selection that included local catch of the day, squid and yet more prawns. We got some fries to go with them and it came with salad too. Again, we definitely overordered but it was all cooked well and full of flavour. It must be said, the fries were great too. We spend a happy hour picking through our lunch and enjoying the solitude of the beachside spot.

    Elephant Beach

    The Trek

    Elephant Beach used to be a hidden gem on Havelock island. Intrepid travellers took the 45 minute trek through the woods to reach its pristine white sand and turquoise waters. It has now been discovered and boats run from the other side of the island all morning. However, Barefoot can arrange an escorted walk which will let you arrive before the crowds. The trek is very manageable, even for us unfitties.

    Our Time at Elephant Beach

    We had the blissful scene all to ourselves for about 10 minutes. We wandered around enjoying the peace and marvelling at the incredible water full of fish. However, minutes later, boat after boat started to arrive, disgorging hoards of people, all intent on having that very same experience. Huge water inflatables thronged the beach and jet skis tore through the waves.

    Yes, we did have a turn on the jet ski and it was lots of fun, but the whole thing served as a reminder not to believe everything we see Instagram.…and that it’s worth waking up early to do the trek if you want that moment all to yourself. We also took a quick snorkel around the reef right on the beach. The fish were plentiful but the coral was suffering a lot of bleaching. I think we ever make it back, we will invest in a deeper reef snorkel or dive trip.

    Dinner in the Wilderness

    The Set Up

    Another special dining experience you can take is the Dinner in the Wilderness. Another variation of this is the same kind of set up by the beach. Either way, an array of candles and multi-coloured lanterns are laid out to create a romantic space, perfect for a date night.

    Our Dinner

    The food served is once again from the Swimming Elephant. Mr Fluskey was thrilled as it allowed him to have the delicious prawn, cashew and tender coconut curry that was so very, very good! For startes we had some fantastic spiced prawns, and more local grilled fish. Both of these were fresh and bursting with flavour, the prawns in particular. For mains, I opted for the chicken malai, tender chicken simmered in a sauce full of nut paste, mild spices and cream. I think I had eaten too much that day as it felt so rich and I couldn’t finish the dish….it may have been down to scoffing the garlic naan and prawns too though.

    Rock Pooling

    If you remember crouching in the edge of the rocks, plastic bucket and mini net in hand then you might think you know what rock pooling is. Well, on the Andaman Islands it looks a little different. This is essentially reef exploration without putting you face underwater. The earthquake of 2005 which caused the dreadful tsunami, raised a reef up to near the surface and it is an ideal home for young sea creatures.

    A Natural Aquarium

    We slowly waded through the water and eagle-eyed Prathamesh pointed out the coolest sea life. Reefs are like nurseries for the sea. Tiny fish spend their teenage years here before venturing out o the wider ocean. If you’ve seen Finding Nemo, you get it. In fact, if you have seen Finding Nemo then you would be as excited as we were to see the clown fish, living skittishly in the anemones. We also caught glimpses of a cool nudibranch (pronounced noo-dee-brank), a little shell-less mollusc. We also saw several sea cucumbers, a a lurking lion fish and loadsof colourful clams. Sadly we had to leave to catch the ferry or I would have happily spent another hour peering into the water at the cool fish around us.

    Other Activities

    Here are some of the other things on offer that we didn’t have a chance to try:

    • Scuba and Snorkelling – This is offered by Barefoot Scuba that are associated but not the same compny as the hotel. The reps can be found at the lobby every night just after sunset and can book deep snorkelling, scuba fun dives, scuba courses and free diving.
    • Tree Walk – Exploring the property, you will learn all about how Barefoot was replanted with the trees that are native to the area after many years a banana plantation.
    • Kayaking -This can be organised during the day or for sunrise. This is especially exciting when it is a new moon as you might be able to see the natural bioluminescence that exists in these waters.
    • Game Fishing – You can try your hand at catching a biggun!
    • Paddle Boarding -Stand up paddle boarding is a relaxed and fun way to traverse the ocean. You stand on a large stabilised board (it looks like a surf board) and sedately glide across the surface of the water (at least, that’s the plan).
    • Body Boarding – Taking a body board, or boogy board, you surf the waves into the beach.
    • Trail Biking – Tearing up the island on muddy trails by bike is an eciting way to eplore the interior.
    • A Boat Ride – You can charter a boat for a relaxing sunset cruise.

