Tag: trains

Interrailing Switzerland on a Budget – How to Save Money in Switzerland
Interrailing in Europe is a rite of passage for travellers from across the world. The ticket can seem expensive but one country where it really pays off is Switzerland. You will save money when compared to booking individual trains for sure. However, there soon comes the realisation that you need to pay for everything else in Switzerland too. So, how do you save money on food in Switzerland? How do you save money on accommodation in Switzerland? Is Interrailing Switzerland on a budget even possible? We share all this and more!

This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

A Few General Tips

Always Pay in Local Currency

This is for card payments. If anyone asks if you would like to pay in your home currency, decline. The exchange rate when you do this is always terrible, with the business pocketing the difference. Pay in Swiss Francs and enjoy the better rate from your bank.

Bring a Fee Free Card

Get a card that allows you to use and to get money out in Switzerland with no additional charges. We love Revolut but this isn’t great for getting money out. There are plenty out there so do your homework before you travel. If at all possible, bring a selection of cards (Mastercard/Visa and debit/credit).

Plan Ahead

Yes, Interrailing does offer wonderful flexibility but if you are passing through expensive and/or popular spots in Switzerland then it is a good idea to book a few things in advance. Getting your accommodation sorted for the key points of the trip is a good start.

Make Sure You Have Travel Insurance

This is an initial financial outlay but trust us, you will be so grateful you have it if things go awry! You may have to pay out of pocket at the time but knowing they will be paying you back is so reassuring, especially in an expensive country like Switzerland. This is especially important if you are planning on doing any sports or adventure activities during your trip. We recommend EKTA for your insurance needs.

Get a Local Sim or an e-sim

Using your phone abroad can be expensive. If you are coming from outside the EU then Switzerland is no exception. Your phone provider probably charges a fair amount every day to use your phone in Europe. You have two better options. Either pick up a pay as you go local sim when you arrive. You will only really need data so look for the cheapest data-only sim you can. However, our preferred method is to get an e-sim. This can be done in advance (as long as your phone can use them) and activated on arrival. This saves the hassle of finding a phone shop and our favourite brand Airalo is great value.

How to Save Money on Transport in Switzerland

First Things First: Have An Interrail Ticket

If you have your main residence in Europe, the Interrail allows you unlimited train travel in 33 countries. This includes Switzerland. If your main residence is outside Europe, you benefit from the same discounts and opportunities with the Eurail Pass.

There are two main types of Interrail Passes:
- The Global Pass – The Global Pass gives users the freedom to travel through all 33 countries included in the pass. The only exclusion is that only have one day to leave your home country and one to return. This is perfect if you have a long time to travel, want to see lots of different spots or want the flexibility to make a decision later on (even whilst travelling).
- The One Country Pass – The Switzerland Country Pass only allows you to travel within Switzerland This is ideal if you have a shorter trip, or want to explore Switzerland in more depth. Bear in mind that there is no unlimited travel option so you need to pick how many travel days and the length of pass you require.
If you haven’t already booked an Interrail ticket, use our link. It won’t cost you any extra but will help support the blog – BOOK NOW

Once you have booked your ticket, you are free to use local and regional trains free of charge on the days you have chosen as your travel days. This makes travelling around the country so easy and cheap. We used it to hop around the lake in Montreux, chopping and changing as we found new adventures along the way.

Hop on the Panoramic Trains

OK, so technically this doesn’t actually save you money BUT you will be amazed at the trains that are included with the Interrail Pass. You can have some truly special train rides without forking out for the wildly pricy Goldenpass Express and its other luxury brothers and sisters.
- The Belle Epoque – This runs between Montreux and Zweisimmen and has gorgeous 1930s style carriages, lined with wood and turquoise seats. It feels like something from an Agatha Christie novel and is included with the Interrail Pass. You could catch this one way, and hop on another train coming back again.
- GoldenPass Panoramic – The other train that plies the Montreux to Zweisimmen route is the GoldenPass Panoramic. This has windows that extend to the roof, with a couple more on the roof for good measure. These give wonderful views up the mountainside and across the valley of the journey. Combine these two trains and you have a great day out for free! (Bear in mind that these can get booked up in peak season so it might be worth paying the small reservation fee to guarantee a window if you really want one).
- The Bernina Express Line – Travelling on the actual Bernina Express will cost you a reservation fee, and it is a little steep. However, you can travel the same route (around the famous Brusio spiral viaduct) on local trains for nothing. Just ensure you have a Global Pass if you intend on travelling to Italy. If you only have the Swiss Country Pass, disembark in Campocologno.
- The Glacier Express – OK, OK, so this isn’t cheap, even with an Interrail Pass BUT you are going to save money if you have one. To ride on this iconic train, you’ll just need to pay the reservation fee. The ticket price goes up dramatically the further you travel but the reservation doesn’t so you can travel from St Moritz to Zermatt for just 49CHF or just do the short trip from Brig for 39CHF.
City Cards 1

When checking into hotels in much of Switzerland, you will be given a city card or region card for the duration of your stay. This can give you access to local travel. This is a great addition to your Interrail ticket because that doesn’t include teams, buses etc. For example, if you’re staying in Bern, Lucerne, Basel, Geneva or Lausanne, you get to use local public transport for free.

In Ticino, that’s Lugano and around, not only does it cover the local buses but gives you a discount on the cable cars, funiculars and boats in the region.

Take Advantage of Free Bike Rental

If you’re visiting Zurich, Bern, Geneva, Neuchâtel, Zug or Valais, then check out their free bike schemes. You can zip around town for free on pushbikes or e-bikes depending on your preference. Push bikes in Valais cost nothing for the first four hours so you could even take these for a scenic ride into the countryside. E-bikes and mountain bikes, however, start to charge after just one hour. The bike rental spots in Geneva, run by Genèveroule, require a cash deposit and an ID so make sure you have these to hand.

Take a Hike

One of the best ways to get around for free is to go on a big walk. Luckily, Switzerland is full of incredible hikes through stunning scenery. Use google or your hostel/hotel reception for advice on the best walks in the area you are staying in. To be honest, we didn’t do any hiking as it was unseasonably rainy, but we definitely plan to return and hit the hills!

How to Save Money on Food in Switzerland

Download Too Good to Go

Too Good to Go is an app created to help reduce food waste, which is great, but it isn’t why e love it. For between 6 and 8 CHF, you can get enough food to fill up. The idea is that supermarkets, bakeries an restaurants send their. Fresh food either at the end of the day, or sometimes, at lunch. Launch the app and search for places around you that are offering food. Pay for it and go and pick it up at the allotted time. You can find baked goods, groceries that will end some proper cooing, things from the ready to eat fridges or even hot food from restaurants. In Switzerland, we had great big hot meals from the Migros hot counters and ready to eat cold food from Coop. Nothing cost us more than 7CHF, which is astonishing when the cheapest main meal we could find in the sit down restaurant was 16CHF.

Cook Dinner for Yourself

The cheapest way to eat in Switzerland is to cook for yourself. This does rely on you having a kitchen in your accommodation, and most hotels will have one. At our hostel in Interlaken, there were lots of Korean travellers that cooked up a multi course feast in the kitchen every night. It was very impressive. We managed to boil up lots of pasta that worked for dinner hot and lunch the next day cold. (Don’t forget your Tupperware…silicone folding if possible to save space). Look out for Migros and Co op. Buying a loaf of bread, a block of cheese and a big packet of crisps is going to be cheap, cheerful and can make a few sandwich lunches. Look for red stickers for discounted food with best before dates that day.

