Tag: Marrakesh

A Bed in Marrakesh – Riad Star Review
Mad, magical Marrakesh is the most wonderful city break. It is a heady mix of spice, sights and hopefully, plenty of sunshine. The most amazing way to see the city is to be in the medina, immersed in the culture, and so it was with this in mind we began looking at Riads within the medina walls. There was something about Riad Star that caught our eye. Read on for our full Riad Star review.

This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

Our stay was hosted by Riad Star. All opinions are entirely our own.

What is a Riad?

A Riad is a Moroccan residence with multiple floors and plenty of rooms, all centred around a courtyard. Traditionally these would have had a fountain in but more and more, you will find a plunge or swimming pool instead, especially when they have been converted into a hotel. The central courtyard is an escape from the madness of the medinas outside, a relief from the heat in summer and serve as an outdoor lounge. These buildings were once the home of the richest residents of Morocco and many have been turned into hostels, hotels and restaurants. A stay in a Riad is an absolute must for any trip to Morocco with many beautifully restored and bursting with personality in a way that many chain hotels lack. Let’s start our Riad Star review.

Riad Star Location

Riad Star is located just northeast of the Medina’s centre. You will be just a minute or two walk from the beautiful Ben Youssef Madrasa. It is about ten minutes down to Marrakesh’s main square, Jemaa el-Fnaa. To get down to El Badi Palace and Bahia Palace and Saadian Tombs is twenty-five minutes or so by foot. Although all is calm inside, it is a delight to be just steps from the hustle and bustle of the medina.

A Look Around Riad Star

Our Room – Star

Riad Star is divided into two sections, one that ascends from the dining room and the other that surrounds the courtyard and pool. Our room was on the first floor (second floor if you are from the USA), overlooking the courtyard and was called Star. To one side we had two large windows with some beautiful wrought iron curls. The windows could be opened fully to feel like you were on a balcony. In between these two windows was the dressing table so it had wonderful natural light.

We had a large seating area in one corner. It was a little dark for reading but perfect for chilling out and getting some rest. On the other side of the room was a table with a TV on. We didn’t watch it but popped it on try and find some music as we got ready in the evening. There was also a cupboard with wardrobe space and shelves full of helpful bits and bobs. We had a hair dryer, an iron, a safe and mini fridge…so far, so normal. However, we also had a head massager and in the wardrobe, some traditional Moroccan clothes to try on if you fancy getting into character. So cool!

Around the room were some lovely old photos of both the previous owner (more on that later) and other vintage celebs. These are interspersed with those wonderfully designed homewares that make Morocco special. Even the lamp on the wall was intricate and beautiful, nestled into an small area of stucco design.

Our Bathroom

The room’s ensuite was full of deep, dark colours, contrasted with a bright gold sink. It felt very luxurious. There was also a little stucco work in the shower to tie it in with the room and rest of the Riad. The shower was strong, hot and had a lovely, large head. The luxury continued with the products provided. There is a shampoo, conditioner and body cream displayed in pretty little bottles that stay in the room. Then there was the hand soap which smelled divine and didn’t strip our hands.

Our Bed

Continuing our Riad Star review, we have to talk about the bed; a large double with a little extra room for ignoring each other. We both thought the medium firm mattress was comfortable, but I do wonder if it was because we had been on a very uncomfortable futon style mattress for the previous three nights. The pillows were soft but not horrendously so and we didn’t need the other cushions for extra boost. As we were visiting in January, it was cold in the evenings but the proper duvet saw to that nicely.

Dining

The Dining Room & Kitchen

The dining room of Riad Star is simply stunning. It is used for breakfast, dinner and as a rest spot and reception. From floor to ceiling it is pure white and the stucco goes up to the first floor, continuing on the balconies. The walls extend up to a skylight that lets in the sunlight. Under the first floor are the tables which have huge mirrors to help bounce the light around in the sheltered area.

We really loved checking in here. We rested on the comfy seats and were presented with mint tea and some coconutty cookies. As we sipped and munched away, we filled out our registration forms and after a nice relax, were shown to our room. It was a world away from queueing at a large hotel check in desk.

Round to the side is a tea and coffee area that sometimes has snacks too. This is free and open to all guests, all day. Next to this table is the kitchen. This is also open for use but it is reserved for the cooking lessons offered at Riad Star at certain times. We didn’t have the chance to join a lesson but we did get to try some of their signature dishes during our dinner at the Riad.