    Final Thoughts on Our Activities at Barefoot, Havelock

    It was amazing to get up close and personal with the flora and fauna of Barefoot and the Andamans. It is such a shame we didn’t have more time so we could see even more. If you are visiting then these activities give invaluable information and a greater appreciation of the location you are immersed in. Thank you for such a brilliant time, and especially to the naturalist guides who were patient, fun and so knowledgeable. You were superstars!

    Rosie xx

  • 5 Romantic Reasons to Take a Havelock Island Honeymoon

    5 Romantic Reasons to Take a Havelock Island Honeymoon

    Soft white sand, rosy sunsets and peacock blue seas, Havelock (Swaraj Dweep) has everything you could dream of as a tropical getaway. Add to this the abundance of activities designed for adventure and romance and you have the perfect honeymoon destination. Here are our 5 reasons to take a Havelock Island Honeymoon.

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    1 – Havelock has Beautiful Beaches

    The sand on Havelock Island is pale champagne gold, burnished daily by the sunset and lapped by clear, turquoise waves. There are three main beaches to visit:

    Radha Nagar

    Radhanagar Beach is always included on the list of the top beaches in Asia. Sometime it makes the best in the world. Suffice to say, this six kilometre long, stretch of sand is stunning! There is a popular area at the east end of the beach, with more private areas further along. You’ll find street snack stalls, shops, cafes and changing/toilet facilities. It might seems like you have to stay in this spot but the whole thing is actually open to the public. If you are visiting from the the east end, walk the paths through the trees and you can reserve on a much quieter spot. This beach is especially popular at sunset as it dips behind the western edge. Swimming stops after the sun disappears but you can float in the gentle waves until then.

    Govinda Nagar

    On the opposite side of the island, near the popular guesthouses around, is Govindanagar. again, here you’ll find facilities for changing, toilets, stalls and shops. This beach is much thinner so you may have to walk along to find a quiet spot where you lay your towels.

    Elephant Beach

    If you visit Elephant Beach, there is an array of water activities on offer. For real thrill seekers, there are loads of inflatables that are whizzed around by speedboats. They also have jet skis. You can’t drive the jet skis yourselves but a willing driver will give you a fast zip around the bay which is so exciting! You don’t need to worry about damaging the jet ski (a common way to make money in many a beach resort) and can just enjoy the ride. Snorkelling trips leave from here or you can just snorkel the reef that is just off the beach too. Don’t worry if you aren’t a strong swimmer, some tours have rubber rings to keep you afloat.

    Alternatively, you can have a beautifully relaxing day by just walking along the beach. You won’t be close to the facilities but you will also lose the crowds. Walk five minutes away and you will have a huge stretch of sand entirely to yourselves. It is much more romantic.

    2 – Havelock is Affordable

    Of course, this is all relative. As with everything, you can only afford it if you can afford it. However, when compared with the world’s top honeymoon destinations, Havelock and the Andaman and Nicobar Islands in general are incredibly cheap.

    Travelling from India, the domestic flights are so much cheaper than travelling by to another country and although there is a bump in price (“island tax”), you won’t find it much more expensive than an major Indian city.

    If you are coming from a place with a stronger currency, things will seem amazingly affordable. Here are a few examples;

    • A beer in a regular bar: ₹200
    • A cocktail in a swanky bar: ₹450 – 550
    • A main dish at the popular Full Moon Cafe: ₹200 – 350
    • A fun, hour-long snorkel at Elephant Beach: ₹1500
    • A basic but well rated guesthouse room: ₹4000
    • A well appointed economist resort like Barefoot: ₹14000
    • The Taj Exotica (by far the fanciest place on Havelock): ₹40000

    Compare these prices to other popular spots like the Maldives where a cocktail will cost around £18

    3 – Havelock has Romance Built In

    Search “Havelock Island honeymoon” on any search engine and you will find innumerable companies offering “the perfect package”. They really know how to build a blissful honeymoon on Havelook.