For more Interrail packing ideas, check out our full Interrail packing list here.

Opt For the Lunch Menu

If you fancy eating out in a restaurant then make it a lunchtime treat. Many popular restaurants have a plat du jour (dish of the day) which will be much better value than their dinner offerings. You are still looking at 25 – 30 CHF but that could be half the price of dinner. It is also much cheaper to eat the vegetarian option. It can be a whole third cheaper.

Scout Out Deals Near Universities

If there is a university or college in the place you are visiting then there is likely to be a few good meal deals around the area. Take a stroll in the district and see if you can uncover any bargains. Restaurants that serve international food tend to be a little cheaper so keep your eyes peeled for Thai, Chinese and Italian options. If all else fails, find a place to fill up on chips.

Enjoy the Free Tap Water

Tap water is safe to drink, and delicious, throughout Switzerland so ask for a jug when you eat out. This saves you from having to swig from your water bottle in the middle of the dining room. In German, ask for “Leitungswasser., In French, it’s “une carafe d’eau”.

You will also find free water fountains in plenty of Swiss towns, Zurich especially. You are safe to just fill up your water bottle for free drinks all day. We like to have squash drops to liven up the water on long days out.

Service is Included

Don’t forget that it is not mandatory to tip in Switzerland. On a large bill it is typical to round up a couple of Swiss Francs but the service charge is already built into the price of the food. TThis can feel uncomfortable when you are used to tipping 10-20% but it is totally fine to just pay the amount on the bill and leave.

How to Save Money on Accommodation in Switzerland

Visit in Shoulder Season

Switzerland has two major tourist seasons, winter and summer. The low seasons, or shoulder seasons, fall in spring and autumn. If you visit outside of the high seasons then you have a better chance of finding cheap accommodation. Just bear in mind that some places shut for a month in April and October so if you have your heart set on a certain hotel, this might not be an option.

Try Hostels

Don’t let the word hostel scare you. Swiss hostels are clean and excellently run. Many have private rooms and are more like a hotel than you might imagine. As well as having good value rooms, you will also find laundry rooms that are cheap or free to use, games rooms for free entertainment and well equipped kitchens for preparing your own meals. Most also include some sort of breakfast too. Of course, if you are happy to share dorm rooms, you will save a bundle of cash! Just bear in mind that some dorm beds don’t include bed linen or towels so you’ll need to bring these yourself.

We stayed in an excellent hostel in Interlaken, see the full review here.

Find a Good AirBnB

AirBnB has been the budget travellers’ friend for a few years now, and although hiring whole apartments or houses can still be very expensive, booking a room in someone’s house is still a great budget option. In towns like Zermatt, you can find rooms with postcard views for much less than nearby hotels but these still aren’t what we would call cheap.

Hashtag Van Life

Of course, if you are Interrailing Switzerland, you might just want to take the train, but if you have limited travel days you might consider getting a camper van.

Transport and accommodation rolled into one, the camper van is another brilliant option. Many campsites are cheap to stay in and provide electrical hookups etc. for much less than a hotel room. Of course you need a driver’s license and the constitution to deal with your own toilet clearing but it does allow you to drive to some stunning places on your own schedule and take your bed with you. Do bear in mind that wild camping is illegal so you will need to park at a registered campsite.

Stay Off the Beaten Track

Staying in Zurich, Interlaken and Geneva is going to cost you more than in small nearby towns. The advantage of having your Interrail ticket is that you can reach these famous spots quickly and easily by train. You might not need to stay in these big cities at all. Accommodation in smaller towns is significantly cheaper so if you don’t mind the commute, you could save a fair whack.

How to Save Money on Activities in Switzerland

Interrail Freebies and Discounts

Interrail doesn’t just cover your train journeys, it can also provide some other fun, free activities. For example, if you’re visiting Interlaken, your Interrail Pass provides free boat trips on both Lake Thun and Lake Brienz. You can take these two hour boats to some seriously beautiful spots which is a fun day out for nothing,

You will also find a few discounts on funiculars or special trains across Switzerland like 25% off on the Jungfrau railway up to the Top of Europ e.

Guest Cards 2

Some of the guest cards you receive from your accommodation (hotels and hostels) will offer more discounts on funiculars or cable cars in the region or local area. Interlaken’s includes a free walking tour, free or discounted entry to nearby museums and free entry to a local swimming pool and mini golf. Others across Switzerland have museum discounts (up to 50%), discounts on the numerous funiculars and cable cars that are everywhere in Switzerland and even the odd discount in a cafe so it’s worth checking them out for each area you are staying in.

Free Walking Tours

As with most of Europe, you can find decent walking tours in many of Switzerland’s main towns. Of course, these are not totally free as it is encouraged to tip the guides (they are guiding for tips) but compared to a paid tour, where you may also want to tip, they are decent value. Companies like Free Walking Tours Switzerland offer tours across the country.

Final Thoughts on Interrailing Switzerland on a Budget

Let’s be honest Interrailing Switzerland on a budget is hard work, and it can get a bit tedious. But if it allows you to travel for longer, it is definitely worth it. Unlike many countries, the beauty of Switzerland doesn’t lie in the big cities. So getting out into nature with a hunk of bread and some cheese really is the best way to spend your time.

Rosie xx
31/08/2023
Reaching the Top of Europe – Jungfraujoch with Best of Switzerland Tours

When researching Switzerland, there is a huge bucket list of places to visit and things to do. When I learned about Jungfraujoch it leapt straight to the top of mine! Of course, on a train adventure, we had to visit the highest train station in Europe. We are happy independent travellers but sometimes, it is nice to have the extra layer of information, care and simplicity that a tour offers so we decided to travel as part of a group, with Best of Switzerland Tours. Join us as we go up, into the clouds to the Top of Europe, Jungfraujoch.

This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

Best of Switzerland Tours

When debating our options within Switzerland, we were taken with Best of Switzerland Tours. They have over 20 years of experience, have multilingual guides and offered just the itineraries I was thinking of. It was a no-brainer. For our Jungfraujoch tour, we had arranged to be picked up in Interlaken and then to travel all the way to Zürich with Best of Switzerland Tours that evening. This is always such a great way to move from one spot to another so check to see if they do multiple pick ups or drop offs on your chosen tour. The large coaches have room for bags underneath so no drama!

Pick Up in Grindelwald

All of the Best of Switzerland Tours adventures start from the front of the Interlaken Outdoor Shop. There were a couple of seats but we all huddled when it started drizzling. Luckily, it didn’t last too long and our guide took us around the back to the car park. We passed our big bags over to the driver and then head up the coach stairs to find some seats on the top deck. This gave us super views as the bus wound its way through the valley to gorgeous Grindelwald. Along the way, we had some interesting commentary and important information from our guide, Regula over the coach’s loudspeaker.

The Eiger Express

We were given a short bathroom break after everyone disembarked from the coach and then we all gathered together, ready to board the Eiger Express. To reach the first stop, Eigergletscher (Eiger Glacier) everybody used to take the train but in December 2020 a huge new cable car opened. This lovely, modern cable car whisks you up in just 15 minute whilst affording some rather nice views.

The group had their tickets handed out and we were all told emphatically not to lose them. These tickets aren’t cheap and if you lose it, you are paying your own way back down! We scanned through the ticket barriers and divided into two gondolas. We all had a great view as the cable car whooshed out of the station and over the lush green fields of the Bernese Oberland.

