Tag: riding the rails

  • Riding the Rails – VIA Rail Canadian from Vancouver to Toronto

    Riding the Rails – VIA Rail Canadian from Vancouver to Toronto

    Canada is vast, evidenced by the fact it takes five days to go from one side of the country to the other on a train (and that’s the slimmest bit). To embark on this epic adventure, which we took in 2025, you need to board The Canadian. Four glistening silver trains which have been plying the route since the 1950s make up the fleet that operates the route and it was our turn to see why people completely fall in love with the journey. Join us for our full VIA Rail Canadian from Vancouver to Toronto review.

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    Don’t miss our post stuffed full of 40 tips for taking the VIA Rail Canadian HERE

    A Quick History of the VIA Rail Canadian

    Traversing Canada from one side to the other seems so very easy in 2025. Hop on a plane and you can do it in 4.5 hours, hop on the train and its 5 days. Google thinks that you could make the journey by walking solidly for 28 days, but that just isnt practical! In the 1800s, you didn’t really have a good way to travel from coast to coast. Well, when British Columbia joined the Confederation, they wanted to ensure a rail connection to the rest of the country. It took years, but in 1885, the Canadian Pacific Railway was completed.

    Passenger trains were launched and these were rather swish. Think plush sleeper cars, big-windowed dome coaches, and full-on dining cars serving proper meals on white tablecloths. Cars began to dominate the travel scene and by the 1960s, plane travel became accessible to the masses. The trains just didn’t hold the same appeal with fewer and fewer tickets selling. The government took over in 1977, and VIA Rail was formed. They reduced the train network but The Canadian was kept in place with its fabulous 1950s rolling stock in place. It is now mostly a tourist train, although that does include a decent number of domestic tourists, keen to relax and see some of their own country from eye level. With slow travel and climate concerns gaining popularity in the travel sector, it seems that it will continue to sell out for years to come.

    Our Trip

    After deciding I fancied starting our holiday in Vancouver, and ending in Niagara Falls we needed to look at logistics. There are those that board the VIA Rail Canadian and don’t disembark four four nights, travelling the whole 4,466km (2,775 mile) journey in one go. I thought about doing this but decided, this would be a perfect reason to stop off in a more unusual destination. After some research, I settled on the city of Winnipeg, about halfway along. So we split the trip into two halves: two nights from Vancouver to Winnipeg, and then another two from there to Toronto. Honestly, I would have liked to stop off in Jasper too but as the train only comes every few days, it extended the trip too much for our annual leave allowance. Plus, I figured we would have the chance to return to Jasper on a future adventure.

    Departing Pacific Central Station

    We arrived rather early for our train adventure. Call me paranoid but I love contingency time and it gae us time to look around. The Pacific Central Station is a rather grand building that dates back to 1917. It retains many of its original features, including long wooden benches which, although asthetically pleasing, are murder on your bottom! The vintage clock hanging from the ceiling, roman numersals and all, told us that we were two hours early. We were just keen to get into the lounge and grab a coffee. Lounge access is only granted once you are checked in, but there was nobody at the desk as the inbound train was running late.

    Check In

    Happily, they allowed us to drop our luggage off so at least we weren’t weighed down by our backpacks. Everyone is encouraged to check in their larger bags, only bringing a small hand luggage into their carriage in an effort to ensure everyone has enough room. We had decanted two days of things into tote bags.

    After poppng across the road for some pictures, we decided to line up, ready to check in. We were directed to the Sleeper Class queue and waited for about thirty minutes. They called forward the Prestige passengers and the n it was our turn. The check in was fast, with the staff clearly a little rushed. They couldn’t begin the check in until the train had arrived and so they were struggling to get it turned around in the shortest possible time.

    We showed our passport and tickets before being shown to a seocnd desk where we could request a dining time. Our train had just one dining car for the Sleeper Class passengers (in summer there are two), and so there were three times to choose from. The middle slot, the classic dinner time had all been snapped up so we decided to go for the latest sitting.

    The Lounge

    Honestly, the lounge feels slightly misnamed. There were a few seats inside in what was essentially a corridor. We found a station with tea, coffee, chocolate and biscuits so I grabbed a coffee. Most of the seating was outside. It was in the shade so it was a bit chilly. Mr Fluskey popped back in and got a hot chocolate, mostly to keep his hands warm. We sat and waited, chatting to two fellow passengers that strangely, we never saw on board. They made an announcement to apologise for a further delay and put on the patio heaters.

    All Aboard

    The iconic call of “All Aboard” (“Tous à Bord”), rang out across the station and we excitedly scrambled up to join the throng. Everyone surged forward and began the walk along the platform. There were buggies to help those that would struggle with the walk which was nice as it is a long train!

    We found our carriage and were greeted by our room attendant who advised us to head to our room and wait for her. It was so exciting and we began poking around, exploring the nooks and crannies of our cabin for two. She popped her head around the door and then came in to show us the details of the cabin and explain how she would convert the beds using a special key.

    Roll Away Party

    After the briefing, we made a mad dash for the back of the train and the fancy Park car. I had read somewhere that this was the main hangout for the Prestige passengers. In the summer, we wouldn’t be allowed in here until 16:00 on day two, so we thought we would make the most of being here for this departure. There were canapes being handed out and little glasses of bubbly for everyone. It was less than five minutes after we arrived that the station platforms began to slide away and the train was off. The most was jubilant and the conversation pleasingly social.

    I popped down the bar and asked if we were allowed a second glass of sparkling wine and they said of course! I don’t know if anyone else knew this because I didn’t see anyone else take advantage. What rookies. The grey suburbs of Vancouver morphed into industrial areas running alongside the tracks. Crossing a long bridge and rounding a bend, we left the urban world behind, ready to roll our way towards The Rockies.

    A Look Around the VIA Rail Canadian

    Our Room – A Cabin for Two

    There are several options for travelling on the VIA Rail Canadian. Economy offers reclining seats, the berths are seats by day and bunkbeds by night, cabins for one are teeny tiny single rooms with a sink and toilet, and Prestige rooms have double beds and ensuite bathrooms. We opted for a very happy medium., the cabin for two.

    The Room

    By day, the cabin has two seats. These can be moved around but not super easily. There is a nice picture window, ideal for watching the world slip past by day and for a touch of stargazing at night. We could ask for the lower bunk to be left down if we fancied a nap or just wanted to stretch out but we liked having the extra space during the day.

    I have heard people say that these rooms are tiny but honestly, when compared to Amtrak’s roomettes or the Caledonian Sleeper’s classic room, they are bigger by at least a foot in each direction and that doesnt include the attached toilet. There was plenty of room during the day, but with the beds down and the ladder out, it was tight.

    The Bed

    The beds were prepared nightly by the room attendants, using a special key. The bottom bunk was from the wall, Murphy bed style, and the top came down from the ceiling. The alcove that it came from gave the top bunkbed a good amount of headroom. Mr Fluskey could sit up easily. The bedding consisted of a proper duvet cover and a reasonably plump pillow. I like a high pillow shelf, so I popped a thin blow-up pillow underneath, but it was enough for Mr Fluskey. It was a nice, comfortable sleep, especially decent for a train bed.

    The Bathroom

    Within the room is a sink which is really handy. It does let noise into the room from the pipes but putting the plug down really helps and putting a towel over that is even better. As well as the tap for washing your hands etc, there is a drinking water tap. This is amazing and saves so many trips down to other cars to get a midnight glug. We got soap and moisturiser provided. On both of our trains, these were different brnds so it is a fun lucky dip to see what you end up with.

    The cabin for two has a teeny en suite, delightfully named “The Annex”. This really is small but it is so nice to have your own toilet. This, combined with the sink in the room, mean you can get ready for bed without queueing for the bathroom, or go for a midnight wee without running into anyone else. It works like a cruise toilet, vacuuming the waste away after a worrying long thinking period. Apparently, the pipes can freeze in the dead of winter but we had no issues and it was really rather cold outside. I bought a room freshener packet to hang in the toilet, keeping it smelling fresher during the trip.

    The Shower

    Each sleeper carriage has a shower located between the sleeper cabins and the berths. There is a changing area before you hop into the shower itself with enough room for most people to get dry comfortably. Mr Fluskey tried the shower and said it was warm and had a medium flow. Apparently, a few years ago, someone left the shower running and flooded the carriage so now they all have timer buttons (like the local swimming pool). This can get tedious, but it is better than having a room full of shower water. They provide a shower kit with a towel, soap and shampoo.

    Storage

    Storage is limited within the cabin, hence having to leave the bigger bags to go in the luggage car. There is a large shelf up above the toilet which easily fit our two hand luggage sized backpacks. Above the sink is a small cubby for washbags. We couldn’t fit both of ours here but mine has a hanging hook so I could pop it elsewhere.

    A thin hanging space by the door. is for your coats and boots (or whatever it is you need in summer). Above that is a mini locker for any bits and bobs you need handy, but don’t want cluttering the room the whole time. Some people use this for snacks, and it’s worth remembering that this should only be shelf-stable goodies, as there is no fridge available. Mind you, you will be very well fed, so you shouldn’t need any to be honest.

    Exploring the VIA Rail Canadian

    We didn’t spend loads of time in our cabin during the day opting, instead, to make the most of the other cars.

    Skyline Cars (Upstairs)

    Our train had two Skyline Cars with domed glass roofs designed for maximum views. The first of the Skyline cars was based in the economy section of the train and was reserved exclusively for those passengers. Ours was a hub of activities. The Skyline Car has the most divine 1950s styling and I fell utterly in love with its retro charm. I spent the whole of the first morning upstairs, drinking in the gorgeous Canadian Rockies and sipping the included coffee. It was the perfect place to spot Mount Robson, the highest peak in the Rockies. The mist lifted and the sky cleared at exactly the right time. We were lucky.

    From the Rockies to the flat prairies of Manitoba and the lakes of Ontario, each region unveiled a new facet of the Canadian landscape and these cars are the best place to let it all roll by.

    Skyline Cars (Downstairs)

    Downstairs in the Skyline Car was the activities room and a little lounge. This is a handy place to charge your phone or other devices, or indulge is a more traditional form of entertainment. There is a stack of board games and jigsaw puzzles for everyone to use. It was great fun passing through every so often and seeing the progress someone was making on a puzzle. Other activities on offer were:

    • Wine Tasting – We did two during our trip. The first was a straightforward tasting with some info about Canada’s different wine regions. The next was more of a game where we had to pair the wines blindly to their descriptions, which was great fun…even if we were rather bad at it.
    • Beer Tasting – If you know us, you know beer isn’t our thing so we skipped this one.
    • Talks – With each new province, the train activities co-ordinator would give a short talk about the region. It was really nice to have some context for those gorgeous views.
    • Bingo – Have you ever played bingo with cards before? Turns out, it is such a lot of fun…if highly competitive. I won a postcard of the Canadian when I got my winning board.
    • Films – They have a small TV in the room where they sometimes do film night, or show documentaries. Obviously, being blind, this wasn’t great for me but actually, I didn’t feel the absense of telly for a few days.
    The Park Car

    Right at the back of the train (the caboose) is the Park Car. This also has a dome roof but it is of a slightly higher calibre. It is attached to some of the Prestige cabins so this is where those passengers tend to hang out. In fact, on a busy train, regular sleeper car passengers have to wait until later in the day to join them. Being a little off-season, we had full access aside from the first six rows of the viewing car, which were reserved. Down in the lounge are some lovely, comfortable seats, perfect for enjoying a drink and chatting with others sitting opposite. I think the 1950s styling in here is especially obvious and I adored it. Note the drink holders in the tables, a nod to the most popular activity in this car. A couple of steps down from the lounge is the onboard bar. Drinks are included for Prestige folks, but we paid as we went. Sometimes the card machines here didn’t get signal. It was a heart-stopping five minutes watching our drink, already poured, just out of reach as we hoped the signal would return.

    The Dining Car

    At busier times, there can be two dining cars on the train (A & B), but on our journey, there was just the one. They say that B must be fancier if you do have two, as this is where the Prestige passengers dine, but we cannot confirm or deny.

    Dining on the VIA Rail Canadian

    If there is one thing you cannot fault, it is the food. Every meal was served with care, cooked to perfection and delicious. You are going to be fed well on the Canadian.

    Breakfast

    I’m not a big breakfast person, but on the Canadian, I couldn’t resist. The hash browns that came with many of the breakfasts were thinly sliced potatoes, fried to crispy perfection. Happily for me, there was no onion in it, so I could stuff myself full of it. A common theme of the menus onboard the VIA Rail Canadian is that they come and go. This is even true with breakfast. You will find the Transcontinental every day, but everything else will change. I think the options with eggs (the Transcontinental and omelettes) were the best as they seemed super fresh and didn’t fill you up with carbs when lunch was only a few hours away.

    For those who don’t want a formal breakfast, or are up too early, there is a continental breakfast available to grab in the Skyline/activities car. This includes muffins, pastries, jams, fruits, juices and hot drinks. On our first morning, jet lag and excitement to spot Mount Robson had me up before the sun. I grabbed some coffee in my thermos and a muffin to take with me up the stairs to the dome seats.

    Lunch & Dinner

    If you were thinking of having a light lunch, think again. At both lunch and dinner, you are going to get a multicourse feast. The meals celebrate local ingredients from across Canada served in both traditionally Canadian dishes and some fun ones from further afield. Yes, there’s beef from Alberta, and it is delicious.

    At lunch, you can choose from a soup or fruit juice to start, then there is a main meal (or entree) and a light dessert….(Is light dessert an oxymoron?) Similarly, dinner begins with either a soup or salad. The salads were all interesting and delicious so we tended to opt for those. Then we could choose from four different main courses. I was very impressed with the selection and the quality of cookery. The galley is tiny, and it is astonishing that the chefs produce such great food. Perfectly pink meat, tasty sauces and veggies that still have a little bite, this isn’t canteen food. We have had the same standard on some other luxury trains around the world, and I feel like the food on The Canadian is underrated.

    A word of warning, at dinner, you need to leave room for dessert. The cakes are large, rich and utterly impossible to resist. The carrot cake cheesecake was served twice, and I couldn’t finish it on either occasion, which I am still kicking myself about. It was spiced and sweet with just the right level of sour from the cream cheese….I am genuinely sad I don’t have someone coming to serve me a slice tonight. The chocolate cake was the last cake I had, and it was truly decadent. Seriously, if you are taking the VIA Rail Canadian, do not skip your sweet course!

    Drinks

    As mentioned, there is a bar in the Park Car. The prices really aren’t bad, especially considering you are a captive audience. We had a couple of simple mixed drinks during one evening and a glass of Canadian ice wine during a chilled-out afternoon.

    You can order drinks from the dinner table, and so we discovered, there is no bar service in the Park car during dinner times. We stood at the bar for slightly too long before we figured that out. If you want a drink at dinner, wait until you are seated, and they will take your order at the table. There are wines and beers from Canada and further afield, and enough spirits/liquor to satisfy most palates.

    You can also have in-room drinks. Just bring your favourite beverage and you can enjoy it in the cabin. We bought a couple of sodas/pops/fizzy drinks and chucked in a shot or two of rum before dinner. It was rather pleasant as a pre-dinner tipple.

    The Staff

    A quick word on the staff aboard VIA Rail Canadian. They were all a perfect mix of no nonsense and fantastically fun. I am not sure how they have struck this balance, but they have nailed it. Sadly, I am terrible with names (and far too blind to read name badges) but let’s be real, I am sure that even the staff we didn’t have the pleasure of meeting were just as nice, so I am comfortable making such sweeping generalisations. They must have had something special, as I felt the distinct teacher’s pet urge to please and be liked by all of them.

    The Stops

    Jasper

    Our first longer stop was in the famous town of Jasper. This is really popular with tourists all year round thanks to its proximity to gorgeous lakes and mountains, and its homely charm. Just looking around, the snow-capped Rockies gave every angle a gorgeous background. There was a huge fire in Jasper in 2024, but signs throughout the town celebrate the community coming together to rebuild. We had 45 minutes to explore and mostly sent it popping in and out of food spots. You wouldn’t think we were eating up to 9 courses a day in the dining coach. We grabbed a Bear Paw (a cinnamon pastry) and a Beaver Tail, a deep-fried pastry topped in our case, with apple and yet more cinnamon.