    If you are staying in a nice hotel/resort, there is no doubt they can arrange a private dinner. Some have beach access and here, you can sit by the sand and listen to the waves. Others can just find you a quiet spot around the resort where you can dine alone, surrounded by candles and lanterns. Barefoot at Havelock offers beach dining, wilderness dining and a lunch by the beach. We tried them all and had a wonderful, relaxing time as a couple.

    Check out our full Barefoot at Havelock Island review

    4 – Havelock has Pretty Great Weather

    November – April

    Being a tropical region, there are clear days and some rainy days throughout this period. The driest months are January to March and the hottest months are March and April. For the very best chance at perfect weather, January and February are your best bet. Of course, if you are coming from anywhere in Europe or the north of North America, any time in winter is going to feel fantastic, giving you an escape from the cold,

    May – October

    Sitting as it it does, in the Bay of Bengal, monsoon does affect Havelock. However, that doesn’t mean constant rain all day every day. You will find patches of sunshine and blue skies between showers. The rainiest months are June to August with an average of 19 days with some rain. It will be hot and humid and sometimes it will rain. Plus, the sea will be rougher and you may not be able to swim. If this doesn’t bother you then you are golden. If you like to swim, make sure you book a hotel with a pool and you can swim in the rain to your hearts content.

    Taken in March on a rain free six day trip.

    5 – Havelock is an Adventure

    A honeymoon in the Andaman and Nicobar islands isn’t just a “fly and flop” for most people. There are three main islands that people like to visit for at least a day. To travel between them, you need to catch public ferries. This is all part of the fun. You can get all your tickets booked in advance (we used and loved Go2Andaman.com) so there is no need to stress. On the day, go to the office and reconfirm and then it is time to climb aboard and relax for your boat ride across the Andaman Sea.

    There is so much to do in the Andaman & Nicobar islands. On your way to Havelock, you will be flying to Port Blair. Before you travel on to Havelock, stay a night or two here. Port Blair has some cool little museums so you can learn about the history of the area, and the nature of the islands. Plus, a trip to Ross Island and the Cellular Jail are an absolute must.

    Then, even on the relaxing island of Havelock, there is an abundance of nature adventures to enjoy. You can take a trek through the forest and if you have a guide with you, you can do some natural wondering. Whether you are into bird watching, critter and crab spotting or rock pooling for pretty sea life, there are options for everyone. You can also try so many water sports. If it is a new moon, you can join a kayak tour and see if you can spot the natural bioluminescence in the waves. It is so exciting. You could gpo snorkelling together. Floating above the coral, holding hands and spotting pretty little fish is so relaxing. If you are after a rush, try one of the crazy speedboat inflatables. Sitting next to your loved one on a giant inflatable sofa, as you bounce and laugh over the waves is a really fun thing to share together.

    Final Thoughts on Our 5 Romantic Reasons to Take a Havelock Island Honeymoon

    If you are travelling for a Havelock Island Honeymoon with a loved one, you will find plenty of special moments. We visited on a normal holiday but even that was romantic. It would be a brilliant honeymoon destination, or a place to renew your vows, or just reconnect with a partner. It has all the tropical vibes you need, a price tag that many can afford and a touch of the rough and ready to share a giggle over. I would plan my own Havelock island honeymoon but that would mean getting remarried, and I don’t think Mr Fluskey would approve.