About five minutes into the ride, we rose into the clouds and rain. Drops gently caught the windows and the photographers of the group started to look nervous as they tried to capture the evergreen forests below. Just two minutes after, however, we had bypassed the rainy spot and instead emerged into a world of white snow and dark rock. The beautiful icy vistas continued until we piled out at our second station stop.

Eigergletscher Station – 2,320 m

We had a short break once again to explore Eigergletscher Station or run for a wee. We wandered out onto the snowy plateau, excited to see the snow falling but sad that it was whiting out lots of the view. There were some people up there that had never seen snow before and watching the children, especially, discovering the joys and chilly wetness of it was so much fun. I wonder how many people have had their first experience of snow here in the last 125 years.

Of course, I dropped and nearly lost my important ticket and so had a quick rethink about where I kept it.

Jungfrau Cogwheel Railway

Once back together, the group took the escalator down to the platform for the iconic cogwheel railway. We were all given a pretend Swiss passport which had loads of info about Jungfraujoch and a space to get it stamped at the top. We decided to have a quick flick through it on the train ride.

The cogwheel railway has been running for over a hundred years and has two tracks. This one took us up and then we hopped on the other to come the other way. The cogwheel (or rack) railway works by combing a toothed wheel and a grooved middle rail. It makes a rather unique noise as it sets off and rattles its way up the hill. Well, actually it is through the hill. This railway actually travels steeply through the mountain in a long tunnel. There isn’t much of a view but it is very novel.

Halfway up is a stop that it usually pauses at, we were told that we were not going to be stopping there but soon, the plan changed and we found we were actually going to get the chance to see Eismeer Station.

Eismeer Station – 3,159 m

The main idea of Eismeer is to give everyone a view of Ischmeer (Ice Sea). We weren’t so lucky. Everyone rushed off the train, with calls of, “Only five minutes” ringing in our ears. Sadly, the fog/cloud had completely obscured any view and it was like the blinds were shut on the other side of the glass. We giggled at our bad fortune, took a photo or two and ran back to the train.

No, this isn’t a broken picture…this was the view

So excited

Touching the Top of Europe, Jungfraujoch – 3454 m

The next station was the big one, Jungfraujoch! The whole train emptied out, everyone following their respective tour guides. Regula took us straight through the cafe, explaining that we would be meeting back there and the specified time. Half of our group didn’t seem to be listening so I was curious to see how that would go.

Jungfraujoch – The Sphinx

Our first stop was a group trip up The Sphinx. This rocky overlook holds the name of The Sphinx, as does the astronomical observatory on top. The public can head out onto the open metal platform and take in the view of the three main mountain peaks visible from here; Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau. At least, that was what we were hoping for but we were greeted by a wall of grey. Tourists stood around taking photos of each other against the dull backdrop and of the Sphinx building, the only visible landmark. We did the same but when t started snowing, decided to duck back inside for the indoor activities on offer. (After scoffing our pretty poor packed lunch and waiting for our feet to warm up).

Another stunning view

Catching snowflakes

Jungfraujoch – The Alpine Sensation Exhibition

The group dispersed as some decided to go through the exhibition and others bypassed it. We wanted to see as much as possible so we head on in. This was a fun museum detailing the building of the railway and Jungfraujoch. I loved the section all about the old hotel which once stood up here that sadly, burned down. It would have been phenomenal to stay up here. Mr Fluskey particularly loved all the old black-and-white photos of the construction years with workers and their families looking so smart. We thought that the moving walkway was a nice touch for those that struggle with mobility but we walked back to take a longer look at the exhibits.

Jungfraujoch – The Ice Palace

I had seen photos of the ice tunnel that forms the entrance of the Ice Palace but I never knew the whole thing was frozen!? I guess it makes sense as this has been carved inside the glacier. Everyone half walks, half ice skates along the thin ice tunnel, giggling and trying to skid whilst hanging onto the railing for dear life. It was great fun. We traversed this corridor before arriving at an ice museum. There were some really cool ice carvings and we made ourselves laugh far too hard at the ice bar, (no vodka on offer here though). Sadly, Mr Fluskey’s boots were so good at gripping that he couldn’t skate very well, whereas I loved slipping and sliding through the attraction.

Jungfraujoch – The Plateau

We head up three floors and felt a cold wind blowing in. This was the exit to the Plateau. The snow was whipping in and it was a steep little climb out to the wide section of exposed mountain. We saw everyone taking photos over by a big Swiss flag so of course we went and waited our turn. As we did, the snow stopped and it began to brighten up a little.

As the sky was a little brighter we walked past this mildly cleared section and found knee-deep, untouched snow. It was really tempting to make snow angels but it seemed like a bad plan with no change of clothes. I nearly fell face forward into the drifts as we struggled across. Then, all of a sudden, a cloud shifted, the sun broke through and we could see the mountain peak behind, edged by blue sky. I mildly freaked out with excitement. Finally, a view…and it lasted for three whole minutes. We made our way back down the slope slowly and carefully, deciding to head back up the Spinx just incase we had another glimpse of sky.

Jungfraujoch – Lindt Swiss Chocolate Heaven

The Lindt shop is the highest in the world and so we couldn’t skip it completely but we did rather rush through it. There were two rooms, one which seemed like a little museum and then a smaller, very, very busy shop stuffed with delicious Lindt chocolate. We dashed through, mouths watering and thank goodness we did because, on the way out, an extremely kind cashier gave us a Lindt ball each. After our dry sandwich lunch, this was a real treat.

Jungfraujoch – The Sphinx 2 (Electric Boogaloo)

We stormed back down the stairs and up the long stone corridor to the Sphinx lift. I could see sunshine as the door opened and ran to the door for the outdoors. There, still hazy but distinctly visible compared to before was one of the three peaks. It was so crazy to see what that grey cloud was hiding, majestic mountains covered in pretty snow. I was far too happy! Soon enough the peak disappeared again but as the clear spot travelled across the mountains, the other peaks made their own cameo in our day. All in all, we got about ten minutes of glorious sunshine and stunning views. I am so, so glad we made our mad dash.

Jungfraujoch – The Cafe

As the cloud moved in again, we checked our watches and realised we had about 30 minutes left before the meeting time. We decided to go down to the cafe, wait and warm up. Plus, if they had some sort of delicious boozy hot chocolate to sip while we waited, I was all for it. Sadly there was no Baileys hot choccy to be had but we did find a nice table by the window. I was a little tempted by the schnapps but thought better of it. Giving up on the view, we stamped our pretend passports and waited for our group to appear. At the meeting time, Regula, our guide, and two other people had gathered. She gave everyone five more minutes but the train was leaving whether they were there or not so off we went.

The Cogwheel 2 – The Descent

Everybody ran and managed to make the train in time and we all settled in for our cogwheel journey downhill. We had a nice chat with some fellow group members who had discovered a bar. It was out by the area with the adventure sports. I was a little jealous but just at that moment, a lovely train conductor came through and gave us all a little Lindt chocolate bar. Two free choccies in one day!

The Final Train

The train came out of the tunnel and into a flurry of snowflakes. The snow we’d seen thus far was light and small but this was real snow, falling in big, insistent flakes. We had a 20 minute change at Kleine Scheldegg and everyone crammed into the warm, dry ticket office.

The final train of the day took us back into the world of green grass and tourist accommodation. We chugged down the sides of steep slopes through open-sided concrete tunnels and under ski slopes. Train wound down towards and around the car-free village of Wengen where the train filled up with people on their own day trips. The final leg took us through the beautiful town of Lauterbrunnen and its iconic waterfalls. We didn’t actually have any time to sightsee here so i was really glad we saw it the day before.