    Winnipeg

    We broke our journey in Winnipeg, the logic being that Winnipeg is a lesser-visited destination and less accessible to us in the future. We might pop back to Jasper as part of a Canadian lakes type trip, but Winnipeg is pretty far from….everything. Honestly, most people were just confused when we said we wanted three days in the city but it was great fun and definitely worth checking out. During our three day stop (between our train arriving and the next one) we:

    • Ate in some wonderful restaurants, including Gather Craft Kitchen & Bar, James Avenue Pumphouse, Tabula Rasa and Clementine. Seriously, who knew there was a great food scene there?
    • Tried amazing cocktails at Darling Bar, Sous Sol, Solera and the iconic railway hotel, The Fort Garry.
    • Got thoroughly absorbed in the Canadian Museum for Human Rights.
    • Explored a snowy wilderness and played on a toboggan onto a frozen lake at Fort Whyte Alive,
    • Saw how coins are made for Canada and many other countries in their Royal Mint.
    • Took a trip to a Scandinavian-style spa called Thermea. Dashing between hot pools and saunas in below-freezing temps was such fun.
    • Explored The Leaf, a botanical garden that was the perfect spot to warm up.
    Fresh Air

    Along the route, the train had some stops which were between 10-20 minutes. We were given some notice to get laid up and then the staff popped out extra stairs so we could all disembark. We did laps of the platforms to get our steps in, and the smokers amongst the travellers could have a quick smoke break too. It was good to have some walking time in a space that was wide and not swaying and we tried to make the most of it every time.

    Arriving into Union Station

    We woke up on our final morning into a landscape full of frozen water. Ontario is a huge province and it is defined by its water. Pools, lakes, streams and other watery ways are dotted throughout. With an almost total covering of snow, we could just see some melt in smaller ponds as the March weather rose just above freezing. We watched white land fill with dwellings, roads and other urban delights until we were fully in the outskirts of Toronto. Then, we turned a corner and right in front of us was the iconic CN Tower, the most recognisable spot in Toronto. Somehow, despite having been five hours behind schedule when we went to bed on the last night, we actually arrived two hours early. We spilled into the large, echoing main hall of Union Station and decided that, with the extra time, we should grab a drink. Much like the Fort Garry in Winnipeg, the Royal York sits opposite the matching station. It is now a Fairmont so the drinks are rather more pricy than the Fort Garry, but ending our journey with an amazing bevvie felt appropriate. The backpacks we were carrying and the scruffy hair we had did not…but hey ho.

    After five days, five provinces, two trains, and one unforgettable experience, our epic transcontinental rail adventure came to an end in the heart of Toronto.

    Final Thoughts on Our VIA Rail Canadian from Vancouver to Toronto Review

    Travelling across Canada aboard the VIA Rail Canadian truly put the scale of Canada into perspective. Splitting the journey in Winnipeg added a chance to get our land legs back and to explore a lesser-known city, but I would have loved the journey even if we had done it all as one. We were genuinely surprised by how comfortable, social, and charming the whole experience was. Yes, there were delays, but they somehow felt like a novel part of the journey. Knowing that we were in for a slow pace helped us relax and just enjoy the views.

    For anyone looking for gentle adventure, with an appreciation for slow travel, and who loves retro charm, The Canadian is an experience not to be missed. We would love to head back to Canada one day and finish our journey up the east coast. After taking the commuter trains, we would hop on The Ocean and end up in Halifax…but that’s an adventure for another time.

    Rosie xx

  • 40 VIA Rail Canadian Tips – The Iconic Train Across Canada

    40 VIA Rail Canadian Tips – The Iconic Train Across Canada

    Taking VIA Rail’s Canadian from coast to coast is a true travel adventure, and should be on everybody’s bucket list. Mind you, the thought of travelling across Canada over four nights of train travel could seem a little daunting. That is why we have put together our VIA Rail Canadian tips to make your journey smoother and more enjoyable.

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    Tips for Planning

    1.) Decide When to Travel on the Canadian

    • As a rule, summer is the busiest time to take The Canadian. You’ll find longer trains, higher prices and views full of glistening lakes, yellow prairies and blazing sunshine. Stepping out for your fresh air breaks is a pleasure, with the suns rays toasting you nicely. It is also the best time for spotting wildlife as everything is awake.
    • Autumn/fall offers the chance to see the beautiful changing of the leaves. The crowd dwindles and prices fall.
    • Winter is the cheapest time to take the train. You’ll find longer will stay warm as you watch the snowy vistas roll by. Fresh air breaks are brisk!
    • Spring is short in much of Canada but if you catch it just right, the cherry blossoms will wave you off in one city and hello in the other. Wildlife starts to wake up and emerge and the ice melt gives everything a lush green.

    2.) Choose Which Direction to Travel on the Canadian

    Train 1 – Toronto to Vancouver Wed & Sun

    If you are coming from Europe or somewhere else that lies east of Canada, doing it this way round will lessen your jetlag woes by reducing the time zone difference on the the first couple of days..

    Train 2 -Vancouver to Toronto Mon & Fri

    For the best views of Mount Robson, opt to travel from Vancouver. Typically, the train will approach Jasper sometime on the first morning. Admittedly, because this is many peoples highlight, it does mean the views afterwards could be a letdown..

    3.) Weigh Up Which Accommodation to Book on the Canadian

    There are five options to choose from aboard The Canadian:

    • Economy – Seated accommodation with no food included
    • Berths – Seats in an open carriage that covert into bunk beds. Food and soft drinks included.
    • Single Sleeper – Single bed private rooms with toilet and sink. Food and soft drinks included.
    • Double Sleeper – Bunk bed private rooms with toilet and sink. Food and soft drinks included.
    • Prestige – Double bed private rooms with private bathroom including shoer. All food and drink included. Lots of included extras.

    When considering which to choose you need to consider your budget, desired level of comfort and privacy requirements.

    4.) True Budget – A Few Economy Tips

    Economy on the Canadian consists of two seats on ither side of the aisle. they do recline by 40 degrees, and there is very good legroom but you are not able to lie flat. You will find power at each seat for charging devices and a fold down table for meals, laptops etc etc

    Economy Class doesn’t come with any food included but there is a full menu to order from and of course, you can bring food and drink with you. That only applies to soft drinks however, as you cannot drink your own alccohol on board.

    All bathroom facilities are shared but they are kept in great condition. Economy also has its own Skyline Car with a lounge and domed glass roof sp you are not stuck in the same seat the whole time.

    Most of the tips included in the rest of this article are for those in Sleeper Class plus as we have never travelled in economy and honestly, unless you are just doing a shorter day time trip, we don’t think four nights in economy is the best plan.

    5.) The Cheapest Bed – A Few Berth Tips

    The berths are the cheapest option in Sleeper Plus. By day, the seats are in sets of two, facing each other. They are nice and wide, sitting either side of the windows but it is worth remembering that they are in an open corridor. If you know your berth companion then you can spread out and relax but facing a stranger for five days might be a little awkward. Mind you, I suppose they wouldn’t stay a stranger for long! By night, the bottom bunk is converted into a bed, and a second bed pulls down from the ceiling. There are thick curtains that fasten with magnets to keep them private. if you are travelling solo and are concerned about safety then spend the extra for a Cabin for One for peace of mind.

    When booking, remember that the top bunks are cheaper as you have to climb up there and there is no window. If you are looking for the very cheapest way book Sleeper Plus Class, book early for opposite ones and you’ll have seats across the aisle in the day. On the flip side, bear in mind that the lower berths are actually the second biggest beds after Prestige. If you need a lot of room, these will give you more room that the Cabin for one beds.

    In a berth, you are going to be sharing a communal bathroom for both the shower facilities and the toilet. You are also going to sharing electrical outlets and these are not near the Berths. Instead, they are in the activity car so heavy device usage is not reommended if you are sitting in here.

    6.) The Perfect Balance – A Few Sleeper Class Tips

    We think that is definitely worth choosing Sleeper Class Plus if your budget allows. The extra splurge gives you a lovely level of privacy as well as:

    • Access to a lounge before embarking in Toronto or Vancouver.
    • Access to little snacks throughout the day in the activity car.
    • Priority boarding after Prestige Class.
    • Three delicious multicourse meals a day.
    Cabin for One

    The Cabin for one (Roomette) is a dinky room that is not much bigger than your single bed. In the day, you have a seat and then the Murphy bed is brought down from the wall. You get a nice big window so it is rather lovely to be in bed, lying alongside the view. You get your own sink and toilet but do bear in mind that the bed covers the toilet when it is lowered.

    Cabin for Two

    During the day, you have two folding chairs (which can be moved). Then, at night, one Murphy bed is brought down from the wall, and the top bunk bed comes down from the ceiling. These lie perpendicular to the window. You have a sink in the room and a small toilet behind a door. When booking a room, remember:

    • Rooms B D F face forwards.
    • Rooms A C E face backwards.
    • Room F is a little bigger. These sell out first.

    Call reservations and ask for a specific room if you have a strong preference.

    7.) Splashing Out – Prestige Sleeper Tips

    If budget is no problem, or you are celebrating something big, than get yourself a Prestige Class room. As with the rest of the cabins, you have a private room, food and soft drinks, priority boarding and snacks all day. However your room will be decked out in slightly fancier decor and it is 50% bigger than the Sleeper Cabin for Two. You also have a private bathroom but here, it includes a shower! By day you have a sectional couch/sofa which wraps in a L by the window. By night a large double bed descends from the ceiling, allowing you to snuggle with your travel buddy in comfort or starfish to your heart’s content. You also have a TV with plenty of pre-loaded films and a cooler cabinet that can be stocked with your preference of drinks in the room.

    In Prestige Class, you are provided with some fun extras:

    • All of your alcoholic beverages.
    • Reserved seating in front rows of the Park Car.
    • Exclusive access to the Park Car for the first part of the journey on busy journeys.
    • Concierge service.
    • Priority seating for dining, allowing you to choose your seating time first.

    8.) To Stop or Not to Stop

    A perfect journey on The Canadian takes five days, four nights or around 100 hour. You might want to do the whole adventure as one long trip, going from end to end and taking the entire time to relax. Alternatively, you are able to stop off and stay in one of the towns it visits, catching the next train, three or four days later. If seeing Canada is your aim, then a stop is worthwhile but if you are here just for the train, maybe not. The two most popular stops are Jasper and Winnipeg.

    • Jasper – A picture-perfect mountain town, Jasper is surrounded by peaks and pretty lakes. it is great for hiking in summer or snowy activities in winter.
    • Winnipeg – A big city that lies at the heart of Canada. With an up-and-coming culinary scene, some marvellous museums like the Human Rights Museum and nearby nature, it’s an underrated gem.

    Once you have decided when you want to travel on the Canadian, which way you want to go and in which class, it is time to book.

    Tips for Booking

    9.) Book Early

    Get thee to the VIA Rail website ASAP to start your booking journey. If you have specific dates, or want to travel in the busier summer months then a year to 11 months in advance is advisable. Get it booked and worry about securing your annual leave afterwards.

    10.) Bag a Discount

    To save a few pennies, look at booking off season. Prices plummet in winter so you can bag a real bargain. No matter when you are planning to travel, make sure you sign up for the VIA Rail newsletter. Every Tuesday, they offer discount,s and you don’t want to miss out.

    If you are able to wait, VIA Rail has had some incredible Black Friday discounts in the past. Of course., we can never guarantee this will remain the case but if it isn’t too far off for you, then it might be worth the gamble.

    11.) Keep an Eye on The Discount

    Once you have booked, don’t leave it there. You always try to call and rebook if good discount pops up (Black Friday for example), we have heard of at least one couple doing this. Just be sure to physically rather doing it online to ensure you don’t lose your cabin or berths.

    12.) Join the Loyalty Program

    The VIA Preference Program is free to join and so you might as well. You are going to get a crazy amount of points travelling all the way across the country and you never know when you’ll be back in Canada to use them. This is especially useful if you actually live in Canada.

    Tips for Packing

    13.) Know the Baggage Rules

    There isn’t an awful lot of room to store bags in the cabins and even less in the berths and economy carriages. You will have to check any bigger bags at your point of origin and they won’t be returned to you until you disembark. Checked bags are free. Bring a hand luggage sized bag with all your essentials to have on board.

    14.) What to Pack for the Canadian

    • A multiplug and extension cord – There are only two plugs in the private rooms and they are by the sink. There are no plugs in the berths or economy, you will need to use the outlets in the Park Car or Skyline Car, having a multiplug that you can share with fellow passengers will make you many friends.
    • A power bank – If you don’t have plugs in your sleeping area, this is a must-have. You might also want it when you are up in domes, draining batteries, filming all of the beautiful landscapes.
    • Shoes for the bathroom – If you are using the communal bathrooms (toilets and showers) you might want waterproof shoes that are easy to rinse off, or even to wear into the shower itself. KI use jellies and Mr Fluskey uses flip-flops. It is also nice to use these to slip on quickly for dinner etc. Hefting winter boots on and off is a real pain.
    • Air freshener – A little something to hang or prop in your private toilet keeps everything just a little fresher and more pleasant as they don’t have a window.
    • Outdoor clothes – in winter, you will need warmer layers for the “fresh air stops”. Plus, the dome cars can be quite cold due to the glass over your head. It helps to have a hat and scarf.
    • Sun gear – On the flipside, in summer, the sun blazes through the dome car roof so a sun hat and sunglasses will make it much more comfortable. Don’t forget the sun cream too.
    • Hot water bottle – I took a mini version to have with me in the dome car and at night. You can fill it at the coffee stations.
    • A refillable cup or flask – Free tea and coffee are available in sleeper class and it is always a good plan to use a refillable cup to prevent unnecessary waste. You will also be able yto keep coffee warm for use on the train and on chilly platforms.
    • Binoculars – If you are travelling at the right time of year, you might want to try and do some wildife spotting.
    • Headphones – Podcasts, music and audiobooks really help to pass the time with a little entertainment. You may also want to use headphones to block out the rail noise at night.
    • Cash – Don’t forget to bring some actual money if you are planning to tip the staff onboard. You will also find that paying by card on the PDQ machines can be a little temperamental in remote areas. It would be a shame to have a drin poured for you that you can’t have!
    • Bedding – This is only relevant if you are in Economy Class. In all of the Sleeper Class options will have bedding provided. If you want a cover, sleeping bag or pillow in economy, you need to bring it with you.

    15.) What VIA Rail Will Provide

    In Prestige and Sleeper Class, you will be provided with:

    • Earplugs.
    • Hand soap.
    • A towel.
    • A face cloth/flannel,
    • Shampoo and soap.

    This means that you don’t have to pack any of these but if you have really good ear plugs or you love a specific shampoo and conditioner combo, then squeeze them in.

    Tips for Getting On Board

    16.) Ace Your Departure Day

    Try to arrive at least 90 minutes before your train. When you get to the station, you will be directed to three desks. The first is the luggage drop. You just need to show your tickets, and they will tag up your bags to your destination before whisking them away to the baggage car. Arrive with your bags ready to go to prevent the repacking on the station floor debacle. Second is the check-in desk, where they will scan your tickets and may also check your government-issued ID, so have both handy. The final desk is where you will choose dining time for the first day. Arriving earlier gives you a better choice of dining times.

    You can then head into the lounge if you are in Prestige or Sleeper class. Bear in mind that there is not a full buffet or anything in the lounge. Instead, you will just find some biscuits, but tea, coffee, hot chocolate and water are provided. Toronto is all inside, but the majority of the seating at Union Pacific in Vancouver is outside, so a jacket and a hot chocolate are both nice to have.