    Rosie xx

  • 10 Places to Visit in Port Blair for the Perfect Port Blair Itinerary

    10 Places to Visit in Port Blair for the Perfect Port Blair Itinerary

    For most people, Port Blair is the entry point for the Andaman and Nicobar Islands. Domestic flights arrive from the big cities of India, and with a shiny new international airport, more tourists will soon flood into the city. Before hopping on a ferry to Havelock Island or another popular island, take some time to enjoy Port Blair itself. Here are 10 places to visit in Port Blair for the perfect Port Blair itinerary.

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    If you are continuing your adventure in the Andaman and Nicobar Islands then check out the best place to book ferry tickets, accommodation and more, Go2Andaman

    1 – Keep it Cheap at Excel Restaurant

    Located on the roof of a hostel, this relaxed eatery is a wonderful option for those travelling on a budget. The seating is comfortable, the décor is full of funny signs and pretty paintings and the music that ranges from Ibiza chill to Indian raga. They have a decent selection of local dishes, as well as Nepalese momos (very tasty) and beer if you ask. Just be wary, some dishes include onion when not stated on the menu (this includes the marguerita pizza). If you aren’t a fan, best to make sure. The food is prepared fresh so it isn’t the quickest place to eat, but the friendly staff, convivial atmosphere make this a lovely, lazy evening.

    2 – Go Back in Time at Ross Island

    A quick boat ride from Port Blair is Ross Island (recently renamed as Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose Island but still widely referred to as Ross Island). This island, abandoned to nature, was once home to the British ex-pats that called the Andamans home. There was an officers club complete with teak dancefloor, a church, barracks and Commissioner’s mansion. They were hit by a huge earthquake in 1941 and then quickly vacated when the Japanese invaded in 1942. The island was occupied by Japanese forces before it was taken over by rhe Indian navy, and finally became open to the public for tours. Visitors can explore the dilapidated buildings, overgrown with roots or hot foot it to the striking lighthouse. You can also meet the spotted deer (chital). They bow just like the famous deer in Nara but they were actually introduced by the British as they missed game hunting.

    To get to Ross Island, make your way to Aberdeen Jetty. You need to put your name down at the small table and wait for a few others to fill the boat’s seats. Be mindful that the time you are quoted includes waiting for your boat to arrive. We were the first people to sign up for the day but the fourth boat to leave. When you arrive, you can join a golf buggy tour which will whisk you to the other side of the island, giving you time to go down to the lighthouse. We opted to walk and only got a shot of it from above but had time to explore the empty buildings all to ourselves.

    3 – Samudrika Naval Marine Museum

    This slightly eclectic, but mostly marine-themed museum is a short drive from the Aberdeen Clock Tower. There are five main rooms as well as some side areas and a pretty central courtyard. Some of our favourite things are:

    • The room which discusses the geography and ethnographic groups that inhabit the islands. There was loads of info in this room and the air con was super too.
    • The mini aquarium with some fish local to the area and a rather superb sea cucumber.
    • The large naval guns in the courtyard.
    • The room full of beautiful shells. The pearlescence was stunning.

    You will probably be here for 45-60 minutes, depending on whether you take the chance to sit in the shaded chairs or not. Don’t forget to ring the bell on your way out.

    4 – Fisheries Aquarium

    A small, three room aquarium that isn’t going to give most around the world a run for their money. However, it will be a hit with small children and is a cheap attraction. Bear in mind that taking pictures costs extra, as with many sights in India, but it is small enough that they might actually notice.

    The aquarium is a nice way to see the local sea life if you aren’t comfortable swimming or snorkelling. You can opt to have a guide and they can help bring it all to life with fun stories and facts. Some of the space is given over to preserved coral and sealify curiosities which are nice to see but disappointing in an aquiarium where you expect the majority of the exhibits to be alive. Oberall, this is a good diversion which will help cool you off for half an hour or so.

    Finally, let’s address the elephant in the room. There is a sign that reads, “Fisheries Museum cum Aquarium”. No giggling please, we are all adults here.

    5 – Delve Into a Dark History at the Cellular Jail

    Built by the British to house Indian citizens that broke the law or fought for independence in the early 1900s, this classic star-shaped prison was home to some rather brutal practices.