Breakfast

We only managed one breakfast during our stay as we had to get up far too early on our first day to dash to Jardin Majorelle. Moroccan breakfasts are never fast and usually involve a few courses brought out over a little while. Thus, we decided to skip it on that crazy morning. However, on day two, we had a little more time and could luxuriate in the many treats on offer….and bear in mind, this was a “small breakfast”. For breakfast we had:
- A full pot of deliciously strong coffee.
- A small fruit salad each with pineapple, apple, strawberry, grapes and more.
- Fresh orange juice.
- A little mezze of cheese, olives and dips.
- Two msemmen (flaky, addictive flat breads).
- Huge slabs of chocolate cake.
Dinner

We were lucky enough to be offered a dinner on our first night, an offer we snatched up eagerly. We were expecting one tagine because apparently we had ignored the rest of the time we had spent in Morocco where multiple dishes were served. Dinner at Riad Star was no different. Four sizable plates came out and we began to dish up, thinking that we had everything but with a flourish, a tagine appeared, sizzling with tender lamb and juicy prunes. As well as the tagine, we tried:
- A salad/coleslaw with a little mayonnaise and some lovely sweet raisins.
- A courgette dish, packed with garlic and topped with cheese that i am SO excited to recreate!
- Zaalouk – A divinely slippery aubergine and tomato salad with paprika, cumin and herbs.
- A shredded onion and veggie salad surrounded by orange slices.
Each of these side dishes was bursting with flavour and we tried our best to finish them but there was too much for even these two greedy Brits. Then, just as we thought our trousers would burst, a plate of pink grapefruit and raspberry arrived, followed by a giant fruit bowl. Some of the fruit in the bowl was already prepared for ease of eating and so we ploughed on. I really loved the pink grapefruit with its sprinkles of cinnamon. It was a fun and new taste combo.

A Look Around Riad Star

The Pool

The most gorgeous part of the Riad Star review has to be the plunge pool, backed by a beautiful tree centrepiece. I wanted to get in so badly but the temperature never rose enough. It didn’t stop me from trying though! I couldn’t get straight in but I did have my feet in for a few minutes. I can imagine it is pure heaven in summer.

Riad Star Rooftop

At the top of the property is a fabulous rooftop. There are several areas for people to eat, lounge or do a little yoga. (Yoga mats are stored up here). It would be so wonderful to bring a bottle of wine up here and huddle in one of the cabanas. In fact, if it were summer, we would have asked to eat dinner and breakfast up here as the views of the medina are just lovely. In one direction you can see huge minarets and the call to prayer is always a splendid backdrop.

The Hammam

We decided to take advantage of the in-house Hammam on our last day. We opted for a couple’s treatment which included a traditional hammam, a massage and a manicure or pedicure. Upstairs we went to the tiny hamam and the lovely beauty therapist looked a little confused to see two people. She had obviously been told it was just one of us. Well, no bother, we stripped down to our bottoms and each took a marble slab in the steam room. We got the works. The wash with local luxury soap and rub down were delightfully thorough. The beds were almost too hot but that was just what I wanted! I did wonder how Mr Fluskey was coping, being less of a fan of hot things. We came out dripping wet and with bright red skin, soft as a baby’s bottom.

It went a bit awry afterwards. I lay down for a massage while Karl was taken outside to wait, wet and rapidly chilly. It was sunny, but still January. As my massage proceeded the lady kept making calls. I believe it was in a desperate effort to find a helper as someone turned up and came into the room (yes, I was under a towel but I was rather topless). It wasn’t a very relaxing time. Mr Fluskey and I swapped and I had my nails done outside. Again, I was rather cold after a few minutes.

To do an honest Riad Star review, I just don’t think it is set up for a couple’s treatment so I’d recommend doing it solo or taking turns.

The Room of Delights

So, what is all this about Josephine Baker?

Josephine Baker was an American dancer who took the world by storm in a little banana skirt. There was a particular love for her in France and it became her adopted home. She embraced the praise and ran with it, using her fame to fuel her activism and support for equal rights. Oh, and don’t forget the time she helped the French resistance in WWII! In fact, it was her work in World War II that brought her to Morocco. The Pashah of Marrakesh invited her to come and live in Marrakesh and continue her important resistance activities. It was Riad Star that was her home.