    17.) Boarding

    After the iconic “All Aboard” has sounded, it is time to join the train. Friendly staff will point you to the correct car if you get confused. The platform is long but there is a buggy for those with reduced mobility. You will be directed to your spot on board and then the lovely attendants will come and introduce themselves, explaining the particular quirks of your sleeping area.

    Once you’re settled in, head for a dome carriage for the “Roll Away Party” where champagne/sparkling wine and nibbles/hors d’oeuvres are served. If it is a summer or busy then, stick to the Skyline car, but if you are travelling in off-season, go all the way to the back for the Park Car. You will get a lovely view as you view and share the experience with the fancy Prestige guests who get a nice talk along the way. We found that asking for a second drink garnered one, so don’t be afraid to enquire. We also had a wine reception leaving Jasper that they allowed us a sip at as well so it isn’t just for the terminus stations.

    Tips for Onboard Life on the VIA Rail Canadian

    18.) Find Your Train Legs

    The bumping, swerving and rolling of the train carriages can make walking a little tricky. It can take some getting used to so don’t rush. Take your time when walking through the carriages and keep one hand running along the wall in case of a sudden jolt. Remember, even the professionals struggle sometimes.

    19.) Make Use of the Different Carriages

    Take time to explore the train (it’s the only walking you’re going to do onboard).

    • Sleeping Accommodations – In most carriages, you will find a few sleeper cabins for one, followed by sleeper cabins for two and finally three sets of berths.
    • Park Car – If you are in Prestige, this is yours all day, every day. If you are in Sleeper Class, travelling in peak season, you are going to have access to it after 4pm. During off-season, it’ll be most of the time but do check the signage and follow the instructions. You will find the bar here and at the very back, a gorgeous V-shaped lounge. Upstairs is a dome section with plusher seats than the Skyline car.
    • Skyline Cars – This is where you will find the domes. Upstairs, sit at the back for views both ways or sit at the front for panoramic views. Downstairs is a small lounge with tables and plugs. There are separate Skyline cars for economy passengers. Then, further along the carriage is the activities area with the snacks for Sleeper Class passengers.
    • Dining Car – A carriage lined with tables that turns into a hive of activity at every meal time.

    20.) Enjoy Disconnecting

    As the train trundles through five large Canadian provinces, you will find that your phone signal will dwindle and disappear. This is one of the reasons they don’t have any wifi onboard. In theory, the business lounge has wifi, but it didn’t work when we visited. Don’t stress about it and enjoy the chance to actually disconnect from the digital world. Read a book, appreciate the scenery and relish using your phone for photography purposes only.

    21.) Join In With the Activities

    You might not have the internet, but that doesn’t mean there is nothing to do. During the trip, remember to check the whiteboard for activities as they do put on a few. We saw:

    • Wine tasting – Extra booze? You know we joined in. We tried two different kinds of tasting and that covered six different types of wine.
    • Beer tasting – Even the fact that the beer was free didn’t tempt us into the tasting.
    • Board games – Jigsaws and board games aplenty are on offer all day. It is cool to pass through every so often and check on other people’s progress as well as grabbing something to play with yourself.
    • Talks – Train staff give some lovely little talks with some fun facts about each new province that you cross into.
    • Trivia – We missed this entirely but heard it was a good laugh.
    • Film night – The people onboard got to vote for which film to screen and Shrek won (despite my attempt to swing it the other way).
    • Bingo – We played with a reusable board and cards, which was an unusual set-up but really fun

    22.) Take in the Views

    Obviously, you get great views from the dome cars, but don’t forget, you can also get a lovely view from your room. During the day, keep the door open, it’ll let in lots of light and double the views as you’ll be able to see the window across the corridor too.

    23.) Protect your Valuables

    The private rooms have locks, BUT you are unable to lock door behind you when you leave. They only lock from the inside. If you are worried about your belongings, then you have two options. You could bring a day bag for moving around the train in which you can keep your valuables. Alternatively, you can padlock a locked bag to something in the room. There is no door on the berths so you can’t lock anything up at any point.

    24.) Reduce Your Room Noise

    Trust me on this. Close your sink cover and put the plug down in the sink to make it quieter. Even better, pop a towel over the top as well. You’d be amazed at how much noise comes up from the rails through that pipe.

    25.) Tipping the Crew

    Tipping is entirely optional when you travel on the VIA Rail Canadian but it seems that most people do leave a tip in some form for the dining room staff and the room attendants.

    In the dining carriage, some people leave a smaller tip at the end of each meal, whereas some people tip twice along the way. The crew changes in Winnipeg so it’s once before Winnipeg and once at the end of the journey (assuming you are going all the way through).

    In terms of room attendants, we did see a recommendation that $5 per day is ok, but we went with $10 a day as they went above and beyond for us.

    26.) Keep an Eye on the Sky

    The great expanse of the prairies can produce some incredible sunsets. Sadly, our days were a bit grey but you just never know, so don’t forget to keep track of when sunset is due.

    After dark, head to the Skyline Dome and if nobody else is around, you can ask for the lights to be turned down for a bit of stargazing. Mind you, we did some lovely stargazing just lying in bed so anywhere with a window will do.

    27.) Expect Delays

    VIA Rail owns the train that you are travelling on, but they do not own the rails in runs upon. As such, they need to give way to the mighty freight trains that haul goods across the country. The train will stop often to let an astronomically long freighter pass, stacked two shipping containers high. There is no point fretting about this. Sometimes they make the time up, sometimes they don’t, but either way, you’ll get there eventually.

    28.) Check the Time

    As you traverse the width of Canada, you are going to pass through four different time zones. The train manager will announce the new time over the tannoy so make sure you listen out for the announcements. Oddly, Saskatchewan doesn’t use daylight saving time so don’t let that one catch you out in the summer months.

    29.) Get the Best Views of Mount Robson

    There are plenty of beautiful views along the way as you travel onboard the VIA Rail Canadian but most people agree that spotting the mighty Mount Robson is a highlight. This is the tallest mountain in the Canadian Rockies at 3,954 m above sea level. For the best views up in the dome car grab a seat early, and in the right spot.

    • Train 1 (Heading West) – Sit on the right after Jasper
    • Train 2 (Heading East) – Sit on the left before Jasper

    Tips for Dining and Drinking

    30.) Make Friends

    Dinner and lunch are both served in two or three sittings and as the tables are for four people, it is most likely you will be sharing with strangers. The staff seat couples sitting beside each other and facing the newbies. Take this chance to have a chat and turn those strangers into friends. It will be an awfully awkward meal otherwise..Have you ever tried to ignore someone sitting right in front of you?

    31.) Dinner Seating

    As mentioned, seating is done so that couples sit next to each other. This ensures that one person in each couple has a window seat.

    If you get travel sick, arrive a minute or two early and ask to sit facing forwards in the dining car.

    When the train is at its busiest, there will be two dining cars attached. Rumour has it, dining car B might be better as the Prestige passengers use it but we cannot confirm or deny this as we only had one.

    32.) The Menu

    The whole menu for lunch and dinner changes every day so if you want to try something, grab it when you see it. It might not be back! Breakfast has some of the same dishes, like the delicious Transcontinental breakfast but other options do change day to day.

    33.) Dinner Times

    Some people like to dine in the daylight whilst others to stay in the dome cars until it gets dark and then enjoy dinner. Consider your preferred dining time but do remember that Prestige passengers get priority so you might not get your first choice.

    Lunch and dinner are both multicourse meals, so you could consider dining later to ensure you have room for dessert.

    34.) Make Use of Your Included Drinks

    During dinner, your soft drinks (fizzy pop, soda) are included, but during the rest of the time it’s only tea, coffee and hot chocolate. If you have a Diet Coke addiction, make sure you get enough during those meals! You are welcome to bring your own cups to use with the hot drinks provided, so filling a thermos full of coffee to take up to the dome car is perfectly acceptable.

    35.) Don’t Skip Breakfast

    There are set times for lunch and dinner but not breakfast. You can pop in at any time during the breakfast hours and the staff will do a last call if you are having a lie-in. If jet lag has ruined you and you wake up way ahead of that time, there is a self-serve continental brekkie up for grabs (mostly muffins and fruit) put out for real early birds.

    36.) Enjoy Some Snacks

    There are lots of little snacks that are included in the sleeper and prestige classes. They can be found in the Skyline and Park cars so there isn’t any need to pack any snacks yourself. The Prestige rooms have a “cooling cupboard” but it’s not actually a fridge. Nobody else has a way to keep anything cool, so bear that in mind before you bring your favourite chilled snacks.

    37.) Time for a “Drink Drink”

    If you love an adult beverage, here are the ways you can enjoy them during the trip.

    • It feels naughty, but you are allowed to bring your own alcohol to drink in your cabin or berth. We bought some rum with us and purchased a couple of cans of pop onboard to mix with it for a pre-dinner beverage.
    • You can buy alcoholic beverages from the bar in the Park car for most of the day, but during dinner service, there might not be anyone here. Make sure you get your drinks sorted ahead of dinner. Alternatively, you can order drinks during dinner from your dining table. These will be added to a tab that you can pay at the end of your journey.
    • You could try to make friends with Prestige in hopes that they will share their alcohol inclusions…but that is probably easier said than done, and to be honest, the drinks are pretty good value so it isn’t really worth the hassle.
    • They may run a couple of wine or beer tastings during your journey. The pours are rather small but it is a nice way to get a cheeky extra drink whilst you learn about some cool local producers.

    Miscellaneous Tips

    38.) Don’t Make Plans for Your Arrival Day

    As I mentioned, delays are not only possible but common. The arrival time listed on your booking is more of a suggestion than anything. It would be a real shame to miss an onward connection or bucketlist attraction visit due to a late train. Best thing to do is to plan anything important for the following day and then have some fun extras in the back of your mind for if you arrive on time or early. We actually rolled into Toronto two hours early (having been five hours delayed the day before) and so we popped across the road to the gorgeous Fairmont Royal York to fill that extra time!

    39.) Fun Journeys to Add On

    If you are travelling on The Canadian, consider adding one of these journeys on to extend your trip

    • The Skeena – Rolling from Jasper to Prince Rupert, The Skeena takes visitors through the wilds of northern BC where the train is the only connection for many communities.
    • The Polar Bear Train – Although this is not its official name, it is widely known as such for the polar bear sighting opportunities at the end of the line in Churchill. This train carves a line two days north from Winnipeg to Churchill.
    • The Ocean – If you fancy another night on a train then hop on one of the many commuter trains from Toronto to Montreal and then climb onboard The Ocean. This trip is around 24 hours and travels up the coast from Mntreal to Halifax.
    • The Maple Leaf – Extending down to the south-east from Toronto, this two hour trip takes you down to iconic Niagara Falls.

    40.) Smoking/Vaping

    There is no smoking or vaping allowed onboard. You will have to make use of the “fresh air” time at station stops to indulge. Check with your room attendant to confirm where and when this is ok. If you are a heavy smoker or vaper, then bring some alternative options (nicotine gum, patches) if you don’t think you can make it. Breaking the rules can lead to fines or even prosecution.

    Final Thoughts on These VIA Rail Canadian Tips

    We hope you are as excited to take your train adventure as we were, and feel a little more prepared now too. Have the best time and if we missed any important VIA Rail Canadian tips, let us know!

    Rosie xx

  • 16 Rovos Rail Train Tips – Everything You Need to Know About Rovos Rail

    16 Rovos Rail Train Tips – Everything You Need to Know About Rovos Rail

    If you are off on the trip of a lifetime, catching the Rovos Rail train, you going to be full of questions. Alternatively, it could be your travel partner who hasn’t been involved in the booking whatsoever and has a million queries. To help out, we thought we would put together our own Rovos Rail FAQs as a quick reference guide for your amazing trip. Read on for our top Rovos Rail train tips.

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    Don’t miss our review of Rovos Rail from Pretoria to Victoria Falls

    1.) How Long Has Rovos Rail Been Running?

    I am sort of avoiding saying that Rovos Rail has been going for a long time as I am very slightly older than Rovos Rail. In 1989, Rohan Vos decided to turn his idea of a family caravan train into a business. He took his family and some friends (four of whom paid for the trip) down to the Eastern Transvaal. Things gained steam (pun intended) in the 1990s and now Rovos Rail is widely considered the most luxurious train in Africa with a few years behind it.

    Rohan Vos is still hands-on and gives passengers tours of the workshops.

    2.) Where Does Rovos Rail Go? – The Rovos Rail Routes

    There are numerous routes that Rovos Rail offers. You can do as little as two nights, and as many as fifteen. You can remain within South Africa, travelling to Durban or Cape Town from Pretoria These are the shortest and cheapest routes, also saving you the cost of visas as you aren’t crossing any borders. If this is your once-in-a-lifetime trip and you have saved hard to go on a short trip then these are your best bet.

    Other itineraries stretch across South Africa, up into Namibia and round into Zimbabwe.

    Rovos Rail also has a special golf trip, the Golf Safari itinerary. This is a nine-night route that stays within South Africa. You will get a chance to take game drives and practice your drives as the train travels to game parks and golf courses alike. There are cultural excursions too so there is a little something for everyone.

    Finally, there are the routes that travel up into Eastern Africa and one that crosses right from Dar Es Salaam on the east coast to Lobido on the west. These long journeys take a little over two weeks and are total bucket list journeys.

    We love train travel! Check out more of our adventures by rail here.

    3.) What Are the Rooms Like on Rovos Rail?

    There are three kinds of rooms on Rovos Rail’s classic trains. Each has its own bathroom with a toilet, basin and either a shower or bath. You will also find an aircon unit in each room and a little bar heater in each bathroom so whether it is toasty or chilly outside, you will be comfortable

    • The Pullman Suite – This is the smallest of the suites at 7m2. You can opt to have your suite made up at bunkbeds, as a side by side twin or as a double at night. The longer journeys only have the beds set as side by side couches by day that can be made up as twins or a double bed at night. This gives you less space in the day but a nice place where you can both nap.
    • The Deluxe Suite – The deluxe gives you some more floor space at 10m2. There is a lounge area with two chairs and a desk/minibar. During the trip, you can opt to have your beds made up as two singles or one rather huge double.
    • The Royal Suite – This is the biggest suite totalling 16m2. They can only squeeze two of these into a carriage whereas you’ll find five Pullmans or the Deluxe suites. In the centre of the suite is a lounge area with two wingback chairs. In addition to all that extra floor space, this is the suite with the bath. Now, I don’t know about you but I think that taking a bubble bath, with a glass of bubbly is always a good idea. Add to that the novelty of being on a train? Bliss! (There is a shower too if you need a speedier clean).

    4.) How Much Does Rovos Rail Cost? – Rovos Rail Prices

    Prices change yearly so we will direct you to the Rovos Rail website for the latest costs. However, I can say that the cheapest room on the cheapest route (two nights in a Pullman suite, Pretoria – Durban) costs, 34,000 ZAR (£1,450) per person, based on two sharing. The most expensive room on the most expensive route (fifteen nights in a Royal Suite, Cape Town to Dar es Salaam) is $25,950 (£21,400) per person based on two sharing. When considering your route bear in mind the distance travelled and the room class you wish to take.

    Here you can find the rates and dates for 2024/2025

    5.) What Should I Pack for Rovos Rail?

    Your Luggage

    There is no restriction on board the Rovos Rail trains but there are a couple of things to bear in mind:

    • They have excellent porters at every station and you won’t have to haul your own bags aboard but you will have to get it to the station in the first place so don’t make it crazy heavy.
    • There is plenty of luggage storage space (under the bed and up on the huge luggage shelf but you might struggle to get your bag away if it is particularly weirdly shaped and/or bulky.
    • There was enough room in the wardrobe for two of us, for four days but we don’t pack heavily and on any longer journeys you may need to access your luggage more regularly so you will want to make sure they are easy to handle.
    Things to Pack for Rovos Rail?