    Purchase your ticket in the booth on the far left hand corner before you head for the main door. Everyone floods into the two air conditioned rooms at the entrance that depict the history of the prison and some of the prisoners that were kept here. We think it is best to visit these just before you leave. You will want to savour the air on after the hit visit and before heading back outside.

    Visitors have a chance to explore the two wings still standing. One has been beautifully resorted, the other is a little more weathered. Around the well-manicured grounds you will see recreations and explanations of the torturous treatment of the prisoners and two eternal flames celebrating freedom fighters. Seek out the cell on the top floors of in the lesser-restored wing, the home of

    6 – Return to the Jail for the Light and Sound Show

    The Cellular Jail has a fantastic projection mapped light show that tells the story of the jail. Rousing music and effective storytelling make this one of the better light shows on offer. The whole thing ends in a stirring rendition of the Indian national anthem. All in all, it’s a very impressive show.

    The show happens several times a night in Hindi and three times a week in English. Indian citizens will find it easy to book in advance (and yes, this does sell out) through the Andaman E-Tourist website. So far, so good BUT now comes the tricky bit. You need an Indian credit card to book tickets online and you cannot book them in person. We have scoured the internet to find a way to do it for international visitors and think that Dekho Andaman’s tour that includes a pick up and drop off might be the only way.

    7 – Seafood and Beer at New Lighthouse Restaurant

    For a great value seafood feast, you can’t beat the Lighthouse. This double level restaurant is located near the Aberdeen Jetty and is open late. There is a large menu or local and “oriental” dishes. You can also order a selection of seafood from the live options on the ground floor. We saw two huge lobsters which were very tempting. Don’t skip on the biryani which is utterly delicious. If you don’t like spice, try the korma which is one of the only kormas we have found that made Mr Fluskey happy. It is full of all kinds of surprising goodies. When you order, the waiter will offer you a beer. If you fancy some, they come in big, ice cold bottles so don’t try and get ahead by ordering lots at once.

    In terms of seating, upstairs is breezy and cooler helped by several fans. Smoking is only allowed downstairs so if you want a cigarette with your seafood, the stuffy ground floor is where you will be sitting.

    8 – Hit the Beach at Corbyn’s Cove

    At first glance, Port Blair just seems like a city on the water, but with no public access to the water. However, just a pretty 30 minute drive south of the main city is Corbyn’s Cove. This sweep of golden sand, backed by palm trees is picture perfect…if you arrive very early in the morning. At that time you can have it to yourself for a little while. Arriving later in the afternoon and you will see that it has become a hive of beach activity. Of course, it is still gorgeous, just less postcard perfect as the footsteps of visitors, and receding tide leave it looking a little beaten up later in the day.

    At Corbyn’s Cove Beach you will find vendors selling drinks and snacks, fresh coconuts and maggi. There are washrooms and toilets and watersports galore. For the thrill seekers, options include jetskiing, power boat rides and parasailing. You can swim from the beach or just relax in the dappled shade by the trees, taking in the atmosphere.

    9 – Sip a Sundowner at Amaya

    Amaya at the top of the Seashell Hotel is the nicest place in town for a drink or some dinner. It does come with a bigger bill than many local spots (cocktails are 400 – 770) but the drinks are very good and it is such a super spot to see the sky turn red. You can reserve a table on the balcony but they do have space for walk ins if you arrive early. Service levels here are to good international levels with courteous and professional staff. The ambience is cool with some great music to enjoy.

    The food is also some of the best and most hygienic in town with plenty of options from India and around the world. They are especially known for their excellent touch with fresh seafood and a good range of international style vegetarian food.

    10 – Explore Mount Harriet National Park

    If you haven’t had your fill of British ruins from Ross Island then head to Mount Harriet (now officially called Mount Manipur National Park). The remains of a British summer house, perch atop a high hill giving incredible views. Once home to the high commissioner, it was named after his wife, Harriet. It is a haven for wildlife which in turn, makes it great for photography. Keep your eyes peeled for wild pigs, robber crabs, and turtles that have all been spotted here. Landscape snappers and wildlife clickers will both be very happy here with almost 400 kinds of plants, 90 species of bird and a plethora of butterflies all enhancing the gorgeous views of the coast. Remember that using the camera does incur an extra cost.