Information

If you are planning to stay at Riad Star review, here is some information you might like to know:
- For the best rates and to see her sister Riads, check out the Riad Star website.
- Download the app here for an easy way to view your reservation and book extras. It also has super helpful offline maps of the medina.
- Riad Star offers some great extras like a local mobile phone to borrow during your stay.
- Riad Star is a host for a bi-annual storytelling festival which is a traditional art form in Morocco.
Final Thoughts for Our Riad Star Review

There’s just something about Riad Star. The intricate white stucco that rises from the dining space, the cooling presence of the pool, the unwaveringly polite staff….I don’t know, but it has such a lovely atmosphere. It really is an oasis of calm and a super place to stay during a visit to Morocco.

Rosie xx
17/04/2023
Munching through Marrakesh – Medina Stories Marrakesh Food Tour Review

They say the way to a man’s heart is through his stomach, well I believe that the way to a city’s heart is through MY stomach! You can learn so much on a good food tour. Whether it is a cultural point you didn’t know, a new ingredient that you discover and love or the chance to walk into a food spot you were nervous about entering. During our Marrakech tour, we did all three. No trip to Morocco is complete without learning all but the food. Read on for our full A Chef’s Tour Marrakesh Food Tour review.

This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

Our tour was hosted by A Chef’s Tour but all opinions are entirely our own.

Meeting Rachid

We were running a little late as usual, so it was with puffing chests and red faces that we first met Rachid, our tour guide. He greeted us with a big smile and an easy manner. Turns out, we were the only people booked onto the tour (an advent age of offseason travel). This meant we could set off straight and begin out munch through Marrakesh.

Learning Our ABCs

Amlou

Amlou is a uniquely Moroccan sweet paste which combines almonds, honey and argan oil. It is food but you could definitely sell it as a beauty product with those three ingredients. In fact, as well as being sweet and delicious it is packed with nutrients and good for joints, cholesterol and boosting your immune system.

Bahgrir

As a Brit, I LOVE a crumpet1 Happily, Morocco has something just like them, bubbly bread that is ready for tasty toppings. Baghrirs are semolina pancakes with lots of lovely holes that make excellent little reservoirs for the amlou. We drizzled it slowly on and demolished the pancakes in record time.

Cultures

OK, I mean yoghurt but I had to get it to be a C word. To go with our tasty bread we each had a glass of delicious homemade raib. It was creamy and a little sweet. Apparently many families make their own every day which must be so good for their healthy gut bacteria.

The Giant Oven

Making Bread

We entered the community bakery thinking we would have a quick look, nod politely and exit again…but this is no ordinary Marrakesh food tour. Up the stairs we went and there we were presented with the guy preparing Khobz rolls at a furious speed. Then, we were tasked with helping to pat the dough into rounds, crusted with crunchy semolina. This bread is served with nearly every meal and I suppose it was time to prove (bread joke) that we were worthy of the few tons we had consumed. I don’t think we did too badly as they were allowed downstairs to the oven.

The brick-lined, wood-fired ovens in community bakeries are HUGE and the bakers have to keep track of thousands of rolls a day. People drop off their trays, have the bread baked and then pick it up later. It’s incredible. It stops many homes from having to own an oven, plus the fierce heat of summer isn’t made worse by their heating up an oven. It’s incredible.

Sardine Sandwiches

As we were doing our very best GBBO impressions upstairs, a tray of fresh sardines was roastng the bread oven downstairs. Sardines are abundant off the coast of Morocco an a fresh sardine is worlds away from the overly salty type you might have had a tin. They are plump, a little oily and not too fishy. We grabbed a couple of rolls, popped the beautiful fish inside and squeezed on some lemon for a perfect snack. It reminded me of many a happy BBQ in the summer. Rachid warned us there may be small bones left in the butterflie beauties but with the bread built in help them slip down, it wasn’t a problem at all.

Tangia 1 – Preparations

We were both handed a clay pot with a wire handle called a tanjier (or tangia) and taken to the butchers. The exposed meat of these shops has always made me a little nervous but before I knew it, we had some fresh meat tipped into the pot and we were waving goodbye. Then, a few shops along, we added in some wonderful flavours. We threw in some turmuric and other spices, plenty of garlic, fresh herbs and then topped it up witth water.

Wrapping Roses

Chebakya are rose-shaped pasties, especially popular during ramadan. The dough is shaped before being deepfried and soaked in honey and rose water. They are very sweet and sticky and are often paired with harira soup (more about that later).

Feeling buoyed by our excellent roll patting, we were ready for the challenge when we were told we would be making some of these little lovelies. I shouldn’t have been so cocky. Mr Fluskey got the hang of it quickly but I produced one utter fail after another. The dough had been perforated to make folding it easier but my brain just douldn’t solve the 3D puzzle. Luckily, we were allowed some that had been prepared earlier by the professionals.