The Coach to Zürich

Everyone walked straight from the train station to the coach park where I ran for a bathroom stop and then back to the coach. We settled into our red leather seats, plugged in our phones and prepared for a comfy three-hour ride to Zürich. We picked the wrong side for the nice views but caught a few pretty vistas. Mr Fluskey slept for quite a bit of the way but just as my eyes started closing, we got some commentary about Zürich. I perked up as it meant Zürich was approaching and we were soon driving through the city streets. We pulled into the main bus station and grabbed our bags, ready for the fifteen-minute walk to Krone Zurich Pop Up Hostel.

Final Thoughts for Our Day at the Top of Europe, Jungfraujoch with Best of Switzerland Tours

This day tour was a long day but it flew by and I loved nearly all of it. Of course, I was very disappointed when I thought that we wouldn’t see anything but the pure serotonin hit when the sun came out was divine. I wonder if we had still been up there if we hadn’t been on Best of Switzerland’s timeline? Either way, it was really nice to relax and be guided for the day after organising a month of interrailing. Leave the logistics to someone else and take it all in!

I can’t help it, I am a bit of a box ticker when it comes to Europe and I just couldn’t leave Switzerland without seeing the top of Europe, Jungfraujoch. Next stop, Tanggula Mountain Railway Station (the highest train station in the whole world).

Rosie xx

04/07/2023
Riding the Rails – Montreux to Interlaken GoldenPass Express Prestige Class Review

The train line that runs between Montreux and Interlaken is one of the most popular tourist routes in Switzerland. There have been some lovely trains that travel between these two spots but, until very recently, travellers have had to change trains at Zweisimmen. However, there is a new kid in town with a rather neat party trick, allowing you to travel in comfort the whole way. Plus, it is one of the most comfortable train rides in the world! Read on for our full GoldenPass Express Prestige Class review.

This post may contain sponsored content or affiliate links that help support the blog. All opinions are our own.

Tickets

Our journey was booked by MOB but if we wanted to use our 1st class Interrail passes, we would have had to pay CHF20 for the seat reservations and then CHF15 for the Prestige supplement. That’s just £35 for the extra exclusivity and comfort. This is quite the bargain in my opinion.

You can book your reservation ahead of the two-month ticket sales so get straight on that as soon as you decide to take the train, especially if you are coming in high season. You can pick your perfect seats and then grab the ticket if you need one when those bookings open. Not many people know this so you will beat the rush.

Boarding at Montreux

We thought we were arriving at the station nice and early, turning up 20 minutes in advance. However, we quickly realised that everyone else had already boarded! We dropped our bags inside the train and then took a few quick snaps of the gorgeous blue and gold exterior. After making a couple of reels and laughing at the name of the carraige (Shania Train) we settled into our lovely, comfortable Prestige Class seats.

The GoldenPass Express Prestige Class Carriage

Prestige Class was a small section at the back of the train, separated from first class by a couple of steps and an opaque glass partition. I believe this is the front of the train when it travels in the other direction as there is a driver’s cab in there too. The elevated section gives a wonderful view of the landscape as it has a higher vantage. Above the big, wide windows was a panorama window to see up to the sky. In the UK, this wouldn’t be worth it, but when you are passing through glorious valleys with mountains, it is such a treat for everyone to see the top!

The Seats

The creamy beige leather seats feel very luxurious and as we settled in we got very excited about all of the options they offered. There were buttons galore and the seats were very adjustable, giving everyone the most comfortable ride from individual to individual. On the controls, we could change the footrest, lumbar support or recline. We fiddled with buttons, giggling with delight. It will never get old to sit in a seat as it whirs to life and pokes you in the back. Oh, and it is also heated for those winter journeys. In the armrests were our little tray tables and between our chairs we each had a AC plug and a USB plug too.

The perfectly adjusted seat with its super comfortable cushioning and giant headrest was so delilously comfortable. I was tempted to curl up and have a nap but just didn’t want to miss the view.

There are several videos on social media that make it look like you can swivel the seats so you can stare straight out of the window. However, this is not actually the case. The chairs can be swung around but only lock in when facing forwards or backwards.

Petit Déjeuner

Very soon after we departed, the person in charge of our carriage came to check who had ordered breakfast. It was just us and one other couple and we all had a basket presented to us. along with a coffee. The croissant was great but we were rather full from our hotel breakfast (bad planning on our part) so we saved one for later. I was impressed at how nice the coffee was too, expecting instant but it seemed pressed.

The View

The most important thing of our GoldenPass Express Prestige Class review is the spectacular views! Great vistas are afforded to travellers on the hill that winds its way up from Montreux. The sparkling lake backed by green hills has everybody glued to the windows and, as the train makes several turns, both sides get a great view. Through a tunnel and you emerge in a green valley with snow-capped mountains above. It is Swiss perfection. (Mind you, if the clouds decide to smother them, you won’t need them quite so much).

This is the Vaud Alps and the train winds around the hills before the scenery levels out. It then begins to pass through the villages and along the rivers of Bernese Oberland. It really doesn’t get old and the last section runs along Lake Thun, one of the two linked by Interlaken. If you’re more organised than us, you can spot Gstaad Palace as you turn out of town after the station. We were so busy discussing our lunch that we totally forgot to snap it.

Déjeuner

Very soon after breakfast was taken away, we were given our lunch! We had a planchette of cheese, cured meats, some pretzel-style bread and a lovely glass of wine. We were already pretty full but everything was so tasty that we just kept eating. The wine was a quintessential Swiss white that paired with the cheese perfectly. The lovely lady looking after us said that it would be ideal if we could finish by the next stop. We tried our best but couldn’t drink all of the wine in time. She took away the slates and then we were surprised to see her on the platform at the next stop as we chugged away and left her behind.

The Change

Now, one of the things we were most looking forward to was the magical track change. It is the big GoldenPass Express party trick, meaning that in theory, we could travel all the way to Interlaken. This means you keep your super comfy seat, leave your luggage untouched and not have to face the Swiss weather. The wheels slowly change to fit the next section of track which has a different gauge to the section between Montreux and Interlaken. That’s a change from 1000 to 1435 mm in seconds without stopping. Its a world first and still truly fascinating.

However, due to issues on the track, we had to change to another train. We all scrambled to find new seats, with first class rather less plush than the Prestige Class we’d left behind. It all made sense. That was why we had to finish all of our food so quickly; the new train didn’t have such provisions. It was a real disappointment as we were really looking forward to experiencing the bogies adjusting but it sounded like there was an issue with the track.

Arriving in Interlaken

We were so happy to see the sunshine when we disembarked at Interlaken Ost. Everyone spilled out from the station and our hostel was just a ten-minute walk. The blue sky, pretty flowers and hills rising up around Interlaken made it the perfect welcome.

Final Thoughts for Our GoldenPass Express Prestige Class Review

Having tried all three trains that run along this line, we both agreed that the GoldenPass Express was the most comfortable and Prestige Class felt so luxurious. The cabin’s 9 seats were full but it still felt exclusive. Let’s face it, sipping a crisp white wine as the world slips by will always be a winner! In a country that does train travel so very well, and with some of the world’s most iconic routes, this is a crowning jewel in the Swiss train crown.

Rosie xx

13/06/2023
10 Tips for Taking the Caledonian Sleeper Train to Scotland

Taking a sleeper train can be convenient and fun but it takes a few nights and some top tips to learn how to make it easier and more comfortable. Although I have a brain full of general tips for night trains, this article is all about specific tips for taking the Caledonian Sleeper train to Scotland.