    You can take a ferry to Mount Harriet from Chatham Wharf on the Northern tip of Port Blair. The journey takes around 45 minutes. Alternatively, you can travel by road but this takes about 2 hours. You can drive almost all the way to the summit but you can hike up if you want as there are plenty of trails. If you do take a trek, wear long trousers, wear plenty of deet and carry lots of water. Stay alert for insects, snakes and other harmful animals. It may be best to hire a guide so they can help with this and the navigation. Plus, they can point out the view of the lighthouse that used to be on 20 rupee note.

    Final Thoughts on Our 10 Places to Visit in Port Blair

    Port Blair isn’t a spot to stay for a week, but over a day or two you can have a lovely time, eat some great food and learn all about the Andaman and Nicobar Islands. From here, head for the islands and relax on the sand for a couple of days. You will appreciate them all the more once you know how India fought for them.

    If you are continuing your adventure in the Andamans then check out the best place to book ferry tickets, accommodation and more, Go2Andaman

    Rosie xx

  • A Bed in Andaman & Nicobar – A Barefoot at Havelock Review

    A Bed in Andaman & Nicobar – A Barefoot at Havelock Review

    The Andaman & Nicobar Islands in India are undergoing a rapid change. As tourism increases, once secret beaches are being discovered and more guesthouses pop up. If you want a slice of the real Andaman & Nicobar then visit Barefoot at Havelock. They are a truly sustainable property, that has developed organically from their backpacker roots amidst rewilded tropical forest and just minutes from Havelock Island’s most incredible beach, Radhanagar. Read on for our full Barefoot at Havelock review.

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    During our stay, we got to try out some of Barefoot’s many activities but there were so many, we have decided to pop them in a separate post.

    Check out Picnics, Parakeets & Pools – Our Activities at Barefoot, Havelock

    Barefoot at Havelock Resort’s Location

    Radhanagar Beach is one of Asia’s most stunning stretches of sand. The sand is soft and white, lapped by blue water and backed by green forest. It’s truly a beautiful beach, picture perfect with a slow sloping descent into the water, making it family friendly too.

    Hidden just two minutes back from the tree line is the Barefoot at Havelock resort. The area Barefoot sits within used to be a banana tree plantation but over the past two decades, the owners have put considerable effort into replanting endemic species of plants and trees to repopulate the forest.

    A Look Around Barefoot at Havelock

    The Lobby

    On arrival, we were offered comfy seats in the bar area of the lobby, along with cooling towels. The fans were already doing a pretty good job of keeping us cool. Looking up at the wooden structure, I was so impressed. Apparently the architect is Swiss which you could never guess from its Bali-esque vibes.

    Before entering the building, guests are required to remove their shoes, upholding the resorts name, Barefoot. There is a small foot washing station, which is also found at the restaurant and each room as well. Looking at the reception desk, the hub of the resort, there is a small gift shop on the left and the bar on the right. Up the stairs is a mezzanine level with low seating and a small library.

    The Room

    Down rocky paths and tree slice stepping stones (bring some sandals with sturdy soles) you will find 31 rooms. They have tented cottages, duplex cottages, villas and one special room designed by a Sri Lankan architect. They are all the epitome of barefoot luxury with natural materials, designed to integrate with the pretty surroundings.

    Our Tented Cottage

    I wasn’t sure what to expect from something called a tented cottage, but it turns out it was a beautiful thatched roof with a thick canvas tent beneath. The material was decorated with pretty prints which gave it a sense of place.

    Under our canopy we had a nice outside seating area. There was a bench, complete with umbrella that we could use if it rained. There were also two deck chairs but with the beach so near, we didn’t use it. What we did use, was the foot washing station. This dealt with the age old problem of bringing the beach sand into your bed by mistake. We managed to keep our room sand free.