    Don’t forget these essentials:

    • South African or British plug adaptors – The suites come with two different kinds of plugs. You will find the three-round pin South African kind (used hardly anywhere else) and the three-rectangle British kind (also used in Zimbabwe).
    • Sunglasses – It might sound obvious but you are going to be off the train on exciting excursions which may be bright and sunny and may be dusty. It is good to have your sunnies to protect you from both.
    • Reading materials – Laptops and iPads are discouraged outside of your suites so if you would like to relax in the lounge or observation car, you will need something a little more on the analogue side.
    • Cash for tipping and visas – South Africa takes ZAr (South African Rand). The rest of the countries Rovos Rail travels to will take USD (US Dollars). Ensure your dollars are printed after 2001.
    • Ear plugs and eye mask – the train does carry er plugs but it is best to bing a kind you know works for you. Together with an eye mask, this is your best chance for a great night’s sleep.
    • Any fussy toiletries – If you have to have your favourite brand of shampoo then don’t forget it. Each room has a great amenity kit with shampoo, conditioner, body lotion, insect repellent and more…but not your preferred brands.
    • Medicines – The train does have first aid and basic medicines but bring anything that is prescription or you can’t be without. Plus, some extra in case of delays…a good plan every time you travel.
    • Your dinner finery – Dressing for dinner is formal so you will need to pack some dinner outfits…but we will talk more about that later.

    6.) How Much Should I Tip on Rovos Rail?

    Tipping is not mandatory but the staff work incredibly hard and we think it is only fair. If you do decide to tip, the suggested amount is ZAR 100 – 200 ($10 – $20) per person per night. No need to worry about the awkward handover, tips/gratuities can be popped in a specified envelope in your room and given in at the end of the journey. Give what you can and don’t be embarrassed if it is not that much. Some people do tip other staff during the trip but this is not expected. You may also want to tip the guides/game drivers during excursions too.

    7.) Is There a Rovos Rail Dress Code?

    The Rovos Rail dress code is at once a little strict and quite casual. When you are planning your outfits, here are some things to consider.

    • In the daytime, they request that you dress in smart casual attire. This for me means a collared shirt for gents and avoiding loungewear. However, this is entirely personal and we saw plenty of people in more casual styles than we were expecting.
    • Some of the routes offer a game drive or safari so it is worth bearing this in mind and brining some neutral tones (khaki, cream) for these excursions. It can be chilly in the mornings or evenings on these trips so bring a warmer layer that you can add or take off as required.
    • For dinner, the rules are stricter. Gentlemen are required to wear a jacket and tie and ladies are requested to wear a cocktail dress or a nice suit. Now, I love dressing up, this was half of the fun of planning the trip. The romance of train travel greatly increases when everyone looks elegant. If you only have hand luggage or just don’t own a whole bunch of suits, never fear. The same jacket with different accompanying shirts and/or ties will be fine. On our trip, a whole group of travellers had been told by their travel agent that the dress code was more casual for dinner so they didn’t go all out. They were not turned away from dinner
    • It is worth noting for people who like heels that the train does wobble and you may end up turning your ankle so stick to lower options to be on the safe side.
    • On longer trips, Rovos Rail hosts theme nights. If you are on these then check the itinerary as you may need gear for a 1920s night and/or an African night.

    Some outfit inspo:

    8.) What is the Food Like on Rovos Rail?

    All meals are served in the two dining cars. There is only one sitting so you can arrive a little late but less so at lunch or dinner. To chivvy yo to dinner and lunch, a lovely little gong is played throughout the length of the train.

    Breakfast

    (07:00-10:00) – This is the only meal you can arrive sporadically for. Whether you are an early rise that turns up right at 07:00 or the late morning lie-ins that run in at 09:45, you will get the same great service. There is a selection of cereals, granolas and fruits to grab. Every day the table gets a little basket wth a pastry, a muffin and some white and brown toast which is always great. Then you can pick from continental platters or cooked breakfast options. The salmon was particularly lovely and the omelette was a beast!

    Lunch

    (13:00) – Lunch is a four-course affair, served with wine pairings. It is a tiny bit lighter and more vegetarian than dinner but don’t get it twisted, it is still large and indulgent. If you get motion sick and have a game drive excursion, consider your intake. If you are a greedy girl like me, fill your boots!

    Afternoon Tea

    (16:30) – This is served on days when you don’t leave the train. It is available in the lounge car and the observation car too. You’ll find little cakes, tarts and some South African classic pastries like koek sisters too.

    Dinner

    (19:30) – This is the formal meal which is also four courses, all with a wine pairing. This is the heaviest meal of the day with tender cuts of meat and rich desserts. You may need to be rolled back to your suite after dinner…or to the observation car and its bar for a cocktail. The fare is a blend of South African and traditional fine French dining. It is amazing to see what they can produce in the tiny galley kitchens on board the train.

    It is possible to have meals in your room. We opted for breakfast in bed one day. However, it is worth bearing in mind that there isn’t much room on the table and it makes wine pairings obsolete. If you are planning to do this, make sure you specify what you want and how much of it you want. I accidentally ordered two of everything for our breakfast and it was a struggle to eat it all!

    You will also be fed at your point of origin, find biscuits in your room, snacks in the lounge cars and get given snacks on excursions so there is zero chance you will feel hungry at any point. It is pure foody joy.

    9.) Can Rovos Rail Cater to Dietary Requirements?

    When you book you’ll be asked for any dietary requirements. Ensuring you provide a detailed and timely response means the team has time to cater for you. If you leave it until you are on the train, you may be in trouble. They will try their best but choices will be fewer. Bear in mind that dietary restrictions due to religion cannot be catered for.

    10.) Are the Drinks Included on Rovos Rail?

    As mentioned, both lunch and dinner are four courses with wine pairings. Saying that, the last drink tends to be a liqueur or similar for a true digestif. These are not the only drinks you are entitled to. The train is all-inclusive. The only exception is if you want french champagne, which is an extra cost and needs to be booked in advance. The lovely collection of South African ines, including a few sparkling really makes this unnecessary though.

    When you board you will see a mini fridge in your room. It can be stocked with any drinks that they have on board so if you want a bottle of bubbly every day, it is yours. You can request any drink at dinner if you don’t fancy the wine pairings and between about 12:00 – 00:00 the bars are open in the lounges. One is a hidden pantry and the other, you can sit at and have a tipsy talk. Finally, you will probably get a nice rink during your excursions and on your return from said trips.

    On the last evening, we were surprised by a selection of cocktails on offer which you could pick off the bar like a fun boozy buffet.

    11.) Where is the Rovos Rail Station in Pretoria?

    All of Rovos Rail’s routes will start or end at their very own station in Pretoria. This is called Capital Park and is part station, part museum. It has bucket loads of colonial charm with white verandas and striped umbrellas. Rohan Vos will show guests around the worksheds and explain the fun and challenges or restoring the engines and carriages. You may get to see one of their gorgeously preserved steam engines which sadly they cannot run as the locomotives any more

    There is actually a museum within the grounds which is a delightfully eclectic collection of vintage items and transport memorabilia. Don’t forget to head out and have a look (they can pop you in a golf cart if you need one). You can take a glass of bubbly with you for the long journey.

    12.) How Do I Book Rovos Rail?

    All bookings are done directly through a form. This is isn’t the kind of train that you can book on an app in a second. Fill out the form and then send it off to their email and a representative will get back to you to let you know what is available. Don’t forget to tell them if you are celebrating because they love to make you feel super special.

    Long Journey Reservation Form

    Short Journey Reservation Form

    13.) Can I Smoke On Board Rovos Rail?

    Rovos Rail provides a smoking car, complete with a charming matchbox. This is located just before the bar and observation car at the back. Non-smokers can skip past it as it is a little closed-off lounge with a corridor that runs along the side. You cannot smoke in your room, the dining cars or in the open-air observation car. Make sure you indicate that you smoke on your booking form and they will place your room closer to the smoking car (isn’t that thoughtful!?)

    14.) Is There Internet on Rovos Rail?

    Rovos Rail strives to create an ambience of the golden age of travel. This is more about books and board games than scrolling on phones and tapping on keyboards. As such, they request that guests leave their electronics in their rooms, or at least don’t use them for anything other than photos in the common areas. They do not have WiFi on the train so there isn’t any chance to connect that way. We tried to get eSims for Zimbabwe (we wanted to stay on top of the social media on the go) but they barely picked u any signal the whole time. I am sure this wouldn’t be as bad on the South African routes but honestly, it’s not worth the stress. Just enjoy your digital detox. You’ll be able to connect at each end, most of the stations have WiFi and at most of the Namibian safari accommodations.

    Board games instead of Fortnite for…maybe a fortnight

    15.) What Happens if the Train is Delayed?

    Delays are semi-regular along most of the routes that Rovos Rail serves. Never fear, a certain amount of stoppage time is built into the itinerary. On most evenings the train manager will inform you how long the train will be parked overnight. This ice touch probably tells you how much sleep you’ll get (unless you are better at the sleeping thing than me). If there have been any bad delays during the day, they will just travel a little longer into the night. or leave a little earlier the next morning.

    The train administrative manager on board will connect with you to ensure they have your accurate transfer details for your arrival. If there is a delay they will contact the transfer provider and make sure they are there at the correct time.

    16.) Is There Laundry Available on Rovos Rail?

    You can have some laundry done on board but not your whole wardrobe. Honestly, unless you are just bringing hand luggage, you shouldn’t really need anything washed on the shorter journeys. If you are coming for a longer trip, think about how to reuse the items you have so they can be mixed, matched and washed minimally. There is no way to get dry cleaning done so be careful what evening wear you bring/get washed.

    As well as laundry, your host/hostess can have your clothes pressed for dinner and your shoes shined. There is no excuse to look shabby!

    A Few More Little Rovos Rail Train Tips:

    • Rovos Rail can try and advise you but finding out about entry requirements for the countries you will visit is up to you. Look up visa requirements and prices well in advance.
    • Rovos Rail is not accessible for those in wheelchairs due to the restrictive space on the train.
    • They can extend a train to accommodate more guests but it is unlikely they will pop on a whole extra carriage for just one extra room. It may say sold out despite the stretching capability of the train.
    • Children are allowed on board but they may limit the number and those that are booked are expected to be on best behaviour. Honestly, I am not sure children would enjoy the train that much.

    Final Thoughts for our Rovos Rail Train Tips

    The one thing missing from this post is just how lush travelling with Rovos Rail is. Once you are on board, you don’t need to worry about the logistics any more and can just settle in to the romance of train travel to the rattle of the rails. If you have any other questions, don’t hesitate to message us and we will try and answer it. If we have answered all of your queries then have the best time!

    Rosie xx

  • The Pros and Cons of Interrail and Eurail

    The Pros and Cons of Interrail and Eurail

    In May of 2023, we spent a month travelling around Europe with an Interrail pass. Mr Fluskey was there for some of it too but had to work a bit. We had Global Passes with unlimited travel days so their most flexible and wide ranging pass. After a month of travel, I have compiled a list of the pros and cons of Interrail and Eurail to help you decide if it is for you.

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    THE PROS

    The Possibilities

    Travel planning is exciting!

    Well, I think it is anyway. Scanning through your possible destinations are lousy, the joy of research and discovery. You may start with a plan to see all the big hitters, London, Paris, Berlin, etc, but instead find a list of gorgeous underrated spots that sparks your wanderlust. Perhaps you decide to take an Instagram Odyssey with photo shoots covering Venice and Prague. It could be that you find you would rather take the slow route, hopping off at local stations. You’ve never heard of just to see what’s there.

    How exciting is that?!

    Flexibility

    It is true that Interrail can sometimes be a little more expensive than booking a bunch of advance tickets we ahead of time. However, these nice cheap tickets are normally non-flexible and non-refundable, meaning your itinerary is fixed. however, you can change your mind at a moments notice when you hold an interim past. Just add a new journey to your app and off you go.

    There are two exceptions to this joyful, flexible travel:

    • Travel Days – You can only travel on your “travel days”. Many passes have a certain number of these included (5 days in 30 for example). Once your travel has begun on any given, that is your day used up. You cannot change it once travel has started. (More on this on the cons section).
    • Reservations – This one will only affect you if you’re planning to take popular routes or fast trains that need reservations. Changing your mind at the last minute could mean you can’t find a new seat and/or you will lose your reservation fee. (More on this on the cons section).

    It’s Better for the Environment

    Now, I cannot claim to be a sustainable travel addict. I work for an airline and we fly long haul on a semi regular basis. However, we don’t have a car and I am a big advocate for public transport so train travel is one of my favourite ways to travel. It is wonderful to know that, although you are covering hundreds of miles, you aren’t having a terrible impact on the environment. On my Interrail trip, I travelled almost 5000km and the Eurail app tells me I saved up to 90% CO2 on flying. I also popped it into a carbon calculator and it was a third of the same distance by car….which is nice.

    No Designated Drivers

    Now I don’t just mean after a night out. Travelling around Europe is exhausting. There is so much to see and do, meaning you will be out and about, walking all day and repeating that day after day. If you then add driving on to this, you will be knackered! A long train day means everyone can have a nice nap…plus, you can all have a drink whenever you fancy.

    A glass of Aperol Spritz and a champagne flute with a red bubbly drink in Dubrovnik, Croatia
    Cocktails, cocktails, cocktails!

    Leading on from that:

    I’m Blind

    Well, visually impaired. This means, if I want o travel independently, I cannot drive. Sitting on a train requires no vision on my behalf so it is a great way to travel! If there is any reason you cannot drive, then catching the train is a great option for you too.

    Extra Discounts

    The Interrail past comes with a few little discounts that you wouldn’t get just travelling by train independently. Sam Hostel’s work with Interrail to offer people discounts on their beds, some cable, cars and vernaculars in Switzerland will give you up to 25% off, and even better if you are staying in Interlaken, Switzerland, you can take lake cruises completely free. One of the most useful and widely used discounts is 10% of anything on get your guide.com, discovers day, tours, food, activities, theme, parks, like Disneyland, Paris, and bottomless and boat trips in Budapest that leave you a little more than tipsy.

    Trains vs Buses

    One thing Europe blacks is seriously luxury coaches. I am sure they exist on the odd route, but for the main part, coaches in Europe, white standard with not that much legroom and not that much for Kline on your seat. This is one of the many reasons we’ve ever trains. Here are three more:

    • You can easily hop up and use the bathroom. Sometimes you will have the bathrooms on a coach but they tend to be cramped and a bit mucky. Obviously train toilets aren’t ideal, but they are a little bigger, usually a little cleaner, and there is more than one.
    • Trains can go slowly, obviously, but there is something a little less depressing about being delayed in some pretty countryside than on a motorway. In general, we think the views from the train are prettier than those on the road.
    • In general, the ride is more comfortable. You are not stopping and starting like you are on the road, you can get up and stretch your legs whenever you like, you aren’t wearing a seatbelt, so you feel a little more relaxed, and if you have lots of seats and are exhausted, you can have a little snooze stretched out across the lot.

    Trains vs Planes

    Now, I work for an airline, and I do enjoy flying, but there is no doubt that some aspects of travel by train are much better than those in an aircraft.

    You don’t have to deal with airports. Turning up three hours early, carrying teeny weeny liquids to comply with the rules, queuing, queuing, queuing, it is all the preserve of the airport. (It is worth saying that the Eurostar can feel a bit like this at the terminals but it still isn’t as bad). Train stations are usually in European city centres so once you disembark, you are right there in the thick of it. Over multiple stops, this really saves you a lot of time. Plus, the views from a plane are nice but they can’t beat those at ground level for interest.

    view out of a plane window of the wing and Rome when landing

    The App

    Finding trains was so easy with the app. To find a journey, you pop in your origin and destination, date and time and it will bring up all the options. You can filter search results by “No Reservations” or “No Changes” etc. I really enjoyed playing around to see different choices. My last few days of travel weren’t confirmed until we were already on the road….or is that rails….and I spent a happy hour or two looking at all the different ways to get back to London. Where I could stop, how long the different ways would cost and how long they would take!

