Tag: bucket list

  • 16 Rovos Rail Train Tips – Everything You Need to Know About Rovos Rail

    16 Rovos Rail Train Tips – Everything You Need to Know About Rovos Rail

    If you are off on the trip of a lifetime, catching the Rovos Rail train, you going to be full of questions. Alternatively, it could be your travel partner who hasn’t been involved in the booking whatsoever and has a million queries. To help out, we thought we would put together our own Rovos Rail FAQs as a quick reference guide for your amazing trip. Read on for our top Rovos Rail train tips.

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    Don’t miss our review of Rovos Rail from Pretoria to Victoria Falls

    1.) How Long Has Rovos Rail Been Running?

    I am sort of avoiding saying that Rovos Rail has been going for a long time as I am very slightly older than Rovos Rail. In 1989, Rohan Vos decided to turn his idea of a family caravan train into a business. He took his family and some friends (four of whom paid for the trip) down to the Eastern Transvaal. Things gained steam (pun intended) in the 1990s and now Rovos Rail is widely considered the most luxurious train in Africa with a few years behind it.

    Rohan Vos is still hands-on and gives passengers tours of the workshops.

    2.) Where Does Rovos Rail Go? – The Rovos Rail Routes

    There are numerous routes that Rovos Rail offers. You can do as little as two nights, and as many as fifteen. You can remain within South Africa, travelling to Durban or Cape Town from Pretoria These are the shortest and cheapest routes, also saving you the cost of visas as you aren’t crossing any borders. If this is your once-in-a-lifetime trip and you have saved hard to go on a short trip then these are your best bet.

    Other itineraries stretch across South Africa, up into Namibia and round into Zimbabwe.

    Rovos Rail also has a special golf trip, the Golf Safari itinerary. This is a nine-night route that stays within South Africa. You will get a chance to take game drives and practice your drives as the train travels to game parks and golf courses alike. There are cultural excursions too so there is a little something for everyone.

    Finally, there are the routes that travel up into Eastern Africa and one that crosses right from Dar Es Salaam on the east coast to Lobido on the west. These long journeys take a little over two weeks and are total bucket list journeys.

    We love train travel! Check out more of our adventures by rail here.

    3.) What Are the Rooms Like on Rovos Rail?

    There are three kinds of rooms on Rovos Rail’s classic trains. Each has its own bathroom with a toilet, basin and either a shower or bath. You will also find an aircon unit in each room and a little bar heater in each bathroom so whether it is toasty or chilly outside, you will be comfortable

    • The Pullman Suite – This is the smallest of the suites at 7m2. You can opt to have your suite made up at bunkbeds, as a side by side twin or as a double at night. The longer journeys only have the beds set as side by side couches by day that can be made up as twins or a double bed at night. This gives you less space in the day but a nice place where you can both nap.
    • The Deluxe Suite – The deluxe gives you some more floor space at 10m2. There is a lounge area with two chairs and a desk/minibar. During the trip, you can opt to have your beds made up as two singles or one rather huge double.
    • The Royal Suite – This is the biggest suite totalling 16m2. They can only squeeze two of these into a carriage whereas you’ll find five Pullmans or the Deluxe suites. In the centre of the suite is a lounge area with two wingback chairs. In addition to all that extra floor space, this is the suite with the bath. Now, I don’t know about you but I think that taking a bubble bath, with a glass of bubbly is always a good idea. Add to that the novelty of being on a train? Bliss! (There is a shower too if you need a speedier clean).

    4.) How Much Does Rovos Rail Cost? – Rovos Rail Prices

    Prices change yearly so we will direct you to the Rovos Rail website for the latest costs. However, I can say that the cheapest room on the cheapest route (two nights in a Pullman suite, Pretoria – Durban) costs, 34,000 ZAR (£1,450) per person, based on two sharing. The most expensive room on the most expensive route (fifteen nights in a Royal Suite, Cape Town to Dar es Salaam) is $25,950 (£21,400) per person based on two sharing. When considering your route bear in mind the distance travelled and the room class you wish to take.

    Here you can find the rates and dates for 2024/2025

    5.) What Should I Pack for Rovos Rail?

    Your Luggage

    There is no restriction on board the Rovos Rail trains but there are a couple of things to bear in mind:

    • They have excellent porters at every station and you won’t have to haul your own bags aboard but you will have to get it to the station in the first place so don’t make it crazy heavy.
    • There is plenty of luggage storage space (under the bed and up on the huge luggage shelf but you might struggle to get your bag away if it is particularly weirdly shaped and/or bulky.
    • There was enough room in the wardrobe for two of us, for four days but we don’t pack heavily and on any longer journeys you may need to access your luggage more regularly so you will want to make sure they are easy to handle.
    Things to Pack for Rovos Rail?

    Don’t forget these essentials:

    • South African or British plug adaptors – The suites come with two different kinds of plugs. You will find the three-round pin South African kind (used hardly anywhere else) and the three-rectangle British kind (also used in Zimbabwe).
    • Sunglasses – It might sound obvious but you are going to be off the train on exciting excursions which may be bright and sunny and may be dusty. It is good to have your sunnies to protect you from both.
    • Reading materials – Laptops and iPads are discouraged outside of your suites so if you would like to relax in the lounge or observation car, you will need something a little more on the analogue side.
    • Cash for tipping and visas – South Africa takes ZAr (South African Rand). The rest of the countries Rovos Rail travels to will take USD (US Dollars). Ensure your dollars are printed after 2001.
    • Ear plugs and eye mask – the train does carry er plugs but it is best to bing a kind you know works for you. Together with an eye mask, this is your best chance for a great night’s sleep.
    • Any fussy toiletries – If you have to have your favourite brand of shampoo then don’t forget it. Each room has a great amenity kit with shampoo, conditioner, body lotion, insect repellent and more…but not your preferred brands.
    • Medicines – The train does have first aid and basic medicines but bring anything that is prescription or you can’t be without. Plus, some extra in case of delays…a good plan every time you travel.
    • Your dinner finery – Dressing for dinner is formal so you will need to pack some dinner outfits…but we will talk more about that later.

    6.) How Much Should I Tip on Rovos Rail?

    Tipping is not mandatory but the staff work incredibly hard and we think it is only fair. If you do decide to tip, the suggested amount is ZAR 100 – 200 ($10 – $20) per person per night. No need to worry about the awkward handover, tips/gratuities can be popped in a specified envelope in your room and given in at the end of the journey. Give what you can and don’t be embarrassed if it is not that much. Some people do tip other staff during the trip but this is not expected. You may also want to tip the guides/game drivers during excursions too.

    7.) Is There a Rovos Rail Dress Code?