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02/06/2022
Riding the Rails – Caledonian Sleeper Review, Edinburgh to London

Travelling between Edinburgh and London, travellers have a wide variety of options. They can whizz down on a high-speed train in just four hours, zoom down on a short-haul flight or even drive in a day. However, there is no mode of transport so exciting as the final option, the night train. So what is it like onboard? Join us for our Edinburgh to London Caledonian Sleeper review.

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01/06/2022
A Bed in Glenfinnan – Glenfinnan Sleeping Car Review

Here at Flying Fluskey, we love an overnight train. It’s no secret (just check out our train reviews). However, let’s be real, it is never an amazing night’s sleep. The rocking of the train, the squeal of its breaks, the movements of fellow passengers as they board and disembark, these all disturb slumber. So what is the solution? Enjoying a night in a stationary sleeping car perhaps? Find out in our Glenfinnan Sleeping Car review.

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10/07/2021
Riding the Rails – Taking The Night Train from Yangon to Bagan
There are several ways to travel from Yangon to Bagan in Burma (Myanmar). Some people choose to fly. Others, on a tighter budget, book nighttime buses. We just HAD to try out the train! I know what you’re thinking, “Another train story”? …Well, if you insist! Join us on the night train from Yangon to Bagan.

We love a train ride! Check out our other Riding the Rails blog posts here.

Buying Tickets for the Train from Yangon to Bagan

After a little research, and trawling The Man in Seat 61, we found the 12go Asia website. We had never used this website before but it seemed to have all sorts of transport on there and great reviews.

We put in our request for tickets and during the process, were given the option to refuse lower bunks, take a different train and a few other options. Great stuff! Train tickets in Myanmar aren’t released until close to the departure date so we put in our preferred date and crossed our fingers.

Top Tip: There are a few different classes of travel, from hard wooden seats, to full padded sleepers. For the flat beds, you will want to book Upper Class Sleeper.

Picking Up the Tickets

The day before we were due to travel, our booking was confirmed. Yangon to Bagan, on the sleeper train, in seats A1 and A2. Perfect. All we had to do then was pop to their office in Yangon to swap the tickets. We had booked at Rangoon Boutique Hostel, just around the corner from the shop and the station so this took no time…once we had found it.

Top Tip: It worth noting that the office (EPG Travel) isn’t too easy to find. To pick up your tickets, look for the True Coffee shop and just to the right there is a slope leading into the condominium. Walk down the slope and around to the left, you will find a lift. That will take you up to the fifth floor where you’ll find the EPG Travel offices to your left

Boarding the Night Train to Bagan

When we arrived at Yangon Central Station (a ten minute walk from the office, our tickets were checked and we were directed to platform three. We walked down the platform, past the waiting throngs, and back through a gate. More helpful guards pointed out the bridge crossing and we lumbered over.

It was easy enough to find our carriage as gangs of children dashed over to show us the way. They held cold water and snacks, and once we were in our section, they darted in and out to try and make a sale. One girl spent quite a long time trying to convince us to buy water, then played on my phone for a bit.

What is Like On Board a Sleeper Train in Myanmar? – The Practical Stuff

The Carriage

Our sleeper compartment slept four in an unusual configuration. There was no adjoining corridor connecting all of the compartments, instead, we were totally isolated from the rest of the train. It was good not to have people bumping into us but I was hoping to take a wander through the carriages and meet some people. I could have changed carriages at one of the stops but didn’t quite have the guts.

Our roommates were a french couple who were pleasant enough but not so chatty. For a while, we thought they didn’t speak English but it turned out, they were pretty fluent.

The Hygiene

I am not a clean freak by any means but this night train from Yangon to Bagan was pretty mucky. The general carriage interior was very dusty. I guess that is only to be expected with open windows. However, the bathroom and other side room were both filthy. I found myself craving the odd antibacterial wipe.

The Seats

PROS
- Each passenger has two seats to themselves meaning we all got a nice view out of the window.
- The covers reminded me of 1990s Network Rail.
- The seats could be reclined a little.
- There was a ton of legroom.
- There was a table between the seats for dinner time.
CONS
- The covers were old and ripped.
- The padding was OK, but not quite comfy enough for the level of bouncing we did.
The Fixtures And Fittings

Our carriage had a small luggage rack between the two upper bunks but this was only used for rubbish and food bags. Also on the ceiling, there was a small fan. We were thankful for this when we first boarded but it was quickly shut off when the evening took hold.

The windows could be closed which was a relief when the temperature dropped. There were also wooden shutters along with the light green curtains to block out the flashing lights of the world outside passing by. The shutters were quite heavy but once you got the hang of them, they were easy enough to open and close.

The Bathroom

As mentioned, this little room was less than pristine. It seemed coated in years of dust and dirt rather than freshly grimy. Changing in there was rather unpleasant. As the train bucked underneath me, I reached for the wall and then regretted it a little.

The toilet was a metal drop loo, like the kind found on Indian trains. Below, the tracks were clearly visible as they whizzed below. To flush, there was a small hose (bum gun). No toilet roll was provided.

The sink drained onto the floor so I used the hose to wash my hands directly down the loo instead, trying to maintain the dry floor.

What is Like On Board a Night Train in Myanmar? – The Experience

“Strap yourselves on folks, it’s going to be a bumpy ride”.

The Tracks

The train began to rock and queasy thoughts of seasickness crossed my mind. Can you throw up out the window of a train without losing your head? I really didn’t fancy using the toilet that we all had to share. As it didn’t flush with water, it would have been a very messy business. Luckily, the sideways rocking only happened occasionally, and wasn’t bad enough to induce any sickness.

I was expecting bumps, and had even heard rumours of frequent derailments. It was as I thought. We bounced our way through the Burmese countryside and rattled across railway crossings. Children waved and we waved frantically back.

Mickey

I said before that there were four of us sharing the cabin…that wasn’t quite true. The fifth member of our travelling gang was a small, light grey mouse. He only made a few appearances but one of them was on the french couple’s chair. I’m not scared of mice but I am not a fan of waking up to one scampering across my face and that was on mind all through the night.

Top Tip: Tie food bags to the luggage rack between the beds.

Dinner Time

As night fell, the waiter knocked and handed us two polystyrene boxes. One was full of the fried rice we had ordered from him a little earlier, and the other containing questionable looking chicken. A memory of the misunderstanding between Mr Fluskey and the waiter popped up. Oh yes, he had put two fingers up, and called it, “Fried rice, and chicken”, not chicken fried rice.

We wolfed down the rice (oily but inoffensive) but didn’t know what to do about the chicken, so we hid it in the room at the end of the carriage in the hopes it may lure Mickey away from the sleeping area.

Bedtime

Everyone made nighttime stirrings, closing the curtains and shutters on the windows, putting sheets on the bed, and the whole pantomime show of big, fake yawns.

As I settled into my “bed”, I realised just how uncomfortable it was. The metal casings of the chairs could be clearly felt by a hipbone. The chairs tipped away from the centre meaning my head was tipped back at a strange angle. Oh, and there was no blanket. I don’t know whether they forgot to give us one or if that is standard but we only had one sheet, and a pillow.

The Fridge

The cold began to creep in. At first it wasn’t too bad, but as the night progressed I put on more and more clothes to try and combat the chill. By morning, I was in:
- my pyjamas,
- a cardigan,
- a maxi dress,
- a down jacket,
- two pairs of socks
- sleeping under a scarf
….and I was still covered in goose pimples and desperate for the sun to heat up the carriage.