    THE CONS

    The App

    Yes, the app can be glitchy too. My pass kept timing out strangely, meaning I had to deactivate it every time an inspector came around. This could be a few times with trains that crossed borders and it was a bit stressful when it wasn’t cooperating.

    The Price

    Overall, if you are going on a big adventure then the Interrail is a great option. If you are looking at the one country, minimum travel day passes then I am not sure it is worth it.

    It is also worth checking where you want to use it. If you have a Global Pass but spend two weeks in Poland where train travel is really cheap, you probably aren’t getting value out of your pass. Whereas, it is a thousand percent worth it for travelling on Swiss trains.

    Booking Reservations

    You’ve bought your pass and then you are bombarded with a bunch of “Reservation Required” messages. This does remove a bit of the flexibility on your trip. You will find that during high season or public holidays, you will need to organise these reservations ahead of time as they will run out.

    Most reservations cannot be made in the app, rather you will have to go to the Eurail website or the individual train operators website. This is a bit annoying. It is time consuming.

    Now, trains can be delayed and this may mess up your onward reservations. If this is the case, when you reach your transfer station, hot foot it to the ticket office and they should change your reservation for free. It’s always good to be fast and get their ahead of the other people on your train so you can request a window/aisle/any free seat.

    Reservation Fees

    There are plenty of trains that require you to pay for a reservation fee on top of the ticket price. If you are taking lots of fast or long distance trains, you will rack up the costs very quickly. It is possible to avoid reservation fees in most places by taking slow locals trains with lots of changes. But this may not be possible if you don’t have a long time to travel. It is also not possible when travelling from the U.K. to the continent. The Eurostar always requires a reservation and this is around £30.m each way.

    In total, for fast trains through France, return Eurostar trains, Swiss reservations and a night train, I spent an extra £100 or so.

    Being on a Schedule

    Yes you can hop and off trains but realistically you are going to be travelling between big urban centres. There may only be one train a day that goes directly between those two places and so you are beholden to their schedule.

    Travel Day Drama

    This is not something we experienced personally as our pass had unlimited travel days. On many passes, you choose how many travel days you think you’ll need. You can only take journeys on these days. (Night trains will run into the next day but won’t use another day unless you change onto another train). Once you have commenced travel on one of these days, it will be used up no matter how plans change/fail. You can’t change your mind and reset so once you have set foot on your first train, you are committed! If for any reason, you have to travel on more days than you planned, you will just have to pay for the extra transport as there is no way to add days to the pass.

    Your Luggage

    Choosing independent travel rather as part of a tour means dealing with your own luggage 100% of the time. Running through a train station, lugging bags up and down stairs is a world away from getting them on and off your group’s coach.

    City Transport Costs

    The Interrail Pass doesn’t cover travel within cities in most places. You might get lucky if they have a mainline rail system that passes through. But buses, metros, trams etc will need to be covered as an extra cost. This is one of those quirks that can catch people out so at least you are forewarned.

    Final Thoughts on the Pros and Cons of Interrail

    We had a blast Interrailing in Europe and although I’ve listed some cons, the the pros really outweighed them. It was a wonderful adventure and having the app allowed us to travel with a sense of control and freedom. If you can afford to Interrail then I cannot recommend it highly enough as an excellent way to see Europe.

    Rosie xx

  • Interrailing Switzerland on a Budget – How to Save Money in Switzerland

    Interrailing Switzerland on a Budget – How to Save Money in Switzerland

    Interrailing in Europe is a rite of passage for travellers from across the world. The ticket can seem expensive but one country where it really pays off is Switzerland. You will save money when compared to booking individual trains for sure. However, there soon comes the realisation that you need to pay for everything else in Switzerland too. So, how do you save money on food in Switzerland? How do you save money on accommodation in Switzerland? Is Interrailing Switzerland on a budget even possible? We share all this and more!

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    A Few General Tips

    Always Pay in Local Currency

    This is for card payments. If anyone asks if you would like to pay in your home currency, decline. The exchange rate when you do this is always terrible, with the business pocketing the difference. Pay in Swiss Francs and enjoy the better rate from your bank.

    Bring a Fee Free Card

    Get a card that allows you to use and to get money out in Switzerland with no additional charges. We love Revolut but this isn’t great for getting money out. There are plenty out there so do your homework before you travel. If at all possible, bring a selection of cards (Mastercard/Visa and debit/credit).

    Plan Ahead

    Yes, Interrailing does offer wonderful flexibility but if you are passing through expensive and/or popular spots in Switzerland then it is a good idea to book a few things in advance. Getting your accommodation sorted for the key points of the trip is a good start.

    Make Sure You Have Travel Insurance

    This is an initial financial outlay but trust us, you will be so grateful you have it if things go awry! You may have to pay out of pocket at the time but knowing they will be paying you back is so reassuring, especially in an expensive country like Switzerland. This is especially important if you are planning on doing any sports or adventure activities during your trip. We recommend EKTA for your insurance needs.

    Get a Local Sim or an e-sim

    Using your phone abroad can be expensive. If you are coming from outside the EU then Switzerland is no exception. Your phone provider probably charges a fair amount every day to use your phone in Europe. You have two better options. Either pick up a pay as you go local sim when you arrive. You will only really need data so look for the cheapest data-only sim you can. However, our preferred method is to get an e-sim. This can be done in advance (as long as your phone can use them) and activated on arrival. This saves the hassle of finding a phone shop and our favourite brand Airalo is great value.

    How to Save Money on Transport in Switzerland

    First Things First: Have An Interrail Ticket

    If you have your main residence in Europe, the Interrail allows you unlimited train travel in 33 countries. This includes Switzerland. If your main residence is outside Europe, you benefit from the same discounts and opportunities with the Eurail Pass.

    There are two main types of Interrail Passes:

    • The Global Pass – The Global Pass gives users the freedom to travel through all 33 countries included in the pass. The only exclusion is that only have one day to leave your home country and one to return. This is perfect if you have a long time to travel, want to see lots of different spots or want the flexibility to make a decision later on (even whilst travelling).
    • The One Country Pass – The Switzerland Country Pass only allows you to travel within Switzerland This is ideal if you have a shorter trip, or want to explore Switzerland in more depth. Bear in mind that there is no unlimited travel option so you need to pick how many travel days and the length of pass you require.

    If you haven’t already booked an Interrail ticket, use our link. It won’t cost you any extra but will help support the blog – BOOK NOW

    Once you have booked your ticket, you are free to use local and regional trains free of charge on the days you have chosen as your travel days. This makes travelling around the country so easy and cheap. We used it to hop around the lake in Montreux, chopping and changing as we found new adventures along the way.

    Hop on the Panoramic Trains

    OK, so technically this doesn’t actually save you money BUT you will be amazed at the trains that are included with the Interrail Pass. You can have some truly special train rides without forking out for the wildly pricy Goldenpass Express and its other luxury brothers and sisters.

    • The Belle Epoque – This runs between Montreux and Zweisimmen and has gorgeous 1930s style carriages, lined with wood and turquoise seats. It feels like something from an Agatha Christie novel and is included with the Interrail Pass. You could catch this one way, and hop on another train coming back again.
    • GoldenPass Panoramic – The other train that plies the Montreux to Zweisimmen route is the GoldenPass Panoramic. This has windows that extend to the roof, with a couple more on the roof for good measure. These give wonderful views up the mountainside and across the valley of the journey. Combine these two trains and you have a great day out for free! (Bear in mind that these can get booked up in peak season so it might be worth paying the small reservation fee to guarantee a window if you really want one).
    • The Bernina Express Line – Travelling on the actual Bernina Express will cost you a reservation fee, and it is a little steep. However, you can travel the same route (around the famous Brusio spiral viaduct) on local trains for nothing. Just ensure you have a Global Pass if you intend on travelling to Italy. If you only have the Swiss Country Pass, disembark in Campocologno.
    • The Glacier Express – OK, OK, so this isn’t cheap, even with an Interrail Pass BUT you are going to save money if you have one. To ride on this iconic train, you’ll just need to pay the reservation fee. The ticket price goes up dramatically the further you travel but the reservation doesn’t so you can travel from St Moritz to Zermatt for just 49CHF or just do the short trip from Brig for 39CHF.
    City Cards 1

    When checking into hotels in much of Switzerland, you will be given a city card or region card for the duration of your stay. This can give you access to local travel. This is a great addition to your Interrail ticket because that doesn’t include teams, buses etc. For example, if you’re staying in Bern, Lucerne, Basel, Geneva or Lausanne, you get to use local public transport for free.

    In Ticino, that’s Lugano and around, not only does it cover the local buses but gives you a discount on the cable cars, funiculars and boats in the region.

    Take Advantage of Free Bike Rental

    If you’re visiting Zurich, Bern, Geneva, Neuchâtel, Zug or Valais, then check out their free bike schemes. You can zip around town for free on pushbikes or e-bikes depending on your preference. Push bikes in Valais cost nothing for the first four hours so you could even take these for a scenic ride into the countryside. E-bikes and mountain bikes, however, start to charge after just one hour. The bike rental spots in Geneva, run by Genèveroule, require a cash deposit and an ID so make sure you have these to hand.

    Take a Hike

    One of the best ways to get around for free is to go on a big walk. Luckily, Switzerland is full of incredible hikes through stunning scenery. Use google or your hostel/hotel reception for advice on the best walks in the area you are staying in. To be honest, we didn’t do any hiking as it was unseasonably rainy, but we definitely plan to return and hit the hills!

    How to Save Money on Food in Switzerland

    Download Too Good to Go

    Too Good to Go is an app created to help reduce food waste, which is great, but it isn’t why e love it. For between 6 and 8 CHF, you can get enough food to fill up. The idea is that supermarkets, bakeries an restaurants send their. Fresh food either at the end of the day, or sometimes, at lunch. Launch the app and search for places around you that are offering food. Pay for it and go and pick it up at the allotted time. You can find baked goods, groceries that will end some proper cooing, things from the ready to eat fridges or even hot food from restaurants. In Switzerland, we had great big hot meals from the Migros hot counters and ready to eat cold food from Coop. Nothing cost us more than 7CHF, which is astonishing when the cheapest main meal we could find in the sit down restaurant was 16CHF.

    Cook Dinner for Yourself

    The cheapest way to eat in Switzerland is to cook for yourself. This does rely on you having a kitchen in your accommodation, and most hotels will have one. At our hostel in Interlaken, there were lots of Korean travellers that cooked up a multi course feast in the kitchen every night. It was very impressive. We managed to boil up lots of pasta that worked for dinner hot and lunch the next day cold. (Don’t forget your Tupperware…silicone folding if possible to save space). Look out for Migros and Co op. Buying a loaf of bread, a block of cheese and a big packet of crisps is going to be cheap, cheerful and can make a few sandwich lunches. Look for red stickers for discounted food with best before dates that day.

    For more Interrail packing ideas, check out our full Interrail packing list here.

    Opt For the Lunch Menu

    If you fancy eating out in a restaurant then make it a lunchtime treat. Many popular restaurants have a plat du jour (dish of the day) which will be much better value than their dinner offerings. You are still looking at 25 – 30 CHF but that could be half the price of dinner. It is also much cheaper to eat the vegetarian option. It can be a whole third cheaper.

    Scout Out Deals Near Universities

    If there is a university or college in the place you are visiting then there is likely to be a few good meal deals around the area. Take a stroll in the district and see if you can uncover any bargains. Restaurants that serve international food tend to be a little cheaper so keep your eyes peeled for Thai, Chinese and Italian options. If all else fails, find a place to fill up on chips.

    Enjoy the Free Tap Water

    Tap water is safe to drink, and delicious, throughout Switzerland so ask for a jug when you eat out. This saves you from having to swig from your water bottle in the middle of the dining room. In German, ask for “Leitungswasser., In French, it’s “une carafe d’eau”.

    You will also find free water fountains in plenty of Swiss towns, Zurich especially. You are safe to just fill up your water bottle for free drinks all day. We like to have squash drops to liven up the water on long days out.

    Service is Included

    Don’t forget that it is not mandatory to tip in Switzerland. On a large bill it is typical to round up a couple of Swiss Francs but the service charge is already built into the price of the food. TThis can feel uncomfortable when you are used to tipping 10-20% but it is totally fine to just pay the amount on the bill and leave.

    How to Save Money on Accommodation in Switzerland

    Visit in Shoulder Season

    Switzerland has two major tourist seasons, winter and summer. The low seasons, or shoulder seasons, fall in spring and autumn. If you visit outside of the high seasons then you have a better chance of finding cheap accommodation. Just bear in mind that some places shut for a month in April and October so if you have your heart set on a certain hotel, this might not be an option.

    Try Hostels

    Don’t let the word hostel scare you. Swiss hostels are clean and excellently run. Many have private rooms and are more like a hotel than you might imagine. As well as having good value rooms, you will also find laundry rooms that are cheap or free to use, games rooms for free entertainment and well equipped kitchens for preparing your own meals. Most also include some sort of breakfast too. Of course, if you are happy to share dorm rooms, you will save a bundle of cash! Just bear in mind that some dorm beds don’t include bed linen or towels so you’ll need to bring these yourself.

    We stayed in an excellent hostel in Interlaken, see the full review here.

    Find a Good AirBnB

    AirBnB has been the budget travellers’ friend for a few years now, and although hiring whole apartments or houses can still be very expensive, booking a room in someone’s house is still a great budget option. In towns like Zermatt, you can find rooms with postcard views for much less than nearby hotels but these still aren’t what we would call cheap.

    Hashtag Van Life

    Of course, if you are Interrailing Switzerland, you might just want to take the train, but if you have limited travel days you might consider getting a camper van.

    Transport and accommodation rolled into one, the camper van is another brilliant option. Many campsites are cheap to stay in and provide electrical hookups etc. for much less than a hotel room. Of course you need a driver’s license and the constitution to deal with your own toilet clearing but it does allow you to drive to some stunning places on your own schedule and take your bed with you. Do bear in mind that wild camping is illegal so you will need to park at a registered campsite.

    Stay Off the Beaten Track

    Staying in Zurich, Interlaken and Geneva is going to cost you more than in small nearby towns. The advantage of having your Interrail ticket is that you can reach these famous spots quickly and easily by train. You might not need to stay in these big cities at all. Accommodation in smaller towns is significantly cheaper so if you don’t mind the commute, you could save a fair whack.

    How to Save Money on Activities in Switzerland

    Interrail Freebies and Discounts

    Interrail doesn’t just cover your train journeys, it can also provide some other fun, free activities. For example, if you’re visiting Interlaken, your Interrail Pass provides free boat trips on both Lake Thun and Lake Brienz. You can take these two hour boats to some seriously beautiful spots which is a fun day out for nothing,

    You will also find a few discounts on funiculars or special trains across Switzerland like 25% off on the Jungfrau railway up to the Top of Europe.

    Guest Cards 2

    Some of the guest cards you receive from your accommodation (hotels and hostels) will offer more discounts on funiculars or cable cars in the region or local area. Interlaken’s includes a free walking tour, free or discounted entry to nearby museums and free entry to a local swimming pool and mini golf. Others across Switzerland have museum discounts (up to 50%), discounts on the numerous funiculars and cable cars that are everywhere in Switzerland and even the odd discount in a cafe so it’s worth checking them out for each area you are staying in.

    Free Walking Tours

    As with most of Europe, you can find decent walking tours in many of Switzerland’s main towns. Of course, these are not totally free as it is encouraged to tip the guides (they are guiding for tips) but compared to a paid tour, where you may also want to tip, they are decent value. Companies like Free Walking Tours Switzerland offer tours across the country.

    Final Thoughts on Interrailing Switzerland on a Budget

    Let’s be honest Interrailing Switzerland on a budget is hard work, and it can get a bit tedious. But if it allows you to travel for longer, it is definitely worth it. Unlike many countries, the beauty of Switzerland doesn’t lie in the big cities. So getting out into nature with a hunk of bread and some cheese really is the best way to spend your time.