    The Rovos Rail dress code is at once a little strict and quite casual. When you are planning your outfits, here are some things to consider.

    • In the daytime, they request that you dress in smart casual attire. This for me means a collared shirt for gents and avoiding loungewear. However, this is entirely personal and we saw plenty of people in more casual styles than we were expecting.
    • Some of the routes offer a game drive or safari so it is worth bearing this in mind and brining some neutral tones (khaki, cream) for these excursions. It can be chilly in the mornings or evenings on these trips so bring a warmer layer that you can add or take off as required.
    • For dinner, the rules are stricter. Gentlemen are required to wear a jacket and tie and ladies are requested to wear a cocktail dress or a nice suit. Now, I love dressing up, this was half of the fun of planning the trip. The romance of train travel greatly increases when everyone looks elegant. If you only have hand luggage or just don’t own a whole bunch of suits, never fear. The same jacket with different accompanying shirts and/or ties will be fine. On our trip, a whole group of travellers had been told by their travel agent that the dress code was more casual for dinner so they didn’t go all out. They were not turned away from dinner
    • It is worth noting for people who like heels that the train does wobble and you may end up turning your ankle so stick to lower options to be on the safe side.
    • On longer trips, Rovos Rail hosts theme nights. If you are on these then check the itinerary as you may need gear for a 1920s night and/or an African night.

    Some outfit inspo:

    8.) What is the Food Like on Rovos Rail?

    All meals are served in the two dining cars. There is only one sitting so you can arrive a little late but less so at lunch or dinner. To chivvy yo to dinner and lunch, a lovely little gong is played throughout the length of the train.

    Breakfast

    (07:00-10:00) – This is the only meal you can arrive sporadically for. Whether you are an early rise that turns up right at 07:00 or the late morning lie-ins that run in at 09:45, you will get the same great service. There is a selection of cereals, granolas and fruits to grab. Every day the table gets a little basket wth a pastry, a muffin and some white and brown toast which is always great. Then you can pick from continental platters or cooked breakfast options. The salmon was particularly lovely and the omelette was a beast!

    Lunch

    (13:00) – Lunch is a four-course affair, served with wine pairings. It is a tiny bit lighter and more vegetarian than dinner but don’t get it twisted, it is still large and indulgent. If you get motion sick and have a game drive excursion, consider your intake. If you are a greedy girl like me, fill your boots!

    Afternoon Tea

    (16:30) – This is served on days when you don’t leave the train. It is available in the lounge car and the observation car too. You’ll find little cakes, tarts and some South African classic pastries like koek sisters too.

    Dinner

    (19:30) – This is the formal meal which is also four courses, all with a wine pairing. This is the heaviest meal of the day with tender cuts of meat and rich desserts. You may need to be rolled back to your suite after dinner…or to the observation car and its bar for a cocktail. The fare is a blend of South African and traditional fine French dining. It is amazing to see what they can produce in the tiny galley kitchens on board the train.

    It is possible to have meals in your room. We opted for breakfast in bed one day. However, it is worth bearing in mind that there isn’t much room on the table and it makes wine pairings obsolete. If you are planning to do this, make sure you specify what you want and how much of it you want. I accidentally ordered two of everything for our breakfast and it was a struggle to eat it all!

    You will also be fed at your point of origin, find biscuits in your room, snacks in the lounge cars and get given snacks on excursions so there is zero chance you will feel hungry at any point. It is pure foody joy.

    9.) Can Rovos Rail Cater to Dietary Requirements?

    When you book you’ll be asked for any dietary requirements. Ensuring you provide a detailed and timely response means the team has time to cater for you. If you leave it until you are on the train, you may be in trouble. They will try their best but choices will be fewer. Bear in mind that dietary restrictions due to religion cannot be catered for.

    10.) Are the Drinks Included on Rovos Rail?

    As mentioned, both lunch and dinner are four courses with wine pairings. Saying that, the last drink tends to be a liqueur or similar for a true digestif. These are not the only drinks you are entitled to. The train is all-inclusive. The only exception is if you want french champagne, which is an extra cost and needs to be booked in advance. The lovely collection of South African ines, including a few sparkling really makes this unnecessary though.

    When you board you will see a mini fridge in your room. It can be stocked with any drinks that they have on board so if you want a bottle of bubbly every day, it is yours. You can request any drink at dinner if you don’t fancy the wine pairings and between about 12:00 – 00:00 the bars are open in the lounges. One is a hidden pantry and the other, you can sit at and have a tipsy talk. Finally, you will probably get a nice rink during your excursions and on your return from said trips.

    On the last evening, we were surprised by a selection of cocktails on offer which you could pick off the bar like a fun boozy buffet.

    11.) Where is the Rovos Rail Station in Pretoria?

    All of Rovos Rail’s routes will start or end at their very own station in Pretoria. This is called Capital Park and is part station, part museum. It has bucket loads of colonial charm with white verandas and striped umbrellas. Rohan Vos will show guests around the worksheds and explain the fun and challenges or restoring the engines and carriages. You may get to see one of their gorgeously preserved steam engines which sadly they cannot run as the locomotives any more

    There is actually a museum within the grounds which is a delightfully eclectic collection of vintage items and transport memorabilia. Don’t forget to head out and have a look (they can pop you in a golf cart if you need one). You can take a glass of bubbly with you for the long journey.

    12.) How Do I Book Rovos Rail?

    All bookings are done directly through a form. This is isn’t the kind of train that you can book on an app in a second. Fill out the form and then send it off to their email and a representative will get back to you to let you know what is available. Don’t forget to tell them if you are celebrating because they love to make you feel super special.

    Long Journey Reservation Form

    Short Journey Reservation Form

    13.) Can I Smoke On Board Rovos Rail?

    Rovos Rail provides a smoking car, complete with a charming matchbox. This is located just before the bar and observation car at the back. Non-smokers can skip past it as it is a little closed-off lounge with a corridor that runs along the side. You cannot smoke in your room, the dining cars or in the open-air observation car. Make sure you indicate that you smoke on your booking form and they will place your room closer to the smoking car (isn’t that thoughtful!?)

    14.) Is There Internet on Rovos Rail?

    Rovos Rail strives to create an ambience of the golden age of travel. This is more about books and board games than scrolling on phones and tapping on keyboards. As such, they request that guests leave their electronics in their rooms, or at least don’t use them for anything other than photos in the common areas. They do not have WiFi on the train so there isn’t any chance to connect that way. We tried to get eSims for Zimbabwe (we wanted to stay on top of the social media on the go) but they barely picked u any signal the whole time. I am sure this wouldn’t be as bad on the South African routes but honestly, it’s not worth the stress. Just enjoy your digital detox. You’ll be able to connect at each end, most of the stations have WiFi and at most of the Namibian safari accommodations.