Top Tip: BRING A BLANKET, A SLEEPING BAG OR SEVENTY MILLION LAYERS

I know this logo on the sheet stands for Myanmar Railways….but it totally says Mr Boobs!

The Sleep

It was a combination of the constant, violent movement, and arctic conditions (ok, that is a touch hyperbolic) that meant I was awake all night. It should have been called the “not-so-much-sleep-er-train”. Still, I didn’t manage to binge-watch the entire first series of Sex Education on Netflix so you know, every cloud!

Morning Time

At 7:20, we had a knock on the door

“Hello!”

I was in a weird daze, thinking the night would never end and so I didn’t really clock that this was real.

“Hellooooo”

This was accompanied by a loud knock on the window that made myself and my french companions jump out of our skins. The waiter was back with their breakfast so it officially time to reset our seats and give up on sleep.

All except for Mr Fluskey who was finally getting some rest so I left him to it.

Arriving in Bagan by Train

The night train from Yangon to Bagan was due to arrive at 09:30, and as this time approached I gave Mr Fluskey a little shake to get him up and off his bunk. I knew we were running late but not sure exactly by how much. The train slowly crawled towards Bagan, stopping at red signals on the single track.

The train pulled into Bagan at 10:50, only an hour and twenty minutes later than scheduled. Considering the swathes of reports I had read that said they were often hours and hours late, this wasn’t too bad.

Getting to Nyaung-U from Bagan Train Station

Taxi drivers and tuk-tuk drivers descended upon the tourists on the train platform. We agreed to a taxi into town for 8000 MMK (around £4) which may have been slightly too much but we were SO tired that we just wanted to get to a real bed. If you good at haggling, 6000 MMK should be manageable.

Shared pickup trucks ply the main road a short walk from the front of the station. We believe they take people into Nyuang-U but not being on a tight budget, we didn’t investigate fully.

The taxi stopped at a checkpoint and we paid for our Bagan Tourist Ticket. They took our photo (after no sleep, that was mean). This tickets covers tourists for the whole Bagan area for a week but in reality it is checked rarely. We had two checks out of about fifty pagodas. Still, we did see people having to pay during one these checks so I wouldn’t skip it.

Information for Taking the Night Train to Bagan from Yangon

If you are thinking of taking the night train, here are a few things you might like to know:
- Tickets are available four days before the date of travel. If you are in Yangon, you can go and purchase them yourself but get there quickly as the sleepers can sell out.
- 12Go Asia is a good option for those that either won’t be in town when tickets are released or just don’t fancy the effort of getting the station etc
- Rangoon Boutique House is a good budget hostel close to both the 12Go Asia offices and the station.
- For those on a swankier budget, check out Zealax Hotel and Residence. It is not near the station at all, but was rather lovely and they can organise a transfer.
When you’re ready to leave Bagan, check out How to Travel Bagan to Mandalay by Boat on an Irrawaddy Cruise

Final Thoughts on the Night Train from Yangon to Bagan

I am so conflicted about our night train from Yangon to Bagan. I am glad we tried it but regret bitterly that we didn’t have any kind of blanket. Whether that is their fault for not giving us one or ours for not bringing one, I am not sure. Either way, I was bloody freezing and wouldn’t choose to repeat the experience in a hurry.

I am wondering whether a day time train trip would have been a better plan than the sleeper train from Yangon to Bagan, then there wouldn’t have been that terrible attempt at sleep, and we would have been warm. The run between Mandalay and Hsipaw, passing over the infamous Goteik Viaduct is meant to be a lovely journey. Maybe we should try that one next time eh!?

Rosie xx
20/02/2020
Trans-Siberian Reflections – The Good, The Bad and The Yummy
Trans-Siberian Reflections in Ostankino TV Tower, Moscow

Our total fail in Harbin aside, in early 2019 Mr Fluskey and I travelled the length of Asia by train over almost three weeks. We managed 4770 miles on the tracks! At the very start of our journey, on our flight to Shanghai, we had watched the map on the monitors, wondering what the landscape below had in store for us. Even at 39,000 feet it seemed to take forever to pass over Russia, but somehow we crossed quite a sizeable chunk of it by train…in January! (And I didn’t freeze to death!) We wanted to look back over our whole adventure, so let us share some Trans-Siberian reflections:

Thinking of planning your own Trans-Siberian travels? Check our post all about planning a Trans-Siberian trip, including our top ten tips!

The Good – Our Ten Trans-Siberian Reflections High Points

I’m not going to lie, this whole trip was pretty amazing. It has been so nice to relive it by blogging my way through it, but I didn’t get to tell you everything that happened and these highlights deserve to be shared:

1.) Incredible Timing….After Terrible Timing

So, after missing our train in China (more about that fail further down the list) we returned to our hostel and began to investigate alternative routes into Russia. It was with crazy luck, the flight between Harbin (China) and Irkutsk (Siberia) left the next morning. This flight on a rather tiny plane, only flies once a week and we were so fortunate to snag what seemed to be the last two seats.

Fluky Fluskeys eh!?

2.) Actually Enjoying Winter Sports

Barrelling through the snow on a dogsled in Lake Baikal was my kind of winter sport. I say, legs stuck out in front of me, bouncing and giggling. It was mildly adrenaline fuelled, involved almost zero effort from me, and they lent us huge boots and beautifully padded jumpsuits. The best thing was to finally be interacting with the landscape that had been on the other side of the train window. Read all about it here.

3.) Ice, Ice Baby

Harbin Ice and snow festival, in northeast China, was a complete marvel. I had seen pictures of its giant ice structures, I had read that they were life-sized, but I’m not sure I truly believed it until I saw the entrance gate looming above us. As the sunset, the lights inside the immense glass-like structures were turned on and the incredibly gaudy colours shone across the site.

Read our ultimate guide to the Harbin snow and ice festival here

We were SO lucky with the weather. -10°C may not sound warm, but when you realise that this is 10-15°C warmer than the seasonal average, it doesn’t seem so bad. It meant that we could stay at the festival for a good amount of time, only feeling the serious sting of cold towards the end of the evening.

The next day, the clouds cleared and we had a bright blue sky, contrasting beautifully with dazzling white snow sculptures. It was everything I had dreamed it would be, and really quite a lot more!

4.) …More Ice, Ice Baby

On a day trip from the Russian university city of Perm, we explored the glittering caves of ice in Kungur. We have been through a fair number of caves, but I’ve never seen them lined with glitter before. I don’t know what I was expecting but there was a lot to see down there, and it was weird to feel like 0°C was warm! Check out the whole blog post see all those surprises.

Can you see the sparkles?

5.) A Dessert-esque Cathedral

Saint Basil’s Cathedral was so beautifully colourful inside and out, like an ice cream sundae laden with E-numbers. Even though it wasn’t actually the end of our journey, it felt like the spiritual end. It is always the first image that springs to mind when I think of Russia and its iconic towers held more treasures than I knew. Every room had a crazy colour scheme or a stunning wall of art. It was like Lawrence Llewellyn Bowen had been given free reign to build a cathedral.

So colourful!

Heading to Moscow? Read all about the best way to spend 48 hours in Moscow here!

6.) Chilly Buddhists

Exploring our first city in Russia, I was expecting a few orthodox churches, and a giant stone head of a famous Soviet leader, but who knew there was going to be a golden pagoda in the snow in Ulan-Ude!? It was definitely strange to feel my body in utter confusion trying to resolve its usual state of warmth when visiting Buddhist monasteries with the utterly bitter winter wind. Still, it was a nice view across Ulan-Ude and I taught us a little about the diversity of Russia.