I laughed so hard when I saw our attempts being quickly rolled back into the next lot of dough. I am glad we didn’t ruin their reputation.

Tangia 2 – Toasting

Around the corner from the community hammam entrance was a set of stairs covered in ash. It was with some tredpidation that we descended into the dark heat. Turns out this is where the fire to heat the hammam is. However, we weren’t just here to gawk at the flames. Instead, we handed our tanjiers over to the firekeeper who popped it on a pile of hot ashes along with many others. Another community initiative is this sharred fire pit. Prepare your stew and give the hamam firemaster a few dirhams to cook it for you for a few hours. Grbab it later and you have a hot, delicious dinner!

A Moroccan Burger…ish

Our last tasting before we moved to a different area was a minced meat roll. I have tried to find the name but failed. Here, spiced and beautifully seasoned mincemeat is piled into a roll and traditionally sothered with cilli sauce. Mr Fluskey opted to skip the chilli but it was yummy! The meat was soft, the roll was soft and it was all rather messy…in the best way. I would demolish a fair few of these on the way home from a night out!

Perfectly Pink Prickly Pear

We walked for around 15 minutes, winding through the medina. As we passed one small cart, Rachid asked if we had tried prickly pear before. I had once as a child but never since so he grabbed us a couple. The fruit of the cactus tasted like a mix of watermelon and something sweet like bubblegum. We were urged not to touch them, instead using toothpicks to plop them into our mouths. Just check out how they stained our tongues! We had to go back for seconds!

Krazy Khlea

Just around the corner was our next stop. I was excited to try the preserved meat known as Khlea. Biltong, jerky, they make me very happy. However, looking at the brightly coloured piles of meat on the counter, I was a little taken aback. Khlea is made by putting strips of meat (usually beef) in the sun before it is mixed with cumin, garlic and coriander. Then the meat is cooked in water, fat and oil. It’s this mixture that you can see left around the meat.

We had a little on a small paper plate and popped some into our mouths. The texture was soft, slightly gelatunous and covered in fat. I was NOT a fan. I can imaine that it would be lovely as part of a hot dish but I was not keen to go in for a second bite, Mr Fluskey had to finish it all for us.

Shish Kebabs

Monsieur Fromage is one of those hole in the wall places that we would be too scared to go into without a recommendation. When we arrived it was full of solo diners for lunch, all chatting away. The speciality here is some and of chicken meat and chicken livers cooked over hot coal. These are served with two different kinds of stew, one white bean and one lentil.

I loved the liver skewer and felt indifferent about the chicken. It was nice enough. However, I didn’t love either of the stews. They were both Luke warm which didn’t help. Rachid asked which of the stews we liked better and we debated for a while. Both tasted similar but I preferred the texture of the lentil dish. It was like a tomato dahl.

Bunny Boiler

Many years ago, on our first trip to Marrakesh, I remember reading about an alley full of tagine places that served rabbit. I was too nervous to go and so we skipped it. That is why I was so excited to visit during the tour.

We took a seat in an overflow section of the restaurant and in minutes a tagine of bubbling rabbit was presented to us in a puff of scented steam. Now, despite A Chef’s Tour asking if we had any dietary requirements, I hadn’t thought to mention my utter distaste for onion in all its many forms. The rabbit tagine was topped with rather a lot of onion so I picked my way through it. The rabbit tagine had a rich sauce and plenty of sharp green olives and salty, tangy preserved lemons to mix up each bite.Honestly I couldn’t have eaten much more any way, knowing that there were more food stops to come.

Should I stay or Escargot?

Don’t let snails scare you! They are really tasty. On all previous occasions eating snails, they have been slathered, dripping or bathing in garlic butter. Unusually, in Marrakesh, the snails are prepared in a spicy, peppery broth which makes them much lighter. We were served a small bowl and given a couple of toothpicks to extract the dark meat. I was a very happy girl dragging the reluctant snails from their stripy shells. I’m not sure Mr Fluskey was quite so convinced.

BessaraBissara, Beyssara or Beyssar – Let’s Call the Whole Thing Off

With bursting bellies we sat down to a bowl of bessara. This is Marrakesh’s most iconic street food, a thick soup packed with fava beans and tasting unusually like Heinz tomato soup?! It can be thicker as a dip or a little thinner as seen here as a soup

Bessara is known as the anytime soup. Moroccans enjoy it at all times of the day (as long as they have a good hour or so to prepare it). It is said to be good for all kinds of ailments too. Mind you, it’s much easier to just pop and grab a bowl from a nearby stall, which is what makes it such a popular street food.