    Board games instead of Fortnite for…maybe a fortnight

    15.) What Happens if the Train is Delayed?

    Delays are semi-regular along most of the routes that Rovos Rail serves. Never fear, a certain amount of stoppage time is built into the itinerary. On most evenings the train manager will inform you how long the train will be parked overnight. This ice touch probably tells you how much sleep you’ll get (unless you are better at the sleeping thing than me). If there have been any bad delays during the day, they will just travel a little longer into the night. or leave a little earlier the next morning.

    The train administrative manager on board will connect with you to ensure they have your accurate transfer details for your arrival. If there is a delay they will contact the transfer provider and make sure they are there at the correct time.

    16.) Is There Laundry Available on Rovos Rail?

    You can have some laundry done on board but not your whole wardrobe. Honestly, unless you are just bringing hand luggage, you shouldn’t really need anything washed on the shorter journeys. If you are coming for a longer trip, think about how to reuse the items you have so they can be mixed, matched and washed minimally. There is no way to get dry cleaning done so be careful what evening wear you bring/get washed.

    As well as laundry, your host/hostess can have your clothes pressed for dinner and your shoes shined. There is no excuse to look shabby!

    A Few More Little Rovos Rail Train Tips:

    • Rovos Rail can try and advise you but finding out about entry requirements for the countries you will visit is up to you. Look up visa requirements and prices well in advance.
    • Rovos Rail is not accessible for those in wheelchairs due to the restrictive space on the train.
    • They can extend a train to accommodate more guests but it is unlikely they will pop on a whole extra carriage for just one extra room. It may say sold out despite the stretching capability of the train.
    • Children are allowed on board but they may limit the number and those that are booked are expected to be on best behaviour. Honestly, I am not sure children would enjoy the train that much.

    Final Thoughts for our Rovos Rail Train Tips

    The one thing missing from this post is just how lush travelling with Rovos Rail is. Once you are on board, you don’t need to worry about the logistics any more and can just settle in to the romance of train travel to the rattle of the rails. If you have any other questions, don’t hesitate to message us and we will try and answer it. If we have answered all of your queries then have the best time!

    Rosie xx

  • The Best Luxury Houseboats in Alleppey – A Blue Jelly Cruises Review

    The Best Luxury Houseboats in Alleppey – A Blue Jelly Cruises Review

    On my second trip to Kerala in India, I was lucky enough to spend a wonderful night on board one of the best luxury houseboats in Alleppey. Embarking on this beautiful boat journey through the backwaters of Kerala with Blue Jelly Cruises was a total dream come true. The blend of luxury and nature, the delicious dinners and the chance to relax as local life slipped by. Read on for my full Blue Jelly Cruises review.

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    Flying Fluskey in Alleppey

    Cruising the backwaters of Kerala, was my big unticked box. On our first trip to Kerala, we were unfortunate enough to come up against a strike. Every mode of transport powered by petrol (gas) was resolutely stationary. We were due to take one of the luxury houseboats in Alleppey, but the idea of spending all that money on a boat that didn’t move didn’t appeal. Instead, we hopped on a train down to Varkala, a clifftop resort town, where we chilled out until the end of the trip. Ever since I had suffered severe regret that we didn’t board any of the luxury houseboats in Alleppey.

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    Welcome Onboard our Blue Jelly Cruises Houseboat

    The Kerala Blog Express coach pulled into the entrance to Blue Jelly and, as we were the last to be dropped off, we were all champing at the bit to get on board. The staff took us through the Blue Jelly Resort and onto the private dock. As we boarded the houseboat, into the whoosh of welcome air-conditioning, we were each presented with a pretty flower garland and fresh coconut. I loved putting my flowers in the bathroom. Garlands liven them up and if the garland is made of jasmine, the blooms are a natural air freshener.

    We took our overnight bags to our rooms and settled in as the boat pulled out onto the water. After a quick room tour video, we all dashed to the front to take in the view.

    The Onyx

    Blue Jelly Cruises has four boats and ours, The Onyx, is one of the smaller ones. The interiors were flawlessly clean with one long corridor along the side with a large sinks for hand washing the rooms going off it. I loved the pearlescent flooring which seemed to glow at night.

    At the front was the main room with the dining area and some seating. It had windows all around so was a really nice spot for eating. We requested music and they let us connect to the Bluetooth which made dinner nice and relaxed.

    What Are the Bedrooms Like on Blue Jelly Cruises?

    The decor was modern with a couple of slightly twee additions. Saying that, if I was taking this cruise as a special occasion with my other half, I would love the frilly bed curtains. The large windows with the seating area were great, allowing in lots of light and the chance to take in the views from the comfort of the air-conditioning. We were visiting in monsoon season, and actually, the weather was incredibly kind to us during our sailing, but if it had been raining, we would have taken the chance to sit inside and watch the scenes outside.

    The Beds

    On the Onyx, there are three bedrooms. These can all be made up as doubles or twins depending on the guests’ requirements. As we were travelling in a group, and sharing rooms, our was set with two single beds. The mattresses were very comfortable and I slept really well until the alarm went off in the morning.

    The Amenities

    The room had three plug outlets which were enough for the average person but with all of our electronics, we did struggle. My multiplug wouldn’t work in two of the outlets, and the one that seemed to work must have stopped about two minutes after we went to bed. We woke up and nothing was charged. It wasn’t ideal. However, if we had only had single items that needed charging, it would have been fine.

    There was a large wardrobe with a safe but as we only had small bags, we didn’t use this at all. Instead, we piled everything onto every available surface and lived like slobs for the night.

    The Bathroom

    I was impressed at the size of the bathroom and how “unboaty” it felt. There was tiling around the walls in a nice, warm hue, making it feel very luxe. There was also a huge rainfall shower head in the huge shower. This is not the pokey little shower cubicle you can expect on a regular cruise ship. The water on board, as elsewhere in India, was not for drinking but filtered watered was provided for drinking and brushing our teeth… And speaking of brushing our teeth, there was a full selection of bathroom amenities including a dental kit, comb, shampoo and conditioner etc.

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    What is the Food Like On Board Blue Jelly Cruises?

    We had three meals on board our Blue Jelly Cruise and each was delicious. The emphasis was on local specialities but we were asked about our desired level of spice. There were a couple of members of the group that didn’t enjoy spice so they tempered it for some of the dishes.

    Breakfast

    We were also offered an omelette with our choice of cheese and vegetables. We had black coffee. South Indian coffee tends to be quite weak and very heavy on the milk so if you are more used to a strong blend, opt for black with maybe a little milk on the side.