Rinpoche Bagsha Datsan Buddhist temple

7.) Reliving Someone Else’s Childhood

Just around the corner from Red Square in Moscow is a very special games arcade. Machines here are relics of a gaming era gone by. Metal, very tactile games kept us thoroughly entertained for almost two hours. It was a lovely, carefree time. We had to buy more tokens because it was so nice to unwind like kids.

8.) Staying Upright in Moscow

No, not because of the vodka! Surviving a whole session in Gorky Park’s amazing ice rink without landing on my bottom was a sensation! The rink is immense, and skaters can follow long tracks, eat, drink and be merry over 800m² of ice. It makes every rink in London feel teeny tiny and I am incredibly jealous of Moscovites that we don’t have this in London.

9.) Exploring a Palace

We didn’t have much time in St Petersburg, but we made the most of what time we had by heading straight to the huge and beautiful Hermitage Museum. Spread across five buildings, this is part palace, part gallery, part history museum and wholly gorgeous.

The Small Throne Room of the Winter Palace, Moscow

10.)Smashing Our Preconceptions of Russia

Give Russia a quick google, look on BBC iPlayer, or log into Facebook, and the image of Russia that appears is one of a scary state, ruled by a hard-face, hard-abbed semi-dictator. Human rights are sliding into reverse and the background of grey concrete is ever present. But boy, was it great to replace those images with great memories of lovely people, ready to help and eager to chat. We saw snow-covered, brightly-coloured wooden buildings and stunning natural scenery. I am going to try and hold these with me next time I see all that bad news coming out of the country.

The Bad – Our Ten Trans-Siberian Reflections Low Points

Messing up during our travels usually make the best stories. There were only a couple of serious fails during this trip, and then there were the times things just weren’t going our way:

1.) The Harbin Trans-Siberian Epic Fail

The day we missed the train was almost a total bust. If it wasn’t for the wonders of the snow festival on Sun Island, I would have had a mini meltdown (snow pun intended). Luckily, exploring the amazing snow sculptures left me feeling so elated that I had just enough joy to get me through that weird and horrible mistake.

To cut a long story short, we somehow sat at Harbin station and never actually caught our train to Russia. To make a short story long, read all about our epic Trans-Siberian fail in the blog post all about that frustrating day here.

2.) Guidebook Fails

As much as I love my guidebooks, they are only ever as up to date as the last time the writer visited that destination. That could be up to three years before the book was actually published. This has led to plenty of long, pointless searches for places that are shut, gone, closed or changed.

Trekking around the streets of Harbin, after a long day in the cold, my tummy was growling and my legs were freezing. We got to the right area of town and began looking for the spot recommended by LP. As we searched fruitlessly, the potent stink of tripe wafted across the street. It permeated everywhere and we just couldn’t seem to escape it. There are many unpleasant smells to encounter around the world but tripe is one that poor Mr Fluskey just can’t abide.

We finally discovered the restaurant closed and dark, clearly long shut, and this disappointment, my freezing feet and Mr Fluskey’s offended nasal passages left the whole evening with a thoroughly unpleasant aftertaste.

3.) Temperature Control

We just had one proper argument during the trip, and Mr Fluskey didn’t even realise that it was one. During our sightseeing day in Ulan-Ude, with temperatures down at -19°C, my legs began to hurt n a new way. The muscles ached, and the skin felt completely red raw as I walked. I was desperate to get back to the hotel to warm up, but he wanted to see one last thing (a tank across the other side of a huge road). I started shouting at Mr Fluskey in the street and I was close to tears.

We went to see the tank and it was NOT worth it.

When we got back to the room, I peeled off my base layer tights, leggings and jeans, as well as several pairs of socks. My thighs were bright pink and very cold to the touch. We both began wondering how close to hypothermia I was when my thighs would not return to their normal colour for hours. We went up to the rooftop bar, and despite being up there in a new pair of trousers, and with a blanket over my legs, they stayed cold. It was only when I had a shower and finally got into my pyjamas and dressing gown, that they warmed up and returned to their normal pale colour.

4.) Temperature Control, the Other Way

This one was a little less dangerous but…

I have always said that I’d rather be too hot, than too cold. I still stick by that, but travelling from Perm to Moscow by train, we were starting to melt. The train was really hot, at 24°C. Normally that wouldn’t be bad but we were both forced to wear our thermal base layers they were the smallest clothes we had. Stupidly, we hadn’t packed anything for the possibility of warmth. Plus, our bodies had become so used to temperatures well below 0°C that I just think they had forgotten how to cope!

5.) Google Maps Fails

Isn’t it interesting how we all rely so heavily on Google Maps these days? I am definitely guilty of this and it got us a little lost on two main occasions during this trip:
- When heading to get our train from Moscow to St Petersburg, we went to the wrong station. Horrible memories of the epic fail in China rushed through me and I felt genuinely nauseous. It was my phone that had maps so it was my fault…or so I thought. Luckily, the right station was just across the road and we managed to catch the train. Crisis averted!
- It was a little heartbreaking discovering that our Irkutsk hostel was in the wrong place on Google Maps After a good fifteen minutes of searching in snow that in some place came above our boots, we then ended up walking in the cold for another hour trying to find it. A very nice man stopped to try and help but he was as clueless as us and in the end, I was left feeling even colder and more despondent.
6.) Where’s a Peg When You Need One

That moment of dread when we realised our cabin companion in the train, was in dire need of a wash. Oh, how we prayed that he wasn’t staying on in our cabin for the entire 56 hour journey! We couldn’t believe our luck when he got up just two hours later

7.) Getting Chilled to the Bone

It’s funny, being out and about in below zero temperatures seems almost bearable…until you decided that you have had enough that is. Maybe it’s just me, but it’s like a switch flips internally and the cold is just unbearable all of a sudden. Every second after that point is unbearable.

In Harbin, China, there is a strange lack of taxis. Demand outstrips supply considerably, and so it is not uncommon to find yourself sharing with other people. This also means, that even when taxis do come past they can be full, or deny you travel because they’re going in another direction. Imagine my dismay when I realised we had missed the last bus back to our hostel, and the only way to get back was by taxi. After being out and about all day my switch had flipped and I needed warm. We could not get a taxi for love nor money. It took a full 20 minutes to find a ride. I couldn’t help but take every rejection personally.

8.) Yet More Terrible Timing

I thoroughly enjoyed our trip out to Moscow’s Ostankino TV tower, however, getting back to central Moscow turned into a bit of a farce. Our train was delayed, then our train didn’t come. We were stuck at that station for a surprisingly long time before a train finally came. We knew we were cutting it fine as it was, but with the delays we got to Red Square long after the mausoleum had shut. I guess it’s an excuse to go back one day but I was so looking forward to seeing that waxy-faced Lenin.

9.) Technology Fails

And we all love technology, as long as it’s working. During our Trans-Siberian travels we had two major technology fails.:
- I took the most epic jacket on this trip. This bad boy was heated and it pretty much kept me alive in North China. Sadly, when i got to Russia, the plug adapter didn’t blend together so well, and the thing wouldn’t charge. After that, it was just a regular down jacket.
- As you can see from this photo, I smashed my phone. It fell from my hand onto the see through floor of the TV tower on Moscow. Thank goodness it was only in the last couple of days.
10.) The End, Running Out of Trains

If we had it our way, we would have had another week to travel. With that extra time, we could have carried on right across Europe. It was sad to realise that we wouldn’t quite make it all the way home from Asia by train. I guess with that whole “missing our train in China” thing, we wouldn’t have really achieved it anyway, but it still would been pretty cool.