    Rosie xx

  • Reaching the Top of Europe – Jungfraujoch with Best of Switzerland Tours

    Reaching the Top of Europe – Jungfraujoch with Best of Switzerland Tours

    When researching Switzerland, there is a huge bucket list of places to visit and things to do. When I learned about Jungfraujoch it leapt straight to the top of mine! Of course, on a train adventure, we had to visit the highest train station in Europe. We are happy independent travellers but sometimes, it is nice to have the extra layer of information, care and simplicity that a tour offers so we decided to travel as part of a group, with Best of Switzerland Tours. Join us as we go up, into the clouds to the Top of Europe, Jungfraujoch.

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    Best of Switzerland Tours

    When debating our options within Switzerland, we were taken with Best of Switzerland Tours. They have over 20 years of experience, have multilingual guides and offered just the itineraries I was thinking of. It was a no-brainer. For our Jungfraujoch tour, we had arranged to be picked up in Interlaken and then to travel all the way to Zürich with Best of Switzerland Tours that evening. This is always such a great way to move from one spot to another so check to see if they do multiple pick ups or drop offs on your chosen tour. The large coaches have room for bags underneath so no drama!

    Pick Up in Grindelwald

    All of the Best of Switzerland Tours adventures start from the front of the Interlaken Outdoor Shop. There were a couple of seats but we all huddled when it started drizzling. Luckily, it didn’t last too long and our guide took us around the back to the car park. We passed our big bags over to the driver and then head up the coach stairs to find some seats on the top deck. This gave us super views as the bus wound its way through the valley to gorgeous Grindelwald. Along the way, we had some interesting commentary and important information from our guide, Regula over the coach’s loudspeaker.

    The Eiger Express

    We were given a short bathroom break after everyone disembarked from the coach and then we all gathered together, ready to board the Eiger Express. To reach the first stop, Eigergletscher (Eiger Glacier) everybody used to take the train but in December 2020 a huge new cable car opened. This lovely, modern cable car whisks you up in just 15 minute whilst affording some rather nice views.

    The group had their tickets handed out and we were all told emphatically not to lose them. These tickets aren’t cheap and if you lose it, you are paying your own way back down! We scanned through the ticket barriers and divided into two gondolas. We all had a great view as the cable car whooshed out of the station and over the lush green fields of the Bernese Oberland.

    About five minutes into the ride, we rose into the clouds and rain. Drops gently caught the windows and the photographers of the group started to look nervous as they tried to capture the evergreen forests below. Just two minutes after, however, we had bypassed the rainy spot and instead emerged into a world of white snow and dark rock. The beautiful icy vistas continued until we piled out at our second station stop.

    Eigergletscher Station – 2,320 m

    We had a short break once again to explore Eigergletscher Station or run for a wee. We wandered out onto the snowy plateau, excited to see the snow falling but sad that it was whiting out lots of the view. There were some people up there that had never seen snow before and watching the children, especially, discovering the joys and chilly wetness of it was so much fun. I wonder how many people have had their first experience of snow here in the last 125 years.

    Of course, I dropped and nearly lost my important ticket and so had a quick rethink about where I kept it.

    Jungfrau Cogwheel Railway

    Once back together, the group took the escalator down to the platform for the iconic cogwheel railway. We were all given a pretend Swiss passport which had loads of info about Jungfraujoch and a space to get it stamped at the top. We decided to have a quick flick through it on the train ride.

    The cogwheel railway has been running for over a hundred years and has two tracks. This one took us up and then we hopped on the other to come the other way. The cogwheel (or rack) railway works by combing a toothed wheel and a grooved middle rail. It makes a rather unique noise as it sets off and rattles its way up the hill. Well, actually it is through the hill. This railway actually travels steeply through the mountain in a long tunnel. There isn’t much of a view but it is very novel.

    Halfway up is a stop that it usually pauses at, we were told that we were not going to be stopping there but soon, the plan changed and we found we were actually going to get the chance to see Eismeer Station.

    Eismeer Station – 3,159 m

    The main idea of Eismeer is to give everyone a view of Ischmeer (Ice Sea). We weren’t so lucky. Everyone rushed off the train, with calls of, “Only five minutes” ringing in our ears. Sadly, the fog/cloud had completely obscured any view and it was like the blinds were shut on the other side of the glass. We giggled at our bad fortune, took a photo or two and ran back to the train.

    No, this isn’t a broken picture…this was the view
    So excited

    Touching the Top of Europe, Jungfraujoch – 3454 m

    The next station was the big one, Jungfraujoch! The whole train emptied out, everyone following their respective tour guides. Regula took us straight through the cafe, explaining that we would be meeting back there and the specified time. Half of our group didn’t seem to be listening so I was curious to see how that would go.

    Jungfraujoch – The Sphinx

    Our first stop was a group trip up The Sphinx. This rocky overlook holds the name of The Sphinx, as does the astronomical observatory on top. The public can head out onto the open metal platform and take in the view of the three main mountain peaks visible from here; Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau. At least, that was what we were hoping for but we were greeted by a wall of grey. Tourists stood around taking photos of each other against the dull backdrop and of the Sphinx building, the only visible landmark. We did the same but when t started snowing, decided to duck back inside for the indoor activities on offer. (After scoffing our pretty poor packed lunch and waiting for our feet to warm up).

    Another stunning view
    Catching snowflakes
    Jungfraujoch – The Alpine Sensation Exhibition

    The group dispersed as some decided to go through the exhibition and others bypassed it. We wanted to see as much as possible so we head on in. This was a fun museum detailing the building of the railway and Jungfraujoch. I loved the section all about the old hotel which once stood up here that sadly, burned down. It would have been phenomenal to stay up here. Mr Fluskey particularly loved all the old black-and-white photos of the construction years with workers and their families looking so smart. We thought that the moving walkway was a nice touch for those that struggle with mobility but we walked back to take a longer look at the exhibits.

    Jungfraujoch – The Ice Palace

    I had seen photos of the ice tunnel that forms the entrance of the Ice Palace but I never knew the whole thing was frozen!? I guess it makes sense as this has been carved inside the glacier. Everyone half walks, half ice skates along the thin ice tunnel, giggling and trying to skid whilst hanging onto the railing for dear life. It was great fun. We traversed this corridor before arriving at an ice museum. There were some really cool ice carvings and we made ourselves laugh far too hard at the ice bar, (no vodka on offer here though). Sadly, Mr Fluskey’s boots were so good at gripping that he couldn’t skate very well, whereas I loved slipping and sliding through the attraction.

    Jungfraujoch – The Plateau

    We head up three floors and felt a cold wind blowing in. This was the exit to the Plateau. The snow was whipping in and it was a steep little climb out to the wide section of exposed mountain. We saw everyone taking photos over by a big Swiss flag so of course we went and waited our turn. As we did, the snow stopped and it began to brighten up a little.

    As the sky was a little brighter we walked past this mildly cleared section and found knee-deep, untouched snow. It was really tempting to make snow angels but it seemed like a bad plan with no change of clothes. I nearly fell face forward into the drifts as we struggled across. Then, all of a sudden, a cloud shifted, the sun broke through and we could see the mountain peak behind, edged by blue sky. I mildly freaked out with excitement. Finally, a view…and it lasted for three whole minutes. We made our way back down the slope slowly and carefully, deciding to head back up the Spinx just incase we had another glimpse of sky.

    Jungfraujoch – Lindt Swiss Chocolate Heaven

    The Lindt shop is the highest in the world and so we couldn’t skip it completely but we did rather rush through it. There were two rooms, one which seemed like a little museum and then a smaller, very, very busy shop stuffed with delicious Lindt chocolate. We dashed through, mouths watering and thank goodness we did because, on the way out, an extremely kind cashier gave us a Lindt ball each. After our dry sandwich lunch, this was a real treat.

    Jungfraujoch – The Sphinx 2 (Electric Boogaloo)

    We stormed back down the stairs and up the long stone corridor to the Sphinx lift. I could see sunshine as the door opened and ran to the door for the outdoors. There, still hazy but distinctly visible compared to before was one of the three peaks. It was so crazy to see what that grey cloud was hiding, majestic mountains covered in pretty snow. I was far too happy! Soon enough the peak disappeared again but as the clear spot travelled across the mountains, the other peaks made their own cameo in our day. All in all, we got about ten minutes of glorious sunshine and stunning views. I am so, so glad we made our mad dash.

    Jungfraujoch – The Cafe

    As the cloud moved in again, we checked our watches and realised we had about 30 minutes left before the meeting time. We decided to go down to the cafe, wait and warm up. Plus, if they had some sort of delicious boozy hot chocolate to sip while we waited, I was all for it. Sadly there was no Baileys hot choccy to be had but we did find a nice table by the window. I was a little tempted by the schnapps but thought better of it. Giving up on the view, we stamped our pretend passports and waited for our group to appear. At the meeting time, Regula, our guide, and two other people had gathered. She gave everyone five more minutes but the train was leaving whether they were there or not so off we went.

    The Cogwheel 2 – The Descent

    Everybody ran and managed to make the train in time and we all settled in for our cogwheel journey downhill. We had a nice chat with some fellow group members who had discovered a bar. It was out by the area with the adventure sports. I was a little jealous but just at that moment, a lovely train conductor came through and gave us all a little Lindt chocolate bar. Two free choccies in one day!

    The Final Train

    The train came out of the tunnel and into a flurry of snowflakes. The snow we’d seen thus far was light and small but this was real snow, falling in big, insistent flakes. We had a 20 minute change at Kleine Scheldegg and everyone crammed into the warm, dry ticket office.

    The final train of the day took us back into the world of green grass and tourist accommodation. We chugged down the sides of steep slopes through open-sided concrete tunnels and under ski slopes. Train wound down towards and around the car-free village of Wengen where the train filled up with people on their own day trips. The final leg took us through the beautiful town of Lauterbrunnen and its iconic waterfalls. We didn’t actually have any time to sightsee here so i was really glad we saw it the day before.

    The Coach to Zürich

    Everyone walked straight from the train station to the coach park where I ran for a bathroom stop and then back to the coach. We settled into our red leather seats, plugged in our phones and prepared for a comfy three-hour ride to Zürich. We picked the wrong side for the nice views but caught a few pretty vistas. Mr Fluskey slept for quite a bit of the way but just as my eyes started closing, we got some commentary about Zürich. I perked up as it meant Zürich was approaching and we were soon driving through the city streets. We pulled into the main bus station and grabbed our bags, ready for the fifteen-minute walk to Krone Zurich Pop Up Hostel.

    Final Thoughts for Our Day at the Top of Europe, Jungfraujoch with Best of Switzerland Tours

    This day tour was a long day but it flew by and I loved nearly all of it. Of course, I was very disappointed when I thought that we wouldn’t see anything but the pure serotonin hit when the sun came out was divine. I wonder if we had still been up there if we hadn’t been on Best of Switzerland’s timeline? Either way, it was really nice to relax and be guided for the day after organising a month of interrailing. Leave the logistics to someone else and take it all in!

    I can’t help it, I am a bit of a box ticker when it comes to Europe and I just couldn’t leave Switzerland without seeing the top of Europe, Jungfraujoch. Next stop, Tanggula Mountain Railway Station (the highest train station in the whole world).

    Rosie xx

  • Riding the Rails – Montreux to Interlaken GoldenPass Express Prestige Class Review

    Riding the Rails – Montreux to Interlaken GoldenPass Express Prestige Class Review

    The train line that runs between Montreux and Interlaken is one of the most popular tourist routes in Switzerland. There have been some lovely trains that travel between these two spots but, until very recently, travellers have had to change trains at Zweisimmen. However, there is a new kid in town with a rather neat party trick, allowing you to travel in comfort the whole way. Plus, it is one of the most comfortable train rides in the world! Read on for our full GoldenPass Express Prestige Class review.

    This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

    Tickets

    Our journey was booked by MOB but if we wanted to use our 1st class Interrail passes, we would have had to pay CHF20 for the seat reservations and then CHF15 for the Prestige supplement. That’s just £35 for the extra exclusivity and comfort. This is quite the bargain in my opinion.

    You can book your reservation ahead of the two-month ticket sales so get straight on that as soon as you decide to take the train, especially if you are coming in high season. You can pick your perfect seats and then grab the ticket if you need one when those bookings open. Not many people know this so you will beat the rush.

    Boarding at Montreux

    We thought we were arriving at the station nice and early, turning up 20 minutes in advance. However, we quickly realised that everyone else had already boarded! We dropped our bags inside the train and then took a few quick snaps of the gorgeous blue and gold exterior. After making a couple of reels and laughing at the name of the carraige (Shania Train) we settled into our lovely, comfortable Prestige Class seats.

    The GoldenPass Express Prestige Class Carriage

    Prestige Class was a small section at the back of the train, separated from first class by a couple of steps and an opaque glass partition. I believe this is the front of the train when it travels in the other direction as there is a driver’s cab in there too. The elevated section gives a wonderful view of the landscape as it has a higher vantage. Above the big, wide windows was a panorama window to see up to the sky. In the UK, this wouldn’t be worth it, but when you are passing through glorious valleys with mountains, it is such a treat for everyone to see the top!

    The Seats

    The creamy beige leather seats feel very luxurious and as we settled in we got very excited about all of the options they offered. There were buttons galore and the seats were very adjustable, giving everyone the most comfortable ride from individual to individual. On the controls, we could change the footrest, lumbar support or recline. We fiddled with buttons, giggling with delight. It will never get old to sit in a seat as it whirs to life and pokes you in the back. Oh, and it is also heated for those winter journeys. In the armrests were our little tray tables and between our chairs we each had a AC plug and a USB plug too.

    The perfectly adjusted seat with its super comfortable cushioning and giant headrest was so delilously comfortable. I was tempted to curl up and have a nap but just didn’t want to miss the view.

    There are several videos on social media that make it look like you can swivel the seats so you can stare straight out of the window. However, this is not actually the case. The chairs can be swung around but only lock in when facing forwards or backwards.

    Petit Déjeuner

    Very soon after we departed, the person in charge of our carriage came to check who had ordered breakfast. It was just us and one other couple and we all had a basket presented to us. along with a coffee. The croissant was great but we were rather full from our hotel breakfast (bad planning on our part) so we saved one for later. I was impressed at how nice the coffee was too, expecting instant but it seemed pressed.

    The View

    The most important thing of our GoldenPass Express Prestige Class review is the spectacular views! Great vistas are afforded to travellers on the hill that winds its way up from Montreux. The sparkling lake backed by green hills has everybody glued to the windows and, as the train makes several turns, both sides get a great view. Through a tunnel and you emerge in a green valley with snow-capped mountains above. It is Swiss perfection. (Mind you, if the clouds decide to smother them, you won’t need them quite so much).

    This is the Vaud Alps and the train winds around the hills before the scenery levels out. It then begins to pass through the villages and along the rivers of Bernese Oberland. It really doesn’t get old and the last section runs along Lake Thun, one of the two linked by Interlaken. If you’re more organised than us, you can spot Gstaad Palace as you turn out of town after the station. We were so busy discussing our lunch that we totally forgot to snap it.

    Déjeuner

    Very soon after breakfast was taken away, we were given our lunch! We had a planchette of cheese, cured meats, some pretzel-style bread and a lovely glass of wine. We were already pretty full but everything was so tasty that we just kept eating. The wine was a quintessential Swiss white that paired with the cheese perfectly. The lovely lady looking after us said that it would be ideal if we could finish by the next stop. We tried our best but couldn’t drink all of the wine in time. She took away the slates and then we were surprised to see her on the platform at the next stop as we chugged away and left her behind.

    The Change

    Now, one of the things we were most looking forward to was the magical track change. It is the big GoldenPass Express party trick, meaning that in theory, we could travel all the way to Interlaken. This means you keep your super comfy seat, leave your luggage untouched and not have to face the Swiss weather. The wheels slowly change to fit the next section of track which has a different gauge to the section between Montreux and Interlaken. That’s a change from 1000 to 1435 mm in seconds without stopping. Its a world first and still truly fascinating.