    Lunch

    This was the first meal we had, an hour or so after we boarded.

    There was a variety of local dishes with some real standouts:

    • The crispy bitter gourd was by far the best way to eat this tricky vegetable
    • The prawns were packed with flavour, both the natural sweet prawn meat and the spices that were added. (Yes, I had way above my allowance).
    • The beans and coconut were a combination I hadn’t tried before but thoroughly enjoyed
    • On a side plate, we all had a Pearl Spot fish. These small fish are quite honey so watch out while you are separating the flakes.
    • The beetroot curd had a wonderful kick along with the sweet creaminess and I had rather a lot.
    Dinner

    Dinner came with all kinds of dishes again.

    • The chicken and king fish was nice but it was all about the rice and curry for me.
    • The soft paneer dish was creamy, a little spicy and highly addictive.
    • Parotta all day day, every day please!

    Very kindly, they provided a bottle of wine for us to enjoy with dinner, which was a very welcome surprise.

    Cruising the Backwaters of Kerala

    The engines at the back of a houseboat puttered, and the gentle waves slapped the hull as the boat carved through the water. They were four seats set just behind the captain and the group settled in, taking in the view. Along the banks of the waterway, people went about their day. I guess they are so used to seeing these tourist boats passing that they barely glanced up. In contrast, when we passed other boats, everybody waved frantically. I mean, it is the rule that you wave to other people on boats.

    However, it wasn’t all relaxing as we were each given a turn at the wheel. Although the river was wide, the backseat captain told us to turn left, left, left, right, right, right! He obviously knew where the shallower areas were that needed to be avoided. It was a lot of fun!

    As the sun set, more and more people came down to the riverside. Some were bathing, some doing the laundry and there were plenty of children playing in the water. It was so lovely to see real life taking place is so naturally something with the water. Of course, on such a big boat, we couldn’t go down the small canals that ran through the villages, but having done so on a previous trip to Kerala, it is clear that these waters are really important to these people’s lives.

    Discovering St Mary’s Church

    Stepping inside, my breath was taken away as I saw the paintings on the ceiling. From its bleached exterior, I wasn’t expecting such a riot of colour within. I was trying to see the organ, which was awfully European of me as there isn’t one. The next morning when we floated past it once again, we heard everybody chanting which was very different from the lacklustre hymns warbled out in churches across the UK every Sunday.

    Relaxing at the Blue Jelly Resort

    Blue Jelly is the only cruise company that has its own private dock, which means that guests can disembark in the evening and relax in the resort. There is a pool here and a room with games, including pool and table tennis. We took some time to play games which I merrily lost… Yes, I lost everything; the games and my dignity.

    Final Thoughts on Time with Blue Jelly Cruises

    If you are craving the perfect blend of glamour in unique natural surroundings, you know where to steer your thoughts. Taking one of the luxury houseboats through Kerala’s tranquil backwaters should be on everyone’s India bucket list. Whether you are with a group of friends, ready to have a small boat party, a work group looking for a special work getaway or a couple organising a romantic honeymoon, you’ll find the perfect houseboat with Blue Jelly Cruises.

    Rosie xx

  • Reaching the Top of Europe – Jungfraujoch with Best of Switzerland Tours

    Reaching the Top of Europe – Jungfraujoch with Best of Switzerland Tours

    When researching Switzerland, there is a huge bucket list of places to visit and things to do. When I learned about Jungfraujoch it leapt straight to the top of mine! Of course, on a train adventure, we had to visit the highest train station in Europe. We are happy independent travellers but sometimes, it is nice to have the extra layer of information, care and simplicity that a tour offers so we decided to travel as part of a group, with Best of Switzerland Tours. Join us as we go up, into the clouds to the Top of Europe, Jungfraujoch.

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    Best of Switzerland Tours

    When debating our options within Switzerland, we were taken with Best of Switzerland Tours. They have over 20 years of experience, have multilingual guides and offered just the itineraries I was thinking of. It was a no-brainer. For our Jungfraujoch tour, we had arranged to be picked up in Interlaken and then to travel all the way to Zürich with Best of Switzerland Tours that evening. This is always such a great way to move from one spot to another so check to see if they do multiple pick ups or drop offs on your chosen tour. The large coaches have room for bags underneath so no drama!

    Pick Up in Grindelwald

    All of the Best of Switzerland Tours adventures start from the front of the Interlaken Outdoor Shop. There were a couple of seats but we all huddled when it started drizzling. Luckily, it didn’t last too long and our guide took us around the back to the car park. We passed our big bags over to the driver and then head up the coach stairs to find some seats on the top deck. This gave us super views as the bus wound its way through the valley to gorgeous Grindelwald. Along the way, we had some interesting commentary and important information from our guide, Regula over the coach’s loudspeaker.

    The Eiger Express

    We were given a short bathroom break after everyone disembarked from the coach and then we all gathered together, ready to board the Eiger Express. To reach the first stop, Eigergletscher (Eiger Glacier) everybody used to take the train but in December 2020 a huge new cable car opened. This lovely, modern cable car whisks you up in just 15 minute whilst affording some rather nice views.

    The group had their tickets handed out and we were all told emphatically not to lose them. These tickets aren’t cheap and if you lose it, you are paying your own way back down! We scanned through the ticket barriers and divided into two gondolas. We all had a great view as the cable car whooshed out of the station and over the lush green fields of the Bernese Oberland.

    About five minutes into the ride, we rose into the clouds and rain. Drops gently caught the windows and the photographers of the group started to look nervous as they tried to capture the evergreen forests below. Just two minutes after, however, we had bypassed the rainy spot and instead emerged into a world of white snow and dark rock. The beautiful icy vistas continued until we piled out at our second station stop.

    Eigergletscher Station – 2,320 m

    We had a short break once again to explore Eigergletscher Station or run for a wee. We wandered out onto the snowy plateau, excited to see the snow falling but sad that it was whiting out lots of the view. There were some people up there that had never seen snow before and watching the children, especially, discovering the joys and chilly wetness of it was so much fun. I wonder how many people have had their first experience of snow here in the last 125 years.

    Of course, I dropped and nearly lost my important ticket and so had a quick rethink about where I kept it.

    Jungfrau Cogwheel Railway

    Once back together, the group took the escalator down to the platform for the iconic cogwheel railway. We were all given a pretend Swiss passport which had loads of info about Jungfraujoch and a space to get it stamped at the top. We decided to have a quick flick through it on the train ride.

    The cogwheel railway has been running for over a hundred years and has two tracks. This one took us up and then we hopped on the other to come the other way. The cogwheel (or rack) railway works by combing a toothed wheel and a grooved middle rail. It makes a rather unique noise as it sets off and rattles its way up the hill. Well, actually it is through the hill. This railway actually travels steeply through the mountain in a long tunnel. There isn’t much of a view but it is very novel.