We had a few bites but we were so full and knew that we would be eating our tanjirs shortly. Luckily, it was a bit of a walk to our last stop so we could work a little something off en route.

Tangia 3 – Tasting

It wouldn’t be a Moroccan food tour without a pot of tea so we were treated to some when we reached our last stop. I tried pouring the tea from on high, as it is often served but only managed about 15 cm before I panicked and put it back down again. A little practice required I think.

Then it was time for the main event, the reason we had resisted finished everything thus far; our tanjias!

Rachid and our waiter poured them out onto our waiting dishes and the meat plopped out followed by the thick, rich, spiced sauce. It was so delicious although I know I didn’t pick what went into it, and the hammam firemaster cooked it, I still felt a bit proud. It was an amazing end to the day and it kept us full all night…even after a few post tour cocktails.

Final Thoughts for Our Media Stories Marrakesh Food Tour

Come hungry! I know the website says so but you will leave stuffed enough that this is lunch and dinner. It starts in the afternoon so I would suggest having a late breakfast and pushing through until you start the tour. For the price, you are getting an astonishing amount of food. We are greedy and we didn’t finish it all!

Rachid was knowledgeable, funny and happy to chat throughout the tour about anything we asked. I felt like we left with a new friend rather than just a guide who was happy to wave us off.

Rosie xx

06/04/2023
Exploring Morocco with Gorgeous Morocco

On our first trip to Morocco, we only saw Marrakesh and Casablanca. I left feeling like we needed to see more of this intriguing country which sits at the edge of Europe. Well, it took us ten years but eventually we rebooked for a trip in February 2023. We planned an itinerary with Gorgeous Morocco Tours to take us to corners that we just wouldn’t have if we had stuck to public transport. Read on to find out what we got up on with our very own private tour.

This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

Our trip was hosted by Gorgeous Morocco but all opinions are our own.

Day One – Heading South

Walking out to the car park from our hotel in Fez we spotted a silver Toyota Land Cruiser with a man waiting expectantly.

“That must be our ride”

We met our driver Ahmed and hopped straight in, ready for the long day ahead. Fez to Merzouga is a whopping 500km, which would be an all-day drive.

Our First Stop – Ifran

Ifran 1700 km up into the Atlas Mountains, has an international university as the weather is milder than in the rest of the country. The natural aircon allowed students to focus without being a hot and sweaty mess. It has gained the nickname “the Switzerland of Morocco”. We hopped out of the car into the chilly air and had a quick look around the main square. There was a large tour group that was rather hogging the famous lion statue and then one of them actually climbed on it. (It was just like home). The lion represents the lions that used to roam these mountains many years ago. Across the road was a park with a layer of compacted snow. We wandered over to have a look but our slightly inadequate cold weather gear mean that our hands and feet were very quick to turn painful.

We decided to pop into Hotel Charmonix for a quick coffee. It was sweet and hot, just what the doctor ordered. Karl didn’t get any breakfast before we left as we departed before the riad served it. We enquired at the bar as to whether they sold croissants or anything and there was a lot of head wagging and shouting back and forth to other staff. This all seemed pretty negative so we had written the idea off. Just as I finished my coffee,, a plate appeared with a flaky fried flatbread, sesame toast and two slices of loaf cake. We ate most of it and bagged the cake for later. I am glad we did as we were charged handsomely for the plate.

Barbary Apes

Down the road, just a few minutes drive away, we arrived at a famous stop, Azrou Junction, to see the barbary apes. These aren’t actually apes, the name just comes from their lack of tails. They are from the macaque family and are very cute. It was nice to have the chance to see them but sad that they are so used to humans, begging for food. One group of men arrived with a blaring boombox and began to chase the monkeys. I was disgusted at their behaviour and made moves to get back in the car. We left quickly and were soon back in beautiful snowy landscapes that were positively Alpine.

Lunch in Midelt(ish)

We continued on for a couple of hours and then stopped for lunch. I had found a place that was well recommended and didn’t cater to the large tour groups passing by but it was in the town Midelt itself. Ahmed wanted to go to the place that Gorgeous Morocco always uses so we decided to drive by both and then choose. The car pulled up to the large roadside restaurant first (still a long way from the town) and there was a coach outside. As we entered we saw a huge group of Chinese tourists happily tucking in. I wasn’t sure about staying and when I saw the price I was more put off. It was about a third more expensive than it should have been. Mr Fluskey seemed happy with it and Ahmed was content so I agreed to stay.