    However, due to issues on the track, we had to change to another train. We all scrambled to find new seats, with first class rather less plush than the Prestige Class we’d left behind. It all made sense. That was why we had to finish all of our food so quickly; the new train didn’t have such provisions. It was a real disappointment as we were really looking forward to experiencing the bogies adjusting but it sounded like there was an issue with the track.

    Arriving in Interlaken

    We were so happy to see the sunshine when we disembarked at Interlaken Ost. Everyone spilled out from the station and our hostel was just a ten-minute walk. The blue sky, pretty flowers and hills rising up around Interlaken made it the perfect welcome.

    Final Thoughts for Our GoldenPass Express Prestige Class Review

    Having tried all three trains that run along this line, we both agreed that the GoldenPass Express was the most comfortable and Prestige Class felt so luxurious. The cabin’s 9 seats were full but it still felt exclusive. Let’s face it, sipping a crisp white wine as the world slips by will always be a winner! In a country that does train travel so very well, and with some of the world’s most iconic routes, this is a crowning jewel in the Swiss train crown.

    Rosie xx

  • 10 Tips for Taking the Caledonian Sleeper Train to Scotland

    10 Tips for Taking the Caledonian Sleeper Train to Scotland

    Taking a sleeper train can be convenient and fun but it takes a few nights and some top tips to learn how to make it easier and more comfortable. Although I have a brain full of general tips for night trains, this article is all about specific tips for taking the Caledonian Sleeper train to Scotland.

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  • Riding the Rails – Caledonian Sleeper Review, Edinburgh to London

    Riding the Rails – Caledonian Sleeper Review, Edinburgh to London

    Travelling between Edinburgh and London, travellers have a wide variety of options. They can whizz down on a high-speed train in just four hours, zoom down on a short-haul flight or even drive in a day. However, there is no mode of transport so exciting as the final option, the night train. So what is it like onboard? Join us for our Edinburgh to London Caledonian Sleeper review.

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  • A Bed in Glenfinnan – Glenfinnan Sleeping Car Review

    A Bed in Glenfinnan – Glenfinnan Sleeping Car Review

    Here at Flying Fluskey, we love an overnight train. It’s no secret (just check out our train reviews). However, let’s be real, it is never an amazing night’s sleep. The rocking of the train, the squeal of its breaks, the movements of fellow passengers as they board and disembark, these all disturb slumber. So what is the solution? Enjoying a night in a stationary sleeping car perhaps? Find out in our Glenfinnan Sleeping Car review.

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  • Riding the Rails – Taking The Night Train from Yangon to Bagan

    Riding the Rails – Taking The Night Train from Yangon to Bagan

    There are several ways to travel from Yangon to Bagan in Burma (Myanmar). Some people choose to fly. Others, on a tighter budget, book nighttime buses. We just HAD to try out the train! I know what you’re thinking, “Another train story”? …Well, if you insist! Join us on the night train from Yangon to Bagan.

    We love a train ride! Check out our other Riding the Rails blog posts here.

    Buying Tickets for the Train from Yangon to Bagan

    After a little research, and trawling The Man in Seat 61, we found the 12go Asia website. We had never used this website before but it seemed to have all sorts of transport on there and great reviews.

    We put in our request for tickets and during the process, were given the option to refuse lower bunks, take a different train and a few other options. Great stuff! Train tickets in Myanmar aren’t released until close to the departure date so we put in our preferred date and crossed our fingers.

    Top Tip: There are a few different classes of travel, from hard wooden seats, to full padded sleepers. For the flat beds, you will want to book Upper Class Sleeper.

    Picking Up the Tickets

    The day before we were due to travel, our booking was confirmed. Yangon to Bagan, on the sleeper train, in seats A1 and A2. Perfect. All we had to do then was pop to their office in Yangon to swap the tickets. We had booked at Rangoon Boutique Hostel, just around the corner from the shop and the station so this took no time…once we had found it.

    Top Tip: It worth noting that the office (EPG Travel) isn’t too easy to find. To pick up your tickets, look for the True Coffee shop and just to the right there is a slope leading into the condominium. Walk down the slope and around to the left, you will find a lift. That will take you up to the fifth floor where you’ll find the EPG Travel offices to your left

    Boarding the Night Train to Bagan

    When we arrived at Yangon Central Station (a ten minute walk from the office, our tickets were checked and we were directed to platform three. We walked down the platform, past the waiting throngs, and back through a gate. More helpful guards pointed out the bridge crossing and we lumbered over.

    It was easy enough to find our carriage as gangs of children dashed over to show us the way. They held cold water and snacks, and once we were in our section, they darted in and out to try and make a sale. One girl spent quite a long time trying to convince us to buy water, then played on my phone for a bit.

    What is Like On Board a Sleeper Train in Myanmar? – The Practical Stuff

    The Carriage

    Our sleeper compartment slept four in an unusual configuration. There was no adjoining corridor connecting all of the compartments, instead, we were totally isolated from the rest of the train. It was good not to have people bumping into us but I was hoping to take a wander through the carriages and meet some people. I could have changed carriages at one of the stops but didn’t quite have the guts.

    Our roommates were a french couple who were pleasant enough but not so chatty. For a while, we thought they didn’t speak English but it turned out, they were pretty fluent.

    The Hygiene

    I am not a clean freak by any means but this night train from Yangon to Bagan was pretty mucky. The general carriage interior was very dusty. I guess that is only to be expected with open windows. However, the bathroom and other side room were both filthy. I found myself craving the odd antibacterial wipe.

    The Seats

    PROS

    • Each passenger has two seats to themselves meaning we all got a nice view out of the window.
    • The covers reminded me of 1990s Network Rail.
    • The seats could be reclined a little.
    • There was a ton of legroom.
    • There was a table between the seats for dinner time.

    CONS

    • The covers were old and ripped.
    • The padding was OK, but not quite comfy enough for the level of bouncing we did.
    The Fixtures And Fittings

    Our carriage had a small luggage rack between the two upper bunks but this was only used for rubbish and food bags. Also on the ceiling, there was a small fan. We were thankful for this when we first boarded but it was quickly shut off when the evening took hold.

    The windows could be closed which was a relief when the temperature dropped. There were also wooden shutters along with the light green curtains to block out the flashing lights of the world outside passing by. The shutters were quite heavy but once you got the hang of them, they were easy enough to open and close.

    The Bathroom

    As mentioned, this little room was less than pristine. It seemed coated in years of dust and dirt rather than freshly grimy. Changing in there was rather unpleasant. As the train bucked underneath me, I reached for the wall and then regretted it a little.

    The toilet was a metal drop loo, like the kind found on Indian trains. Below, the tracks were clearly visible as they whizzed below. To flush, there was a small hose (bum gun). No toilet roll was provided.

    The sink drained onto the floor so I used the hose to wash my hands directly down the loo instead, trying to maintain the dry floor.

    What is Like On Board a Night Train in Myanmar? – The Experience

    “Strap yourselves on folks, it’s going to be a bumpy ride”.

    The Tracks

    The train began to rock and queasy thoughts of seasickness crossed my mind. Can you throw up out the window of a train without losing your head? I really didn’t fancy using the toilet that we all had to share. As it didn’t flush with water, it would have been a very messy business. Luckily, the sideways rocking only happened occasionally, and wasn’t bad enough to induce any sickness.

    I was expecting bumps, and had even heard rumours of frequent derailments. It was as I thought. We bounced our way through the Burmese countryside and rattled across railway crossings. Children waved and we waved frantically back.

    Mickey

    I said before that there were four of us sharing the cabin…that wasn’t quite true. The fifth member of our travelling gang was a small, light grey mouse. He only made a few appearances but one of them was on the french couple’s chair. I’m not scared of mice but I am not a fan of waking up to one scampering across my face and that was on mind all through the night.

    Top Tip: Tie food bags to the luggage rack between the beds.

    Dinner Time

    As night fell, the waiter knocked and handed us two polystyrene boxes. One was full of the fried rice we had ordered from him a little earlier, and the other containing questionable looking chicken. A memory of the misunderstanding between Mr Fluskey and the waiter popped up. Oh yes, he had put two fingers up, and called it, “Fried rice, and chicken”, not chicken fried rice.

    We wolfed down the rice (oily but inoffensive) but didn’t know what to do about the chicken, so we hid it in the room at the end of the carriage in the hopes it may lure Mickey away from the sleeping area.

    Bedtime

    Everyone made nighttime stirrings, closing the curtains and shutters on the windows, putting sheets on the bed, and the whole pantomime show of big, fake yawns.

    As I settled into my “bed”, I realised just how uncomfortable it was. The metal casings of the chairs could be clearly felt by a hipbone. The chairs tipped away from the centre meaning my head was tipped back at a strange angle. Oh, and there was no blanket. I don’t know whether they forgot to give us one or if that is standard but we only had one sheet, and a pillow.

    The Fridge

    The cold began to creep in. At first it wasn’t too bad, but as the night progressed I put on more and more clothes to try and combat the chill. By morning, I was in:

    • my pyjamas,
    • a cardigan,
    • a maxi dress,
    • a down jacket,
    • two pairs of socks
    • sleeping under a scarf

    ….and I was still covered in goose pimples and desperate for the sun to heat up the carriage.

    Top Tip: BRING A BLANKET, A SLEEPING BAG OR SEVENTY MILLION LAYERS

    I know this logo on the sheet stands for Myanmar Railways….but it totally says Mr Boobs!
    The Sleep

    It was a combination of the constant, violent movement, and arctic conditions (ok, that is a touch hyperbolic) that meant I was awake all night. It should have been called the “not-so-much-sleep-er-train”. Still, I didn’t manage to binge-watch the entire first series of Sex Education on Netflix so you know, every cloud!

    Morning Time

    At 7:20, we had a knock on the door

    “Hello!”

    I was in a weird daze, thinking the night would never end and so I didn’t really clock that this was real.

    “Hellooooo”

    This was accompanied by a loud knock on the window that made myself and my french companions jump out of our skins. The waiter was back with their breakfast so it officially time to reset our seats and give up on sleep.

    All except for Mr Fluskey who was finally getting some rest so I left him to it.

    Arriving in Bagan by Train

    The night train from Yangon to Bagan was due to arrive at 09:30, and as this time approached I gave Mr Fluskey a little shake to get him up and off his bunk. I knew we were running late but not sure exactly by how much. The train slowly crawled towards Bagan, stopping at red signals on the single track.

    The train pulled into Bagan at 10:50, only an hour and twenty minutes later than scheduled. Considering the swathes of reports I had read that said they were often hours and hours late, this wasn’t too bad.

    Getting to Nyaung-U from Bagan Train Station

    Taxi drivers and tuk-tuk drivers descended upon the tourists on the train platform. We agreed to a taxi into town for 8000 MMK (around £4) which may have been slightly too much but we were SO tired that we just wanted to get to a real bed. If you good at haggling, 6000 MMK should be manageable.

    Shared pickup trucks ply the main road a short walk from the front of the station. We believe they take people into Nyuang-U but not being on a tight budget, we didn’t investigate fully.

    The taxi stopped at a checkpoint and we paid for our Bagan Tourist Ticket. They took our photo (after no sleep, that was mean). This tickets covers tourists for the whole Bagan area for a week but in reality it is checked rarely. We had two checks out of about fifty pagodas. Still, we did see people having to pay during one these checks so I wouldn’t skip it.

    Information for Taking the Night Train to Bagan from Yangon

    If you are thinking of taking the night train, here are a few things you might like to know:

    • Tickets are available four days before the date of travel. If you are in Yangon, you can go and purchase them yourself but get there quickly as the sleepers can sell out.
    • 12Go Asia is a good option for those that either won’t be in town when tickets are released or just don’t fancy the effort of getting the station etc
    • Rangoon Boutique House is a good budget hostel close to both the 12Go Asia offices and the station.
    • For those on a swankier budget, check out Zealax Hotel and Residence. It is not near the station at all, but was rather lovely and they can organise a transfer.

    When you’re ready to leave Bagan, check out How to Travel Bagan to Mandalay by Boat on an Irrawaddy Cruise

    Final Thoughts on the Night Train from Yangon to Bagan

    I am so conflicted about our night train from Yangon to Bagan. I am glad we tried it but regret bitterly that we didn’t have any kind of blanket. Whether that is their fault for not giving us one or ours for not bringing one, I am not sure. Either way, I was bloody freezing and wouldn’t choose to repeat the experience in a hurry.

    I am wondering whether a day time train trip would have been a better plan than the sleeper train from Yangon to Bagan, then there wouldn’t have been that terrible attempt at sleep, and we would have been warm. The run between Mandalay and Hsipaw, passing over the infamous Goteik Viaduct is meant to be a lovely journey. Maybe we should try that one next time eh!?

    Rosie xx

  • Trans-Siberian Reflections – The Good, The Bad and The Yummy

    Trans-Siberian Reflections – The Good, The Bad and The Yummy

    Rosie in a beret looks out of the window of Ostankino Tower in Moscow
    Trans-Siberian Reflections in Ostankino TV Tower, Moscow

    Our total fail in Harbin aside, in early 2019 Mr Fluskey and I travelled the length of Asia by train over almost three weeks. We managed 4770 miles on the tracks! At the very start of our journey, on our flight to Shanghai, we had watched the map on the monitors, wondering what the landscape below had in store for us. Even at 39,000 feet it seemed to take forever to pass over Russia, but somehow we crossed quite a sizeable chunk of it by train…in January! (And I didn’t freeze to death!) We wanted to look back over our whole adventure, so let us share some Trans-Siberian reflections:

    Thinking of planning your own Trans-Siberian travels? Check our post all about planning a Trans-Siberian trip, including our top ten tips!

    The Good – Our Ten Trans-Siberian Reflections High Points

    I’m not going to lie, this whole trip was pretty amazing. It has been so nice to relive it by blogging my way through it, but I didn’t get to tell you everything that happened and these highlights deserve to be shared:

    1.) Incredible Timing….After Terrible Timing

    So, after missing our train in China (more about that fail further down the list) we returned to our hostel and began to investigate alternative routes into Russia. It was with crazy luck, the flight between Harbin (China) and Irkutsk (Siberia) left the next morning. This flight on a rather tiny plane, only flies once a week and we were so fortunate to snag what seemed to be the last two seats.

    Fluky Fluskeys eh!?

    IrAero Bombardier CRJ-200 plane at Harbin Taiping International Airport
    2.) Actually Enjoying Winter Sports

    Barrelling through the snow on a dogsled in Lake Baikal was my kind of winter sport. I say, legs stuck out in front of me, bouncing and giggling. It was mildly adrenaline fuelled, involved almost zero effort from me, and they lent us huge boots and beautifully padded jumpsuits. The best thing was to finally be interacting with the landscape that had been on the other side of the train window. Read all about it here.

    dog sledding in the woods in Siberia, Russia
    3.) Ice, Ice Baby

    Harbin Ice and snow festival, in northeast China, was a complete marvel. I had seen pictures of its giant ice structures, I had read that they were life-sized, but I’m not sure I truly believed it until I saw the entrance gate looming above us. As the sunset, the lights inside the immense glass-like structures were turned on and the incredibly gaudy colours shone across the site.

    Read our ultimate guide to the Harbin snow and ice festival here

    We were SO lucky with the weather. -10°C may not sound warm, but when you realise that this is 10-15°C warmer than the seasonal average, it doesn’t seem so bad. It meant that we could stay at the festival for a good amount of time, only feeling the serious sting of cold towards the end of the evening.

    Harbin Ice & Snow Festival in the evening lit up by colourful lights, China
    Rosie in front of an ice building at the Harbin Ice & Snow Festival, China

    The next day, the clouds cleared and we had a bright blue sky, contrasting beautifully with dazzling white snow sculptures. It was everything I had dreamed it would be, and really quite a lot more!

    4.) …More Ice, Ice Baby

    On a day trip from the Russian university city of Perm, we explored the glittering caves of ice in Kungur. We have been through a fair number of caves, but I’ve never seen them lined with glitter before. I don’t know what I was expecting but there was a lot to see down there, and it was weird to feel like 0°C was warm! Check out the whole blog post see all those surprises.