    Halfway up is a stop that it usually pauses at, we were told that we were not going to be stopping there but soon, the plan changed and we found we were actually going to get the chance to see Eismeer Station.

    Eismeer Station – 3,159 m

    The main idea of Eismeer is to give everyone a view of Ischmeer (Ice Sea). We weren’t so lucky. Everyone rushed off the train, with calls of, “Only five minutes” ringing in our ears. Sadly, the fog/cloud had completely obscured any view and it was like the blinds were shut on the other side of the glass. We giggled at our bad fortune, took a photo or two and ran back to the train.

    No, this isn’t a broken picture…this was the view
    So excited

    Touching the Top of Europe, Jungfraujoch – 3454 m

    The next station was the big one, Jungfraujoch! The whole train emptied out, everyone following their respective tour guides. Regula took us straight through the cafe, explaining that we would be meeting back there and the specified time. Half of our group didn’t seem to be listening so I was curious to see how that would go.

    Jungfraujoch – The Sphinx

    Our first stop was a group trip up The Sphinx. This rocky overlook holds the name of The Sphinx, as does the astronomical observatory on top. The public can head out onto the open metal platform and take in the view of the three main mountain peaks visible from here; Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau. At least, that was what we were hoping for but we were greeted by a wall of grey. Tourists stood around taking photos of each other against the dull backdrop and of the Sphinx building, the only visible landmark. We did the same but when t started snowing, decided to duck back inside for the indoor activities on offer. (After scoffing our pretty poor packed lunch and waiting for our feet to warm up).

    Another stunning view
    Catching snowflakes
    Jungfraujoch – The Alpine Sensation Exhibition

    The group dispersed as some decided to go through the exhibition and others bypassed it. We wanted to see as much as possible so we head on in. This was a fun museum detailing the building of the railway and Jungfraujoch. I loved the section all about the old hotel which once stood up here that sadly, burned down. It would have been phenomenal to stay up here. Mr Fluskey particularly loved all the old black-and-white photos of the construction years with workers and their families looking so smart. We thought that the moving walkway was a nice touch for those that struggle with mobility but we walked back to take a longer look at the exhibits.

    Jungfraujoch – The Ice Palace

    I had seen photos of the ice tunnel that forms the entrance of the Ice Palace but I never knew the whole thing was frozen!? I guess it makes sense as this has been carved inside the glacier. Everyone half walks, half ice skates along the thin ice tunnel, giggling and trying to skid whilst hanging onto the railing for dear life. It was great fun. We traversed this corridor before arriving at an ice museum. There were some really cool ice carvings and we made ourselves laugh far too hard at the ice bar, (no vodka on offer here though). Sadly, Mr Fluskey’s boots were so good at gripping that he couldn’t skate very well, whereas I loved slipping and sliding through the attraction.

    Jungfraujoch – The Plateau

    We head up three floors and felt a cold wind blowing in. This was the exit to the Plateau. The snow was whipping in and it was a steep little climb out to the wide section of exposed mountain. We saw everyone taking photos over by a big Swiss flag so of course we went and waited our turn. As we did, the snow stopped and it began to brighten up a little.

    As the sky was a little brighter we walked past this mildly cleared section and found knee-deep, untouched snow. It was really tempting to make snow angels but it seemed like a bad plan with no change of clothes. I nearly fell face forward into the drifts as we struggled across. Then, all of a sudden, a cloud shifted, the sun broke through and we could see the mountain peak behind, edged by blue sky. I mildly freaked out with excitement. Finally, a view…and it lasted for three whole minutes. We made our way back down the slope slowly and carefully, deciding to head back up the Spinx just incase we had another glimpse of sky.

    Jungfraujoch – Lindt Swiss Chocolate Heaven

    The Lindt shop is the highest in the world and so we couldn’t skip it completely but we did rather rush through it. There were two rooms, one which seemed like a little museum and then a smaller, very, very busy shop stuffed with delicious Lindt chocolate. We dashed through, mouths watering and thank goodness we did because, on the way out, an extremely kind cashier gave us a Lindt ball each. After our dry sandwich lunch, this was a real treat.

    Jungfraujoch – The Sphinx 2 (Electric Boogaloo)

    We stormed back down the stairs and up the long stone corridor to the Sphinx lift. I could see sunshine as the door opened and ran to the door for the outdoors. There, still hazy but distinctly visible compared to before was one of the three peaks. It was so crazy to see what that grey cloud was hiding, majestic mountains covered in pretty snow. I was far too happy! Soon enough the peak disappeared again but as the clear spot travelled across the mountains, the other peaks made their own cameo in our day. All in all, we got about ten minutes of glorious sunshine and stunning views. I am so, so glad we made our mad dash.

    Jungfraujoch – The Cafe

    As the cloud moved in again, we checked our watches and realised we had about 30 minutes left before the meeting time. We decided to go down to the cafe, wait and warm up. Plus, if they had some sort of delicious boozy hot chocolate to sip while we waited, I was all for it. Sadly there was no Baileys hot choccy to be had but we did find a nice table by the window. I was a little tempted by the schnapps but thought better of it. Giving up on the view, we stamped our pretend passports and waited for our group to appear. At the meeting time, Regula, our guide, and two other people had gathered. She gave everyone five more minutes but the train was leaving whether they were there or not so off we went.

    The Cogwheel 2 – The Descent

    Everybody ran and managed to make the train in time and we all settled in for our cogwheel journey downhill. We had a nice chat with some fellow group members who had discovered a bar. It was out by the area with the adventure sports. I was a little jealous but just at that moment, a lovely train conductor came through and gave us all a little Lindt chocolate bar. Two free choccies in one day!

    The Final Train

    The train came out of the tunnel and into a flurry of snowflakes. The snow we’d seen thus far was light and small but this was real snow, falling in big, insistent flakes. We had a 20 minute change at Kleine Scheldegg and everyone crammed into the warm, dry ticket office.

    The final train of the day took us back into the world of green grass and tourist accommodation. We chugged down the sides of steep slopes through open-sided concrete tunnels and under ski slopes. Train wound down towards and around the car-free village of Wengen where the train filled up with people on their own day trips. The final leg took us through the beautiful town of Lauterbrunnen and its iconic waterfalls. We didn’t actually have any time to sightsee here so i was really glad we saw it the day before.