Karl ordered an omelette which arrived with an array of side dishes. He said it OK but not amazing. To save some pennies and because the strop had dampened my appetite I ordered chips. They were cold and soggy. The olives were fine but I made a mental note to push for what we wanted in the days to come.

A Long Drive

The car passed through fields of snow with hills covered in white rising above into the blue sky. Ahmed asked if we wanted to stop and have some photos with the snowy landscape. Yes! Good plan! I hopped out of the car and stepped onto the snow, only to sink up to the thighs almost instantly. I bent over double, laughing in shock and delight. Mr Fluakey was in so much shock that he didn’t film it but he did manage to get one quick photo.

It seemed like we turned a corner and suddenly the snow were gone, the trees shrunk into little shrubs and the snow was a distant memory. It can’t have been more than a ten minute drive and we were in a rocky world of ridges and boulders. We wound through the hills as I listened to some of my favourite podcasts and Mr Fluskey slept. Time slipped by as the car ate the road ahead.

Er-rachidia Dam

Filled with water from the Atlas Mountains Hassan Ad-dakhil caught my attention from a long way off (or as far as someone with visual impairment can manage). It was nice to see water after such a long stint in the dry and barren hills. We stopped for a quick snap but the wind was starting to chill us down and we quickly hopped back into the warmth of the car.

Arriving at the Desert

Once more the scenery shifted and the hills dropped away, replaced by distant sand dunes. We were approaching our destination of Merzouga on the edge of the Sahara desert. We were booked to stay one night here before exploring the desert the next day with Ahmed. He took us to our small guesthouse and we parted ways until day two rolled around.

Day Two – Erg Chebbi and The Sahara

After a lovely bit of breakfast, we heard the engine coming down the road and rushed to finish getting ready. We needn’t have rushed as our host and Ahmed were happy to share a cup of tea before we left. Ahmed was raised in the next village north of Merzouga and he had planned a day exploring Erg Chebbi and the surrounding area.

We began by driving around Erg Chebbi and the dunes. I was wondering about how the desert was so well defined when other places experience sand creep so badly. These dunes don’t move as there is water in the sand about one metre down. There were lakes here many years ago and this residual moisture keeps them static as a dune can be.

Stop One – Nomadic Camp

Our first stop of the day was on a large, flat area of sand that was well-compacted. Dark tents dotted the area and we appeared to pick one at random. We got out and Ahmed greeted the two cute children that dash4ed up to greet him. This nomad camp was a typical Berber settlement with a collection of tent dwellings for a kitchen, a bread oven, sleeping quarters and another tent for a communal space/living room. There are around 25,000 nomadic people in Morocco, known as Berber or Amazigh, who move where weather, animals or crops dictate throughout the year. This community is spread across much of North Africa.

We had a little look around and then took a seat in the living room where we were given some tea strong with herbs and a little bowl with some irresistible nibbles. It was so interesting to see how the nomadic people of Morocco live, I felt a bit rude as they didn’t join us for tea but the mum was given a little money so I guess it is easy extra income. We asked Ahmed and he visits a different family on each trip. This means the wealth is spread around little.

Stop Two – Abandoned Village

Nearby we arrived at an old French colonial village called M’ifis. It was built to serve the huge mine here (our next stop) as the French were interested in obtaining mineral wealth from this area. When they left in the 1950s, they just left the village behind, with just a few Berbers to work the mine. However, without the machinery the French had owned, it became impossible to work and they too abandoned the village. The buildings were all made of mud and so without regular upkeep, these were reduced to half walls and doorways. There are a couple of military houses and a mosque that still had some residents. It was cool to have a wander around but the level of rubbish that lay around the place was heartbreaking.

Stop Three – Mine

Rising above us on one side was a big hill and this was our next stop. The M’ifis mine is famous for producing delightfully sparkly, pink quartz crystals on one hand and deep black kohl on the other (the black mineral that is turned into eyeliner). As we climbed the hill, I was a little confused that I couldn’t see a giant mine entrance but as we reached the top, it was casually mentioned that the crevice to our side was INCREDIBLY deep. Suddenly, my knees were a little more wobbly. It was easier to stay away from this edge and enjoy the wider view.