    Our pad.
    How lovely is this personalisation?
    Our laundry was ready and waitinghours before we expected it.

    Inside the room, the furniture was minimal but what we did have was useful. There was a low table on which we found some information about the resort. Next to this was a tea and coffee station, along with filtered water and a couple of wine glasses. I meant to make a coffee at some point but our early morning activities meant it was better to just get up and out without faffing so I didn’t get round to it. There was Nescafe and the more local Coffee Day. For something a little cooler, we had a minibar with a couple of soft drinks in and two large beers. It was a shame we don’t like beer as these were very tempting when it was hot outside.

    To the left, there was a wardrobe/shelving unit of sorts. It was handy to hang anything we intended to twear the following day, and I liked having the mirror but it wouldn’t be good for people that love to fully unpack. Luckily, we could just pop oiur packing cubes here when we needed to rummage in them.

    The Bed

    Our lovely big bed had crisp white sheets and super soft pillows. This wasn’t your average camping fare! On either side we had a bedside table and a plug. which was nice. At 16:00 every day, the housekeeping team came and turned the bed down, enclosing it in a mosquito net. One of our vital travel items is duct tape, and it is standard to cover up any little holes in a mossie net with a little square of tape. We did this on the first night and on our second evening saw that they had sewn the hole up really neatly. Top marks!

    Check out that air conditioner
    The Bathroom

    The bathroom was outside of the tent but still under the roof. It was a giant semi-circular area at the back of the room, housing the toilet, a shower and sink. The shower was fantastic and felt like we were outside with the morning sun slicing in sideways.

    We were provided with four large bottles of shampoo, shower gel, conditioner and body lotion. They were all lovely to use and my hair product stayed in my washbag. We also got a soap to cut through all that sun cream and deet, and a shower cap for quick, pre-bed rinses. It was a great set up. When you are used to guesthouses with small wet rooms, having so much space to drip dry or waft a towel was a treat.

    This made short work of my hair
    These products were all great
    So much space

    Dining

    Breakfast, lunch and dinner are all served at The Swimming Elephant. This lush, open sided structure is almost original. It used to be reception when Barefoot first opened. It has been expanded and now fits everyone in for food. There are two sections of tables and chairs, and one with low tables along with big, thick cushions. There were even a couple of tables outside which one French family loved to make use of while we all dashed for the cooling fans.

    I enjoyed sitting on the cushions
    Mais oui!

    We also had a few special dining experiences but I will talk about those in the activities blog post. It is worth noting that all the food came from the Swimming Eephant so it is all a review of the same menu.

    Breakfast

    There is a no breakfast buffet at Barefoot. Everything is served a la carte apart from the drinks selection. Every morning there was a different selection of fresh juices, cold coffee or milkshakes to pour. We were given a menu with a selection of western options on one side. Mr Fluskey greatly enjoyed the scrambled eggs and chocos with cold milk.

    Then, on the other side was a daily Indian selection. The idli with dips was delicious but the winner had to be the masala dosa, a spicy and hearty start to the day which I totally forgot to photograph because I was far too excited to eat it. We were also given a plate of fruit every day which was a nice, fresh accompaniment.

    On Wednesdays, we eat pink
    Idli and dips
    That’s one happy Fluskey
    Lunch

    We only had one lunch in the restaurant itself but it was a good one. We opted for the satay chicken and prawn curry. The satay was unusual, being Thai marinated chicken that was then coated and fried. Then came the main event, the tender coconut and prawn curry with a cashew based sauce. Oh my goodness. This was heavenly! Turns out, the recipe came from one of the staff’s grandmas. She must have been an epic cook as this was one of Mr Fluskey’s favourite Indian dishes ever. It was so good that we had to order it again for another dinner. If you go, and you eat seafood, you MUST order this!