    The Coach to Zürich

    Everyone walked straight from the train station to the coach park where I ran for a bathroom stop and then back to the coach. We settled into our red leather seats, plugged in our phones and prepared for a comfy three-hour ride to Zürich. We picked the wrong side for the nice views but caught a few pretty vistas. Mr Fluskey slept for quite a bit of the way but just as my eyes started closing, we got some commentary about Zürich. I perked up as it meant Zürich was approaching and we were soon driving through the city streets. We pulled into the main bus station and grabbed our bags, ready for the fifteen-minute walk to Krone Zurich Pop Up Hostel.

    Final Thoughts for Our Day at the Top of Europe, Jungfraujoch with Best of Switzerland Tours

    This day tour was a long day but it flew by and I loved nearly all of it. Of course, I was very disappointed when I thought that we wouldn’t see anything but the pure serotonin hit when the sun came out was divine. I wonder if we had still been up there if we hadn’t been on Best of Switzerland’s timeline? Either way, it was really nice to relax and be guided for the day after organising a month of interrailing. Leave the logistics to someone else and take it all in!

    I can’t help it, I am a bit of a box ticker when it comes to Europe and I just couldn’t leave Switzerland without seeing the top of Europe, Jungfraujoch. Next stop, Tanggula Mountain Railway Station (the highest train station in the whole world).

    Rosie xx

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  • Taking a Dip in the Devil’s Pool – Victoria Falls

    Taking a Dip in the Devil’s Pool – Victoria Falls

    If someone built a hotel, with an infinity pool that truly overlooked The Victoria Falls, it would be on every traveller’s bucket list. In Zambia, Mother Nature has gone one better creating an infinity pool on the edge of Victoria Falls! Daring tourists travel from across the world to take a dip in the scarily named Devil’s Pool, and we eagerly joined our tour back in November 2018. Join us as we take a dip in the Devil’s Pool Victoria Falls.

     

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    Our Devil’s Pool Tour with Tamuka Travel

    Zimbabwe to Zambia

    Our hotel, The Victoria Falls Hotel, was set on the Zimbabwean side of the falls so we were picked up nice and early. The minivan took us across the bridge that serves as the border crossing between Zimbabwe and Zambia. Our tourist visa allowed us to cross freely between the two nations. The transport took us up the road a little, through Livingstone and to the Royal Livingstone Hotel.

    Royal Livingstone by Anantara

    Although our tour was booked through Tamuka Travel, they are run by Tongabezi Lodge, they take advantage of the Royal Livingstone’s position further downstream. The hotel has stunning grounds, which I totally failed to take photos of (sorry)! Zebras and other animals wander the area and yet, they still have a perfectly manicured lawn that runs down to the river.

    The Zambezi River

    We all donned our lifejackets before hopping into the boat. It very quickly gathered speed and we zoomed downriver, making sure to skim over the eddies and currents. The river, at the point it cascades over the Victoria Falls is a whopping 1700m (5500ft) wide so crisscrossing it put it in perspective. We slalomed between small islands as the boat captain scanned the water for hippos and crocodiles. 

    Livingstone Island

    Livingstone Island is one of the two islands that are large enough to split the flow of the falls throughout the year. At high water, it looks tiny but in early November it is fully exposed, including this river channel which is reduced to a stream with high sides.

    The island, which looked so small from the river, opened up in front of us and it was strangely easy to forget the swiftly flowing river to either side.
    On arrival, we were all given a nice non-alcoholic welcome drink.
    Maybe a stiffer drink would have helped calm our nerves after seeing this sign!

    Dr Livingstone, I Presume

    This monument to Livingstone is the only permanent structure on Livingstone Island

    Livingstone Island was named for Dr David Livingstone. This Scottish explorer first came across Victoria Falls in 1855. Members of the Makolo tribe took him in their canoes, down the Zambezi to see Mosi oa Tunya (the smoke that thunders). He, in the way British explorers tended to, renamed the waterfall. He labelled them Victoria Falls after the Queen of Great Britain. His gushing words, about the gushing waters, brought the falls to the attention of European interests and by 1900, settlements were already established for business and tourism alike.

    “The whole scene was extremely beautiful; the banks and islands dotted over the river are adorned with sylvan vegetation of great variety of colour and form…no one can imagine the beauty of the view from any thing witnessed in England. It had never been seen before by European eyes; but scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight.” – Dr David Livingstone.

    This Way to Victoria Falls

    We hiked a small distance along a path that emerged into an open rocky expanse. It was only then that it became clear that this island ended at the Victoria Falls. It might seem stupid to say, but it was a weird and wonderful moment!

    We walked across the irregular rocks and with slightly wobbly knees, edged towards the waterfall line. From here, the famous double rainbow came into view and it took my breath away. The earlier in the day you arrive, the clearer this beautiful bonus will be.

    I wondered if anyone could see us from the Zimbabwean side, through the haze

    Along the Line

    It was time to ditch the clothes and take to the water. There is a line strung between Livingstone Island and the outcrop that creates the Devil’s Pool. To reach the pool we had to follow this rope, ensuring we didn’t cross it. I thought that at five foot tall, I may be swimming most of it, but it was less than a minute of swimming, meaning the rest was just wading through the water or picking my way over submerged rocks. The river was a little nippy but refreshing in the heat of the Zambian sun.

    Taking a Dip in the Devil’s Pool

    From the high rock that we gathered on, we were instructed to descend into the deep area of water and swim directly in one direction to ensure we were out of any currents. In our small groups, we took turns to swim over to the best spot for photos and gazing over the edge. Tourists used to be allowed to dive into the pool but we were told that this was no longer allowed. We both jumped in with a yelp. If you aren’t so confident, there is a route down the rocks instead.

    There was a definite thrill as we made our way across the pool, but the current didn’t seem too strong so the adrenaline just morphed into excitement. The power of the water crashing to either side blew spray up towards us, and it felt utterly surreal to be in a gentle stream that was headed in the same direction as the surging river.

    There are small fish in the pool that enjoy having a little nibble on your feet. Don’t freak out and just enjoy the free foot spa as you enjoy the crazy scenery!

    On the Edge

    The guides are immensely confident and clearly have their routines down to the letter. One chap took our GoPro and directed our photoshoot while the others hung onto our ankles to ensure we didn’t get silly and go over the edge into oblivion.

    (I hesitate to share these as we were not at our physical best but here they are, so look away now if you are of a nervous disposition).

    Lunch on Livingstone Island

    After swimming/paddling our way back across to Livingstone Island, we wandered back to a nice open-sided cabin. We were all given a drink and a light lunch of a tasty bagel. Our tour was a “morning breezer tour” but later in the day, there is the chance to take a tour with a multi-course lunch or an afternoon tea.

    Ours wasn’t a meal to linger over as we were soon encouraged to grab our belongings and join the boat ride back to the Royal Livingstone.