Stop Four – Khemlia Village

After descending past the cleaning tanks, we drove through the sand to Khemlia village.

(We saw a camel!)

The population of this small settlement were brought across the desert from Sudan and Mali as slaves. These days, the residents make their living performing the wonderful Gnawa music that is unlike much of the other Arabic-influenced music you may hear in Morocco. We were the only people in the performance area and I felt wildly awkward for a while but then they let me have a go on the metal maracas and it was really fun joining in. When some other tourists came in, we made our exits with lots of thank yous and a tip.

Stop Five – The Camel House

With that, the usual desert tour was over but as Ahmed was local to the area, he took us to see where he lived, Hassilabied. We saw the spring that feeds the town with water that comes from the desert dunes. This allows an oasis-style allotment which looks like a palmeraie Every family in the town has a small plot here to grow plants, fruit or vegetables. The water that passes through all the time is directed to a different section at allotted hours. Everyone knows the roster and it seems like everyone is happy to take turns.

(We saw a frog!)

We head to The Camel House, the guesthouse that Gorgeous Morocco works with in the warmer months. Ahmed’s wife had kindly made us a Berber pizza for lunch. Madfouna is a circular flat bread stuffed with carrot, onion and spices. We enjoyed the chance to soak up the sun. In January, Morocco can be rather chilly and especially in the evenings so we preserved every ray!

The view from the second floor towards the dunes

We chilled out for an hour or two before hopping back into the car and to the edge of the desert for our next adventure.

Stop Six – The Camel Stop

Ahmed Dropped us at the camel stop by Yasmina Hotel and we transferred over to the camel guides taking us over the dunes to our desert camp. Staying in a luxury camp in the desert should be on everyone’s bucket list. It is a really unique experience and if you can take a camel to reach the camp, even better.

We have written a whole review of our Sahara Sky Luxury Desert Camp experience and you can check it out here.

Day Three – Heading West

We met up with Ahmed as he coordinated a perfect pickup. He and Mabarack from Sahara Sky were on the phone together and both drove to the same spot in real time. We jumped back into the Toyota and we got straight on the road. Originally I had wanted to see Rissani’s beautiful gate but we had decided to do a hike in Todra Gorge which meant we wouldn’t have time. Instead, we drove back through Erfoud and headed in the direction of Todra.

There was a quick stop to see a spot that is normally a spot for growing crops and getting well water. It was dry at this particular time of year but we still got to see the foot-powered well. Mr Fluskey had a go and it was much easier than cranking a handle. Humans are clever, aren’t they?!

The Todra Gorge Hike

It was another two hours or so up to the spot that we wanted to hike from and by the time we reached the car park, the sun was warm and pleasant. I had read a blog post that said it was an easy to medium hike would take around 3 to 3.5 hours.

“OK, we can handle that”, we thought to ourselves.

Well, the first bit was a set of stairs and with an easy enough ascent ahead of us we cheerily waved goodbye to Ahmed. The path very quickly became tougher and with a few wrong turns, we were almost immediately behind schedule…according to that blog.

We huffed and puffed our way up for an hour until it was time to sit and have our sandwiches (of course this was bread and laughing cow cheese that we had smuggled away from the breakfast table). I decided to look at the large rock above us and discovered that we were mere steps from the top of the ridge. I should have known, it is always around 100m before we reach somewhere that Mr Fluskeydecides we are going the wrong way or will never make it.

The rest of the walk was much easier but time seemed to be racing by in huge chunks, leaving us further and further behind our projected hike time. We walked through a nomad village up in the rocks (seems like an awfully tricky place to pitch up), down a long stony hill and then to a long ridge that made its way down to town. We grabbed a cold drink and then raced through the gorge and back to the car.

Clearly, we had bitten off more than we could chew!

Exhausted and with filthy feet, we bundled into the back of the car and Karl quickly proceeded to zonk out. We both napped for the next hour or so as we drove through the lengthening shadows towards Dades Valley.

Dades Valley and Skoura

We passed along the road with a lovely view of Dades Valley before driving to the oasis of Skoura.

The sun was nearly totally gone when we arrived. The guesthouse I had booked (a cheap and cheerful choice) was in the oasis rather than the main town area. It was down the road from one of the most luxurious accommodations in Morocco and it had some nice garden photos on the net. The guesthouse was down a winding bumpy track and I was worried that the car wouldn’t fit but luckily, it squeezed through and we found it. It was quite a cold house but at £11 I guess I couldn’t expect any less. They made us a nice hot chicken and green olive tagine for dinner which helped warm us up and Ahmed stayed too which made the morning much easier.