    Chicken supreme satay
    Mr Fluskey’s new favourite curry
    Dinner

    We had dinner at Swimming Elephant three times during our day, which meant we got a nice variety of dinner options to sample. there are three main sections on the menu here, Chinese, Italian, and Indian. Italian might feel a little strange, and like an attempt to cater for everybody, but Barefoot has the bona fide to back it up. They used to have an Italian couple working in the kitchen and they passed on plenty of knowledge of Italian cooking to the staff to continue serving up European fare. The pizza, was as good as it could be with the quality of mozzarella available. It was definitely the best pizza I have ever had in India.

    There are some fun and unusual dishes on the menu, like the ginger chicken. This is a fancy version of chicken goujons. Chicken and ginger are coated in polenta and fried to produce a simple, but incredibly more-ish starter.

    On our first evening, we tried a potato dish, which was a whole potato stuffed with stuff? And covered in a creamy curry sauce. We’ve never had anything like it in India, but it was filling and the most delicious food.

    Mr Fluskey’s biggest distress in India, is that there are no decent kormas to be found. He has suffered through many a pasanda and Shahi paneer on the hunt for a mild but tasty almond based curry. Well, finally, his search was over as Barefoot serves a top-notch vegetable korma. Add to this the south Indian style paratha and you have one very happy Fluskey!

    Ginger Chicken
    Pizza
    Seafood and Stuffed potatoes
    Stuffed Potato
    Vegetable Korma and Naan
    Panna Cotta

    We only managed dessert on one evening, full to the brim. On every other attempt. We shared a panna cotta, which was good, but not amazing. It was served with sweet jam-type sauce, rather than a sharper compote or sauce, which made the whole thing slightly too sweet.

    Drinks

    Throughout the day, the bar in the lobby was open for drinks. We were impressed to see a decent cocktail list, full of original options. We indulged in a few cocktails during our time, even accidentally picking a shooter due to some absent-minded ordering at dinner. Every drink we had was good, and the selection of international spirits was unexpectedly broad. It speaks to the luxury element when you can have Absolute vodka instead of the local paint stripper.

    One drink that is especially worth mentioning is the Laal Chai offered to guests every night down on the beach during sunset. As the colour changes to gold, a giant tea pot appears, full of hot, spiced chai. On our first night, we grabbed a beach mat and found a spot, taking our tea with us. It felt odd having a hot drink in the sun but it didn’t stop it tasting scrummy. Then, on our last evening, I spend an hour in the sea before sunset. It actually got a teeny bit chilly so the lovely warm tea was very well received.

    OMA Spa

    The best way to chill out on your holiday is to let someone smooth your tensions away so we were so excited to have a full body massage. We had a quick sit down in the reception, debating whether the bowls on the floor, complete with leaf were for the aesthetics or for our feet. We erred on the side of caution and left our toes unsoaked. The massage therapists were going to do our massages side by side and showed us into the room, presenting us with a huge pair or paper pants each. It actually made a nice change from the tiny paper thongs often awkwardly yanked on for these experiences, but it definitely felt hilarious at the time.

    The fancy pants

    We lay down and the lovely ladies went to work. It was a hard massage, the hardest I’ve ever had I think . I would normally ask for a lighter touch but after carrying my backpack on sore shoulders, and in a sort of sadistic whim, I decided not to say anything. It was somewhere between delightful at points and almost too painful at some stages. I figured it must be good for me! After our time was up we both showered in the bathroom and wandered, lighter than air, back to our room. Mr Fluskey fully intended to have another massage but one of our other activities over run and he didn’t have time. It is such a shame as around £30 for an hour of pummeling, detangling and destressing was very affordable.

    Final Thoughts on our Barefoot at Havelock Review

    Barefoot at Havelock has found a fantastic balance offering excellent service and high end rooms whilst still recognizably coming from eco resort roots. The owner is clearly really passionate about both sides of business. Remembering the early days, he enthuses about the replanting of local tress around the former banana plantation, and the quality of the new architectural delights. We found ourselves falling under Barefoot’s spell too, sad to leave after three days and dreaming of another visit.

    Rosie xx