    Everything You Need to Know Before Visiting Devil’s Pool Victoria Falls

    Tours

    Tours to Livingstone Island run from June to December, exclusively run by Tongabezi. We booked ours through a company called Tamuka Travel, that was excellent. Swimming in the Devil’s Pool is only available when the water is low enough to be safe, this is generally from mid-August to the end of December. But do check conditions before you book if you definitely want to swim. You must be eight or older to visit Livingstone Island and over twelve to enter Devil’s Pool.

    Timings

    There are five tours a day;

    07:30 – Breezer $110

    09:00 – Breezer $110

    10:30 – Breezer $110

    12:30 – Lunch $175

    15:30 – Afternoon Tea $150

    If you are staying on the Zimbabwean side of the falls, and have the combination visa, you are able to visit the Zambian side to visit the Devil’s Pool. The border formalities do add a little time to the journey so bear this in mind when you are planning your tour time if you don’t like to get up too early.

    Packing for The Devil’s Pool

    Things to pack:

    • Clothes – Yes, you might be swimming but not for the entire tour. We packed some undies to change into once the wet portion was finished. 
    • Sun cream – Protect your skin and make sure you bring some to reapply once you have been swimming. 
    • Sunglasses – It can be quite bright and so to enjoy the view, bring your sunnies.
    • Shoes – The rocks are rough so make sure they have a decent sole.
    • Swimming Gear – If you are swimming, you’ll need to bring something to wear! We suggest some study swimwear, it would be awful to watch your strappy bikini bottoms whoosh over the edge of the falls!

    Things you don’t need to pack:

    • Drinks and Food – These are provided on the island.
    • Towel – Thankfully, there is the chance to dry off and the towels are supplied meaning you don’t have to heft yours around during the tour.
    Safety

    Since the launch of these tours, there have been no serious injuries on Livingstone Island or in the Devil’s Pool. The small instances there have been, have all been related to slipping on the rocks. Listen to guides and follow their guidance. They are great at what they do, and absolutely have your best interests at heart. 

    Accommodation

    There is no shortage of beautiful hotels in the area surrounding Victoria Falls. We were lucky enough to stay at two amazing hotels, Tongabezi Lodge and Victoria Falls Hotel. Follow these links to see full reviews.

    Final Thoughts on Devil’s Pool, Victoria Falls.

    They call this kind of activity “soft adventure”. This means there is a fabulous adrenaline rush but less risk involved. It is a wonderfully accessible adventure, allowing people from all over the globe, and at all levels of fitness to take part. It is the most exciting way to see Victoria Falls and should truly be on everyone’s bucket list. 

    Some thought we were mad, some thought it looked epic, some were just thoroughly confused about the desire to look over a ridiculous chasm: we look back with wistful, misty rainbow memories of a dip in the Devil’s Pool, Victoria Falls.

    Rosie xx

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  • Riding the Rails – Taking The Night Train from Yangon to Bagan

    Riding the Rails – Taking The Night Train from Yangon to Bagan

    There are several ways to travel from Yangon to Bagan in Burma (Myanmar). Some people choose to fly. Others, on a tighter budget, book nighttime buses. We just HAD to try out the train! I know what you’re thinking, “Another train story”? …Well, if you insist! Join us on the night train from Yangon to Bagan.

    We love a train ride! Check out our other Riding the Rails blog posts here.

    Buying Tickets for the Train from Yangon to Bagan

    After a little research, and trawling The Man in Seat 61, we found the 12go Asia website. We had never used this website before but it seemed to have all sorts of transport on there and great reviews.

    We put in our request for tickets and during the process, were given the option to refuse lower bunks, take a different train and a few other options. Great stuff! Train tickets in Myanmar aren’t released until close to the departure date so we put in our preferred date and crossed our fingers.

    Top Tip: There are a few different classes of travel, from hard wooden seats, to full padded sleepers. For the flat beds, you will want to book Upper Class Sleeper.

    Picking Up the Tickets

    The day before we were due to travel, our booking was confirmed. Yangon to Bagan, on the sleeper train, in seats A1 and A2. Perfect. All we had to do then was pop to their office in Yangon to swap the tickets. We had booked at Rangoon Boutique Hostel, just around the corner from the shop and the station so this took no time…once we had found it.

    Top Tip: It worth noting that the office (EPG Travel) isn’t too easy to find. To pick up your tickets, look for the True Coffee shop and just to the right there is a slope leading into the condominium. Walk down the slope and around to the left, you will find a lift. That will take you up to the fifth floor where you’ll find the EPG Travel offices to your left

    Boarding the Night Train to Bagan

    When we arrived at Yangon Central Station (a ten minute walk from the office, our tickets were checked and we were directed to platform three. We walked down the platform, past the waiting throngs, and back through a gate. More helpful guards pointed out the bridge crossing and we lumbered over.

    It was easy enough to find our carriage as gangs of children dashed over to show us the way. They held cold water and snacks, and once we were in our section, they darted in and out to try and make a sale. One girl spent quite a long time trying to convince us to buy water, then played on my phone for a bit.

    What is Like On Board a Sleeper Train in Myanmar? – The Practical Stuff

    The Carriage

    Our sleeper compartment slept four in an unusual configuration. There was no adjoining corridor connecting all of the compartments, instead, we were totally isolated from the rest of the train. It was good not to have people bumping into us but I was hoping to take a wander through the carriages and meet some people. I could have changed carriages at one of the stops but didn’t quite have the guts.

    Our roommates were a french couple who were pleasant enough but not so chatty. For a while, we thought they didn’t speak English but it turned out, they were pretty fluent.

    The Hygiene

    I am not a clean freak by any means but this night train from Yangon to Bagan was pretty mucky. The general carriage interior was very dusty. I guess that is only to be expected with open windows. However, the bathroom and other side room were both filthy. I found myself craving the odd antibacterial wipe.

    The Seats

    PROS

    • Each passenger has two seats to themselves meaning we all got a nice view out of the window.
    • The covers reminded me of 1990s Network Rail.
    • The seats could be reclined a little.
    • There was a ton of legroom.
    • There was a table between the seats for dinner time.

    CONS

    • The covers were old and ripped.
    • The padding was OK, but not quite comfy enough for the level of bouncing we did.
    The Fixtures And Fittings

    Our carriage had a small luggage rack between the two upper bunks but this was only used for rubbish and food bags. Also on the ceiling, there was a small fan. We were thankful for this when we first boarded but it was quickly shut off when the evening took hold.

    The windows could be closed which was a relief when the temperature dropped. There were also wooden shutters along with the light green curtains to block out the flashing lights of the world outside passing by. The shutters were quite heavy but once you got the hang of them, they were easy enough to open and close.