The Yummy – Our Ten Food and Drink Trans-Siberian Reflections

The Trans-Siberian is not, for most people, a culinary adventure. We settled down to plenty of dried rice and noodles meals. However, we did have a few standout moments.:

1.) Peking Duck

What do you do with 8 hours in Beijing? Well obviously, you plan in a little sleep but mostly, you go for some world-class Peking duck at Da Dong. These guys take their duck very seriously. Perfectly crisp skin, tender meat and ALL the trimmings. Peking perfection.

2.) Dumpling Delights

We all know I love (and am probably quite addicted to) dumplings. Anything steamed in a little dough wrapper will make me smile. I have several meals of dumplings during this trip, but Mr Yang’s in Shanghai took the trophy. The dumpling plate at just 27RMB (£3.00) were half steamed, half friend and ridiculously tasty. They squirted boiling porky lava across the table as we chomped into them with gusto. I am awfully tempted to return on my next swing through Shanghai. That’s three weeks and counting.

3.) Freezing Al Fresco

Trying traditional sage tea and munching on slightly frozen ham in the middle of the snowy forest was a weird bonding experience with our dog-sled drivers. If you suggested that I sit in the snow and have a picnic, I’d have stuck up some sort of digit but the hot tea, and little meat pelmeni dumplings made it almost warm enough. Let’s face it, put food in front of me, and I can make it through anything.

4.) An Unexpected Risotto

Perm is a small university town at the foot of the Ural mountains. I wasn’t expecting to find anything amazing there but we found a wicked hipster-cafe for lunch. I ordered spectacularly good butternut squash risotto topped with incredibly tender venison on top. After so many meals of meat and potatoes, it was a beautiful difference. Mr Fluskey got a burger in a charcoal bun. It looked terrifying but apparently it was rather good.

5.) A Hot Milkshake…Type…Thing

Did I mention that Harbin was cold…oh, only twice? Well, it was. It was FREEEEEEZING. Out of sheer desperation, we ducked into the beer lounge at the festival. Every other indoor space was packed, but it was blissfully empty and wonderfully warm in there. Best of all, they had more than just beer. We found these weird hot milk drinks. Just add boiling water and you’ve got what was just like a warm Nesquik. It was completely restorative and gave our insides just enough of a heat boost to get us home without weeping.

6.) A Prawn Bar….an Actual Prawn Bar!

Moscow’s hipster haven, Danilovsky Market, was a revelation. Don’t get me wrong, I loved the food across Russia but it was all quite heavy and so, to spot something a little lighter was quite exciting. I ordered prawns and squid and treasured every salty, citrus-sprinkled bite.

I did have to get a slice of pie afterwards…but that’s not the point.

7.) Omul Fish

In most guides about the Trans-Siberian, they tell of babushkas on the platforms, selling smoked omul fish. However, it seems like the Siberian winter keep these lovely ladies from the trains, and we didn’t see anyone. Apparently Lake Baikal is teaming with these tasty guys and so I was quite sad not to try them.

Luckily, we found omul on the menu of Kochevnik, a Mongolian restaurant in Irkutsk. It was a lovely, meaty white fish that felt like a fresher contrast to the heavily smoked fish beside it.

8.) Fish Eggs Make me Happy

In any sushi restaurant my first move is to scour the menu for those little balls of joy. Bright orange flying fish roe, big shiny salmon roe, the more eggs the better! Imagine the sheer joy I had slowly savouring a big spoon full of caviar in Moscow’s most luxurious shopping centre. Well, half a spoon. Sadly, I had to share with Mr Fluskey…and we could only afford the cheapest caviar but at £30 a gram (with a shot of Beluga Vodka) it was still excellent quality.

9.) Birthday Bubbles

Working our way through a bottle of Champansky on my birthday was the best way to celebrate. Timing meant that I had to be onboard all day, but the semi-sweet bubbles slipped down like a dream and we chatted with mild tipsyness very merrily.

10.) A Tasting Menu

Our very last night of the trip, we decided to do something a little special. Our buddy Anna recommended a restaurant called Birch, and on arrival, we decided to go the whole hog and try their 10 course tasting menu. In London, this would have cost at least twice as much so you know, in for a penny, in for £50.

I originally planned to blog about the experience and tried making notes. For the first two courses they were detailed intelligent and sounded vaguely like a Masterchef critique, but as the wine pairing and courses continued the notes started to slip. By the end, incoherent ramblings that mentioned the word dessert were all that was left. It was tons of fun, exciting, surprising, and delicious, the perfect end to our trans-siberian reflections.

Final Trans-Siberian Reflections

It’s been tricky to get everything down on paper (screen?) but to see absolutely everything we we have written about our Trans-Siberian adventure, you can check out all of our blog posts here or why not pop over to our Instagram and look through our Trans-Siberian story highlights!?

Looking back, there were a few things we didn’t do like:
- Get drunk with randoms on vodka.
- Catch the train in China and see them change the wheels at the Russian China border.
- Buy a fur hat.
- Play with Russian dolls.
- Miss home.
- Lose any digits to frostbite. (Thanks heated gloves).
- Meet any other travellers on the train from other European countries.
- Stay awake through more than 10 minutes of our Siberia history audiobook.
- Eat borscht.
However, despite, and perhaps due to some of these missing things, this was the most amazing trip. Traversing from Shanghai to St Petersburg along the Trans-Manchurian by train (…mostly…) felt pretty epic. I know that in the travel blogosphere, everyone is tempted to make everything look perfect, but hopefully, this collection of blog posts has helped share all sides of this trip: the good, the bad and the yummy!

Rosie xx
17/01/2020
Trans-Siberian Travels – Moscow to St Petersburg by Train

Well, we couldn’t come all this way and not see St Petersburg could we!? The very last and final train journey of our Trans-Siberian travels was travelling from Moscow to St Petersburg by train. There are two options for this route, the sleeper or the fancy new high-speed link. As nice as taking a last sleeper would have been, it would have completely rinsed our time in St Petersburg, so we opted for the modern speedy train.
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16/01/2020
Trans-Siberian Travels – Perm to Moscow by Train

Travelling from Perm to Moscow by train was technically the last leg of the official Trans-Siberian route. This was our final sleeper train, our final packet of dried noodles for dinner and it made total sense to end this huge adventure standing in the middle of Moscow’s Red Square….but we kept going after this. Before we get to that very last train, there are still 24 hours of slow train travel to enjoy.

Mmmm, slushy, dirty city snow.
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13/01/2020
Top Tips for the Trans-Siberian – Plan a Trip on the Trans Siberian Railway

The Trans-Siberian Railway is without doubt, the world’s most famous train-based travel adventure on the planet. Through our Trans-Siberian Travels we learnt so much about how to plan a trip on the Trans-Siberian, but also how to pack and organise the practicalities too. Let us guide you through how to plan a trip on the Trans-Siberian Railway including our top tips for the Trans-Siberian.
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23/12/2019
Trans-Siberian Travels – Irkutsk to Perm by Train for My 32nd Birthday

There are some people who take the entirety of the Trans-Siberian from end to end in one week long adventure. Personally, I would suffer far too much from fear of missing out if I bypassed too many towns without stopping. Instead, we took our journey in steps and this leg was the longest one. Travelling from Irkutsk to Perm by train took two nights and one whole birthday. Come and see what we did to occupy ourselves on a train for 58 hours from Irkutsk to Perm by train for my 32nd birthday.

The most hilarious Provodnitsy we met during our travels. She was totally delighted at our stupidity.
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21/12/2019