    Ice formations in the Kungur Ice Cave, Perm Krai, Russia
    Can you see the sparkles?
    5.) A Dessert-esque Cathedral

    Saint Basil’s Cathedral was so beautifully colourful inside and out, like an ice cream sundae laden with E-numbers. Even though it wasn’t actually the end of our journey, it felt like the spiritual end. It is always the first image that springs to mind when I think of Russia and its iconic towers held more treasures than I knew. Every room had a crazy colour scheme or a stunning wall of art. It was like Lawrence Llewellyn Bowen had been given free reign to build a cathedral.

    a Christmas fair on Red Square in front of St Basil's Cathedral, Moscow, Russia
    So colourful!

    Heading to Moscow? Read all about the best way to spend 48 hours in Moscow here!

    6.) Chilly Buddhists

    Exploring our first city in Russia, I was expecting a few orthodox churches, and a giant stone head of a famous Soviet leader, but who knew there was going to be a golden pagoda in the snow in Ulan-Ude!? It was definitely strange to feel my body in utter confusion trying to resolve its usual state of warmth when visiting Buddhist monasteries with the utterly bitter winter wind. Still, it was a nice view across Ulan-Ude and I taught us a little about the diversity of Russia.

    Golden stupa surrounded by snow at Rinpoche Bagsha Datsan Buddhist temple in Ulan-Ude, Russia
    Rinpoche Bagsha Datsan Buddhist temple
    7.) Reliving Someone Else’s Childhood

    Just around the corner from Red Square in Moscow is a very special games arcade. Machines here are relics of a gaming era gone by. Metal, very tactile games kept us thoroughly entertained for almost two hours. It was a lovely, carefree time. We had to buy more tokens because it was so nice to unwind like kids.

    Russian pinball machine
    8.) Staying Upright in Moscow

    No, not because of the vodka! Surviving a whole session in Gorky Park’s amazing ice rink without landing on my bottom was a sensation! The rink is immense, and skaters can follow long tracks, eat, drink and be merry over 800m² of ice. It makes every rink in London feel teeny tiny and I am incredibly jealous of Moscovites that we don’t have this in London.

    ice rink lit up at night in Gorky Park, Moscow, Russia
    9.) Exploring a Palace

    We didn’t have much time in St Petersburg, but we made the most of what time we had by heading straight to the huge and beautiful Hermitage Museum. Spread across five buildings, this is part palace, part gallery, part history museum and wholly gorgeous.

    Red walls and gold gilt ceiling of The Small Throne Room of the Winter Palace, Moscow
    The Small Throne Room of the Winter Palace, Moscow
    10.)Smashing Our Preconceptions of Russia

    Give Russia a quick google, look on BBC iPlayer, or log into Facebook, and the image of Russia that appears is one of a scary state, ruled by a hard-face, hard-abbed semi-dictator. Human rights are sliding into reverse and the background of grey concrete is ever present. But boy, was it great to replace those images with great memories of lovely people, ready to help and eager to chat. We saw snow-covered, brightly-coloured wooden buildings and stunning natural scenery. I am going to try and hold these with me next time I see all that bad news coming out of the country.

    The Bad – Our Ten Trans-Siberian Reflections Low Points

    Messing up during our travels usually make the best stories. There were only a couple of serious fails during this trip, and then there were the times things just weren’t going our way:

    1.) The Harbin Trans-Siberian Epic Fail

    The day we missed the train was almost a total bust. If it wasn’t for the wonders of the snow festival on Sun Island, I would have had a mini meltdown (snow pun intended). Luckily, exploring the amazing snow sculptures left me feeling so elated that I had just enough joy to get me through that weird and horrible mistake.

    To cut a long story short, we somehow sat at Harbin station and never actually caught our train to Russia. To make a short story long, read all about our epic Trans-Siberian fail in the blog post all about that frustrating day here.

    2.) Guidebook Fails

    As much as I love my guidebooks, they are only ever as up to date as the last time the writer visited that destination. That could be up to three years before the book was actually published. This has led to plenty of long, pointless searches for places that are shut, gone, closed or changed.

    n open guide book

    Trekking around the streets of Harbin, after a long day in the cold, my tummy was growling and my legs were freezing. We got to the right area of town and began looking for the spot recommended by LP. As we searched fruitlessly, the potent stink of tripe wafted across the street. It permeated everywhere and we just couldn’t seem to escape it. There are many unpleasant smells to encounter around the world but tripe is one that poor Mr Fluskey just can’t abide. 

    We finally discovered the restaurant closed and dark, clearly long shut, and this disappointment, my freezing feet and Mr Fluskey’s offended nasal passages left the whole evening with a thoroughly unpleasant aftertaste.

    3.) Temperature Control

    We just had one proper argument during the trip, and Mr Fluskey didn’t even realise that it was one. During our sightseeing day in Ulan-Ude, with temperatures down at -19°C, my legs began to hurt n a new way. The muscles ached, and the skin felt completely red raw as I walked. I was desperate to get back to the hotel to warm up, but he wanted to see one last thing (a tank across the other side of a huge road). I started shouting at Mr Fluskey in the street and I was close to tears.

    We went to see the tank and it was NOT worth it.

    Ulan-Ude weather screenshot partly cloudy -19°C

    When we got back to the room, I peeled off my base layer tights, leggings and jeans, as well as several pairs of socks. My thighs were bright pink and very cold to the touch. We both began wondering how close to hypothermia I was when my thighs would not return to their normal colour for hours. We went up to the rooftop bar, and despite being up there in a new pair of trousers, and with a blanket over my legs, they stayed cold. It was only when I had a shower and finally got into my pyjamas and dressing gown, that they warmed up and returned to their normal pale colour.

    4.) Temperature Control, the Other Way

    This one was a little less dangerous but…

    I have always said that I’d rather be too hot, than too cold. I still stick by that, but travelling from Perm to Moscow by train, we were starting to melt. The train was really hot, at 24°C. Normally that wouldn’t be bad but we were both forced to wear our thermal base layers they were the smallest clothes we had. Stupidly, we hadn’t packed anything for the possibility of warmth. Plus, our bodies had become so used to temperatures well below 0°C that I just think they had forgotten how to cope!

    Digital information screen on a Russian trans-Siberian train shows 24°C
    5.) Google Maps Fails

    Isn’t it interesting how we all rely so heavily on Google Maps these days? I am definitely guilty of this and it got us a little lost on two main occasions during this trip:

    • When heading to get our train from Moscow to St Petersburg, we went to the wrong station. Horrible memories of the epic fail in China rushed through me and I felt genuinely nauseous. It was my phone that had maps so it was my fault…or so I thought. Luckily, the right station was just across the road and we managed to catch the train. Crisis averted!
    • It was a little heartbreaking discovering that our Irkutsk hostel was in the wrong place on Google Maps After a good fifteen minutes of searching in snow that in some place came above our boots, we then ended up walking in the cold for another hour trying to find it. A very nice man stopped to try and help but he was as clueless as us and in the end, I was left feeling even colder and more despondent.
    A pastel coloured wooden building in Irkutsk, Russia
    6.) Where’s a Peg When You Need One

    That moment of dread when we realised our cabin companion in the train, was in dire need of a wash. Oh, how we prayed that he wasn’t staying on in our cabin for the entire 56 hour journey! We couldn’t believe our luck when he got up just two hours later

    7.) Getting Chilled to the Bone

    It’s funny, being out and about in below zero temperatures seems almost bearable…until you decided that you have had enough that is. Maybe it’s just me, but it’s like a switch flips internally and the cold is just unbearable all of a sudden. Every second after that point is unbearable.

    In Harbin, China, there is a strange lack of taxis. Demand outstrips supply considerably, and so it is not uncommon to find yourself sharing with other people. This also means, that even when taxis do come past they can be full, or deny you travel because they’re going in another direction. Imagine my dismay when I realised we had missed the last bus back to our hostel, and the only way to get back was by taxi. After being out and about all day my switch had flipped and I needed warm. We could not get a taxi for love nor money. It took a full 20 minutes to find a ride. I couldn’t help but take every rejection personally.

    A gold Hyundai taxi in Harbin, China
    8.) Yet More Terrible Timing

    I thoroughly enjoyed our trip out to Moscow’s Ostankino TV tower, however, getting back to central Moscow turned into a bit of a farce. Our train was delayed, then our train didn’t come. We were stuck at that station for a surprisingly long time before a train finally came. We knew we were cutting it fine as it was, but with the delays we got to Red Square long after the mausoleum had shut. I guess it’s an excuse to go back one day but I was so looking forward to seeing that waxy-faced Lenin.

    The outside Lenin's Mausoleum in Red square, Moscow, Russia
    9.) Technology Fails

    And we all love technology, as long as it’s working. During our Trans-Siberian travels we had two major technology fails.:

    • I took the most epic jacket on this trip. This bad boy was heated and it pretty much kept me alive in North China. Sadly, when i got to Russia, the plug adapter didn’t blend together so well, and the thing wouldn’t charge. After that, it was just a regular down jacket.
    • As you can see from this photo, I smashed my phone. It fell from my hand onto the see through floor of the TV tower on Moscow. Thank goodness it was only in the last couple of days.
    a cracked iphone screen
    10.) The End, Running Out of Trains

    If we had it our way, we would have had another week to travel. With that extra time, we could have carried on right across Europe. It was sad to realise that we wouldn’t quite make it all the way home from Asia by train. I guess with that whole “missing our train in China” thing, we wouldn’t have really achieved it anyway, but it still would been pretty cool.

    The Yummy – Our Ten Food and Drink Trans-Siberian Reflections

    The Trans-Siberian is not, for most people, a culinary adventure. We settled down to plenty of dried rice and noodles meals. However, we did have a few standout moments.:

    1.) Peking Duck

    What do you do with 8 hours in Beijing? Well obviously, you plan in a little sleep but mostly, you go for some world-class Peking duck at Da Dong. These guys take their duck very seriously. Perfectly crisp skin, tender meat and ALL the trimmings. Peking perfection.

    a chef carves Peking Duck in Da Dong Restaurant, Beijing, China
    2.) Dumpling Delights

    We all know I love (and am probably quite addicted to) dumplings. Anything steamed in a little dough wrapper will make me smile. I have several meals of dumplings during this trip, but Mr Yang’s in Shanghai took the trophy. The dumpling plate at just 27RMB (£3.00) were half steamed, half friend and ridiculously tasty. They squirted boiling porky lava across the table as we chomped into them with gusto. I am awfully tempted to return on my next swing through Shanghai. That’s three weeks and counting.

    6 steamed dumplings on a yellow plastic plate at Mr Yang's in Shanghai, China
    3.) Freezing Al Fresco

    Trying traditional sage tea and munching on slightly frozen ham in the middle of the snowy forest was a weird bonding experience with our dog-sled drivers.  If you suggested that I sit in the snow and have a picnic, I’d have stuck up some sort of digit but the hot tea, and little meat pelmeni dumplings made it almost warm enough. Let’s face it, put food in front of me, and I can make it through anything.

    pelmeni dumplings being prepared on a frozen wooden bench in Russia
    4.) An Unexpected Risotto

    Perm is a small university town at the foot of the Ural mountains. I wasn’t expecting to find anything amazing there but we found a wicked hipster-cafe for lunch. I ordered spectacularly good butternut squash risotto topped with incredibly tender venison on top. After so many meals of meat and potatoes, it was a beautiful difference. Mr Fluskey got a burger in a charcoal bun. It looked terrifying but apparently it was rather good.

    a venison and butternut squash risotto at Mishka Food in Perm, Russia
    5.) A Hot Milkshake…Type…Thing

    Did I mention that Harbin was cold…oh, only twice? Well, it was. It was FREEEEEEZING. Out of sheer desperation, we ducked into the beer lounge at the festival. Every other indoor space was packed, but it was blissfully empty and wonderfully warm in there. Best of all, they had more than just beer. We found these weird hot milk drinks. Just add boiling water and you’ve got what was just like a warm Nesquik. It was completely restorative and gave our insides just enough of a heat boost to get us home without weeping.

    Rosie, in a red jumper, holds a warm drink in both hands
    6.) A Prawn Bar….an Actual Prawn Bar!

    Moscow’s hipster haven, Danilovsky Market, was a revelation. Don’t get me wrong, I loved the food across Russia but it was all quite heavy and so, to spot something a little lighter was quite exciting. I ordered prawns and squid and treasured every salty, citrus-sprinkled bite.

    I did have to get a slice of pie afterwards…but that’s not the point.

    a plate of prawns and squid at Danilovsky Market, Moscow, Russia
    7.) Omul Fish

    In most guides about the Trans-Siberian, they tell of babushkas on the platforms, selling smoked omul fish. However, it seems like the Siberian winter keep these lovely ladies from the trains, and we didn’t see anyone. Apparently Lake Baikal is teaming with these tasty guys and so I was quite sad not to try them.

    Luckily, we found omul on the menu of Kochevnik, a Mongolian restaurant in Irkutsk. It was a lovely, meaty white fish that felt like a fresher contrast to the heavily smoked fish beside it.

    omul fish at Kochevnik Mongolian restaurant in Irkutsk, Russie
    8.) Fish Eggs Make me Happy

    In any sushi restaurant my first move is to scour the menu for those little balls of joy. Bright orange flying fish roe, big shiny salmon roe, the more eggs the better! Imagine the sheer joy I had slowly savouring a big spoon full of caviar in Moscow’s most luxurious shopping centre. Well, half a spoon. Sadly, I had to share with Mr Fluskey…and we could only afford the cheapest caviar but at £30 a gram (with a shot of Beluga Vodka) it was still excellent quality.

    Beluga caviar on a silver spoon and a shot of vodka on a wooden Beulga branded platter in Moscow, Russia
    9.) Birthday Bubbles

    Working our way through a bottle of Champansky on my birthday was the best way to celebrate. Timing meant that I had to be onboard all day, but the semi-sweet bubbles slipped down like a dream and we chatted with mild tipsyness very merrily.

    Rosie drinks Champansky in the dining car of a Russian trans-Siberian train
    10.) A Tasting Menu

    Our very last night of the trip, we decided to do something a little special. Our buddy Anna recommended a restaurant called Birch, and on arrival, we decided to go the whole hog and try their 10 course tasting menu. In London, this would have cost at least twice as much so you know, in for a penny, in for £50.

    I originally planned to blog about the experience and tried making notes. For the first two courses they were detailed intelligent and sounded vaguely like a Masterchef critique, but as the wine pairing and courses continued the notes started to slip. By the end, incoherent ramblings that mentioned the word dessert were all that was left. It was tons of fun, exciting, surprising, and delicious, the perfect end to our trans-siberian reflections.

    a tasting menu plate at Birch restaurant in Russia

    Final Trans-Siberian Reflections

    It’s been tricky to get everything down on paper (screen?) but to see absolutely everything we we have written about our Trans-Siberian adventure, you can check out all of our blog posts here or why not pop over to our Instagram and look through our Trans-Siberian story highlights!?

    Looking back, there were a few things we didn’t do like:

    • Get drunk with randoms on vodka.
    • Catch the train in China and see them change the wheels at the Russian China border.
    • Buy a fur hat.
    • Play with Russian dolls.
    • Miss home.
    • Lose any digits to frostbite. (Thanks heated gloves).
    • Meet any other travellers on the train from other European countries.
    • Stay awake through more than 10 minutes of our Siberia history audiobook.
    • Eat borscht.

    However, despite, and perhaps due to some of these missing things, this was the most amazing trip. Traversing from Shanghai to St Petersburg along the Trans-Manchurian by train (…mostly…) felt pretty epic. I know that in the travel blogosphere, everyone is tempted to make everything look perfect, but hopefully, this collection of blog posts has helped share all sides of this trip: the good, the bad and the yummy!

    Rosie and Karl take a selfie in a park with the trees covered in snow in St Petersburg, Russia

    Rosie xx