Day Four – Heading North

We were up bright and early, trying to face the morning chill. Brisk action was the best idea and so we were all ready to set off at 08:30.

Kasbah Almeiadi

We drove past Kasbah Almeiadi but it seemed they were filming something big as there was a line of TV trucks outside. The Kasbah is a strikingly beautiful fortress. So gorgeous in fact that it used to be on the 50 dirham note. We were sad not to be able to see inside but I don’t think the crew would have appreciated two tourists wandering into their shot.

If you don’t have “Rock the Kasbah” in your head right now, you are doing something wrong.

Ouarzazate

We got deeper into the heart of Morocco’s Hollywood (Morrywood?) with a stop at Atlas Studios and the attached Oscar Hotel. There is a surprisingly large film business in Morocco and Atlas Studios is actually the largest studio in the world! It houses huge sets like Luxor, Egypt, some large pieces from Gladiator, Disney’s live-action Aladdin and The Mummy. They have also had TV productions including Prison Break and Game of Thrones (I swear, those actors had such a cool tour of the world for that show). Sadly, we weren’t able to take a tour but we poked our noses through the gates and saw some sets and huge props. It would be great to return one day and stay at this cool hotel too.

Ben Aithaddou

Just 20 minutes further north we arrived at Ben Aithaddou. Ben Aithaddou is a fortified village or ksar. It has been here since the 11th century and was a popular stop for caravans to stop before or after they traversed the Atlas Mountains to Marrakesh. The ksar is built up on a hill and overlooks the Ounila river. To enter, traders (and now tourists) need to pass through the gate in the wall and pay a little fee. The village has been maintained and restored as it is a UNESCO world heritage site. Plus, once again, the film industry loves it. We stood in one large area that you might recognise from Gladiator. (We need to rewatch it so we can fan girl a tiny bit). It has also appeared in Lawrence of Arabia, The Living Daylights and Prince of Persia.

We walked over from the modern town where most residents now live and hopped across the river…literally. There is a big bridge but we used the stepping stones. Ahmed had a little hack we entered the village from a different area, avoiding the rest of the tourists. There were some boards showing the films made here and we perused them before heading up the hill to the granary. The view from the top f the hill was 360 and very impressive. We could see the film studios in one direction and in the distance, the snowy top of the Atlas mountains.

The High Atlas

Leaving the flat lands below, we prepared for the long drive north, up and over the mountains. Again, Mr Fluskey went straight to sleep but I was so excited about the snow that I was just sat, face plasered to the window for the whole drive up. The road had a lot of construction and we could see where they were cutting some of the most extreme corners to make the journey a little straighter and easier. It was a slow drive and I am interested to see how fast the trip would be when it is all finished.

At the top of the Atlas we stopped for some photos. It was so, so cold but I loved the snow, cut through with black rock. we managed about five minutes out of the car before we had to jump back into the heating.

On the way back down we had the chance to stop for lunch. There was clearly too much breakfast as we weren’t that hungry. We opted for one portion of chips to share and, unlike the awful chips one day one, these were perfect. I mean, the french had to leave one good thing behind right? There was also another photo stop where we could see over the twisting road as it snaked across the landscape. It was really fun to stand and watch the cars as they appeared and disappeared around the bends.

Marrakesh

As the last two hours of the trip passed by, Ahmed got in touch with Riad Star. He let them know our time of arrival and to check where we needed to go. The road flattened out and all of a sudden we were on the busy streets of Marrakesh. We got out of the car, ensuring we gathered everything before saying our goodbyes to Ahmed.

Final Thoughts on Exploring Morocco with Gorgeous Morocco

Exploring Morocco with Ahmed was a brilliant experience. We were so busy in the day so being able to sit back and enjoy the changing views from the car (or to sleep in Mr Fluskey’s case) was a real treat. Ahmed was a great driver and showed us some cool things we would never have known about. We loved learning about his life in the desert. It took half a day to realise we could just suggest the things we wanted and he would re-jiggle the itinerary to fit as much in as possible.

Even as fans of trains and buses, there is no way we would have seen so much without the private tour. The quality of driving was top notch and the car was big and comfortable (just ask the sleeping Mr Fluskey). We would not hesitate to recommend Gorgeous Morocco Tours and its excellent service so if you are visiting Morocco, look them up!

Rosie xx

01/04/2023