    The Bathroom

    As mentioned, this little room was less than pristine. It seemed coated in years of dust and dirt rather than freshly grimy. Changing in there was rather unpleasant. As the train bucked underneath me, I reached for the wall and then regretted it a little.

    The toilet was a metal drop loo, like the kind found on Indian trains. Below, the tracks were clearly visible as they whizzed below. To flush, there was a small hose (bum gun). No toilet roll was provided.

    The sink drained onto the floor so I used the hose to wash my hands directly down the loo instead, trying to maintain the dry floor.

    What is Like On Board a Night Train in Myanmar? – The Experience

    “Strap yourselves on folks, it’s going to be a bumpy ride”.

    The Tracks

    The train began to rock and queasy thoughts of seasickness crossed my mind. Can you throw up out the window of a train without losing your head? I really didn’t fancy using the toilet that we all had to share. As it didn’t flush with water, it would have been a very messy business. Luckily, the sideways rocking only happened occasionally, and wasn’t bad enough to induce any sickness.

    I was expecting bumps, and had even heard rumours of frequent derailments. It was as I thought. We bounced our way through the Burmese countryside and rattled across railway crossings. Children waved and we waved frantically back.

    Mickey

    I said before that there were four of us sharing the cabin…that wasn’t quite true. The fifth member of our travelling gang was a small, light grey mouse. He only made a few appearances but one of them was on the french couple’s chair. I’m not scared of mice but I am not a fan of waking up to one scampering across my face and that was on mind all through the night.

    Top Tip: Tie food bags to the luggage rack between the beds.

    Dinner Time

    As night fell, the waiter knocked and handed us two polystyrene boxes. One was full of the fried rice we had ordered from him a little earlier, and the other containing questionable looking chicken. A memory of the misunderstanding between Mr Fluskey and the waiter popped up. Oh yes, he had put two fingers up, and called it, “Fried rice, and chicken”, not chicken fried rice.

    We wolfed down the rice (oily but inoffensive) but didn’t know what to do about the chicken, so we hid it in the room at the end of the carriage in the hopes it may lure Mickey away from the sleeping area.

    Bedtime

    Everyone made nighttime stirrings, closing the curtains and shutters on the windows, putting sheets on the bed, and the whole pantomime show of big, fake yawns.

    As I settled into my “bed”, I realised just how uncomfortable it was. The metal casings of the chairs could be clearly felt by a hipbone. The chairs tipped away from the centre meaning my head was tipped back at a strange angle. Oh, and there was no blanket. I don’t know whether they forgot to give us one or if that is standard but we only had one sheet, and a pillow.

    The Fridge

    The cold began to creep in. At first it wasn’t too bad, but as the night progressed I put on more and more clothes to try and combat the chill. By morning, I was in:

    • my pyjamas,
    • a cardigan,
    • a maxi dress,
    • a down jacket,
    • two pairs of socks
    • sleeping under a scarf

    ….and I was still covered in goose pimples and desperate for the sun to heat up the carriage.

    Top Tip: BRING A BLANKET, A SLEEPING BAG OR SEVENTY MILLION LAYERS

    I know this logo on the sheet stands for Myanmar Railways….but it totally says Mr Boobs!
    The Sleep

    It was a combination of the constant, violent movement, and arctic conditions (ok, that is a touch hyperbolic) that meant I was awake all night. It should have been called the “not-so-much-sleep-er-train”. Still, I didn’t manage to binge-watch the entire first series of Sex Education on Netflix so you know, every cloud!

    Morning Time

    At 7:20, we had a knock on the door

    “Hello!”

    I was in a weird daze, thinking the night would never end and so I didn’t really clock that this was real.

    “Hellooooo”

    This was accompanied by a loud knock on the window that made myself and my french companions jump out of our skins. The waiter was back with their breakfast so it officially time to reset our seats and give up on sleep.

    All except for Mr Fluskey who was finally getting some rest so I left him to it.

    Arriving in Bagan by Train

    The night train from Yangon to Bagan was due to arrive at 09:30, and as this time approached I gave Mr Fluskey a little shake to get him up and off his bunk. I knew we were running late but not sure exactly by how much. The train slowly crawled towards Bagan, stopping at red signals on the single track.

    The train pulled into Bagan at 10:50, only an hour and twenty minutes later than scheduled. Considering the swathes of reports I had read that said they were often hours and hours late, this wasn’t too bad.

    Getting to Nyaung-U from Bagan Train Station

    Taxi drivers and tuk-tuk drivers descended upon the tourists on the train platform. We agreed to a taxi into town for 8000 MMK (around £4) which may have been slightly too much but we were SO tired that we just wanted to get to a real bed. If you good at haggling, 6000 MMK should be manageable.

    Shared pickup trucks ply the main road a short walk from the front of the station. We believe they take people into Nyuang-U but not being on a tight budget, we didn’t investigate fully.

    The taxi stopped at a checkpoint and we paid for our Bagan Tourist Ticket. They took our photo (after no sleep, that was mean). This tickets covers tourists for the whole Bagan area for a week but in reality it is checked rarely. We had two checks out of about fifty pagodas. Still, we did see people having to pay during one these checks so I wouldn’t skip it.

    Information for Taking the Night Train to Bagan from Yangon

    If you are thinking of taking the night train, here are a few things you might like to know:

    • Tickets are available four days before the date of travel. If you are in Yangon, you can go and purchase them yourself but get there quickly as the sleepers can sell out.
    • 12Go Asia is a good option for those that either won’t be in town when tickets are released or just don’t fancy the effort of getting the station etc
    • Rangoon Boutique House is a good budget hostel close to both the 12Go Asia offices and the station.
    • For those on a swankier budget, check out Zealax Hotel and Residence. It is not near the station at all, but was rather lovely and they can organise a transfer.

    When you’re ready to leave Bagan, check out How to Travel Bagan to Mandalay by Boat on an Irrawaddy Cruise

    Final Thoughts on the Night Train from Yangon to Bagan

    I am so conflicted about our night train from Yangon to Bagan. I am glad we tried it but regret bitterly that we didn’t have any kind of blanket. Whether that is their fault for not giving us one or ours for not bringing one, I am not sure. Either way, I was bloody freezing and wouldn’t choose to repeat the experience in a hurry.

    I am wondering whether a day time train trip would have been a better plan than the sleeper train from Yangon to Bagan, then there wouldn’t have been that terrible attempt at sleep, and we would have been warm. The run between Mandalay and Hsipaw, passing over the infamous Goteik Viaduct is meant to be a lovely journey. Maybe we should try that one next time eh!?

    Rosie xx